DIY: 2" Lift Kit for Under $40 - EASY!

Regarding the lower rear shock mount extension method.... Any idea if a piece of square tube will fit instead of the angle iron+flat stock bolted in? Basically the same idea, with the forward face of the tube trimmed to allow the shock eye room.

ShamrockTDI said:

Regarding the lower rear shock mount extension method.... Any idea if a piece of square tube will fit instead of the angle iron+flat stock bolted in? Basically the same idea, with the forward face of the tube trimmed to allow the shock eye room.

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I used square tubing, and welded it to the old mount. Threw some paint on it. Figure i can cut the piece off if i had too, although im not going back now.

What struts, shocks and springs are folks running with their lifts?

What struts, shocks and springs are folks running with their lifts? I'm thinking about installing the Metalnerd 2" lift. I'm using Bilstein HD struts and shocks right now, and will probably stick with those, but what springs are people using? Factory? Or something else?

ETA - Well, I just downloaded and read the Waiver for the Metalnerk kit, and you can't use it with aftermarket springs or Bilstein HDs. If I go that route, the Waiver says I "must use the EXACT color-coded spring that came with [my] engine/chassis combination." If I want to use Bilsteins, I'll have to use T/Cs--"Struts with large diameter pistons such as Bilstein HD and SP models (yellow paint) are NOT compatible."

Dante:

If you decide to get the lift and go for different struts please let me know, I'm looking for a used set of HDs.
The Koni Red or FSD would be a good choice with that kit.

-Grant

Has MN figured out a way to lift cars with ESP? Guess I should go look at his site...

Dante said:

What struts, shocks and springs are folks running with their lifts? I'm thinking about installing the Metalnerd 2" lift. I'm using Bilstein HD struts and shocks right now, and will probably stick with those, but what springs are people using? Factory? Or something else?

ETA - Well, I just downloaded and read the Waiver for the Metalnerk kit, and you can't use it with aftermarket springs or Bilstein HDs. If I go that route, the Waiver says I "must use the EXACT color-coded spring that came with [my] engine/chassis combination." If I want to use Bilsteins, I'll have to use T/Cs--"Struts with large diameter pistons such as Bilstein HD and SP models (yellow paint) are NOT compatible."

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I've had this lift a little over a year now. I used 3 year old Bilsteins, and bought 4 new (carquest) VR6 wagon springs.

Still awesome.

The issue with ESP is that you can get it kicking in some on corners more then before a lift since center of height is taller. That said-I have had a lift with ESP for 100K miles and plan on more once I get it running again after the engine fire (not related to the lift-likely the fuze box above the battery).

Good to hear. I wouldn't be permitted to use the MN kit, of course... but I'm still interested. I may take this up with a local mechanic. Even one more inch of clearance would be a blessing on backroads.

NonStop said:

I've had this lift a little over a year now. I used 3 year old Bilsteins, and bought 4 new (carquest) VR6 wagon springs.

Still awesome.

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NonStop, by "this lift" you are referring to the DIY lift, right? Is the DIY lift compatible with Bilstein HDs? What struts are you using?

Grant, thanks for the info regarding the Koni Reds. My HDs probably have 100,000 miles on them though. I got the Shine suspension quite a while ago.

Dante said:

NonStop, by "this lift" you are referring to the DIY lift, right? Is the DIY lift compatible with Bilstein HDs? What struts are you using?

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Yep DIY lift.

Bilstein TCs From three, now 4 years ago.

Dante said:

NonStop, by "this lift" you are referring to the DIY lift, right? Is the DIY lift compatible with Bilstein HDs? What struts are you using?

Grant, thanks for the info regarding the Koni Reds. My HDs probably have 100,000 miles on them though. I got the Shine suspension quite a while ago.

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None of the spacer-style lifts will work with the HDs because they are an inverted damper and the spring seat can't fit further down the shaft.

Your options will be different springs, some sort of spacer between the mount and the spring, adjustable spring perches or a different top-mount.

-Grant

Grantmac said:

None of the spacer-style lifts will work with the HDs because they are an inverted damper and the spring seat can't fit further down the shaft.

Your options will be different springs, some sort of spacer between the mount and the spring, adjustable spring perches or a different top-mount.

-Grant

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Thanks Grant. I ordered a 2" Metalnerd kit. It turns out they made a few specifically for use with Shine springs. I'll probably go with Koni Sports (since I'm used to the Billy HDs) or maybe FSDs. I'm a CPA, so I probably won't be installing the lift and new dampers until after April 15. I'll try to keep you posted in case you're still interested in my HDs.

I think then MN kit with Shines will be a cool combination, I'd love to here about how it goes.
I'm down in Washington all the time so if you decide to sell your HDs I can likely come get them.

-Grant

I'll keep you posted, Grant.

I've been trying to find the best way to do a 1.5 lift under $100. Looking through all the ways to do a lift. I've came with $40 moog wagen springs in the rear (i have them installed now and got a 1.25 lift) and having a local machine shop make 1.5 inch spacers for the front. This will level out the car. I talk with the local machine shop and i can get the 1.5 inch front spacers ALOT cheaper if i order more than just two. So i wanted to find out if anyone else was interest in this and i could make a bigger order. Let me know if any of you are interest.

Jason

Even easier option for your front end Jason:

Home Depot, the 1" galvanized pipe coupling. It is solid steel and 1.75" long. I have 2 of these on the front of my 03 wagon right now. It hasn't created any issues with my ESP in more than 1000 miles so far. Oh yeah: $4 each.

What I do have a question about for anyone that has done a decent sized lift - How much has your MPG changed? I had an unbalanced tire on this recent trip that I just got fixed, but my mileage seems to have dropped 5mpg with the lift?

At the same time as the lift, I replaced the 4 bushings on the front end, and new Monroe quickstruts that I installed the pipe couplings onto. The rear suspension is stock, except for Airlift 1000 bags inside new springs and then lifted / inflated to almost the same height as the front is now.

I put one up on weight rating springs on my car when I did the struts (Koni FSD) and it lifted my car at least 2 inches.

Geordi said:

Even easier option for your front end Jason:

Home Depot, the 1" galvanized pipe coupling. It is solid steel and 1.75" long. I have 2 of these on the front of my 03 wagon right now. It hasn't created any issues with my ESP in more than 1000 miles so far. Oh yeah: $4 each.

What I do have a question about for anyone that has done a decent sized lift - How much has your MPG changed? I had an unbalanced tire on this recent trip that I just got fixed, but my mileage seems to have dropped 5mpg with the lift?

At the same time as the lift, I replaced the 4 bushings on the front end, and new Monroe quickstruts that I installed the pipe couplings onto. The rear suspension is stock, except for Airlift 1000 bags inside new springs and then lifted / inflated to almost the same height as the front is now.

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The stock struts are 7/8 inch where the spacer slides on so a 1 inch pipe will be loose. That one of the reason I have gone that route. I'm not say it won't work I'm just concerned about it being safe.

Loose - Thats funny. It will have the full pressure of the spring seat against it, pressing it into the bearing above. It is in NO danger of slipping sideways once the pressure is relaxed from the spring compressors.

The collar is better than just a piece of threaded pipe, because it offers a fatter seating surface and is overall thicker than the pipe. The 1" collars actually fit the bearing quite nicely, matching the overall seating-surface of the bearing nearly perfectly.

Thinking about it some more, an easy answer to the centering issue might be as simple as a fat rubber bung from home depot (they have tapered versions for $2-$3) with a 7/8 hole drilled in the center. The rubber will be compressed into the center of the collar, but it will keep the collar from moving side-to-side at all. Since the top of the spring is not moving in relation to the threaded section, the rubber compressing onto the strut shaft shouldn't matter in the slightest.

Loose - Thats funny. It will have the full pressure of the spring seat against it, pressing it into the bearing above. It is in NO danger of slipping sideways once the pressure is relaxed from the spring compressors.

The collar is better than just a piece of threaded pipe, because it offers a fatter seating surface and is overall thicker than the pipe. The 1" collars actually fit the bearing quite nicely, matching the overall seating-surface of the bearing nearly perfectly.

Geordi said:

Even easier option for your front end Jason:

Home Depot, the 1" galvanized pipe coupling. It is solid steel and 1.75" long. I have 2 of these on the front of my 03 wagon right now. It hasn't created any issues with my ESP in more than 1000 miles so far. Oh yeah: $4 each.

Click to expand...

How have you tested for ESP issues? Just normal driving on dry roads, or have you taken the car onto slippery surfaces to see how well the ESP responds?

Normal driving for the most part, I haven't had the opportunity to be in a heavy rainstorm yet. That said, I also have good tires, so I never really felt / saw the ESP activate in anything other than black ice before this point. Unless the Climate Change takes an unexpected turn, I don't think I will be testing the ice-driving capabilities for another 8 months or so.

I'm happy to take it off-road into a grassy field and drive like a yobbo to test the ESP, but again, after some rain would probably be beneficial for that test.

I suspect that a lift is to ESP as floor mats are to unintended acceleration.

NarfBLAST said:

I suspect that a lift is to ESP as floor mats are to unintended acceleration.

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As in... It's only a problem if you are a nudnik and don't know how to drive for conditions?


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I think I've had a semi-brilliant idea on how to lift the front end the easy and expensive way . As opposed to doing the regular spacer thing, I think it would allow for full suspension travel and eliminate the risk of topping out the strut. This is just a mock up and the dimensions are not based in reality, I'll have to bust out the calliper at some point and take some real measurements. It clamps onto the strut by pinching it and then it's installed into the knuckle just like normal. Can you think of any reason this wouldn't work? I'd hate to spend the time to actually model it and get it machined up just to find out I was overlooking something obvious!

No, that is exactly what I had envisioned originally, and I'm quite surprised that it doesn't exist other than because of the fabrication that would need to happen.

I'm not terribly chuffed with my front lift at the moment, so I am thinking of removing it. The spacer option at the top is easy and cheap, except for the pain-in-the-arse problem of getting the strut out of the knuckle to change or remove it. My knuckles DO NOT play nice with any special spreader and the strut needs to be bashed loose with a sledgehammer wailing on the knuckle. I don't like that at all.

You build that, I'd buy one.

FYI, I've been in constant rain at highway speeds for 3 days now. No problems with the ESP at all. The only time it activated, was when I was on an entrance ramp loop, turning sharply and accelerating, and hit a puddle and slid sideways a little. Stomping on the go-pedal also made the ESP unhappy, because the tires broke loose in the wet.

If you build this, I'll take two.

anarchos said:

I think I've had a semi-brilliant idea on how to lift the front end the easy and expensive way . As opposed to doing the regular spacer thing, I think it would allow for full suspension travel and eliminate the risk of topping out the strut. This is just a mock up and the dimensions are not based in reality, I'll have to bust out the calliper at some point and take some real measurements. It clamps onto the strut by pinching it and then it's installed into the knuckle just like normal. Can you think of any reason this wouldn't work? I'd hate to spend the time to actually model it and get it machined up just to find out I was overlooking something obvious!

Click to expand...

NonStop said:

If you build this, I'll take two.

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Me three!

Ok, had some REALLY heavy rain tonight on the highway in South Carolina. 60mph, windy, and the ESP wasn't terribly happy with the conditions. It was detecting all the massive puddles on the roadway, once the water wasn't quite so heavy on the road, the ESP calmed down.

Thinking some more about that collar idea, I see one big potential problem with it: The bottom of the strut fits VERY tightly into the knuckle, and is recessed about 2.5 inches. Your collar would need to raise the strut bottom that full 2.5 inches, and there wouldn't be any option for a lesser lift. That's too much even for my tastes, unless another idea comes forward.

My lift.
Made pieces

Before

After