Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the Manual Swap

alphaseinor said:

Have you moved the pin on the ECU yet?

fold all orphans over 180* and heat shrink.

One tip on your camera, is to use the macro lens mode (some cameras it's a flower icon, some it's a M)

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Yes, the #19 pin has been moved to the formerly empty #66.
I'm still apprehensive that freakin YELLOW/BLUE wire is maybe not the right one...any way to double check that?
Problems with intermittent VAG-COM communications (Yes, it's the real deal from RossTech, - laptop probs most likely)

Cool, orphans taken care of.
I'll try the macro lens next time.

Continuity check the yellow blue with where you think it goes...

alphaseinor said:

Continuity check the yellow blue with where you think it goes...

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It's the one that had continuity to pin #9 on the 175 socket but was supposed to be YELLOW/GREEN.
I'm done for the night. Alpha, you've been a huge help today.
Tomorrow morning; goin' down to the local exhaust dude for a straight pipe. :-D

I'll post up another thread that could be linked to this one with the complete 3rd revision we did of the electronics. All the questions asked are covered and it's real simple to follow. It take just a few hours to do the whole thing. I REALLY do recommend an electrical continuity tester. Harbor Freight Tools sells a nice one for $30.

I say another thread as this one is just ridiculously big and takes hours to sort through.

jasonTDI said:

I'll post up another thread that could be linked to this one with the complete 3rd revision we did of the electronics. All the questions asked are covered and it's real simple to follow. It take just a few hours to do the whole thing. I REALLY do recommend an electrical continuity tester. Harbor Freight Tools sells a nice one for $30.

I say another thread as this one is just ridiculously big and takes hours to sort through.

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The more versions the better! I'm working on one for my car as well. Looks like one should not assume colors and pin references apply to their model just because it's pre 99.5 or post-whatever.

jasonTDI said:

I'll post up another thread that could be linked to this one with the complete 3rd revision we did of the electronics. All the questions asked are covered and it's real simple to follow. It take just a few hours to do the whole thing. I REALLY do recommend an electrical continuity tester. Harbor Freight Tools sells a nice one for $30.

I say another thread as this one is just ridiculously big and takes hours to sort through.

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Great idea Jason...the more the better. I am going to need to get rolling on mine very soon. Trans is slipping more, shifts are getting harder...the rubber band is getting stretchier.

The wiring seems to be the sticking point for most people... but it's actually quite simple, just the wire colors were changed to protect the engineers.

jasonTDI said:

I'll post up another thread that could be linked to this one with the complete 3rd revision we did of the electronics.

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I'll be looking for it since I think I've just about exhausted the possibilities on this end.
Thanks

What would help here is a good close up picture of each modified connector so that wire color does not confuse.

Any volunteers?

So what do you have working right now?

alphaseinor said:

The wiring seems to be the sticking point for most people... but it's actually quite simple, just the wire colors were changed to protect the engineers.

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Wire colors as well as some pin numbers...

alphaseinor said:

So what do you have working right now?

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The really important stuff- Starter interlock and Reverse lights - so everything but the CC. Great thing about that is that the Jet is once again my daily driver!
I (properly) eliminated that pesky YELLOW/BLUE wire so now there is only one wire (BLACK/GREEN) running +12V to the Black (CC Cancel) switch. Then I connected the RED/GREY wire (from pin #3) to the CC Cancel switch as well as under the cowl, to the RED/YELLOW one that now goes to pin #66 at the ECU.
Still no cruise and I think I've run out of possibilities from the 175 relay, except those that are dedicated to the new 53 relay.

Basically, you need +12V going to pin 66

GdB said:

What would help here is a good close up picture of each modified connector so that wire color does not confuse.

Any volunteers?

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Yup. When I get this figured out I promise to detail what my car's conversion entailed. With at least some pics.

alphaseinor said:

Basically, you need +12V going to pin 66

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There is +12V going to pin 66 as long as the ignition is on and the clutch is out. Which I think is good.
I'll try to get my hands on that VAG COM again...meanwhile, any other ideas?

BTW: Is there anything I need to do with the VAG COM to make this work, or is it simply a troubleshooting tool?

it's simply a troubleshooting tool in this case... if your cruise worked before, then it should work now.

the +12 should be there if the foot is off the pedal (which is clutch in).

alphaseinor said:

...if your cruise worked before, then it should work now.

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alphasenior said:

the +12 should be there if the foot is off the pedal (which is clutch in).

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Yes, foot off pedal = +12V.
Pushing pedal in breaks continuity which cancels CC.

Hmm...

Definately needs a vag-com to help diagnose...

I need some 108mm flanges for a auto to manual swap.

I am also looking for a G60 flywheel.

Thanks,
GdB

A_Shifter said:

How's that going CoolAir?

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A little bumpy, but Aaron is being very helpful. Most of the problems relate to the fact that it was assumed that the trans would come with stuff. But Aarons supplier's trans didn't have that stuff on it. ie mount bracket, fork, shifter levers ect.

We're helping Aaron update the part number list so that his kit will be more complete for future customers.

Right now were waiting on the fork spring that retains the fork to the pivot ball.

New question....

Aarons kit came with a new left side mount. The old auto-trans mount and the new manual-trans mount look identical and the part number is the same except for the last letter. Maybe the difference is just the durameter of the rubber?

AutohausAZ shows different mount for auto and manual.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=20qli4bu4eav5d45oihjvl45&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1389214@JETTA%20TDI&year=2002&cid=20@Engine%20Parts,%20Seals%20%26%20Gaskets&gid=5552@Engine/Motor%20Mount

Anyone used the auto mount on the standard successfully? Seems that would save a bundle if it wasn't needed.

The mounts are technically different, not sure how...

I've always reused the mounts, unless they have collapsed, then I replace it with a manual part number.

CoolAirVw said:

New question....

Aarons kit came with a new left side mount. The old auto-trans mount and the new manual-trans mount look identical and the part number is the same except for the last letter. Maybe the difference is just the durameter of the rubber?

AutohausAZ shows different mount for auto and manual.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=20qli4bu4eav5d45oihjvl45&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1389214@JETTA%20TDI&year=2002&cid=20@Engine%20Parts,%20Seals%20%26%20Gaskets&gid=5552@Engine/Motor%20Mount

Anyone used the auto mount on the standard successfully? Seems that would save a bundle if it wasn't needed.

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The left side mount is actually two different pieces. The upper portion of the mount (with the rubber insert) is interchangeable. The lower part bolts to the manual transaxle horizontally, as opposed to the automatic mount, which bolts vertically.
Here is the new one that Aaron sent me for about $110.


Now here is the lower part of the mount for the Automatic

You're also going to need the black metal bar that goes diagonally from the transmission (behind the shift mechanism) up to the upper horizontal bolt hole on the lower part of the mount. (I'm new to Mac so my photo editing skills suck- a verbal description will have to do)
It's the black bar that runs parallel to the slave cyl. right underneath the "s" curve on the power steering line.

I've got some cable ends I'm not using since I went with the DG short shifter. If you need them I'll ship 'em out gratis.

CoolAirVw said:

Most of the problems relate to the fact that it was assumed that the trans would come with stuff.

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Make sure you've got two switches on the clutch pedal too, including a bracket for the upper (starter interlock) switch.

There is also a cross bar between the clutch pedal and the brake pedal...

Ya, got those switches coming. Do your harness "plug ins" for those switches have any numbers on them? Dealer said they are available but couldn't get them without the part number off the "old" one.

A_Shifter said:

Make sure you've got two switches on the clutch pedal too, including a bracket for the upper (starter interlock) switch.

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Could you take the pedal out of that bracket, take a pic, and show me all the related parts that the pedal pivots on. I would assume that there is 2 bushings a spacer and one bolt, or maybe 2 bolts.

All I have is the bracket and the pedal.

A_Shifter said:

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CoolAirVw said:

Ya, got those switches coming. Do your harness "plug ins" for those switches have any numbers on them? Dealer said they are available but couldn't get them without the part number off the "old" one.

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I didn't see any numbers on the pigtails and even though they look the same, they are not interchangeable - the sockets are shaped differently. I was lucky enough to have found them in a box of old harnesses.

CoolAirVw said:

Could you take the pedal out of that bracket, take a pic, and show me all the related parts that the pedal pivots on. I would assume that there is 2 bushings a spacer and one bolt, or maybe 2 bolts.

All I have is the bracket and the pedal.

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Not sure, since the car's up and running...I'd have to pull the pedal back out.
See if you can get an exploded view of it from your VW parts guy. Meanwhile, I'll look for a copy I'm pretty sure I've got laying around.

A_Shifter said:

Not sure, since the car's up and running...I'd have to pull the pedal back out.
See if you can get an exploded view of it from your VW parts guy. Meanwhile, I'll look for a copy I'm pretty sure I've got laying around.

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Nope...No copy. Sorry man.

A_Shifter said:

Not sure, since the car's up and running...I'd have to pull the pedal back out.
See if you can get an exploded view of it from your VW parts guy.

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No problem, Aaron sent me the etka exploded diagram. We're short alot of parts there, so were solving the problem by buying a clutch pedal assembly from ebay. 40 bucks buy it now.

I got the trans bolted to the motor and the LS mount in. Now I'm suffering from sinusitus, and off work, so thats one more thing to slow this project down.

Swap done and test driven! Yeah!

Were still short clutch switch harness's, and reverse switch harness, and a few other knick knacks. So we just made it driveable till we get the rest of the stuff.

Thanks to alphaneisor for all the Research to blaze the trail for us to follow.