The Evry mod how to.

DirtyDzl

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Midwest
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Looking to buy.
I can't believe there isn't more clear information on this, i spent about an hour searching and ended up doing it the logical way to me (knowing basic electronics).

The mod really is simple, hopefully this clears up any confusion from the many other threads because i was indeed confused with them until i thought for a while on it.

This shows exactly where the injector harness is and what part of the wires to splice (though either side of the plug will work, this side is more accessible). Wires 2 and 3 are connected with a 1k (what i used) resistor. Wire 2 is the first pin on one side of the harness, pin 3 is second from the other side. The wires are labeled on the harness (which is awesome).




Here's the wiring, i personally cut the wires, put the resistor wiring in there and twisted it all back together and electrical taped it up. Basically you take the wires apart, splice them back together, but add the resistor's wiring.



For "tuning". You turn the resistance down until the motor starts idling rough, then turn it back up until it smooths. I played it safe and went to smooth and turned a bit more.

And the disclaimer part, you **** up your car, not me, i'm not liable for damages. :D

Any questions will be happily answered.
 

DirtyDzl

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thunderwolf said:
What engine is this for and what does it do?
I'm not sure the engine code, works on the 1.9 TDIs from 1998 to 2005 (correct me if i'm wrong, i'm very new to diesels). It tricks the computer in to dumping more fuel in (which on a diesel is like pushing the pedal through the floor). Results surprised the hell out of me...but i also have bigger injectors.
 

twentyeight

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Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Location
Phoenix, AZ
TDI
1Z & ALH
As I understand it:

There's a sensor that senses the position of the quantity adjuster. Think of it as a syringe pumping up and down. If you extrapolate for time, you get a (more or less) sine wave.

The computer reads this wave to check itself on how much fuel to inject. What you are doing with this mod is tying the signal low through a resistor. The lower the resistor, the more of the voltage (and thus amplitude) of the wave 'leaks' out.

A shorter wave is interpreted by the computer as a need to move that syringe plunger further, resulting in more fuel.

Honestly, it's a lot more fun with a switch and potentiometer in cockpit somewhere :). It's telling to witness the change when the switch is flipped.
Watch out for the smoke, though. Mine absolutely dumps the stuff.
 

DirtyDzl

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twentyeight said:
As I understand it:

There's a sensor that senses the position of the quantity adjuster. Think of it as a syringe pumping up and down. If you extrapolate for time, you get a (more or less) sine wave.

The computer reads this wave to check itself on how much fuel to inject. What you are doing with this mod is tying the signal low through a resistor. The lower the resistor, the more of the voltage (and thus amplitude) of the wave 'leaks' out.

A shorter wave is interpreted by the computer as a need to move that syringe plunger further, resulting in more fuel.

Honestly, it's a lot more fun with a switch and potentiometer in cockpit somewhere :). It's telling to witness the change when the switch is flipped.
Watch out for the smoke, though. Mine absolutely dumps the stuff.
Yeah, i put mine on a switch, thing smoked everywhere and i got horrible fuel mileage. It's fun to flip the switch on while you're flooring it to feel the actual gains. :p
 

DirtyDzl

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Location
Midwest
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Looking to buy.
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traxterXT

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Joined
Mar 30, 2004
Location
Ottawa On, Canada
TDI
jetta 2005
well i would not say ineffective but you need more air. my GF car i run the evrymod over a 500ohm and a 1k pot. i got R520 injectors, a KKK K14 running 22PSI and 4GPH meth injection. I'm still tweaking the car but i got no chip. i will run the dyno in few weeks
 

DirtyDzl

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Midwest
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puffsmokeonya said:
if you do this to a switch just for some smoke action do you need the resistor? 99 bug TDI 5spd
Yes, the resistor is required. I don't know what would happen without it, but i'm sure it wouldn't be good.
 

Pugsley

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Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Location
Valparaiso IN
TDI
2003 Beetle
I think the reason nobody fully explains this is because if you can't figure out how to do it with the limited info you probably won't understand the risk your taking when using this mod.

I did this mod awhile back, only use it when I see a big pickup or some asshat is riding my bumper.
 

scidav87

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Joined
Jul 16, 2009
Location
Kansas City
TDI
2001 Jetta 5-speed 1980 Rabbit 1.5L
HP bump, i notieced a VERY large difference with my PP764's with no tune...Got the car tuned and the next time i used this mod...the turbo blew in half and shapnel went everywhere, lol. The acutator on the turbo got stuck and built too high of boost. Now i'm running the 17/22 turbo and making 26 PSI at WOT.
 

Lug_Nut

TDIClub Enthusiast, Pre-Forum Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 20, 1998
Location
Sterling, Massachusetts. USA
TDI
idi: 1988 Bolens DGT1700H, the other oil burner: 1967 Saab Sonett II two stroke
For the $1.50 the resistors and some splices cost this is the biggest bang for the buck. On the 1Z with original BK ecu this mod provides 80% of the increase of a $500 chip tune.
Dyno tested on my first B4: Evry gained 7 hp over stock, Brand "U" chip gained 9 hp over stock. I sold my chip and bought a baggie of 1K ohm resistors. No smoke at that level either.
 

DirtyDzl

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Lug_Nut said:
For the $1.50 the resistors and some splices cost this is the biggest bang for the buck. On the 1Z with original BK ecu this mod provides 80% of the increase of a $500 chip tune.
Dyno tested on my first B4: Evry gained 7 hp over stock, Brand "U" chip gained 9 hp over stock. I sold my chip and bought a baggie of 1K ohm resistors. No smoke at that level either.
I've cranked it to where the car bucks at idle and along with my injectors, it pulls hard. I'd give it a 60+hp gain over stock, but smokes an extreme amount.

I've stopped using this mod though, it's fun, but i know i'll pop the motor if i keep playing. I'm saving up for a big turbo, chip and headstuds. Feeling it pull like that on a stock turbo with stupid little mods motivates me to dig in to it.
 

Pugsley

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Apr 7, 2008
Location
Valparaiso IN
TDI
2003 Beetle
You have to treat this mod like nitrous. It's not something you want to use all the time if its cranked up. I know on my car I cant use it in 3rd or higher because it slips the clutch.

Yes it does make allot of power for the $... but you get what you pay for. Huge turbo spikes, huge EGT's and a pretty good chance of breaking something. There is a reason a proper tune cost money, it can make the HP with a low risk to breaking stuff because it keeps everything in balance.

Now im not saying don't do the evry mod, but just remember this is not a basic mod. It is an advanced mod. It tricks the ECU into thinking its doing the right thing when in reality its not. You stand a good chance of blowing up the turbo or damaging the injector pump. Now if you understand how the engine normally works you should understand what this mod does and what risk your taking. If you don't know how the engine normally works and are doing this mod just to get more power and cant figure out how to do the mod with the limited info then you probably wont understand how this can damage stuff.

I don't want to sound like an ass, but I have read way to many post about people modding stuff (not only cars) and not fully understanding whats going on and stuff breaking and then they get all mad at the person who told them how to do it.
 

Lug_Nut

TDIClub Enthusiast, Pre-Forum Veteran Member
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Jun 20, 1998
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Sterling, Massachusetts. USA
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idi: 1988 Bolens DGT1700H, the other oil burner: 1967 Saab Sonett II two stroke
That's why I stopped at 1K shunt and didn't progress to the 500~600 ohm range shunt. The reduction in ECU feedback is logrithmic with the linear reduction in the resistor ohms. The 1k gave a reasonable increase in power, yet didn't increase smoke, make for lumpy idle and significantly change driveability. Indeed it has less of these "side effects" than the chip tune I had.
If you are thinking of a stage 1 tune, the 1k resistor mod should be considered as a low-buck alternative.
If you've got the hankering for more power than a stage 1 tune can provide, get the stage 2 chip rather than using a lower resistance Evry mod.
 

traxterXT

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2004
Location
Ottawa On, Canada
TDI
jetta 2005
Thats why i recommend a 1k pot with a 500ohm in serial to the pot. this will max out at 500ohms which will give you smoke and power but keeping stuff under some control. but in diesel if you want to add fuel you need more air on the other side. over fueling(black smoke) will bring your EGT sky high and eventually melt something. in my mk3 setup I run the evrymod on a stock ecu but i got that N75 out of the system and control the wastegate turbo from a mechanical boost valve. I never seen any boost spike with the evrymod on. but the vnt reacts alot diferently then wastegate.
 

puffsmokeonya

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Location
harrison ar
TDI
99 bug 5 spd
its the TDI iam learning about. i want to make sure its just like the other diesels. my brother owns a performance shop for trucks. and i want to include knowledge of the TDI.
 

DirtyDzl

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Location
Midwest
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Looking to buy.
Pugsley said:
You have to treat this mod like nitrous. It's not something you want to use all the time if its cranked up. I know on my car I cant use it in 3rd or higher because it slips the clutch.

Yes it does make allot of power for the $... but you get what you pay for. Huge turbo spikes, huge EGT's and a pretty good chance of breaking something. There is a reason a proper tune cost money, it can make the HP with a low risk to breaking stuff because it keeps everything in balance.

Now im not saying don't do the evry mod, but just remember this is not a basic mod. It is an advanced mod. It tricks the ECU into thinking its doing the right thing when in reality its not. You stand a good chance of blowing up the turbo or damaging the injector pump. Now if you understand how the engine normally works you should understand what this mod does and what risk your taking. If you don't know how the engine normally works and are doing this mod just to get more power and cant figure out how to do the mod with the limited info then you probably wont understand how this can damage stuff.

I don't want to sound like an ass, but I have read way to many post about people modding stuff (not only cars) and not fully understanding whats going on and stuff breaking and then they get all mad at the person who told them how to do it.
Well said and you don't sound like an ass.
 

NB_TDi

Vendor
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Location
NB, Canada █♣█
TDI
2014 Jetta SE
Lug_Nut said:
That's why I stopped at 1K shunt and didn't progress to the 500~600 ohm range shunt. The reduction in ECU feedback is logrithmic with the linear reduction in the resistor ohms. The 1k gave a reasonable increase in power, yet didn't increase smoke, make for lumpy idle and significantly change driveability. Indeed it has less of these "side effects" than the chip tune I had.
If you are thinking of a stage 1 tune, the 1k resistor mod should be considered as a low-buck alternative.
If you've got the hankering for more power than a stage 1 tune can provide, get the stage 2 chip rather than using a lower resistance Evry mod.
Exactly what I did.



I only used a 1k at the most(least) the 1.2k was for a more average bit of power. No smoke, no problems.

But I did remove this circuit from my car. But for anyone wanting to try this, don't over do it. Just use a 1k. Seriously.
 

RDC98tdi

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Sep 14, 2009
Location
Louisville KY
TDI
'13 Jetta 6MT Prem / (RIP) '98 Jetta 5MT [280k+mi]
Now which pins would I do this to on a 98 A3 jetta? I searched through this thread and the huge "champagne perf..." thread and couldn't find that. Would I still use pings 2 & 3, and if so, where does the pin count start? Bottom or top where a pin is missing?

One more Q, I was thinking of building a switch box. One switch to enable it, then another switch that chooses between 880 ohms or 1320. Would these be suitable with everything else stock? or should I try 1100 and 1320?
 

DirtyDzl

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RDC98tdi said:
Now which pins would I do this to on a 98 A3 jetta? I searched through this thread and the huge "champagne perf..." thread and couldn't find that. Would I still use pings 2 & 3, and if so, where does the pin count start? Bottom or top where a pin is missing?

One more Q, I was thinking of building a switch box. One switch to enable it, then another switch that chooses between 880 ohms or 1320. Would these be suitable with everything else stock? or should I try 1100 and 1320?
Every car reacts a little different, that's why pots are used to dial in what does what.

I can't answer your question. Look on your injector harness for the numbers though, they are labeled. If they're not, i'd stay away from doing it.
 

KB3MMX

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Jun 7, 2009
Location
Shippensburg, Pennsylvania
TDI
98 Jetta
TDICADDGUY said:
Its a crappy and ineffective mod that could potentially damage your engine.

UUUmmmmm, any mod could "potentially" do that.:rolleyes: :rolleyes:



We've been running the mod on my brother's car with 200,000+ mi for a while and it works AWESOME !!!:D
 

RDC98tdi

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Sep 14, 2009
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Louisville KY
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'13 Jetta 6MT Prem / (RIP) '98 Jetta 5MT [280k+mi]
thanks for the quick reply! i finally found on the other thread that it's still pins 2&3 even on the 8 pin harness. I got a flashlite and found the readout. mines a little dirty so they were hard to distinguish. i dont have a POT available, just 10 220 ohm resistors so i figured id try either doing 880 & 1320 (4 in series, or 6 in series) or 1100 & 1320 (1 in series with 4 in series, or 1 in series with 5 in series)
 

RDC98tdi

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Louisville KY
TDI
'13 Jetta 6MT Prem / (RIP) '98 Jetta 5MT [280k+mi]
Hey got it workin. Project box has an "on/off" switch (bottom) that feeds into a SPDT switch (top). Flipped to the left side, 1300 ohms in the circuit, the right, 800. I barely notice the 1300, just enough to help going up hills (I live near a bunch of country roads :D). 800 ohms, well its not makin me roll the coals lol but I remember 1st and 2nd gear usually taking alot longer. Also, the third gear pull is awesome. 40-65 mph makes me smile how smooth it is. I also noticed that 5th gear acceleration from about 60-75 is superb. Much better than a 4 banger gasser dropping into 4th. I can't wait to get my mufflerectomy!
 
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