Tips or tricks from MK6 front strut replacement

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Twglace

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Hey all,

I’m doing my front struts/mounts this weekend on my 13 Jetta SW and I was wondering if you all had any tips or tricks on making my life easier? I did order the spreader socket and got a 21mm 75 degree offset box wrench to disassemble the strut assy... O and a giant can of PB blaster lol. Anything else special I may need?


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oilhammer

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Sway bar links. I take the carrier out with the strut, so you may need to push the axle out, depends on how hard it is stuck in there.

Strut compressor, obviously.
 
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Twglace

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Roswell GA
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Sorry I forgot to mention I did get sway bar link.


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Twglace

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oilhammer said:
Sway bar links. I take the carrier out with the strut, so you may need to push the axle out, depends on how hard it is stuck in there.



Strut compressor, obviously.
Click to expand...


So you think this job is completely doable without impact? I have people at my work who keep telling me I better get a impact gun...


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oilhammer

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
No idea, I wouldn't even try to do some things without my extensive tool and equipment arsenal.

Could you? Certainly. Will it be a pain in the butt? Most likely.
 
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abishoff

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You’ll definitely want an impact to make the job easier. If you decide to remove the hub as well, definitely replace the lower ball joint while your in there.


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alext91

alext91

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Impact gun will help, but isn't necessary. I had to get some lengths of pipe to use as spacers with my spring compressors in order to get up into the recess to compress the springs. The threaded part of the spring compressors was too long otherwise. If you can get enough compression, you shouldn't have to remove the axle. Sometimes it helps to have someone stand on the control arm while you pull the assembly out. Good luck!
 
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Twglace

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alext91 said:
Impact gun will help, but isn't necessary. I had to get some lengths of pipe to use as spacers with my spring compressors in order to get up into the recess to compress the springs. The threaded part of the spring compressors was too long otherwise. If you can get enough compression, you shouldn't have to remove the axle. Sometimes it helps to have someone stand on the control arm while you pull the assembly out. Good luck!
Click to expand...


I do have the spring compressor tool from autozone would that be sufficient? I would love not to drop the axle if I don’t have to lol


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Twglace

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If I do decide to drop the axle it is difficult to reassemble?


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alext91

alext91

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Twglace said:
I do have the spring compressor tool from autozone would that be sufficient? I would love not to drop the axle if I don’t have to lol
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Yeah that will work, the problem is that you need to thread the "clamp" pieces so far down the rod that a large part of the rod sticks up and makes it impossible to fit into the body. I've always run into this problem doing struts on these cars. But I picked up a couple of pieces of pipe at my local hardware store to make it work. I've attached a photo to show what I mean. (not my photo)
 
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Twglace

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alext91 said:
Yeah that will work, the problem is that you need to thread the "clamp" pieces so far down the rod that a large part of the rod sticks up and makes it impossible to fit into the body. I've always run into this problem doing struts on these cars. But I picked up a couple of pieces of pipe at my local hardware store to make it work. I've attached a photo to show what I mean. (not my photo)

Click to expand...


Is taking out the axle really that difficult? I planned on getting an alignment ether way.


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alext91

alext91

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Taking out the axle isn't bad at all really, you may want to rent the FWD axle puller tool though just in case it is stuck. In that case, having an impact will really help you out. It's as simple as removing the axle bolt and pushing it out. Also recommended to replace the axle bolt. I suppose if you are replacing the axle bolt, you could unthread it a few turns, and then hit the bolt with a sledge instead of using the axle puller. You will also need the 24mm 12 point axle bolt socket.
 
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Twglace

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alext91 said:
Taking out the axle isn't bad at all really, you may want to rent the FWD axle puller tool though just in case it is stuck. In that case, having an impact will really help you out. It's as simple as removing the axle bolt and pushing it out. Also recommended to replace the axle bolt. I suppose if you are replacing the axle bolt, you could unthread it a few turns, and then hit the bolt with a sledge instead of using the axle puller. You will also need the 24mm 12 point axle bolt socket.
Click to expand...


Awesome, thanks for that I will see if I can get my hands on one just in case. This is just what I needed.


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Twglace

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alext91 said:
Taking out the axle isn't bad at all really, you may want to rent the FWD axle puller tool though just in case it is stuck. In that case, having an impact will really help you out. It's as simple as removing the axle bolt and pushing it out. Also recommended to replace the axle bolt. I suppose if you are replacing the axle bolt, you could unthread it a few turns, and then hit the bolt with a sledge instead of using the axle puller. You will also need the 24mm 12 point axle bolt socket.
Click to expand...


Already got one on hold at autozone ! Lol thanks again


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Twglace

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alext91 said:
Awesome, best of luck!
Click to expand...


I did the job yesterday. Only took me about 4 hours and I pulled out the axles .... it was super simple only thing that was a pain was getting the knuckle back into place on the passenger side. That axle doesn’t give you much to work with lol.


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alext91

alext91

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Twglace said:
I did the job yesterday. Only took me about 4 hours and I pulled out the axles .... it was super simple only thing that was a pain was getting the knuckle back into place on the passenger side. That axle doesn’t give you much to work with lol.


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Click to expand...
Nice!! 4 hours isn't too bad for a first time. [emoji106]

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Twglace

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alext91 said:
Nice!! 4 hours isn't too bad for a first time. [emoji106]

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Click to expand...


Driving it for the first time after doing this it feels alittle crunchy.... I triple checked to make sure I reassembled the strut assemblies correct. Any advice on what to check ? Or if it’s normal?


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Twglace

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Nothing is loose it feels almost like a giant grinding like something’s rubbing


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da.hs

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Grinding sound related to car bouncing over uneven ground or to wheel speed?
 
alext91

alext91

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Is this happening all the time while driving? Or when turning, etc. ?

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abishoff

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What struts did you use? Are you sure you got the knuckles tight enough around the strut? I’m not sure what the torque rating is.


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Twglace

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abishoff said:
What struts did you use? Are you sure you got the knuckles tight enough around the strut? I’m not sure what the torque rating is.


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Click to expand...

Bilstein b4s and yes I torqued them with 105nm.


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Twglace

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It’s 100% a rotational grinding could is it possible I f*** up the axles? Or possibly change the pitch of the bearings ?? I’m pissed at myself at the moment lol.... plus I am taking a road trip in the damn thing Wednesday night...


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abishoff

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I’ve been having some issues since I did mine. I’m caught between not tightening the knuckle enough, possibly and subframe issue cause I did a new front swaybar on, or the springs moving. Mine seems mostly while turning at low speed.


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alext91

alext91

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Jack the wheel up and spin it to identify the sound.

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Twglace

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abishoff said:
I’ve been having some issues since I did mine. I’m caught between not tightening the knuckle enough, possibly and subframe issue cause I did a new front swaybar on, or the springs moving. Mine seems mostly while turning at low speed.


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Click to expand...


I did my sway bar links as well but yeah that’s one thing I tried Is turned the wheel all the way both directions and no clunking nothing at all... struts seem to be solid.... honestly other than the grinding and very slight vibration it drives much better than before....


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