96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking

abadany

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2004
TDI
passat, 96, white
I have a 96 Passat TDI with a leaky Fuel Injection Pump. Is there any place that fixes these pumps for a reasonable price? Also what could have caused this? I will appreciate any feedback.
Thanks
Mike from Albuquerque
 

RIP TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 16, 2000
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
TDI
'15 GSW SE 6MT...... '01 Golf GLS 5MT.... '96 Passat Variant....
You or your mechanic can repair the leak without removing the pump. The most common leakage point for these older pumps are the O-rings at the top and bottom of the quantity adjuster housing. A VAG-COM, a special socket (Metalnerd or Bosch), and a seal kit are required. Socket and seal kit should be about $60.

Try to verify exactly where the leak is. First, check the rectangular cover on top of the quantity adjuster housing, secured by Torx screws, on the top front of the pump. Beneath the top cover is the quantity adjuster housing. It is the O-ring beneath the Q.A. housing that is most likely to be the problem. If not, other possible areas are the distributor head and the shut-off solenoid.

Why do they leak? I don't know for sure, but one of my Passats is driven daily, the other sits unused for long periods. The daily driver has never leaked, the little driven one did. I suspect that the lack of fuel flow through the pump for extended periods drys up and shrinks the O-rings.
 

abadany

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2004
TDI
passat, 96, white
Thanks for the reply, It is leaking from the rectangular cover. Where does one obtain the socket and the kit?
You are correct, This car has not been driven much for the past month or so.
 

RIP TDI

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 16, 2000
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
TDI
'15 GSW SE 6MT...... '01 Golf GLS 5MT.... '96 Passat Variant....
H. G. Makelin Co., 714-978-0071, sells:
Bosch seal kit PN: 2-467-010-003-000.
Bosch socket (for special bolt head) PN: 0-986-612-605. Metalnerd's version is cheaper.

This job is not difficult but, because removing the quantity adjuster housing disturbs the range of Injection Quantity adjustment for the pump, a special procedure is required. Before you remove the housing, check the Injection Quantity value with your VAG-COM. Then scribe index marks on the pump body and Q.A. housing indicating the housing's position relative to the pump body (the cover slides/adjusts laterally). When you reinstall it, PRECISELY match up the marks. Then recheck the IQ. You will find it has changed even though you carefully matched up the marks. That's because a lateral cover movement of just a few .001" translates to a significant change in IQ value. Its important that you get the Q. A. housing adjusted (with index marks) within the ball park or the engine will not start.

If, for other reasons, you wanted to change the IQ range beyond what it was originally, this would be a good time to do it...but use caution.
 

jettasmoke

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Location
Socali
TDI
Jetta 98
hey guys
I called this place and he said that they dont sell the kit and I have to buy it from some bosch dealer..???
I live in riverside CA I dont want to get the shaft from a bosch dealer. any help please..do I just go down there and get it??? just need the seal kit...
told him that i read about them on the tdiclub but he was like I dont kown anything
 

BeetleGo

TDIClub Enthusiast, Pre-Forum Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 21, 1998
Location
Cambridge, MA
TDI
5-door, 5-speed Golf GLS replaced BeetleGo.
a-HA! Clearly you've been using biodiesel! I mean, everyone KNOWS that biodiesel in ANY concentration causes fuel pumps to leak on the spot!

Fess up!

~BeetleGo, just yankin' ya chain. With all the 'discussion' that goes on in the biodiesel section on this topic, I couldn't resist!
 

jettasmoke

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Location
Socali
TDI
Jetta 98
no bio stuff here just real fuel:)
its has 187,000 miles seals, do get old
any numbers I can call to get a seal kit??
 

MattBissell

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Location
Gilroy, California
TDI
2012 Golf DSG 4D Shark Blue
I called HG Makelin direct and they told me the same thing. They gave me a Bosch dealer to buy thru up here in bay area. This job is not easy and you do need a vag-com. It took me over an hour to get the injection quantity set right. Be careful too because the engine can race on you if the IQ is set too high. Try to find someone in your area who has done this before and have them help you. You may want to take it to Leonard in Fullerton when you have the time to make the trip. Just my 2 cents worth. BTW i have done a lot of wrenching on my own vehicles and this job was tough for me.

Matt B.
 

jettasmoke

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Location
Socali
TDI
Jetta 98
hi
thanks for the info
do you have Leonards in Fullerton e-mail or number???
thanks
I live in riverside so the drive to Fullerton is not a problem:)
 

MattBissell

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Location
Gilroy, California
TDI
2012 Golf DSG 4D Shark Blue
Leonard runs Wild Rose Motors specializing in TDI's. He has a car lot and is busy fixing the cars that he buys for resale so you may have to patient or he may be able to recommend a shop near Riverside that can help you. his e-mail is wrmltd@pacbell.net he is also a poster on this site under Harvieux.

Good luck.
Matt B.
 

Audi5000td

Banned
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
TDI
2005 passat Wagon Northern Green
I can confirm, do PM or email Harv, he usually has a VE4 seal kit in stock and has the socket also. Plus he has the knowledge.

I will be trying to get to his shop this week to do my injector pump seals.
 

Audi5000td

Banned
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
TDI
2005 passat Wagon Northern Green
B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HOW TO

Whew!

OK folks, I've seen Leonard Harvieux in a new light. Today, we changed out the seals on my injector pump, both upper and lower on the Quantity Adjuster portion of my Bosch VE-4.

Harvieux deserves all the credit for setting up a Great indexing system for putting things back in place.

Enclosed are some pics.

This is a top down view of your injector pump, hidden underneath that noise deadening black TDI cover. Note the unusual proprietary Bosch bolt head in the lower left side of the photo. It requires a special socket.



Harvieux, goes and sprays the lower left hand side of the pump with degreaser, wipes all residue and oil/goo off, then he takes an indelible black marker and marks all around the left front corner. The purpose of this is to control the amount of left and right lateral position when repositioning the Quantity Adjuster body.




Here is another view from the top.



This screw that holds the electrical cable needs to be removed before you start undoing the bolts on the top and bottom sections of the Quatity Adjuster to replace the seals.



After replacing the seals, first the upper seal gets changed out, then the lower seal, paying attention to where the "ears" are on the new gaskets, loosely tighten all the bolts after you have placed the lower section EXACTLY back where you marked it in black indelible ink. If you see fresh metal between the black, the QA MUST be moved ever so slightly towards the pump pulley to remove the gap of metal showing.

Get it in position, and snug the bolts up without moving the QA housing. Be very careful and do not lose the washers on the bolts.


It is important to fix leaking pumps almost as soon as you discover the leaks. Failure to do so can cause fuel damage to the hoses to the water pump directly underneath the Injector Pump.

Harvieux replaced the QA body back on my pump, and upon checking the figs on the VAG COM, I was flowing at 4.6 mg per pump stroke, which is a middle of the road position.

This is an example of hoses that have seen too much seepage of diesel fuel and are bound to fail soon, and in dire need of replacement. Note the bulges and swelling just behind the clamps.





This hose T will need replacing also.





The final adjustment muyst be done with a warmed up motor and a VAG-COM to check your quantities. See the "Hammer Mod" for fine tuning the placement of the body while the VAGCOM is on and your motor is running, then snug the bolts up and clean up your tools.

WARNING ! Under no circumstances should you start the motor up if there is a metal gap showing between your index mark of black ink and the Q. A. Lower Body. The body will be located too close to the pump head, and out of range of the Q A and can cause a runaway motor which might be unstoppable and result in destroying your engine. If you see a metal gap showing reposition the Q A minisculely closer to the pulley/timiong belt side of the pump to remedy this.

After you have snugged the Q A body loosely, go and pull the return line form your #1 injector, located nearest the timing belt. Attach a vacuum pump to the return line, and pump up the pump to create a vacuum and get fuel into your injector pump body, as well as get all the air out of the fuel line system. Doing this will save your starter and about 10 minutes of cranking. Activate the vacuum pump until all the air bubbles air purged from the lines and you are sucking pure fuel.

Please understand this.... Harvieux or myself take no responsibility in your understanding or lack therof of these instructions and and pictures. You are underwriting your own liablity in using these pictues and information. This is provided as a knowledge base for people with very high mechancial inclinations and abilities.

And a Thank You to Harvieux for sharing this useful maintenance tip to get things just right. You have to have replaced quite a few seals to be able to put the QA back on and get it right the first time, without the QA needing any adjustment. We did confirm this with a VAG COM reading.
 

Stan TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2003
Location
Eagan, Minnesota, USA
TDI
Jetta, 1997 1Z (RIP), 2002 Jetta GLS, 2002 Jetta GLS, 2006 Jetta Pkg 1
Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HOW TO

Thanks for the great post with pictures! Now if I could see a picture of what has to be done for the hammer mod portion of this process, I would be very happy.

BTW...did you replace the fuel temp sensor while you had it apart?
 

Audi5000td

Banned
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
TDI
2005 passat Wagon Northern Green
Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HO

Do a "search" but basically, the hammer mod is having the bolts on the QA just snug, and placing a wooden handle of a hammer against the body of the QA and gently tapping the QA while you have VAG-COM hooked up, to see if your mg are goin gup or down. To the pulley brings the number up, to the pump head brings the numbers down. Get them where you need them... You check the VAG com figure before you start this project for baseline figures. 2.4 to 2.8 mg/stroke was what mine was set at before I started this project.

Once you got the VAG-Com numbers adjusted back to what they were before you started, you cinch the bolts tight, locking the QA body in it's proper place.
 

Stan TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2003
Location
Eagan, Minnesota, USA
TDI
Jetta, 1997 1Z (RIP), 2002 Jetta GLS, 2002 Jetta GLS, 2006 Jetta Pkg 1
Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HO

Thanks Audi500td! I have reviewed this before and it is just on obvious to me based on the descriptions. I did a search again and it is a little clearer I think. I just loosen the top 4 bolts 1/2 to 1 turn and tap the top of the pump towards the passenger side (in my case); and, set IQ to default before I do this. It sounds easy enough.
 

Audi5000td

Banned
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
TDI
2005 passat Wagon Northern Green
Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HO

No, you loosen the bottom 3 bolts and one of the top 4, as I recall. You don't want to move the lid, you want to move the whole assy left or right.
 

Audi5000TDI

Banned
Joined
Jul 25, 2005
Location
CA, Good old USA
TDI
Passat, 1996, Grey
Re: B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HO

Moderator,

Can we make this a "Sticky" since it comes up so frequently in the A3/B4 Maintenance section so frequently?

As we move to ULSD in 2006, it will be a certainty that injector pumps everywhere start leaking all over, due to the lower aromatic content of ULSD and shrinking of the seals as a result.

Thanks!
 

Dodoma

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2004
TDI
2002 Jetta White
Leaky Injection Pump (IP)

Leaking IP can be solved the hard way by installing the various seals. The easy way out is as follows:

1. Locate the source of the leak, usually the joint or crack between mating surfaces.
2. Clean the area with brake cleaner or other solvent and dry it.
3. From Pep Boys or other auto parts stores, buy J-B Weld (it comes in two tubes). Mix the compounds in the two tubes in equal proportion. Stir the mixture for some time (or follow the direction on the tubes) and then apply over the joint where the leaks eminates. Let it dry for 4-6 hours.
4. After curing, feel free to drive.

By this way, you solved the problem for ever.
 
Last edited:

oldiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Location
Ortona Florida
TDI
Looking for one
Pump seal kit

I ordred the seal kit and fuel temp sensor for my AHU from Impex and had it in a couple of days .The seal kit SKU#5522404 $15.55 and temp sensor SKU #117283 $17.60. i used my dremel to cut a screwdriver slot in the head of the special bolt and did not find that this was a difficult job to do,i marked the position of the cover very carefully before removing it and put it back on the same mark.It is very critical to position the cover EXACTLY where it was before you started.After i put it back together as carefully as i could it started right up and ran OK but did not have the power at low rpm that it had before. I do not have a vag com so i contacted forum member Jun Vega and he adjusted my IQ and now the car runs just fine.At the same time he saw that my timing was in the lower part of the allowable range so we brought that up a bit too,time will tell if that makes a difference in mileage.As a side note my car with +200k miles did not leak until i let it sit without running for about 3 months.
 

Tom_Phillip

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Location
Waldo, WI
TDI
B4?, 1996, Green
I am reading this post with interest as I prepare to take on the same project with my '96 Passat. I am wondering if the low-sulfer fuel is a contributing factor.

Is there a thread from Audi5000TD that had the photos available anywhere? I looked and could not find the pictures.

I just read through a series of posts regarding buying an Ebay cable and using shareware to set up a poor-man's version of a VAG COM and get the picture that it's a little like spitting into the wind. Im going to see if I can find a local TDI guru with a registered Vag Com and the experience to go along with it.

---
Tom Phillip
 

jollyGreenGiant

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2003
Location
MA
TDI
03 Golf TDI GLS ( my 5th TDI ), 03 Eurovan GLS - VR6 :(
Dodoma said:
Leaking IP can be solved the hard way by installing the various seals. The easy way out is as follows:

1. Locate the source of the lead, usually the joint or crack between mating surfaces.
2. Clean the area with brake cleaner or other solvent and dry it.
3. From Pep Boys or other auto parts stores, buy J-B Weld (it comes in two tubes). Mix the compounds in the two tubes in equal proportion. Stir the mixture for some time (or follow the direction on the tubes) and then apply over the joint where the leaks eminates. Let it dry for 4-6 hours.
4. After curing, feel free to drive.

By this way, you solved the problem for ever.
Are you actually suggesting that someone apply J-B Weld over the exterior of the pump where the leak is originating instead of just simply replacing a cheap seal or two? I'm not even going to start explaining why this is just a terrible idea, am I misunderstanding something? mouth covered by hand: cough-HACK-cough-cough
 
Top