Uberhare
Veteran Member
Trans went in in March. There was a mileage jump then. Warmer weather compounded with the 6 speed would be May.
Not looking forward to winter.
Not looking forward to winter.
No need to mess with the subframe at all. Clutch is a DC clutch. Whitbread can give you more details on it.Jason
When pulling the auto tranny did you remove the subframe all the way, or just lower it? Meaning can you leave it attached to the lower control arms.
What clutch are you using now?
Thanks -Rory
Really. Wow you can get to all the transmission bell housing bolts and remove the junkbox (auto) out without loosening the subframe at all? Cool
Yes I am currently in communication with Matt about buying a clutch through him.
Thanks again.
Ubershare-
What did you do to deal with the minimal pilot bearing engagement do to the 5.5mm spacer? What is your opinion of having the 6 speed box? Do you think you could have lived with just 5 gears and a slightly higher rpm on the interstate? If you can please try to answer this pretending the 5 speed box was just as stout as the 6 speed and could hold your 27 psi just fine? Thanks for humoring me.
There is one exception that I know of which is the DQS gearbox. I do not know from first hand experience, but from what I have read here, it seems there are issues with the resonances in 6th gear due to the taller gearing.The 5 speed and 6 speed TDI boxes have the same final ratio, so the highway speed RPMs in top gear are the same. Intermediate gear ratios are different.
Jon
Yeah, forgot about the DQS...There is one exception that I know of which is the DQS gearbox. I do not know from first hand experience, but from what I have read here, it seems there are issues with the resonances in 6th gear due to the taller gearing.
There are plemty of threads and discussions here about the pros and cons of the 5 speed vs 6 speed. Personally, I am more than pleased with the 5 speed.
Advised by whom? There are a few of us running DQS boxes. The spacer is not needed with this box and you can use the stock starter too.Just a quick heads up, I was advised that the DQS box's from v6 TDI's are to be avoided because they have a shorter input shaft (1/2"). One would be better off using the 4 cyl. tdi 6-speed (such as FRK).
Yes, sorry, I have manuals on the brainThat is definitely not correct. I just did this job. Took a lot of pics, perhaps I should post them.
Anycase you HAVE to drop the subframe, not all the way, but enough to tip the ZF auto trans down to get to the bellhousing bolts. This requires removing the bolts in all four corners of the subframe and disconnecting the lower strut/shock mount, along with holding up the engine.
Now I heard with a manual, it is not needed to drop the subframe.
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I have a DQS, several FRKs and a GVS. The FRKs and GVS have a longer input shaft, not sure why. The fact the DQS only ever went behind a V6 TDI crankshaft may have something to do with it. The FRK and GVS were always for 4cyl 1.9/2.0 PD TDIs, just like ours. I suspect VW knew a thing or two.Advised by whom? There are a few of us running DQS boxes. The spacer is not needed with this box and you can use the stock starter too.
Thanks for the info I was under impression that the crank is too long to fit snugly with the manual tranny that is why you need to shave it... Where in Ontario are you, maybe I will bring all my stuff up north and you can help me with that swap...Auto cranks are different on the diesel as well, but the normal manual pilot bearing fits the hole and if it is not driven in too deep it works fine.
You don't have to modify the crank on your 1.8T. You can get an oilite bronze bushing made to fit the pilot bearing hole in your existing crank. Auto cranks aren't quite as long but there is sufficient length (like the diesel) to support the input shaft. The auto crank has a hardened bushing that fits the converter pilot, it must be removed first. Take it and the transmission or at least the dimensions of your input shaft to your local machine shop and they can make you a bushing to mate the two.
OK thanks for all the tips I didn't mean to offend you or anything with asking if you could help... But greatly appreciate the help, I would be scared to grind down the crank so this is the way to goThe crank is actually too short on an auto 1.8t. The reason many grind the end down is to fit a large sealed ball bearing into the center of the flywheel to act as a pilot bearing. This method seems a bit crude.
I would just machine a bronze bushing to insert in the end of the crank and be done with it. It may also be possible to find a needle bearing that will fit the hole in the 1.8T crank and also fit the input shaft of the trans, I haven't really done much research.
I don't work on VW's professionally. It's more of a hobby for me. I'm not interested in working on your car.
There you goI can see that there is a lot of info, and it is a bit scattered and disjointed.
can be pull together a recommended table? I am planning a comprehensive thread with everything in one place, I took a lot of pictures while performing my swap
For 5 Speed conversion
transaxle model ( 5 speed: FHN, DUK, EEN, DVS, APL, CPC, DHF, DHL, DJE to name a few)
flywheel, clutch, PP , Valeo 52285615
starter (use original)
subframe and mounts Original subframe with v6 tranny mounts
axles Depends are transmission but I used AWM code new style axles
pedals, cluch cyl, switch Only need the clutch pedal, brake pedal, longer pedal pin, and both clutch switches
ecm modes cruise You have to have vagcom and the help of a tuner, I used Mark Malone
shift linkage Shifter assembly out of any b5 will work so long as it has the same shift pattern as the tranny you use
any of you pioneers willing to share the info ?