Any way to know a DPF regeneration is in process?

Best way I know is when its going on it will idle at 1000rpm, when its not it will hover right at 800rpm.

Also if you have the windows down you may be able to hear the fans going too.

Best thing to do is get a gauge such as Banks IQ which will tell you your Cat temp and EGTs and during a regen the Cat temps will hit 800+F and EGTs will hover around 1200F and spike to 1600F a few times.

Bought mine used from a Honda dealer. No ****..... Drove it home after i bought it. Cold outside. Like 15F. Get in driveway and shut it off...cooling fans running. Ok I'm worried now. Get on TDI club and find this thread.,....thank God! Lol

This probably sounds foolish but, how do I know if my TDI has a dpf? My 2013 Canadian TDI Golf wagon with DSG doesn't seem to have the dpf light in the cluster, I have never noticed any of the things mentioned in this thread, and have never smelled anything from my exhaust system. Just wondering.

In North America 2009 TDIs were the first to have DPF's and is on all years since then.

There is a DPF light (looks kind of like a box with dots inside) but it only illuminates if there is a problem... not during any normal operation.

This probably has already been said: you don't HAVE to know when a regeneration of the DPF is going on. It will work just fine without your participation, except under very special circumstances; and then the car will let you know.

acb13sportwagen said:

This probably sounds foolish but, how do I know if my TDI has a dpf? My 2013 Canadian TDI Golf wagon with DSG doesn't seem to have the dpf light in the cluster, I have never noticed any of the things mentioned in this thread, and have never smelled anything from my exhaust system. Just wondering.

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You can look under your hood.



the parts on the right in the photo are the DPF.

in your car, on the passenger side, under the hood, between the place the oil fill cap is, and the windshield, down a bit from the top, under some stuff, there is a part that is the dpf.

Check your tail pipe. Is it sooty? Yes - then you don't have DPF. Clean - you have DPF.

I have installed a polar FIS unit purchased through Kerma TDI. This unit will display a number 1-7 of the required regen needed if selected in the menu. When the number is at 7 the TDI will regenerate. As the regeneration is in progress the number decreases from 7 to 1 when complete. Regeneration occurs every 500 - 750 miles and last for 3-5 minutes depending on the engine speed. Highway is the shortest time, start stop city lasts longer. This is my observation on my 2014 TDI sportwagon 6 speed.

PaulGiz said:

Regen is triggered by hours and ash load sensor, so the interval is somewhat unpredictable.
Sent from my Sensation using Tapatalk

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Any idea what the ash load # is?

JAV37 said:

I have installed a polar FIS unit purchased through Kerma TDI. This unit will display a number 1-7 of the required regen needed if selected in the menu. When the number is at 7 the TDI will regenerate. As the regeneration is in progress the number decreases from 7 to 1 when complete. Regeneration occurs every 500 - 750 miles and last for 3-5 minutes depending on the engine speed. Highway is the shortest time, start stop city lasts longer. This is my observation on my 2014 TDI sportwagon 6 speed.

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Great input! I just installed the Polar (money well spent). I hope you visit a Polar owner/user input post I just did. You're input will be greatly appreciated.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=505681

The last few times my car has done a regen, I've noticed a noise when letting off the throttle. I've been on the highway usually between 60 and 75mph and if I try to accelerate and put some decent throttle (Maybe 50% of the pedal) and then let off it makes this hissing noise that sounds like it's coming from the right side of the car, that I can hear pretty well if the radio and fan are turned down. It seems like some kind of turbo noise but I can only hear it when the car is in regen mode.

Is this normal? Please forgive my ignorance, this is my first TDI, and I'm still learning. I'll try to get a recording of it if I can. It's entirely possible that is totally normal, and that I've been paying attention to regens more now that I'm aware of them.

ebain21 said:

The last few times my car has done a regen, I've noticed a noise when letting off the throttle. I've been on the highway usually between 60 and 75mph and if I try to accelerate and put some decent throttle (Maybe 50% of the pedal) and then let off it makes this hissing noise that sounds like it's coming from the right side of the car, that I can hear pretty well if the radio and fan are turned down. It seems like some kind of turbo noise but I can only hear it when the car is in regen mode.

Is this normal? Please forgive my ignorance, this is my first TDI, and I'm still learning. I'll try to get a recording of it if I can. It's entirely possible that is totally normal, and that I've been paying attention to regens more now that I'm aware of them.

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Possible DPF crack/leak? When in regen my understanding is the flapperr restrics flow. The post fix DPF reportedly getsup up to *1600. Ive noticed cold area post having alot of cracked DPFs?
Should be warranted if so

It's a new DPF, only 7,000 miles on it. I would think I'd have a CEL for a pressure differential if it was cracked or leaking. Does the turbo on the CJAA have a wastegate or how does that work on these cars? I'm trying to think of where that type of air release/hissing noise would come from and only during regen.

ebain21 said:

It's a new DPF, only 7,000 miles on it. I would think I'd have a CEL for a pressure differential if it was cracked or leaking. Does the turbo on the CJAA have a wastegate or how does that work on these cars? I'm trying to think of where that type of air release/hissing noise would come from and only during regen.

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The common factor seems to be back pressure. I doubt the factory turbo pressure dumps exterrnally? Do you think its flapper related? Yet another covered part... If a code is set.

I really have no clue. No CEL/MILs, I don't have VCDS to check for DTCs. I think I'm going to go with drive more, worry less and if a code gets thrown, it will be covered under extended emisssions warranty.

I really wish there was some sort of positive indication that any of these newer diesels were doing a regen. Before I knew the cooling fan as being an indication, there were many, many times that I would arrive home from a 36 mile commute with the fan on. I too was concerned about that. But had I known it was in a regen process, I would have driven it more to let it finish. There has to be a wire somewhere that could be tapped into to illuminate an LED that would let you know a regen is in progress??

I own 2 other diesels that have a regen process and neither of them have an indication or a tell tale sign that I am aware of. I get the feeling it's just one of those things that if diesel manf. said "you must let the regen process finish once it's started", then people would avoid diesels. But it's fairly detrimental not to let it finish, especially several times in a row.

jesus_man said:

I really wish there was some sort of positive indication that any of these newer diesels were doing a regen.

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https://kermatdi.com/i-852-polar-fis-advanced-dashboard-display.html

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=505681

jesus_man said:

I really wish there was some sort of positive indication that any of these newer diesels were doing a regen....

.... But it's fairly detrimental not to let it finish, especially several times in a row.

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While I’ve heard this here before, that stopping while a regen is in process is bad, bad how? To what detriment? I’ve put more than 90k mi. on my JSW and have never worried about whether or not a regen is in process, other than basic curiosity. I’ve never let a regen influence my driving or when I’ve parked. When I changed the oil at 90k, the ash load was 78ml according to VCDS, so excessive DPF loading does not seem to be an issue. What other bad things are supposed to happen if you just drive the car without trying to actively manage the regens?

ewdysar said:

While I’ve heard this here before, that stopping while a regen is in process is bad, bad how? To what detriment? I’ve put more than 90k mi. on my JSW and have never worried about whether or not a regen is in process, other than basic curiosity. I’ve never let a regen influence my driving or when I’ve parked. When I changed the oil at 90k, the ash load was 78ml according to VCDS, so excessive DPF loading does not seem to be an issue. What other bad things are supposed to happen if you just drive the car without trying to actively manage the regens?

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I think the general idea is that it's bad to just shut off the engine and park it when the engine is producing Exhaust temps so high. It's the same reason why people recommend you idle for a minute before turning it off to let the turbo cool down. It can be bad for seals, lubrication of the turbo, etc. I'm not sure if any of these worries are founded, and people seem to be in the two camps: 1. I'm not gonna let my car tell me how to live my life and 2. I'm going to let it do its thing and hopefully minimize risk of that much heat sitting in the engine bay after shutting down.

There is a reason why the fans stay on for a while, but I'm not sure if anyone really knows if that's enough to mitigate damage to the turbo in the long run.

No, you have to look at the function of the DPF. It is a filter...that requires periodic cleaning. And when that cleaning doesn't get completed, then build-up begins. Enough build-up causes issues.

Jellow - I read thru the wealth of info you provided and while I didn't realize there was such an animal as this Polar FIS, surely there is something far cheaper to notify me of a regen event in progress. If I knew more about how the process was performed, perhaps a quick look at a wiring diagram might reveal where certain circuits are powered during the regen process and tapping into one of those wires to power a simple LED mounted to the dash would be all the signal I need.

Another way to think of it is...$275 goes a long way towards getting rid of the filter all together.

ebain21 said:

I think the general idea is that it's bad to just shut off the engine and park it when the engine is producing Exhaust temps so high. It's the same reason why people recommend you idle for a minute before turning it off to let the turbo cool down. It can be bad for seals, lubrication of the turbo, etc. I'm not sure if any of these worries are founded, and people seem to be in the two camps: 1. I'm not gonna let my car tell me how to live my life and 2. I'm going to let it do its thing and hopefully minimize risk of that much heat sitting in the engine bay after shutting down.

There is a reason why the fans stay on for a while, but I'm not sure if anyone really knows if that's enough to mitigate damage to the turbo in the long run.

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Its proven a huge turbo seal life extender to idle after excessive EGTs. Will a the TDI w/ a hot DPF benefit with an idle? Does the DPF in regen @ idle condition heat or cool? Its possible idling could be harder on components? That why Im in-between the 2 camps you mentioned. I like input. Being "what ever will be will be" generally kills vehicles. Ive had several vehicles that ran like day one @ 250k, it wasn't by accident.

The cold area cracked DPFs suggest they were way too hot at shut off? The nation wide DPF shortage also speaks volumes on plugged systems.

jesus_man said:

No, you have to look at the function of the DPF. It is a filter...that requires periodic cleaning. And when that cleaning doesn't get completed, then build-up begins. Enough build-up causes issues.

Jellow - I read thru the wealth of info you provided and while I didn't realize there was such an animal as this Polar FIS, surely there is something far cheaper to notify me of a regen event in progress. If I knew more about how the process was performed, perhaps a quick look at a wiring diagram might reveal where certain circuits are powered during the regen process and tapping into one of those wires to power a simple LED mounted to the dash would be all the signal I need.

Another way to think of it is...$275 goes a long way towards getting rid of the filter all together.

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DPF function stated well. Although I went from of my 04 non DPF TDI to the DPF nonsense I don't regret it, just a glitch. Great all around vehicle.

That's a good idea to figure out a basic on/off DPF light, something that VW could have easily incorporated IMO. Keep the forum up on your progress if you pursue the light thing.

There is another option to monitor a few things. Its called a p3 gauge. Its a gauge that goes in the dash vent. Calimustang had one up for sale.

I am at risk of being titled anal about this but unfortunately I live in Comi-fornia and don't have the option to "improve" this post-dieselgate TDI with a emission improving delete.

Funny... my wife has a 13' and my daughter has a 15'..both passats..anyway they NEVER worry about the regens...My wife is near deaf (hearing fans?..LOL)..well even if she wasn't she would not care about "protecting" the dpf.. they both rack up the mile..both over 120,000 miles..still have original dpf's !!.. NOW mine a 2011' jetta has only 70,000 miles and I always let it finish the regen. (monitor scan gauge II). and have had 3..yes 3 dpf's replaced since fix at 46,000 miles... go figure!! Maybe the Urea helps theirs??

jesus_man said:

No, you have to look at the function of the DPF. It is a filter...that requires periodic cleaning. And when that cleaning doesn't get completed, then build-up begins. Enough build-up causes issues....

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Certainly a reasonable sounding theory, but not appear to be happening with my car. With 90k+ miles (30k+ since the “fix”) my original DPF is showing only 78ml ash load via VCDS. At this rate, this original DPF should not be “full” before 200k miles. Are you saying that if I let the regen status influence my driving and parking habits, I should expect the DPF to last significantly longer? Does continuing to drive after reaching my destination to compete a regen cycle or letting my car idle to finish a cycle mean that my DPF shouldn’t reach max ash load for 250k-300k miles?

While I agree that the DPF requires regular cleaning (regeneration) to remove excess soot and leaving only ash, it appears that the only downside to interrupting a regen cycle (leaving some unburned soot) is that the next regen cycle may come sooner. But I don’t believe that even that happens, because my car completes any interrupted regen cycle the next time I drive the car.

So for me, it appears my car is managing the DPF well without my help. Given my personal experience, I would have to suggest that whatever is causing some DPFs to fill or fail at low mileage is probably something other than interrupted regen cycles.

For me, it's mostly about the heat. I like to let the regens complete before parking my car. It also matters about my schedule. If I know I'll be making numerous short trips in the next day or two, e.g., on the weekends instead of weekday long commutes, it can be irritating to have regens restart and stop on multiple short trips. My car tends to run a bit oddly during regens and it also repeatedly gets things screaming hot.

I use the P3Cars vent gauge. It's true it's not inexpensive, but I think it looks great in the car and functions well. It also lets you see codes and clear codes on the fly if you don't have your VCDS at the ready.

My P3Cars vent gauge. It's reading coolant temperature in the photo.

on Flickr

ewdysar said:

Certainly a reasonable sounding theory, but not appear to be happening with my car.

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I'll agree that yours seems to be an anomaly. But I believe that certain conditions have to be met in order for a regen to start or resume. So my fear for myself is that having my fan on after a 36 mile commute very often means that those conditions were just met within the last few miles, so when the regen resumes, will it again be at mile 35 of my commute and be interrupted several times before it completes?

I don't know all the workings of the system, so I too am learning, but I have to assume just like an uncleaned BBQ grill, stuff builds up and gets harder to clean off if not done properly periodically.

ewdysar said:

Certainly a reasonable sounding theory, but not appear to be happening with my car. With 90k+ miles (30k+ since the “fix”) my original DPF is showing only 78ml ash load via VCDS. At this rate, this original DPF should not be “full” before 200k miles. Are you saying that if I let the regen status influence my driving and parking habits, I should expect the DPF to last significantly longer? Does continuing to drive after reaching my destination to compete a regen cycle or letting my car idle to finish a cycle mean that my DPF shouldn’t reach max soot load for 250k-300k miles?

While I agree that the DPF requires regular cleaning (regeneration) to remove excess soot and leaving only ash, it appears that the only downside to interrupting a regen cycle (leaving some unburned soot) is that the next regen cycle may come sooner. But I don’t believe that even that happens, because my car completes any interrupted regen cycle the next time I drive the car.

So for me, it appears my car is managing the DPF well without my help. Given my personal experience, I would have to suggest that whatever is causing some DPFs to fill or fail at low mileage is probably something other than interrupted regen cycles.

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One should consider the health of the turbo which is extremely hot during the regens.



My advice is to drive until the regen is complete and the turbo/exhaust system is cool.

jesus_man said:

I'll agree that yours seems to be an anomaly. But I believe that certain conditions have to be met in order for a regen to start or resume. So my fear for myself is that having my fan on after a 36 mile commute very often means that those conditions were just met within the last few miles, so when the regen resumes, will it again be at mile 35 of my commute and be interrupted several times before it completes?
I don't know all the workings of the system, so I too am learning, but I have to assume just like an uncleaned BBQ grill, stuff builds up and gets harder to clean off if not done properly periodically.

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First, regens resume when the coolant temp hits about 150F (typically within a few minutes of the car restart) so I doubt that a single regen would span two 35 mile commutes. Have you ever observed that happening? Or is this just a “fear”?

The point of my posts was to find any empirical evidence to support the theory that has been put forward as truth in multiple threads here, that actively managing your regens will help make your DPF last longer. You stated that you believe that my observations about my car are an anomaly, but I haven’t seen anyone post that their DPF is measuring cleaner or went more miles before full due to their diligence in managing their regens.

The basic scientific process is to come up with a theory, then make real world observations to see if that theory is supported or not. I encourage anyone that has observed their mileage to ash load ratio and can state whether they have actively managed their regens to add more data to this thread.

So based on limited observation, I will go farther in suggesting that how fast one’s DPF fills with ash has no direct relationship to whether or not one actively manages their regens.

roadlust said:

One should consider the health of the turbo which is extremely hot during the regens.

My advice is to drive until the regen is complete and the turbo/exhaust system is cool.

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I appreciate your opinion on this and it sounds right to me. But I have not seen anyone state that one should actively manage their regens to increase the lifespan of their turbo, until now.

The obvious next question is to see if managing one’s regens does actually extend the life of one’s turbo. To date, I have not heard that early turbo failure is a particular problem for the Gen6 TDIs compared to other TDIs. Given that, I don’t know if we can state that any early turbo failures with our cars can be attributed, at least partially, to interrupted regens. But maybe so...

What I’m trying to figure out is whether or not there is any value returned for the investment of personal time and fuel in actively managing one’s regens.

That said, I have a P3 vent gauge, and I will often let the car idle before shutting the engine off until the EGT on the display is below 400F or 30 seconds, whichever come first. That habit is leftover from a turbo Mitsu that I owned in the 90’s.

ewdysar said:

First, regens resume when the coolant temp hits about 150F (typically within a few minutes of the car restart) so I doubt that a single regen would span two 35 mile commutes. Have you ever observed that happening? Or is this just a “fear”?.

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Really, my car seems to run no different when performing a regen and I am usually pretty sensitive to subtle changes. It was just that my observation was that the cooling fans were on quite a lot upon returning home from my commute. Once I learned that was likely a result of a regen, I wondered why my car chose to perform a regen then, when, as you say, it would have had 30+ other miles to perform it.

jesus_man said:

Really, my car seems to run no different when performing a regen and I am usually pretty sensitive to subtle changes. It was just that my observation was that the cooling fans were on quite a lot upon returning home from my commute. Once I learned that was likely a result of a regen, I wondered why my car chose to perform a regen then, when, as you say, it would have had 30+ other miles to perform it.

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Well, your car has no idea how much longer that you plan on driving at any given moment, 30 minutes more or just 30 seconds. It only knows the current status of the DPF. While the car is running at or near operating temperature, if it senses that there is enough soot to justify a regen cycle, it starts the process, whether you are just pulling away from your house, or just getting home. If that regen cycle does not complete before you turn off the car, then it knows that it needs to complete the cycle the next time that the car gets near operating temperature.