bhodgkiss
Veteran Member
Hi all,
Thinking about a bombproof ASV engine build with 11mm pump, R520’s etc etc for about 220bhp (at crank)
Fancy sticking with a VE engine as opposed to PD J
Want the bottom end to be up for it so thinking of swapping in PD pistons and rods, which will also drop the compression ratio slightly, which is an added bonus.
So... are the PD100/PD130/PD150 rods and pistons all different in terms of strength please?
Also, i’ve not worked on the bottom end of a car before.... so.....
I don’t really want to remove the block and so if I simply take out the rods and pistons and swap in used PD versions, can i keep my original piston rings, in principle? As they will already be bedded into the bores nicely (hopefully, i can check for bore wear and marking first of course)
Or as standard practice should the bores be honed, new rings put in, and then bedded in with special oil over a short distance? Sounds like a lot more work than simply dropping in uprated used pd pistons and rods.
Do the piston rings actually locate in the groove of the pistons (radially), so that if i put different pistons in, the ring to bore gap may change? Or do the rings effectively float radially anyway so this isn’t an issue?
(I guess it may be easier just to swap to a good condition pd150 ARL bottom end, and ASV top end? Does much need doing to get this to work please?)
If the bottom end is uprated, and head overhauled, the engine should be fine for 220bhp (at crank)? Or should the standard ASV pistons and rods be up for the job?
Then it just needs mapping properly to protect the 5 speed box J
Aside, did the ASV engines come with 7mm valve stems (as opposed to 8mm)?
Any help is appreciated as always.
Thinking about a bombproof ASV engine build with 11mm pump, R520’s etc etc for about 220bhp (at crank)
Fancy sticking with a VE engine as opposed to PD J
Want the bottom end to be up for it so thinking of swapping in PD pistons and rods, which will also drop the compression ratio slightly, which is an added bonus.
So... are the PD100/PD130/PD150 rods and pistons all different in terms of strength please?
Also, i’ve not worked on the bottom end of a car before.... so.....
I don’t really want to remove the block and so if I simply take out the rods and pistons and swap in used PD versions, can i keep my original piston rings, in principle? As they will already be bedded into the bores nicely (hopefully, i can check for bore wear and marking first of course)
Or as standard practice should the bores be honed, new rings put in, and then bedded in with special oil over a short distance? Sounds like a lot more work than simply dropping in uprated used pd pistons and rods.
Do the piston rings actually locate in the groove of the pistons (radially), so that if i put different pistons in, the ring to bore gap may change? Or do the rings effectively float radially anyway so this isn’t an issue?
(I guess it may be easier just to swap to a good condition pd150 ARL bottom end, and ASV top end? Does much need doing to get this to work please?)
If the bottom end is uprated, and head overhauled, the engine should be fine for 220bhp (at crank)? Or should the standard ASV pistons and rods be up for the job?
Then it just needs mapping properly to protect the 5 speed box J
Aside, did the ASV engines come with 7mm valve stems (as opposed to 8mm)?
Any help is appreciated as always.