can fitting a shim to solve smf issues on 02m box?

Mongler98

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98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
make the SMF a bit more user friendly?
like what? give it more personality? JK
 

Mongler98

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98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
When was the last time you changed the trans oil with the Proper stuff?
 

Mongler98

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98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
How many miles are you putting on the car you have to change the trans fluid 2 times a year? thats WAY to much, its not going to hurt it but thats just $$$ down the drain. Trans fluid is usually 75-150K depending on the car. MAKE SURE that you are using the correct line of fluid. there are like 10 different types of trans fluid all in the same weight range. you need to know that some trans have brass syncros and some have Kevlar clutches, it all depends on what you have. What code is your O2M? I think that this is probably your issue. O2M's and just about all transmissions that are in healthy shape dont have your issue. #1 cause for trans failure is burnt out fluid or too much moisture in the fluid. Not sure if thats your problem as you changes it 10x more frequently than normal. How many miles is on the trans?
 

adjat84th

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Try adjusting the cables?
The SMF is just going to make noise, period. Even with a "silent" clutch and Fluidampr mine still makes noise.
 

Kevinski4

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I think he is talking about adding a shim to the throwout bearing/slave cylinder because his clutch may not be fully disengaging.
 

gmo

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modded pd130 asz vw bora .. 04
How many miles are you putting on the car you have to change the trans fluid 2 times a year? thats WAY to much, its not going to hurt it but thats just $$$ down the drain. Trans fluid is usually 75-150K depending on the car. MAKE SURE that you are using the correct line of fluid. there are like 10 different types of trans fluid all in the same weight range. you need to know that some trans have brass syncros and some have Kevlar clutches, it all depends on what you have. What code is your O2M? I think that this is probably your issue. O2M's and just about all transmissions that are in healthy shape dont have your issue. #1 cause for trans failure is burnt out fluid or too much moisture in the fluid. Not sure if thats your problem as you changes it 10x more frequently than normal. How many miles is on the trans?
this trans has about 120k on i get mates rates at garage (MY BRO OWNS IT) and one of my best mate it tech for vw pullmans and get full service every 6 months as i drive my cars hard , all fluids filters bushes ect..

check link mate , i think sussed it !

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...tch-disengagement-issues-mainshaft-axial-play

doing some research lead me to this seems well explained in link,

"problem solved with a shim and bearing cover costing 14 quid in total and half an hour of time. Basically a gearbox specialist told me the main shaft bearing spring clip eats into the Bell housing causing play. I had almost an 16th of an inch eaten away. Put the shim on and its like new. No drag, no difficulty from reverse to 1st or crunchy changes from 1st to 2nd. Saved 700 quid to get it refurbed. Just follow the link below and use the part numbers for shaft play and jobs a gooden" .. source .. briskoda.
 

[486]

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Like this?

http://nothingleavesstock.com/online-store/#ecwid:category=2903030&mode=product&product=13912883

I put one in my Jetta (02M), Have the same transmission and clutch in my TT without the shim - I can't tell any difference between the two.

Comes with rave reviews for whatever that's worth.
that makes no sense
Hydraulic TO bearing is self adjusting. Run it out of travel and it blows out.

I guess I should get in the business of making shims to go atop the clutch pedal pad. :p
 

gmo

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modded pd130 asz vw bora .. 04
that makes no sense
Hydraulic TO bearing is self adjusting. Run it out of travel and it blows out.
I guess I should get in the business of making shims to go atop the clutch pedal pad. :p
so why are many reporting it solves the issues then mate unless it only works on car in the uk.. i dont know ,
 
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Mongler98

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Well there are lots of people who have reported it doing NOTHING at all. Then there are people who also say that they can feel the extra power now once they have installed a co9ld air intake, when its been proven to death in dyno's that cold air filters are junk and rob HP.
Snake oil. Maybe it works on some Trans. I would say do it and stop asking. It’s cheap enough, isn’t going to hurt anything. Report back with results as I’m a sceptic as well
 

gmo

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modded pd130 asz vw bora .. 04
Well there are lots of people who have reported it doing NOTHING at all. Then there are people who also say that they can feel the extra power now once they have installed a co9ld air intake, when its been proven to death in dyno's that cold air filters are junk and rob HP.
Snake oil. Maybe it works on some Trans. I would say do it and stop asking. It’s cheap enough, isn’t going to hurt anything. Report back with results as I’m a sceptic as well

i intend to mate .ive spoke to several folk in person with the helix smf set ups on pds with 02m boxs and it worked a treat. still noisy as hell but no sticking in gears. ive also seen dozens of reports online it works for the helix smf kit. ive researched the hell out it as after paying a grand for clutch i was not happy the way if behaved in slow traffic and this is the only method ive come across that solves it. have you read the thread i link in the post?
 
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[486]

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so why are many reporting it solves the issues then mate unless it only works on car in the uk.. i dont know ,
perhaps the geometry of mentioned flywheel kits is completely wrong, placing the release point well out of the range of proper to bearing travel
 

gmo

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modded pd130 asz vw bora .. 04
perhaps the geometry of mentioned flywheel kits is completely wrong, placing the release point well out of the range of proper to bearing travel
this is pretty much what ive read mate something to do with reliese bearing to, the helix kit seem to be notorious for it
. if im hammering the car , hard launch ect it fine and dream to drive fast when it works i cant fault it but the sticking of gears in town traffic pisses me off..
if it does stick i have to redip the clutch and blip the throttle or double the clucth and it sorts its self out. seriously gets on my nerves when stuck in traffic jam lol

il keep you posted how it goes, did you read btw link mate . seem,s to make sense
 

turbovan+tdi

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that makes no sense
Hydraulic TO bearing is self adjusting. Run it out of travel and it blows out.
I guess I should get in the business of making shims to go atop the clutch pedal pad. :p
I would agree BUT some cars, they are under engineered, so due to tolerances, VW might have made the 6 speed throwout bearing travel borderline, so some will push the clutch enough to work, while other cars won't. Seems like this is the case this time.
 

[486]

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I would agree BUT some cars, they are under engineered, so due to tolerances, VW might have made the 6 speed throwout bearing travel borderline, so some will push the clutch enough to work, while other cars won't. Seems like this is the case this time.
know how the TO bearing's spring loaded against the PP fingers? it's self adjusting

meaning you push your clutch pedal and get your 5 CCs or whatever of brake fluid and the TO bearing moves the PP fingers X distance, no matter where it's at in its travel.

If somehow it runs out of travel it pushes the retaining ring off the end of the plastic center tube and likely starts leaking.
 

majesty78

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I have made the same experience with using an aftermarket SMF clutch, in my case a SPEC stage 3 which would start creeping after a few days and forced me to shut the engine off to get out of gear or to put 1st gear in.

I have then added the OE shim on the wheels side of the transmission which minimized the axial play in the main shaft. Since then it drove fine for a few month, until the point was reached where the clutch wear was big enough to cause the same problems.

I think this is a basic design failure of some aftermarket clutches which need to much travel to fully disengage the clutch, leading to creeping and sticking in gears.

I swapped to a Sachs Race then and had no more problems ever since......
 

Mongler98

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98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
So what im reading here and other threads is that this shim is useless and that its all about clutch wear and that using a better clutch fixes this. The shim is a band-aid for a much larger issue.
 

turbovan+tdi

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know how the TO bearing's spring loaded against the PP fingers? it's self adjusting
meaning you push your clutch pedal and get your 5 CCs or whatever of brake fluid and the TO bearing moves the PP fingers X distance, no matter where it's at in its travel.
If somehow it runs out of travel it pushes the retaining ring off the end of the plastic center tube and likely starts leaking.
I know exactly how it works. Ok, let me try this again, my same explanation as before but maybe some clutch's need more travel, hence the reason why the shim fix's it. Chased a few OE cars for GM back in the day for the same problem. Better? ;)
 

[486]

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I know exactly how it works. Ok, let me try this again, my same explanation as before but maybe some clutch's need more travel, hence the reason why the shim fix's it. Chased a few OE cars for GM back in the day for the same problem. Better? ;)
car with shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
car without shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid

starting position of TO bearing is the same in both cases, pushed up against PP fingers with spring tension
 

CNGVW

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car with shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
car without shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
starting position of TO bearing is the same in both cases, pushed up against PP fingers with spring tension
Thank you 486 right on.
He would do better if he replace the fork and the bottom pivot with new OEM parts
 

adjat84th

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'01 Jetta TDI/'15 Golf TDI
I have made the same experience with using an aftermarket SMF clutch, in my case a SPEC stage 3 which would start creeping after a few days and forced me to shut the engine off to get out of gear or to put 1st gear in.

I have then added the OE shim on the wheels side of the transmission which minimized the axial play in the main shaft. Since then it drove fine for a few month, until the point was reached where the clutch wear was big enough to cause the same problems.

I think this is a basic design failure of some aftermarket clutches which need to much travel to fully disengage the clutch, leading to creeping and sticking in gears.

I swapped to a Sachs Race then and had no more problems ever since......
This happens a little with my 02Q DC stage 3 with SMF. Noticed as the temperature dips below freezing, the car does not want to come out of gear until I slow down or blip the accelerator pedal. Drives perfectly fine above that temp though. Now if only the thing would quiet down consistently at idle!
 

turbovan+tdi

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car with shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
car without shim, TO bearing moves 4mm from 5cc of fluid
starting position of TO bearing is the same in both cases, pushed up against PP fingers with spring tension
It moves the same but its closer to the PP. ;)
 
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