Cam wear only on one cylinder?

homeworld8118

Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2018
Location
Oregon
TDI
04 Jetta Wagon TDI
I pulled the valve cover on my 04 TDI BEW to check cam wear today. Everything looked fine, still has good profile and no scoring, except on one cylinder. The pully side cylinder. Even has a little bur on either side. Any ideas why only this one would be the issue?
 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 2005 BEW Beetle, 2005 Jetta Wagon
It is the first to go.
It only takes one to spoil the party.
How many miles on the car?
 

turbotorq

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2013
Location
Kingston, ON
TDI
04 Jetta TDI
I pulled the valve cover on my 04 TDI BEW to check cam wear today. Everything looked fine, still has good profile and no scoring, except on one cylinder. The pully side cylinder. Even has a little bur on either side. Any ideas why only this one would be the issue?

What kind of oil are you using ?
 

Ol'Rattler

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Location
PNA
TDI
2006 BRM Jetta
Probably motor oil............. Just so people know. VW dealers do not even sell the correct oil for PD motors. The correct spec is VW 505.01 5W-40. Dealers only sell VW 505.01 oil in 5W-30. The right spec but the wrong weight. But why would VW care? They don't. You are out of warranty, so you can just go eff yourself.

One bad lobe, game called. Replace the cam and lifters.
 
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homeworld8118

Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2018
Location
Oregon
TDI
04 Jetta Wagon TDI
The car has 172k on it. The P.O. wasn’t a mechanical kinda guy, but took it to a TDI shop that supposedly use the right oil. I am doing the first oil change this weekend with Rotela T6.
 

Genesis

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 26, 2003
Location
Sevier County TN
TDI
'03 Jetta Wagon
If I recall correctly (I own an ALH) T6 is NOT the correct oil for the PD engines; it does not meet spec. It is an excellent oil for the ALH however (and I've used it for 240k trouble-free miles.)
 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 2005 BEW Beetle, 2005 Jetta Wagon
If I recall correctly (I own an ALH) T6 is NOT the correct oil for the PD engines; it does not meet spec. It is an excellent oil for the ALH however (and I've used it for 240k trouble-free miles.)

A lot, but not all, of the BEW engines seem to do OK with T6 but the BRMs that Ive worked on seem to barely make it to the second timing belt change without serious cam issues...even when using a 505.1 5W40.

A lot of owners trusted the VW dealers to change the oil properly but it usually winds up being that they put in 505.1 5W30...and like it was mentioned, why would VW care if the engine wears out after the warranty period?
 
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BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Well, yea, dealers. Some were using blends, even seen this with the Honda folks, when observing service noted dealership uses valvoline or some other less expensive product.
But that's moot now. Maybe evaluate the possible cause of the wear as you refresh parts. If you can get member Franko6 to advise, you'll be way ahead. I have 0 experience (just a lot of reading) with this type repair.
 

homeworld8118

Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2018
Location
Oregon
TDI
04 Jetta Wagon TDI
Thanks all for the info. I’ll keep posting when I get to the cam swap job.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

coalminer16

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 11, 2008
Location
Central Wisconsin
TDI
Golf 2004
Not a big deal. Do the timing belt with the cam. Cam only adds an hour or two to the Tb change. Done a few myself. Get Frank's bolt and bearing kit at a minimum. His cam is good too but cost is higher then a stock one. I have one of his cams and did a couple stock cams.

Depending on how much metal was sent through your oil pump consider changing the pump as it can score it up and lost pressure. Filter is after the pump.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

2005TDI_1994IDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Location
South Texas
TDI
Golf, 2005, Indigo blue
Most people including myself use T6 and have oil related failures. I have 190,000 miles on Mine and the UOA always come back great. Just because Shell did not go through all the certifications to obtain the VW rating, doesn’t mean it’s not good for your motor
 

2005TDI_1994IDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Location
South Texas
TDI
Golf, 2005, Indigo blue
Most people including myself use T6 and have oil related failures. I have 190,000 miles on Mine and the UOA always come back great. Just because Shell did not go through all the certifications to obtain the VW rating, doesn’t mean it’s not good for your motor
 

maxmoo

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Location
Lakefield, Ontario, Canada
TDI
2000 golf, 2001 golf, 2000 beetle, 2003 wagon, 2004 golf, 2004 jetta, all diesels
Most people including myself use T6 and have oil related failures. I have 190,000 miles on Mine and the UOA always come back great. Just because Shell did not go through all the certifications to obtain the VW rating, doesn’t mean it’s not good for your motor

Is that really what you meant to say? :confused:
 

jphack58

Active member
Joined
Jan 21, 2017
Location
Arizona
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
T6 is ok, I add the zinc additive that was taken out due to the cat plugging. but I have had no issues, even use it in my Duramax. hi end oil always had a bit more than the cheaper ones, and get mot mileage to change, worked for years as HD and used Cat sampling on lots of equip, we could tell the cheap oil guys.
 

Franko6

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
I drove the Shell Rotella 5-40 Synthetic as soon as it became available in around 1998. For the ALH, I believe it was one of the best oils on the market.

When EPA changed the rules in '07 requiring the ZDDP be reduced 50% I felt that was like a doctor telling you to take 1/2 your heart medicine. Sure, we could add ZDDP, but a $12 per oil change, that is an unreasonable cost. Our opinion is, the oil you buy should be correct right out of the bottle.

That is what led us to the Schaeffer's 9000 5-40 oil. And we also recommend a break-in oil made by Joe Gibbs, BR. The initial 1/2 hr break-in is 'the life of the cam'.

We do not say this lightly, as with our modified cam, cam bearings, bolts and break-in procedure, along with a limited list of 'approved oils'; we have 2,200 cam kits sold in the last 10 years, with only 3 cam failures. We have many cams exceed 250,000 miles and still performing well. Our mileage leader has almost 450,000 additional miles. We are very happy with our survivability of the cam. It is a part of our success story.

But there are rules to get where we take it. NO MOBILE 1!! NO Castrol! We do not use any additives, as the oil is correct as we sell it.

As for the cams out there, we have seen some head-shaking troubles. Let me first say that just about every cam built for the PD cams today are BILLET. It is NOT because it's BETTER to be BILLET. As a matter of fact, one cam brags that it's a billet cam when IT'S EXACTLY THE SAME THING, ONLY WITH A BIGGER PRICE TAG!

The reason for billet is not particularly because it is better, but because it's actually CHEAPER to produce!

We checked out every cam we could get our hands on, including a Chinese cam and tested them. The first thing I can say is the cams 'Made in Turkey' are good materials, but the same wrong cam profile on the OEM cams.

As for where they are made, the one that says, 'Made it Spain', should say 'Made in Turkey'. We examined the cams closely enough that you could see, not only were several of the cams made in the same location, you could see they were made on the SAME MACHINE! The chatter marks from grinding and the lateral slop as the stone wandered sideways on the cam lobe were identical... like a fingerprint, on several of the different labeled cams.
Each cam was also etched with a Green YAG laser to mark each different cam. But really, they are all the same thing, made in the same place. However, we think there may be a grading system, that some cams are graded better and some worse, from the same factory.

We know there are many who try to install a stock aftermarket cam and are replacing the worn-out cam at or before a timing belt change interval. It's not just the cam, but the cam followers, cam bearings, bolts, worn out oil pump and labor that when required to be replaced again, make a cam that lasts worth the extra cost.

To those who can 'pull it off' and get away with a stock cam, I can tell you the BEW has better life expectancy for a variety of reasons. Past that the reason one cam might survive longer than another: it's driving style, driving distance, cruising speed, temperature zone, and maintenance that will exacerbate wear issues or protect from them.

Homeworld:

If you would like, we would be happy to send you an estimate of repairs. Along with our parts, we also provide 'technical support' and can offer the loaner tools to get the job done right.
 
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2005TDI_1994IDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Location
South Texas
TDI
Golf, 2005, Indigo blue
I am running T6 in the VW and Schaeffer's 9000 5-40 in the 2000 F350 7.3 powerstroke. Might go to T6 on both, due to cost and availability. I have had good results with both oils and have the UOA to backup that claim. As regards to Mobile 1, my 7.3 didn’t like it and that oil I use on garden equipment only. I also don’t go with extended oil changes, both the VW and Ford get oil changes at 5,000 max. Only time will tell, the VW has 190,000 and so far the only items replaced on the power train has been the alternator pulley and 2 Timing belt jobs.
 

Genesis

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 26, 2003
Location
Sevier County TN
TDI
'03 Jetta Wagon
I don't have trouble with Mobil 1 on my GAS cars; their UOAs are fine with it. But it is rarely the most cost-effective option around here. Pennzoil and Castrol are usually cheaper for the same grade and both also have returned excellent UOAs, so whatever has the lower ticket gets bought for those vehicles.

T6 is readily available and in my ALH has provided good service; I see no reason to use anything else in those engines. But I probably wouldn't use it in a BRM or BEW.
 

turbotorq

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2013
Location
Kingston, ON
TDI
04 Jetta TDI
So the question is, does the camshaft actually wear out or is it the lifters that wear, which then wears the harness from the camshaft out?
 

2000alhVW

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2018
Location
Silver Spring, MD
TDI
2000 Golf
I drove the Shell Rotella 5-40 Synthetic as soon as it became available in around 1998. For the ALH, I believe it was one of the best oils on the market.

When EPA changed the rules in '07 requiring the ZDDP be reduced 50% I felt that was like a doctor telling you to take 1/2 your heart medicine. Sure, we could add ZDDP, but a $12 per oil change, that is an unreasonable cost. Our opinion is, the oil you buy should be correct right out of the bottle.

That is what led us to the Schaeffer's 9000 5-40 oil. And we also recommend a break-in oil made by Joe Gibbs, BR. The initial 1/2 hr break-in is 'the life of the cam'.

We do not say this lightly, as with our modified cam, cam bearings, bolts and break-in procedure, along with a limited list of 'approved oils'; we have 2,200 cam kits sold in the last 10 years, with only 3 cam failures. We have many cams exceed 250,000 miles and still performing well. Our mileage leader has almost 450,000 additional miles. We are very happy with our survivability of the cam. It is a part of our success story.

But there are rules to get where we take it. NO MOBILE 1!! NO Castrol! We do not use any additives, as the oil is correct as we sell it.

As for the cams out there, we have seen some head-shaking troubles. Let me first say that just about every cam built for the PD cams today are BILLET. It is NOT because it's BETTER to be BILLET. As a matter of fact, one cam brags that it's a billet cam when IT'S EXACTLY THE SAME THING, ONLY WITH A BIGGER PRICE TAG!

The reason for billet is not particularly because it is better, but because it's actually CHEAPER to produce!

We checked out every cam we could get our hands on, including a Chinese cam and tested them. The first thing I can say is the cams 'Made in Turkey' are good materials, but the same wrong cam profile on the OEM cams.

As for where they are made, the one that says, 'Made it Spain', should say 'Made in Turkey'. We examined the cams closely enough that you could see, not only were several of the cams made in the same location, you could see they were made on the SAME MACHINE! The chatter marks from grinding and the lateral slop as the stone wandered sideways on the cam lobe were identical... like a fingerprint, on several of the different labeled cams.
Each cam was also etched with a Green YAG laser to mark each different cam. But really, they are all the same thing, made in the same place. However, we think there may be a grading system, that some cams are graded better and some worse, from the same factory.

We know there are many who try to install a stock aftermarket cam and are replacing the worn-out cam at or before a timing belt change interval. It's not just the cam, but the cam followers, cam bearings, bolts, worn out oil pump and labor that when required to be replaced again, make a cam that lasts worth the extra cost.

To those who can 'pull it off' and get away with a stock cam, I can tell you the BEW has better life expectancy for a variety of reasons. Past that the reason one cam might survive longer than another: it's driving style, driving distance, cruising speed, temperature zone, and maintenance that will exacerbate wear issues or protect from them.

Homeworld:

If you would like, we would be happy to send you an estimate of repairs. Along with our parts, we also provide 'technical support' and can offer the loaner tools to get the job done right.
Amen.

Enjoyed reading the post and learned a bit in the process.
 
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