HELP BLOWER MOTOR NOT Working

fbeninati

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Location
toronto
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
hi there,

My blower motor for my heating and cooling isn't working, i checked the fuses, plugged in an OBD II reader and no codes were found. I dont know where to go from here. I just had the resistor replaced like 2 weeks ago so I think it might be the actual motor. Does anyone have any suggestions or know how to access it. all i know is that its on the passenger side behind the glove box.
 

dalchri

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Location
Muncy, PA
TDI
99 Beetle
I think the fan switch is known to break on the beetle. That is what happened to mine. All I had to do was JB weld the pieces back together.

I don't know if the same is true for the golf/jetta.
 

Vince Waldon

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Location
Edmonton AB Canada
TDI
2001 ALH Jetta, 2003 ALH Wagon, 2005 BEW Wagon
The ECU does not monitor the heater fan system so there will be no codes to help you here... gotta do it old school.

It's either:

- the fuse
- the resistor
- the motor
- the switch
- the wiring in between those parts.

You say you've checked the fuse and replaced the resistor. Wiring rarely breaks, so the next logical step is to access the fan motor per instructions in the Bentley service manual and use a multimeter to check for power at the fan motor connector when the switch is on.

No power...most likely bad switch, assuming you checked the right fuses etc. :)

If there is power, pull the connector off the motor and use your multimeter to check the motor for continuity. No continuity = bad fan motor.

As an aside, a fan motor with bearings on the way out draws extra current and often causes the resistor to overheat, so if you replaced the resistor because it popped my money's on a worn fan. :)
 

jettawreck

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Location
Northern Minnesota-55744
TDI
2001 Jetta and 2003 Jetta
Good advice from Vince. Check out the steps outlined. I went thru this deal this spring. The resistor went, so I replaced it and then the resistor went again and then the blower motor. So the motor was going and causing the resistor to fail. Make sure the cabin filter is clean and no obstructions to the blower motor.
Its a pretty easy fix and they're about $65.
 

fbeninati

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Location
toronto
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
The ECU does not monitor the heater fan system so there will be no codes to help you here... gotta do it old school.

It's either:

- the fuse
- the resistor
- the motor
- the switch
- the wiring in between those parts.

You say you've checked the fuse and replaced the resistor. Wiring rarely breaks, so the next logical step is to access the fan motor per instructions in the Bentley service manual and use a multimeter to check for power at the fan motor connector when the switch is on.

No power...most likely bad switch, assuming you checked the right fuses etc. :)

If there is power, pull the connector off the motor and use your multimeter to check the motor for continuity. No continuity = bad fan motor.

As an aside, a fan motor with bearings on the way out draws extra current and often causes the resistor to overheat, so if you replaced the resistor because it popped my money's on a worn fan. :)

Hi there vince,

I checked all my fuses under the hood and none are blown, also i tested the motor and it works just fine. i put it to a 12v battery and it turned on just fine. Im going attempt to check the motor connector for power and the swtiches right now.
 

jettawreck

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Location
Northern Minnesota-55744
TDI
2001 Jetta and 2003 Jetta
The blower motor resistor pack has a thermal fuse which can blow. It can be replaced (soldered in) with a part from Radio Shack for about $1.79. (search resitor pack) Usually if its the thermal fuse the blower fan will still work on switch position "4"/high. If you get nothing at any setting, its most likely the switch or a wire/connector issue.
 

fbeninati

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Location
toronto
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
ok so i went all out and removed the glove compartment and stereo so i can have full access to all the wiring. I attempted to test the blower connecters

first I tried to test the blower connected right from the blower, I put a multi meter to it and had absolutely no reading whatsoever. First i tried off the red wire and the black to the frame but had no success and tried every other possible combination just in case

second I tested the blower motor resistor connector with the multi meter using the same method as mentione above, needless to say no reading came up.

Third i removed the heater switch cluster and I tested all the connectors, The two connectors connecting to the rear defog and seat warmers did get a reading and they are still working fine, however when i tested the connector that connected from the switches to control the temp, blower motor speed and position I did not get a voltage reading at all.

this leads me to believe that there must be a module that might not be getting power, If anyone has had this problem and managed to fix it or if you have any suggestions please let me know i only have 3 more days off the get this fixed.

Also im trying to find a wiring diagram online if anyone has one they could share with me it would be greatly appreciated
 

Vince Waldon

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Location
Edmonton AB Canada
TDI
2001 ALH Jetta, 2003 ALH Wagon, 2005 BEW Wagon
Just to be clear, when you say "no reading" are you measuring voltage? Resistance? Did the blower motor have continuity?
 

fbeninati

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Location
toronto
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI
Just to be clear, when you say "no reading" are you measuring voltage? Resistance? Did the blower motor have continuity?

sorry about that, when i meant "Reading" i meant nothing was showing on my digital voltmeter while testing voltage. How can i check if the motor has continuity? i attached it to a 12V battery and it worked was that sufficient enough?
 

Vince Waldon

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Location
Edmonton AB Canada
TDI
2001 ALH Jetta, 2003 ALH Wagon, 2005 BEW Wagon
Yup that's fine...hooking the fan up to 12V volts works too.

The other way would be to set your multimeter on "ohms" or "resistance" and look for a couple ohms of resistance accross the motor's terminals.
 

d0nalba1n

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2009
Location
Newnan, Ga
TDI
1999 VW Beetle 1.9L Stock
Let me know what you found out? I just put my beetle back together and didnt have multimeter. Fan was working fine with a squeal and then DEAD. Ordered new fan and new resistor pack and just put them in, checked fuse, and reassembled. Turned on fan and NADA! Nothing. I replaced the whole AC control switch assembly in this bug once.(WHAT FUN) Any way to test the switch, like bypassing it, to see if that is the problem? Otherwise I guess I get to disassemble the whole dash again and start with a multimeter....
 

Joe_Meehan

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Location
Ohio USA
TDI
NB TDI, 2002.5, Silver
hi there,

.. checked the fuses, plugged in an OBD II reader and no codes were found. I dont know where to go from here....
Never rule out a bad ground. It certainly is not always the problem, but the grounding circuit is every bit as important as the positive (negative in some cars like my old Sunbeam Imp). It fails less often, but it can fail.

Good Luck
 

rpav

New member
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Location
Cali
TDI
Audi A4
Having similar issues on my 98 audi a4... current testing and analysis:

The heater/ac blower does not come on. Can hear AC compressor kick on, but just no blower fan. The electronic display for fan just goes up to full then back down.
Checked fuse, okay; checked volts at wiring leads have full 12volts.

Pulled fan/blower unit and placed 12volt battery directly to it and got it to work; but the terminals i used were the opposite that it would receive from being attached to the wiring connector (meaning the positive vs negative).
So i'm thinking when i place the separate battery positive on the blower's negative (which normally receives the brownish yellow wire ) it works!
It might be working in reverse when jumped like this.
However, when connected the other way Pos vs neg no action.

I don't have the solar sunroof feature, so its not the sunroof relay.
I've ordered a used blower and resistor to just see if its the blower motor.

Thanks, Bob
 

deadend9009

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2008
Location
Val-David, Qc
TDI
'03 Wagon
I thought my blower was dead too but my filter was filthy. I wouldn't rule out something this simple if you have not checked it.
 

CnCBuss

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 12, 2005
Location
west of Montreal, Canada
TDI
silver '00 A4 TDI gls
I'M CURRENTLY EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEM....sorry bout the CAPS LOK.

I too have no fan blower whatsoever. I'm gonna need it quite soon since cold, damp weather is already starting to occur here in the Montreal region.
So I've checked the fuses (all good) took the dash apart, tested the fan with spare 12v battery (turns well) and concluded that it must be the resistor. So I bought one today ($45) and replaced the sucker. To my utter dismay, still no blower fan with a new resistor pack in place.
I will go back and see if I have the connector in the proper pos/neg configuration as a final test. If that doesn't solve the issue, I must conclude that one of the switches is faulty. Has anyone ever heard of the switch cluster (thermostat, fan speed switch & blower orientation) needing replacement?
For crying out loud. I hope this car stops costing me so much money soon.... I thought the TDI was supposed to be a long-lasting car.

One side note. This problem started when I had a garage do some maintenance, including changing the car battery. Could they have fried the switch or some related component while plugging the new battery?
 
Last edited:

jettawreck

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Location
Northern Minnesota-55744
TDI
2001 Jetta and 2003 Jetta
I'M CURRENTLY EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEM....sorry bout the CAPS LOK.

I too have no fan blower whatsoever. I'm gonna need it quite soon since cold, damp weather is already starting to occur here in the Montreal region.
So I've checked the fuses (all good) took the dash apart, tested the fan with spare 12v battery (turns well) and concluded that it must be the resistor. So I bought one today ($45) and replaced the sucker. To my utter dismay, still no blower fan with a new resistor pack in place.
I will go back and see if I have the connector in the proper pos/neg configuration as a final test. If that doesn't solve the issue, I must conclude that one of the switches is faulty. Has anyone ever heard of the switch cluster (thermostat, fan speed switch & blower orientation) needing replacement?
For crying out loud. I hope this car stops costing me so much money soon.... I thought the TDI was supposed to be a long-lasting car.

One side note. This problem started when I had a garage do some maintenance, including changing the car battery. Could they have fried the switch or some related component while plugging the new battery?

If you had no fan on any speed it probably wasn't the resistor. Usually if its the resistor, you have fan at high speed only. That sounds like a failed switch, since the fan worked directly off another battery when you tested it. Save your old resistor, its probably OK.
 

TDIGAZ

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2008
Location
Eastern Ontario, Canada
TDI
Current: 2003 Jetta GLS Grey 5 spd. Previous: 2003 Jetta GLS Silver 5 spd (lost in a collision)
Just started to experience exactly the same situation on my 03 Jetta, blower fan only operates when speed switch on 4. I removed the "resistor pack" assembly and did a few resistance checks across the different pins. My readings seemed normal, so I checked for continuity across the thermal fuse on the resistor pack and found the fuse to be blown.
Did some more online digging and found a good write-up on another VW site, it's an EOS site but the info still applies to our MKIV's.
http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4951
I "jumpered" across my blown thermal fuse and plugged the resistor pack back in my Jetta to test. Blower now works correctly on all four speeds. I removed the jumper (would not recommend anyone leave this fuse jumpered... read the EOS post, that's a lot of amps!!)
I am going to source a replacement thermal fuse and replace. Much cheaper than an entire resistor pack.
Also if you don't mind a quirky British fellow (not me), you may find this video informative.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GutI-3y9bfs
 

jettawreck

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Location
Northern Minnesota-55744
TDI
2001 Jetta and 2003 Jetta
Just started to experience exactly the same situation on my 03 Jetta, blower fan only operates when speed switch on 4. I removed the "resistor pack" assembly and did a few resistance checks across the different pins. My readings seemed normal, so I checked for continuity across the thermal fuse on the resistor pack and found the fuse to be blown.
Did some more online digging and found a good write-up on another VW site, it's an EOS site but the info still applies to our MKIV's.
http://www.vweosclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4951
I "jumpered" across my blown thermal fuse and plugged the resistor pack back in my Jetta to test. Blower now works correctly on all four speeds. I removed the jumper (would not recommend anyone leave this fuse jumpered... read the EOS post, that's a lot of amps!!)
I am going to source a replacement thermal fuse and replace. Much cheaper than an entire resistor pack.
Also if you don't mind a quirky British fellow (not me), you may find this video informative.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GutI-3y9bfs
The resitor fuses were about $1.75 at Radio Shack, but you may end up finding, as I did, there is/was a reason for the fuse blowing. After replacing the fuse twice the blower motot went poof. It was pulling too much power thru the fuse and burning it out. The fuse replacement is worth a try (or two), but there may be deeper reason for the failure.
 

CnCBuss

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 12, 2005
Location
west of Montreal, Canada
TDI
silver '00 A4 TDI gls
My problem has finally been resolved. In my case, it was the speed control switch. At least I have a new resistor pack now. I'll be able to sell the used resistor pack to the crowd here if anybody's interested. If not, it'll go to Ebay.
 

TdiRN

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Location
FL
TDI
2002 VW Jetta, 5 speed, 400k milesish
Ok I am having a similar issue. Thought it was resister pack as it ohm'd out bad. Replaced that...still having issue. When I hook the blower fan up to a battery it runs fine. But when I hook it up to car it makes a strange noise and barely turns. If i knock on the back of the fan it seems speed up a little.

Anybody have any ideas? Its too damn hot here not to have AC.
 

eddieleephd

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2012
Location
Battle Ground, Wa
TDI
2002 jetta Wagon
Ok I am having a similar issue. Thought it was resister pack as it ohm'd out bad. Replaced that...still having issue. When I hook the blower fan up to a battery it runs fine. But when I hook it up to car it makes a strange noise and barely turns. If i knock on the back of the fan it seems speed up a little.

Anybody have any ideas? Its too damn hot here not to have AC.
The preferred method of addressing a present issue is to begin your own thread and link to the ancient post rather than bringing it back from the dead... Please
Wiring and switch are most likely culprits.
Sent from my Armor_2 using Tapatalk
 

TdiRN

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2015
Location
FL
TDI
2002 VW Jetta, 5 speed, 400k milesish
Turns out it was the fan motor! $26 bucks later and we have blowing cold air!!
 

Frontporch

New member
Joined
Mar 5, 2021
Location
San Antonio Texas
TDI
2010 Tiguan 2.0
Sorry, not sorry to resurrect this thread. All relevant information so far. I'm having the same trouble with my Tiguan but I am also having no power to my auxiliary plugs when key is on, but some power when off. Not sure if it's a separate problem of the same. Van works with separate battery. Took dashboard switch off, opened it up, cleaned up the contacts and switches work from 0-4 but still no power to fan. Is there a sensor somewhere that kills the power? I used to be able to turn on the fan, then it would cut off after a bit, then I could flip it off and on again and It seems to coordinate with intake door to allow vent air through even when fan not working. So I would get passive air at highway speed but no fan.
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
.................snip.................................. but I am also having no power to my auxiliary plugs when key is on, but some power when off. Not sure if it's a separate problem of the same. Van works with separate battery. .................snip..................................
I think this a sign of some wire/connect tomfoolery. Possible aftermarket radio.
 

Frontporch

New member
Joined
Mar 5, 2021
Location
San Antonio Texas
TDI
2010 Tiguan 2.0
I have the console, part of the dashboard pulled off to expose the wires. I've replaced the resistor, run the fan directly from a second battery I'd been carrying in my front passenger side ordered a "resistor kit", which looks like a box, and I'm not even sure where it would go yet. The car does have bluetooth and I can run the phone through it now that I had found the microphone wires, but the original microphone was disconnected, so I put in a new one. There are no buttons on the steering wheel or anywhere on the dash to interact with blue tooth though. The car apparently had front passenger side damage before I got it and has new front quarter panel and headlight. I'm including that in case it may sound familiar or by chance this has happened to someone else? I had the HVAC control switch off and apart and the fan speed switches are ok, but I don't know about the sensors and control panel within. I'm wondering if a sensor may be involved because there are two connectors with smaller gauge wire that connect to the back of the HVAC control. Before the fan died, I could flip it to 0 then 4 when I was at highway speed then the fan would run for a while, then when the fan died , it would seem to allow air to passively blow through.
 

Frontporch

New member
Joined
Mar 5, 2021
Location
San Antonio Texas
TDI
2010 Tiguan 2.0
The preferred method of addressing a present issue is to begin your own thread and link to the ancient post rather than bringing it back from the dead... Please
Wiring and switch are most likely culprits.
Sent from my Armor_2 using Tapatalk
Hey, On one hand I appreciate trying to reduce clutter, or keeping the topics new, but I think it helps to see the similar problem discussed so the same questions aren't asked over and over when the answer may be in a previous thread.
 

Freakoboost1

Active member
Joined
Jun 10, 2022
Location
Lynden
TDI
98 AHU JETTA
This thread has been helpful for the most part, I’m removing all hvac controls and running switches in my euro center console of my mk3, bc my large touchscreen will be where fan switch, hot/cold, vent controls were…my question is, if I run switches to control fan speed for blower motor, I can tell by using a multimeter which wire on the plug is speeds 1-4 correct? There’s 6 on the plug. Just don’t want to make sure that one of the 6 wires is an oddball wire before I wire it all up to flush mount latch switches. I can’t find much info on my Bentley Manual regarding the blower motor switch/speeds.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
I have no clue how the 98 MK3 heater fan circuitry is set-up. That said, the MK4 has a Resistor mounted in the bottom of the fan housing. It is easily accessed by removing three screws on the bottom of the housing. Once you gain access to the Resistor, you will see it has a wire bundle plugged to it. One of the circuits from the Fan switch is #4 (top speed). That circuit technically by-passes the Resistor (full 12 volts to the fan motor). The other three circuits each follow a "path" through the Resistor based on the Fan Speed selection.

So, assuming the MK3 is similar, you should be able to "back-track" each circuit and determine it's position in the existing switch.
 
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