nord
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Location
- Southern Tier NY
- TDI
- All turned back to VW. Now a 2017 Hundai Tuscon. Not a single squalk in 10k miles.
After a new heater core on my '14 SE I decided I better check our '13 SEL. Sure enough... Orange instead of pink. Based on some of the lessons learned while working on my SE and my distaste (literally) for coolant because it seems to migrate everywhere, I decided to experiment. I wanted to work totally from the top side of the car and not disturb any of the main plumbing.
So... Facing the car and just to the right of the air intake is the main return hose to the radiator. Just above that and on the hose neck is a small rubber hose that goes directly to the coolant reservoir. Release the clamp and prepare to pull the small hose.
I found that our shop vac hose is almost an exact fit for the reservoir. Remove the cap, place the hose, and fire up the vacuum. Remove the small hose from the neck and plug it by holding your finger over it. The result will be a turbulent backwash within the reservoir. Sediment and contaminated coolant will be pulled out of the system.
Once the coolant had been removed, then it's distilled water time. Just add it back through the reservoir until liquid dribbles out the open hose fitting. Put the small hose back in place and run the engine a bit or take the car for a short drive. (Make sure the engine comes up to operating temp.) Repeat the vacuum operation. After about three repeats you'll see pure water coming out the hose fitting with no hint of coolant. (Don't forget to clean the residue out of the reservoir. I'll almost guarantee the internal reservoir will be coated with a skim of orange.)
Vacuum the system down one more time. Very little water will be left in the system once done. Add about a quart of straight new coolant followed by a 50/50 mix to the reservoir. The heavy 100% coolant will displace the remaining water forcing it out the hose fitting. It's easy to monitor. Though it will seem to take a rather long time the pure water will rather suddenly turn pink. Let it run for just a bit and bring the reservoir to full. Make sure the small hose is back in place and run the car up to operating temp. Very little "burping" (if any) will be needed.
Check the specific gravity of the coolant for temp protection. In my case the mix was perfect. 400 miles on the car immediately after the change yesterday. Coolant is bright pink and no need to add even though I did have a reserve with me.
Oh... No HOAT on my skin or clothing. No "funny" taste in my mouth and a shop vac about half full of used coolant. This I dumped into a pail for recycling. No "chunks", just worn out coolant with an orange cast.
Once I saw what the vacuum was doing to coolant in the reservoir I was pretty much sold on the effectiveness of the procedure. It's sort of amazing to watch. I'd suggest having about five gallons of distilled water on hand and you'll be able to see when things really begin to clean up. Tools needed? A vac and a pair of pliers. It's that easy.
Note: What you'll observe within the reservoir is almost violent as the vac does its work. Don't be alarmed. Do, though, be aware that the inside of the reservoir will become contaminated by an orange coating and need to be cleaned.
Hope this will help someone here in the future. Do it BEFORE you need a new heater core.
So... Facing the car and just to the right of the air intake is the main return hose to the radiator. Just above that and on the hose neck is a small rubber hose that goes directly to the coolant reservoir. Release the clamp and prepare to pull the small hose.
I found that our shop vac hose is almost an exact fit for the reservoir. Remove the cap, place the hose, and fire up the vacuum. Remove the small hose from the neck and plug it by holding your finger over it. The result will be a turbulent backwash within the reservoir. Sediment and contaminated coolant will be pulled out of the system.
Once the coolant had been removed, then it's distilled water time. Just add it back through the reservoir until liquid dribbles out the open hose fitting. Put the small hose back in place and run the engine a bit or take the car for a short drive. (Make sure the engine comes up to operating temp.) Repeat the vacuum operation. After about three repeats you'll see pure water coming out the hose fitting with no hint of coolant. (Don't forget to clean the residue out of the reservoir. I'll almost guarantee the internal reservoir will be coated with a skim of orange.)
Vacuum the system down one more time. Very little water will be left in the system once done. Add about a quart of straight new coolant followed by a 50/50 mix to the reservoir. The heavy 100% coolant will displace the remaining water forcing it out the hose fitting. It's easy to monitor. Though it will seem to take a rather long time the pure water will rather suddenly turn pink. Let it run for just a bit and bring the reservoir to full. Make sure the small hose is back in place and run the car up to operating temp. Very little "burping" (if any) will be needed.
Check the specific gravity of the coolant for temp protection. In my case the mix was perfect. 400 miles on the car immediately after the change yesterday. Coolant is bright pink and no need to add even though I did have a reserve with me.
Oh... No HOAT on my skin or clothing. No "funny" taste in my mouth and a shop vac about half full of used coolant. This I dumped into a pail for recycling. No "chunks", just worn out coolant with an orange cast.
Once I saw what the vacuum was doing to coolant in the reservoir I was pretty much sold on the effectiveness of the procedure. It's sort of amazing to watch. I'd suggest having about five gallons of distilled water on hand and you'll be able to see when things really begin to clean up. Tools needed? A vac and a pair of pliers. It's that easy.
Note: What you'll observe within the reservoir is almost violent as the vac does its work. Don't be alarmed. Do, though, be aware that the inside of the reservoir will become contaminated by an orange coating and need to be cleaned.
Hope this will help someone here in the future. Do it BEFORE you need a new heater core.