Ok, here's the professional recommendation (30+ years as a paint chemist):
Some of the products at the big box stores will work fine but you will get better counter help at a stand alone paint store. You'll also pay more.
The outcome of the job comes down to proper surface treatment. Use proper rated gloves and googles when handling the acid and paint. If you're worried about wrecking your clothes, you will. If you don't care, you probably won't spill anything on them.
Here's the steps:
Clean the garage floor with degreaser and then soap and water and rinse well.
Acid etch the floor with muriatic acid and rinse well. Then rinse again. Not getting all the acid residue up will cause any coating to fail quickly.
Use a two component epoxy coatings developed for garage floors. The epoxy can be applied by roller or squeegee. Don't over work it or you can capture foam or possibly change the color in areas.
Follow the label recommendations for mix time, dwell time (time after mixing before starting application), cure and recoat time. Failure to follow any or all of these steps can result in the coating lifting.
Many epoxies can be top coated with a clear acrylic for a higher depth of image but you have to careful doing that as many clears will pull up from the hot tires (warm and wet tires are really the worst).
As has been mentioned, either mix texture into the epoxy before coating or broadcast it on to the freshly applied paint. Mixing it into the paint before application will give more uniform coverage but may reduce your pot life (workable time).
Some epoxies are sensitive to UV light and may yellow over time where they are exposed to direct sunlight. They may also yellow where the car tires sit on the surface. The higher sport rating of the tire, the worse the yellowing may be.
Single best recommendation? If you're not willing to put the surface prep and application work into it to get the best job out of the paint, either hire it done or don't do it at all.