compu_85
Gadget Guy
I have secured a set of Chinese market LED tail lights. I'm going to document the install in this thread. I'll start off by saying these will not be plug and play on a US market car.
So let's take a look at the fixtures:
No flash:
Flash:
Like the US lights they have side reflectors; however there is no side marker light.
The inner fixtures have the "eyebrow" of LEDs and a ring around the middle, the middle, and on the driver's side a rear fog light (LED). The outer fixtures are similar but have a turn signal bulb and reverse light bulb.
Pinouts
Outer:
(looking at the plug on the back of the fixture, key up)
Inner:
(looking at the plug on the back of the fixture, key up)
Here are pictures of the lights in operation!
Rear Fog:
Inner:
Eyebrow & Ring (inner is not lit)
Turn signal:
Reverse light:
Eyebrow + ring (inner is not lit):
And finally, all the LEDs on the outer fixture:
Additionally, here is some info on the connectors on the back of the fixtures:
I'm still gathering information on the proper wiring, and coding for the body control module. My intent is to make as few modifications / cuts to the car's wiring as possible. We'll see how feasible that is once I get some wiring diagrams.
--------------------
Condensing info from other posts:
VeeDub and I decided not to do amber turn signals. We wanted the lights set up like they were from the factory, but to have the inner portion of the fixture only come on when the fixture is bright. To do this I used a Curt Manufacturing 56201 trailer light controller. This required running a constant power wire to the trunk. I also ran a wire back for the rear fog light.
Here is how I ended up connecting the lights:
That arrangement duplicates the inner and outer fixtures. The center portion of the fixture only comes on when the light is bright. Additionally, I converted the amber turn signal into an additional brake light by installing a clear lamp in place of the amber one. Note that the original amber lamps are the type that have offset pins... I just cut off one of the pins on a 1156 clear lamp to make it fit.
That diagram has a few omissions. First it doesn't show the load resistors I had to install to simulate the bulbs that were on the inner fixtures. IIRC I used 50 ohm resistors. I used metal zip ties to attach them to the structure of the trunk lid which lets the trunk lid act as a heatsink, without that they would get too hot and burn out!
Second it doesn't show how I have the rear fog light connected up front. I connected the light switch to the BCM which got the light in the cluster working, and then tapped into that wire to drive a relay which sends power back to the fog light.
Some pictures from the install: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4104074&postcount=97
Hooked up and working:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Su2KqrlpJ9E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Udul36tZdyY
A final note: Some people have hooked up these lights so the inner fixtures are hooked right up to the original inner wires, and the same with the outers. This is dangerous and should not be attempted. Hooking the lights up in this way makes the inner fixtures run at brake light brightness all the time, which obscures the brake lights. Additionally, the inner portion of the fixture is only designed to be on when the light is "bright". Having it on all the time reduces the contract between the running light and brake light significantly. I initially had the inner fixtures running through resistors to dim them down. This was somewhat acceptable but it's so easy to install the trailer light controller I can only recommend doing this in that fashion.
Thanks,
-Jason
So let's take a look at the fixtures:
No flash:
Flash:
Like the US lights they have side reflectors; however there is no side marker light.
The inner fixtures have the "eyebrow" of LEDs and a ring around the middle, the middle, and on the driver's side a rear fog light (LED). The outer fixtures are similar but have a turn signal bulb and reverse light bulb.
Pinouts
Outer:
(looking at the plug on the back of the fixture, key up)
Code:
5 3 1
6 4 2
Code:
1 - Eyebrow & Rim +
2 - Eyebrow, Rim, & Inner +
3 - LED Ground
4 - Turn Signal +
5 - Bulb Ground
6 - Reverse +
(looking at the plug on the back of the fixture, key up)
Code:
3 1
4 2
Code:
1 - Eyebrow & Rim +
2 - Ground
3 - Inner +
4 - Rear Fog + (N/C on Passenger side)
Rear Fog:
Inner:
Eyebrow & Ring (inner is not lit)
Turn signal:
Reverse light:
Eyebrow + ring (inner is not lit):
And finally, all the LEDs on the outer fixture:
Additionally, here is some info on the connectors on the back of the fixtures:
Code:
Inner 3Pin:
US Car Harness: 7N0 972 703
Opposite: 5K0 972 713
Opposite Repair wire: 000 979 132 E (need 2)
Outer 4Pin:
US Car Harness: 7N0 972 704
Opposite: NONE :(
China outer:
Fixture Plug: 3C0 972 733
Harness Plug: 1J0 972 723
Harness Repair wire: 000 979 133 E
China Inner:
Fixture Plug: 1J0 972 732
Harness Plug: 1J0 972 722
Harness Repair wire: 000 979 133 E
--------------------
Condensing info from other posts:
VeeDub and I decided not to do amber turn signals. We wanted the lights set up like they were from the factory, but to have the inner portion of the fixture only come on when the fixture is bright. To do this I used a Curt Manufacturing 56201 trailer light controller. This required running a constant power wire to the trunk. I also ran a wire back for the rear fog light.
Here is how I ended up connecting the lights:
That arrangement duplicates the inner and outer fixtures. The center portion of the fixture only comes on when the light is bright. Additionally, I converted the amber turn signal into an additional brake light by installing a clear lamp in place of the amber one. Note that the original amber lamps are the type that have offset pins... I just cut off one of the pins on a 1156 clear lamp to make it fit.
That diagram has a few omissions. First it doesn't show the load resistors I had to install to simulate the bulbs that were on the inner fixtures. IIRC I used 50 ohm resistors. I used metal zip ties to attach them to the structure of the trunk lid which lets the trunk lid act as a heatsink, without that they would get too hot and burn out!
Second it doesn't show how I have the rear fog light connected up front. I connected the light switch to the BCM which got the light in the cluster working, and then tapped into that wire to drive a relay which sends power back to the fog light.
Some pictures from the install: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4104074&postcount=97
Hooked up and working:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Su2KqrlpJ9E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Udul36tZdyY
A final note: Some people have hooked up these lights so the inner fixtures are hooked right up to the original inner wires, and the same with the outers. This is dangerous and should not be attempted. Hooking the lights up in this way makes the inner fixtures run at brake light brightness all the time, which obscures the brake lights. Additionally, the inner portion of the fixture is only designed to be on when the light is "bright". Having it on all the time reduces the contract between the running light and brake light significantly. I initially had the inner fixtures running through resistors to dim them down. This was somewhat acceptable but it's so easy to install the trailer light controller I can only recommend doing this in that fashion.
Thanks,
-Jason
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