The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

That's probably the stock filter, it'll be fine.

97B4TDi said:

Checked my oil and notived the shop that did my oil change way overfilled it. I drained enough to bring it down to the top fill mark.


Than I noticed it has an oil filter that is shorter than I have normally seen/used myself on b4 Passats. Is/will it be alright or do you think I should change the filter to the larger one?

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The filter you probably use is the older larger filter from the 80's diesel vehicles. I think there's a lot of people on here who use those filters too, I know I do, especially the Mahle and Mann versions. It's also allegedly suggested for use on the 1.8T cars, especially longitudinal mounting, where the oil capacity was very low and the engines got sludgy.

The original filter however, was smaller in circumference, and probably a little shorter in length. I used those for a while but no longer. I'd rather have the larger capacity filter.

IDK who did your oil change but it sounds to me like the person who did it didn't know that much about what they were doing. They overfilled your system and used a filter that sounds like it might be wrong. Are you sure that the oil they put in it was what you specified? I'm not sure I would have that kind of confidence.

I might want to take it back and have the work done again. I wouldn't think it was my responsibility to correct the overfill or the wrong filter install, and I would be kind of upset if they used the wrong oil. I'd also keep a sample of the oil so you could have it tested if need be. Undoubtedly they will say it's correct, but who knows.

Steve

They quoted it as Rotella 5w40 on all the paper work provided. So it would be difficult to dispute otherwise... I may redo the oil change myself to ensure the proper oil, fill level and filter...

I know it shouldn’t be my responsibility to fix/resolve but the trust is dissolving...

97B4TDi said:

They quoted it as Rotella 5w40 on all the paper work provided. So it would be difficult to dispute otherwise... I may redo the oil change myself to ensure the proper oil, fill level and filter...

I know it shouldn’t be my responsibility to fix/resolve but the trust is dissolving...

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If they list it as 5w40 Rotella and your confident it's synthetic I'd probably leave it alone.

Without seeing the filter I can't really say whether it's correct or not but as Abacus said it's probably the OE filter for the AHU/1Z, which is what I suggested as well.

If the filter worries you then you could change that out but I wouldn't probably do it if I was confident the oil was correct. At the very least you could run it for 2500-5000 miles.

Steve

With how particular I am about maintinence on the car, I will most likely end up changing it within the next 500-1000 miles.

I’m with you; the larger capacity filter is nice and I’ll have the peace of mind to go 3-5000 miles before the next change.

Unless the filter is a tiny one from an ABA (yes, it will screw on), I wouldn't worry about it. I used to use the larger "sludge fighter" filter but found it to be too much of a pain to remove. Even harder on an A3.

3-5,000 miles? The change interval is 10,000.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

Unless the filter is a tiny one from an ABA (yes, it will screw on), I wouldn't worry about it. I used to use the larger "sludge fighter" filter but found it to be too much of a pain to remove. Even harder on an A3.

3-5,000 miles? The change interval is 10,000.

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No it’s not tiny; it appears to be the same diameter as the larger one I’ve used in the past, it is just shorter.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

Unless the filter is a tiny one from an ABA (yes, it will screw on), I wouldn't worry about it. I used to use the larger "sludge fighter" filter but found it to be too much of a pain to remove. Even harder on an A3.

3-5,000 miles? The change interval is 10,000.

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It is tight getting it in, especially if you pre-fill it at least 75% before installing. I also have to move the PS hard line to get it in.

While I know the change interval of 10k is common around here I'm known for coming up short on that as well. It's not that I like to waste the money but I get uncomfortable with it when I get to around 8k miles.

97B4TDi said:

No it’s not tiny; it appears to be the same diameter as the larger one I’ve used in the past, it is just shorter.

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That doesn't sound like either of the filters we know to be correct.

Steve

I checked the part number on the filter: It is an STP 3569 which is listed as an option for this engine on autozone.com

I usually use the Mobil 1 M1-301; which is about 3/4” longer based on their specified heights.

It is tight getting the taller filter in however I don’t need to move any lines to do so, just “snake” it up and in there

I let mine go last night...and emptiness soon followed...

but I need a 4x4 wagon/suv type vehicle as in this phase of life since long, non-motorcycle road trips for work are done and beach excursions will hopefully increase dramatically.

hope it went to a good home. I'll point the new owner here. it's his first TDI. young, yet enthusiastic new owner.

Sounds like you may have retired Odie.

I do hope your vehicle owner joins up here. I'm encouraged to hear about new enthusiastic owners because there's been so much taint from the emissions scandal and the downstream consequences of the faux outrage etc. I personally can't stand to even go look at what's posted up in the scandal forum. I live for the day that forum is deleted.

Anyway, if you are venturing into retirement I do wish you all the best!

Steve

New CCV valve, breather tube, and grommet arrived in the mail today. To do: Replace the cracked breather tube, wrap some Teflon on the new Vaico CCV puck and install with a new grommet in the valve cover. Hopefully the annoying oil leaks on the valve cover that also mist the sound deadening, and leak down the block from the cracked tube are fixed for a few. What I did to my B4 today were some turbo pulls in 2nd and 3rd while using the excuse of logging 011 to troubleshoot an intermittent 0075 code. Too much fun. I need to find a bigger hill I guess.

0die, check out this Transylvania shakedown. Those LT’s are pretty cool!
https://youtu.be/1YCUyJJN2Dg

Steve Addy said:

Sounds like you may have retired Odie.

I do hope your vehicle owner joins up here. I'm encouraged to hear about new enthusiastic owners because there's been so much taint from the emissions scandal and the downstream consequences of the faux outrage etc. I personally can't stand to even go look at what's posted up in the scandal forum. I live for the day that forum is deleted.

Anyway, if you are venturing into retirement I do wish you all the best!

Steve

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just retired from the nat guard...was making 1500mi trips every month for the last 15 years...thus the collection of assorted old diesels...now it just my regular local job and weekends free to roam the beach or backwoods...would still rather do both in a small diesel 4x4...i should have kept my old 85 ram pickup/Mitsubishi mighty max 4x4 with the turbo diesel...

ToddA1 said:

Removed the cargo area plastic on the left side to revisit my leak. One mount post pulled out of the trim, on the D pillar plastic, which pissed me off. I can’t get it back in cleanly and I’m not sure if I have a spare...

Couldn’t find the leak using the baby powder method, so I started hosing it down. The leak was coming from above the headliner, and ended up being an incredibly small area the seam sealer didn’t get. After I pulled the headliner down some, I got the air hose in there and saw the breach. Blobbed on some more seam sealer, and the car sits.... I’ll let it set up for a while and retest.

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That was over a month ago and it didn’t cure the leak. I was having a difficult time recreating the leak with the hose. Long drenching rains always let water in.

I pulled the quarter glass to reseal it. The butyl was a nightmare to clean off, so I went looking for a friendlier method. Best I could find locally, was .375” round backer rod. It’s closed cell, so I had high hopes. Glued it on with black weatherstrip adhesive and crossed my fingers. The next rain, I thought I had it, then later in the day, I saw water in the tray.

Ordered .375” round EPDM weatherstripping, pulled and resealed the window, again. With the next rain, water was still coming in... this ruled the window out and I was confident the seam at the roof wasn’t to blame... I had butyl packed in everywhere.

Started digging deeper.... I found the seam sealer breach in the tailgate hinge pocket. I remember hosing these down and I couldn’t get water to enter the cabin. Cleaned out both pockets and painted on the seam sealer.




I had the trim plates taped up and tried to gently close the tailgate, while the seam sealer was curing. Both cracked at the top... oh well, it’s a clean break that closes, so it’s not noticeable. Yanked them, removed the open cell foam behind them, and sprayed them. I forgot to paint the round fasteners...

I’m guessing the foam was more vibration control, but it may have been providing enough of a gasket to hold the leak at bay, for a while. I’ll probably use some body tape, when the trim plates get installed.




This passed the test of 3 soaking storms, so I’m claiming success for this leak, but when it rains, it pours....

I pulled out of a parking spot at work, and heard a waterfall, behind my head. Pulled down the headliner a bit to take a peek, and I see the sunroof drain connection is wet. Water was pooling on the headliner board and dumped... this was a new one.

Deciding if snaking it from the sunroof to the back, or if blowing air from the back to the front, would be better.

I’ll soon be reinstalling the roof trim, roof rail and the interior panels.

-Todd

Finally was able to track down an elusive coolant leak. the coolant pipe was leaking through the rot on it's underside. I could see that it was rusty but figured, it's only 4 years old, it's solid. Think again. The new ones lack the IP plug bracket but fortunately I have a couple new ones on the shelf I picked up before they went NLA. Installed it and no more leak. Cut the bracket from the old pipe and saved it to be welded on a new one next time around.

Started the timing belt change, got half way ran out of daylight and temps were dropping so I called it a day. It was low 30s when I started and tomorrow looks no better, the joys of working outside.

Quick question:

I’d like to remove my instrument cluster to repair the pesky cold weather issue; I read through the MFA conversion write up and if I have this right I shouldn’t need to remove the airbag, steering wheel, etc since I’m not doing any of the conversion wiring, right?

Also is the cap difficult to replace/solder myself?

Thanks

Steering wheel and ab don’t need to be removed.

Iirc, the caps are behind a stepper motor or something else. I paid to have mine fixed, after looking at it.

-Todd

I do find it easier to do with the wheel and airbag removed though

97B4TDi said:

Quick question:

I’d like to remove my instrument cluster to repair the pesky cold weather issue; I read through the MFA conversion write up and if I have this right I shouldn’t need to remove the airbag, steering wheel, etc since I’m not doing any of the conversion wiring, right?

Also is the cap difficult to replace/solder myself?

Thanks

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As others have said you don't need to remove the steering wheel / air bag unless you really want to.

The cluster surround will come out if you go to the right once you get it detached. The gap between the dash and steering wheel is just enough to squeeze it through. The same goes for the cluster, it will fit coming out to the right.

I replaced the caps on my cluster and it wasn't all that difficult but there is a space constraint and you have to be careful. Good luck!

And Todd, I had cracks in the hinge pockets too. I had to replace seam sealer in those areas too although I was never really certain that they were contributing to the leak. In the end it was just good to get those off the list of culprits.

Steve

Another drenching rain today and I’m thinking I fixed the sunroof leak. I was able to blow air through the drain hose, but I blasted it it with compressed air, to be sure. I never really open the roof, so I wasn’t expecting a clog.

Thinking a loose connection at the barb was the cause, so it was hose clamped.

-Todd

I’ve removed dozens of clusters and never touched the steering wheel or the airbag.

Installed the roof trim and rail. Needed to hit some areas of the trim with a 36 Roloc, where the seam sealer was making it stand proud.

Slipped cardboard between the condenser coil and radiator, then took it to the car wash. I didn’t install the interior trim, waiting for another rainstorm to verify the sunroof leak is fixed, but it’s nice to see the car looking as it should. It’s been too long....




A headlight blew out the other night, so that needs to be addressed. Of course it’s on the driver side, making it more difficult... need to look for a H1.

-Todd

That car looks great. Makes me want to drag out my Corrado steelies!

Replaced the IP head seal o-ring.... I was nervious about letting pump head out to far and innards falling out... Got it replaced and no more leak.....

Replaced the trio-y coolant hoses on front of engine.... What a bugger to change.....

Replaced coolant thermostat.... car now reaches operating temp, I wonder how many 1000's of miles it has been running cold... Ive only got 1000 miles on car since purchase...

IndigoBlueWagon said:

That car looks great. Makes me want to drag out my Corrado steelies!

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Thanks, for steel wheels, they look decent, but they’re definitely heavy. I’m not shy about taking the car to the body shop to get paint fixed, bodywork after rust repair, etc. I want to keep the car on the road, as long as I can.

Forgot that I painted the fastener caps for the hinge pocket covers and they got reinstalled. Both B4 filler neck boots, were removed and all the road crud was hosed out. Pulled out the fender foam on the sedan.

borntofli said:

Replaced the IP head seal o-ring.... I was nervious about letting pump head out to far and innards falling out... Got it replaced and no more leak.....

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I did it that way once and the head definitely gets wobbly. I didn’t want to spend too much time on the Rotbox, so I tried the shortcut.

I remember the IDI guys would rotate the IP to TDC, then remove the rear plug where the dial indicator would thread in, and install a long bolt. The bolt would get threaded in, as the head bolts were loosened. This keeps pressure on the shim, keeping it from dropping out.

I’m used to removing the entire pump and doing a full reseal, but I’ll need to remember the bolt trick, if there’s a next time.

-Todd

Well I was driving up north yesterday morning and I clipped a deer... Me and my girlfriend are ok as well as the Passat. I was able to scrub off enough speed no major damage was done but now I am missing my front grille and the metal trim band which goes below the grille is also pretty bent but I believe I can bend it back into shape.

Do any of you happen to be parting any Passats out?

If so would you also have a horn and/or a grille?

Thank you very much.

97B4TDi said:

Well I was driving up north yesterday morning and I clipped a deer... Me and my girlfriend are ok as well as the Passat. I was able to scrub off enough speed no major damage was done but now I am missing my front grille and the metal trim band which goes below the grille is also pretty bent but I believe I can bend it back into shape.

Do any of you happen to be parting any Passats out?

If so would you also have a horn and/or a grille?

Thank you very much.

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I have a friend in Ames who last I knew had some B4 bits hanging around. Not sure what he has but I will ask.

Steve

Steve Addy said:

I have a friend in Ames who last I knew had some B4 bits hanging around. Not sure what he has but I will ask.

Steve

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Thanks Steve