Blown Turbo? 05 BHW TDI Passat

whizznbyu

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
Waxhaw, NC
TDI
2015 Golf Sportwagen 6 speed manual. B5 died at 302k miles.
Customer upgraded to a bigger one
What does a bigger turbo do for a B5 if that is all you do? Improve boost? Any change in turbo lag? Better economy? Some threads have shown owners putting in bigger injectors with chipping and bigger turbos, bigger intercooler. Slippery slope here.
 

imo000

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Location
Cambridge
TDI
2009 M-B ML320 Diesel & '05 Passat TDI Manual 5-Speed
I think you misunderstood/I wasn't clear, when I say pinched, what i mean is that the pinch caused two 1" gashes in the charge pipe, IM a motocross guy and tubes "pinch" often enough...... not that it was "kinked" and yeah I only put a tiny bit of air through it, like 40 psi through an air nozzle at 12" away, I also pre oiled it before installing, as I didn't want a dry start of course.
I imagine it was the two large holes in my charge pipe that eventually cost me the turbo no? I don't think i've ran her low on oil...one time near the end of an oil change interval it was pretty low on the dipstick tho, need to watch that for sure.....tubro is in but after two weeks she did NOT want to start, looks like ill be doing that fuel prime whatever its called gasket soon...no leaks to the ground from it yet..THANKS AGAIN GUYS!
Charge pipe = pipe after the turbo and before the engine. If you had a leak here, how would this cause the turbo to fail?
 

PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
Charge pipe = pipe after the turbo and before the engine. If you had a leak here, how would this cause the turbo to fail?
In theory over spool. The idea is a full charged charge pipe creates enough drag there it keeps the turbo from spinning too fast.


Back in my honda tuner car days guys would slap on their turbo and run them to the tuner without a charge pipe. I've heard more than one tuner insist this not be done for fear of ruining a turbo
 
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oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Except the TDI is smarter... as soon as it detects a loss of boost, it stops trying, and goes into limp mode. ;)
 

BBB129

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2014
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon BHW 2004 Jetta 5 spd BEW - 99.5 jetta 5 speed - 1982 Mercedes 300D Manual 4 spd
Ahhhh, I see, I simply do not know what im talking about haha, I assumed it was sucking in through the turbo but that wouldn't make sense, it'd be pushing, so starving for oil must have done the work. should I be worried about my cam, My first oil change on the car was the one I didn't pay attention to as far as oil consumption.....thanks for edumicating me
 

BBB129

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2014
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
TDI
2005 Passat Wagon BHW 2004 Jetta 5 spd BEW - 99.5 jetta 5 speed - 1982 Mercedes 300D Manual 4 spd
Except the TDI is smarter... as soon as it detects a loss of boost, it stops trying, and goes into limp mode. ;)
but only if its completely detached and not with a couple holes in the pipe i suppose? I know so little haha
 

whizznbyu

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
Waxhaw, NC
TDI
2015 Golf Sportwagen 6 speed manual. B5 died at 302k miles.
Customer upgraded to a bigger one, this one had about 120k miles on it and was working OK when I took it off.
What does a bigger turbo do for overall performance/fuel economy. Is it a plug and play deal or do the injectors, intercooler, etc, and chip need to be modified?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
It isn't all you do. Software changes get made to make use of it.

^^^this^^^

I personally would not bother with it, because the BHW with a simple modest software change makes plenty more power for me, even stock is actually pretty good. And, like the ALH, the BHW got a Garrett turbocharger from the factory already, so they are pretty durable to begin with.

But if you want more than that, and some people do, then a larger turbo will allow more airflow. The stock injectors already have a reasonable amount of surplus fueling capabilities.

I am not really sure I understand the nature of your repeated question. Certainly someone who has been a member of the TDI club since 2006 has gained some knowledge of power mods and turbochargers? Pretty common knowledge here. The stock turbochargers on ALL the TDIs are pretty tiny.
 
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whizznbyu

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
Waxhaw, NC
TDI
2015 Golf Sportwagen 6 speed manual. B5 died at 302k miles.
sorry about that. I was trying to get an answer along the lines of what things are done to make use of a bigger turbo. Intercoolers, what remapping needs to be done, what size injectors etc. And, if any of the modifications can allow the driver to maintain great fuel economy but have available power on demand.
 

zzdiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Location
sask. mostly now Wa.
TDI
05 passat tdi Geared BSM and Bewcam 2nd 2005 deleted ,converted and bew cam stage 2 Malone3 tune.
My FNH conversion and stage two tune gives me all the power I need or want and does 42 MPG on highway regularly.
 

PickleRick

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Location
Greenville sc
TDI
05 GLS BHW sedan 5 speed conversion. BHW Carver SantaCruz in progress
Even on my stage 2 tuned BHW mated to a DVZ i get approximately 41 to 43 mph. I set cruise on 3000 rpms which is approx 75 mph.
 

TedDively

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2019
Location
San Francisco, California
TDI
2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI
The BHW has the simplest vacuum system of all the TDIs sold in North America. That makes troubleshooting the VNT system easier. Less places for vacuum leaks.

<snip>
But with a proper scan tool, you can easily check the VNT movement in Basic Settings with the engine running. It will cycle the N75 on/off in ~5 sec stages so you can just sit and watch the VNT actuator moving up and down.
<snip>

Let us know what you find.
Jumping into this discussion, gang, because We drove the '05 Passat into the Sierras for a camping trip, and ran into this issue. Connecting my handheld scanner while in the mountains showed the dreaded P0299 code, along with the loss of power when climbing hills. Clearing the code immediately returns turbo to normal, but not for long when attempting to accelerate up those steep roads. Good times.

Once we got home, I hooked up the RossTech VCDS and ran the Basic Settings as Oilhammer described, and the VNT actuator moves fine. A visual inspection of the vacuum hoses doesn't show any obvious issues, but I'll admit that I haven't yet had time to really dig into it. The code set while I was driving with the laptop connected to the VCDS, and here's what I pulled from it:

VCDS Version Release 23.3.1 (x64) Running on Windows 10 x64(VMWare)
www.Ross-Tech.com

Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-016-BHW.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 038 997 016 N HW: 028 101 198 2
Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC G000AG 1388
Software Coding: 0150034
Work Shop Code: WSC 32446 004 1048576
VCID: 290FF0F945EB9202785-5161
1 Fault Found:

16683 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2982 /min
Torque: 218.0 Nm
Speed: 26.0 km/h
Load: 52.5 %
Voltage: 13.98 V
Bin. Bits: 00001000
Absolute Pres.: 2152.2 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 1693.2 mbar

All suggestions for where to look for the issue based on the above data will be humbly appreciated.
 
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vwztips

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
2005 Passat GLS Wagon TDI 5 spd manual w/BSM delete 2011 Tiguan TDI/DSG 2005 Audi A4 Avant 6MQ TDI 2011 BMW X5 35d
Couple of things to look at.

1. Pull the vacuum hose off the VNT actuator and inspect end. It cracks and can lose vacuum. If it looks suspect, cut an inch off and reattach.
2. Remove both the rubber hose off the turbo and the rubber elbow feeding into anti-shutter valve (at intake manifold). Thoroughly inspect both for cracks, splits, etc. Several times I have found cracks on the inside radius of the small rubber elbow feeding the ASV. Realize that hose is pushing 18-20 years old now.
 

TedDively

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2019
Location
San Francisco, California
TDI
2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI
Couple of things to look at.

1. Pull the vacuum hose off the VNT actuator and inspect end. It cracks and can lose vacuum. If it looks suspect, cut an inch off and reattach.
2. Remove both the rubber hose off the turbo and the rubber elbow feeding into anti-shutter valve (at intake manifold). Thoroughly inspect both for cracks, splits, etc. Several times I have found cracks on the inside radius of the small rubber elbow feeding the ASV. Realize that hose is pushing 18-20 years old now.
Will do, and I'll report back. When I replaced the old fuel lines a few months back, I also replaced the small tube that runs from the anti-shutter valve to the large hose, as it had developed a crack where it elbows into the valve cover.

As for the age of the hoses, I hear you. I'm about to replace all the coolant system hoses with new, and flush/backflush the heater core while I'm at it. Should be a useful project. My hope is to squeeze a handful more years from the car, as I like the way it drives -- especially on freeway trips -- and the mileage is relatively low at around 158k. I also enjoy the 45-ish mpg when running biodiesel (or blends). Of course, it's showing its age, with cracking leather, failing driver side lock mechanisms (those look to be fun to replace), breaking plastic interior bits, etc.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
You most likely have a boost leak. Smoke machine works great to find them. You can also have someone brake-torque it briefly and listen for a whooshing sound if it's bad enough.
 

TedDively

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2019
Location
San Francisco, California
TDI
2005 Passat BHW 5.5 GLS TDI
Couple of things to look at.

1. Pull the vacuum hose off the VNT actuator and inspect end. It cracks and can lose vacuum. If it looks suspect, cut an inch off and reattach.
2. Remove both the rubber hose off the turbo and the rubber elbow feeding into anti-shutter valve (at intake manifold). Thoroughly inspect both for cracks, splits, etc. Several times I have found cracks on the inside radius of the small rubber elbow feeding the ASV. Realize that hose is pushing 18-20 years old now.
Okay, gang, on Tuesday the 11th, after work, I did exactly this, and everything looked normal, except for the little hose that connects to the top of the VNT actuator. That hose had a small crack in it where it bent to fit over the top of the VNT actuator nipple. There was enough slack in the hose that I just nipped off the bad part -- about 3/4" -- and reconnected it. I'm slightly amazed to report that the car's been running perfectly since then.

My question now is this: Is there a part number for that hose, or can I just replace it with a standard vacuum hose with the same inside diameter, because I'm sure it's going to continue deteriorating over time. What do y'all think?
 
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