Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the Manual Swap

Hello there!

I just converted my golf mk3 1996 90hp TDI from auto to manual. but i cant start the car!

How do i make the wiring, so the car will start with the key again? (starter doesnt react on turning the key because of the missing "P" sensor at the former automatic gear lever)

So I was working on the 5 speed swap on my wagon this weekend. I forgot to put the dustshield on when i put the flywheel on. I don't have the dustshield handy, it's somewhere in the parts car, do I have to remove the flywheel to install it and can I reuse the flywheel bolts after I torqued it? Or should i just slice the cover and slide it around the flywheel?

Yes you have to remove the flywheel to install it and I would not reuse the flywheel bolts once they have been torqued. At least i would not do it. If you want to do it right, then remove the flywheel to install the shield and replace the bolts that have been torqued. Don't feel too bad, I did it too one time. Lucky I had a spare set of flywheel bolts handy.

Bah, the earliest I can get the bolts would be over a week. I was suppose to have this car done today.

I have a 2000 Jetta TDI. I am planning on doing the swap on wednesday.

I have a donor 2002 TDI that is wrecked.

Would it be easier to pull the ECU and cluster from the other car and then install it into mine? I could grab the wiring harness also?

Thanks

Just added spartan's wiring pdf to my howto wiring section for the BEW.

Add me to the list of another happy 5speed conversion person. Now the mods begin

Hi guys, I need some extra information. How much harder or easier is it to swap out the cluster and ecu and wiring harness from the donor car.

Thanks

I am in the midst of this swap on my 2002 Jetta VR6 12v wagon.

However, I am stumped with the cruise control hookup at the Motronic ECM. I've got the black and yellow wire at the TCU with continuity down to the clutch switch, but the yellow with red wire at the TCU has no continuity to the ECM wire of the same color.

And I am not sure how to identify pin #66 on the ECM. I've looked at the various wiring schemes which have been provided in this thread and they have been very helpful - thanks to all that put these together. I have the Bentley manual as well but I cannot find the ECM pin #19 reference - the closest is on page 97-292 where pin 57 shows a ro/ge wire from the cruise control push button.

And on that same diagram, it shows pin 39 as the clutch switch for the cruise control, using a white with red (ws/ro) wire. This seems to conflict with the pin 66 advice for this...

Thanks in advance for any assistance with this!

Chris

EDIT: This post http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3727689&postcount=1840 suggests that Pin 39 is the correct one for use with the 2000 VR6 -and had a white/red wire that was in place. So am going to follow that advice and connect the Clutch switch to this location.

EDIT 2: I can confirm that cruise works with this configuration.

alphaseinor said:

There's probably a Yellow/Blue wire that has continuity...

are you getting voltage at the switch?
does the switch work?
Do you get voltage to the butt connector that leads to the reverse lights?

Click to expand...

Finally got around to tinkering again, 6 months later
Only because I was tracing a water/sunroof leak lol

The switch is working, I think there was a yellow/blue wire with continuity.

I verified all wiring is done exactly per the guide and I keep blowing the #31 fuse.

Any ideas on where I should start?

Update: Got the lights working with the blue/yellow wire. I had the blue/yellow hooked to the black clutch switch. Not sure where I got mixed up in the instructions, but I'm sure that was why I had lights until I pressed the clutch in. Tomorrow I will check everything out and figure out the last bit of wiring for the cruise control.

MKIII to MKIV swap?

Hi all, quick question for anyone who might know....
I'm swapping my 01M P.O.S. automatic for a 5 speed....I found a manual from a '98 TDI. Will it bolt up to my '01 TDI? If it will partially work, can someone give me an idea of where the biggest issues are going to be?
I need to figure out if this is going to be feasible.

Thank you in advance,
Jim

Jim,
IIRC, you want a trans from 2000 to 2003. The early 99.5 was the sloppy cable shift leftover from the A3/B4's. 2000 and up was the standard A4 more precise shifter cable system.

Tony

Tony,
So you're saying the Mk3 manual will bolt up to the Mk4 for a swap from Auto to manual?
Just trying to be sure before I spend the money...not very clear in my searches so far....
Thanks!
Jim

Jim,
No, that's not what I'm saying.

The cable shift mechanism was upgraded, early in the lifecycle of the A4 platform.

Tony

TonyJetta said:

Jim,
No, that's not what I'm saying.

The cable shift mechanism was upgraded, early in the lifecycle of the A4 platform.

Tony

Click to expand...

Tony, Thank you for clarifying.
Jim

Swap in Indianapolis?

I was just wondering if there is anyone in the Indianapolis area that could perform this swap for someone else.

I finished my swap on the '02 VR6 Jetta Wagon today. Drives great! BUT I cannot get the coding change on the engine module to be accepted

HELP! Using most recent licensed VCDS KII-USB and I am entering the coding option for the engine module and changing to 00031 from 00030 (I have ABS and ASR). But the &*(^%*&$^% car will not accept the change even after it click "Do it" and the close the module and cycle the key.

ARRGGGGGHHHH!!!!!!

Anyone else go thru this?

I'm not sure if this has been covered, or not (way to many pages to read), but is it possible to use a transaxle from the UK, given it is from a TDI?

CBRacerX said:

I finished my swap on the '02 VR6 Jetta Wagon today. Drives great! BUT I cannot get the coding change on the engine module to be accepted

HELP! Using most recent licensed VCDS KII-USB and I am entering the coding option for the engine module and changing to 00031 from 00030 (I have ABS and ASR). But the &*(^%*&$^% car will not accept the change even after it click "Do it" and the close the module and cycle the key.

ARRGGGGGHHHH!!!!!!

Anyone else go thru this?

Click to expand...

As soon as you enter the correct number, click save and immediately turn off the key. Close the program. When you reconnect, you should see your changes.

Hello, wanted to post and mention I'm going to be starting the changeover on a 2000 Jetta TDI with an auto that is broken to the point where it revs up high and then bangs into gear. Just bought it used like this with the knowledge I'm going to be doing the changeover to a manual.

I've read every page in this post...only took me about a month. I do have a question on the brake pedal. I found a donor car and took the pedal off. The difficulty is in the rod that the pedal actuates to the booster. It is sitting in a plastic retainer inside the pedal. Now World Impex sells a tool to remove it. I forced it out of the parts car but broke the retainer the rod/ball joint sit in, which is still available from VW. I was actually told its a popular part.

So how is the pedal removed without the tool, properly? I have no idea how the tool is used, looking at a picture of it. Other than that, its only one bolt that holds the pedal in the bracket.

Looking forward to the electrical as well

Ralf W.

If you are doing an auto to manual swap, you don't need to touch the brake pedal. You will only add the clutch pedal setup.

I used the same brake pedal. On one car i cut the brake pedal down so it could accept the pad that is used in the stock manual configurations and my second car i left the brake pedal un touched. I found no drivability issue at all with the larger pedal.

Thanks for the replies. I am aware that the swap can be done with the brake left in place. I thought, like had been mentioned in the original swap post, that the whole thing would look more professional with the new brake pedal in place.

I'm now wondering if I should grind down the pedal like some of you have done and GdB did originally with the Dremel. It might just be easier and have the same aesthetic appeal.

Actually according to jimbote, the brake pedal for the automatics has a plate overlaid on the smaller manual brake pedal that is spot welded in 3 places to the smaller plate. One could simply undo those welds to reveal the smaller manual brake pedal setup.

boertje said:

Actually according to jimbote, the brake pedal for the automatics has a plate overlaid on the smaller manual brake pedal that is spot welded in 3 places to the smaller plate. One could simply undo those welds to reveal the smaller manual brake pedal setup.

Click to expand...

this is true...actually three spot welds on the front and one small weld on the back....done it to at least a dozen auto pedals so far....

Ok, so grinding may be more work than necessary What is the procedure for removing the spot welds? Are they ground off, drilled out..?

Rechtsverdreher said:

Ok, so grinding may be more work than necessary What is the procedure for removing the spot welds? Are they ground off, drilled out..?

Click to expand...

I drill the three spot welds on the front and use a cutoff wheel for the tack weld on the back...never done it in the car but it should not be too difficult....

Thanks Jim, that brings this portion of the conversation full circle though.

When you take the pedal out, how do you remove the pedal from the ball joint of the actuator it moves back and forth? That plastic insert in the pedal holding the ball joint is very tough to get out having broken when I tried it.

Further, the tool sold on World Impex looks very...weird. Can't understand that at all.

Ralf

After driving around with the big pedal for awhile and hiting the brake a few times while clutching, I cut and grinded it off.