I want my hatch lock to copy the door locks

I don't believe in locking my car doors most of the time and find it very frustrating that the hatch (wagon) is always locked. From what I've read, this seems to be this way by design.



Has anyone figure out how to wire/program the hatch to lock/unlock with the rest of the doors? I don't have a Bentley for this car so I don't know how it is wired up but it seems like it should be simple enough to connect the hatch to the lock/unlock wire(s)?


Any ideas?

There is a way to do this - my B5 is programmed this way - the hatch unlocks with all the other doors, locks with all the other doors.

This required VDSpro

It's an old DOS program that requires some fiddly port settings, or a really old laptop.

Wingnut used his to program my wagon, and enable the remote-control-windows feature as well.

I seem to remember someone in SW Ont with it as well...

Needs to be an older laptop with a real UART serial chip. Software serial ports don't cut it.

You can also use a couple diodes in the driver's door wiring to send the hatch lock the same "unlock" signal the rest of the car's door locks get:

http://4130-products.com/step/hatch/index.htm

I found this to be much easier than tracking down a machine that can run DOS and has ole skool serial ports.

Only side effect is that the car alarm horn won't beep when you lock the car with the fob... if you've not opened the hatch. Tail lights still flash, just no confirmation beep... until a couple minutes later when the hatch re-locks by itself and the alarm then auto-arms.

Small price to pay IMHO for the joy of having that latch act like every other one in the car... I wonder what VW was thinking?!

Well since I just scrapped my old 386 I guess I'll have to go with the diode method. Is there a way to get rid of the 60 second window of opportunity? I never lock the car at my house and I often open the hatch first. If I can't get rid of the 60 seconds, I'll probably abandon this idea. I've already gotten rid of the horn sounding when arming the alarm so that isn't an issue.

Tis true that doing this mod in hardware you've got 60 seconds after you unlock the doors with your fob (or they auto-unlock when removing the key from the ignition, if the comfort module is so configured) to pop the hatch.

This fits my situation fine...if I'm unloading the car the hatch is unlocked more than long enough for me to exit the car and go get the groceries. If I'm approaching the car to load something in the back I just open the car with the fob, like I would if I was gonna get in the front seat and drive away.

If you never lock the car and just want to pop the hatch hours later without having the fob on you... yup...probably won't do what you want.

I always have my key on me when using the car, so no big deal for me.

Thinking about this more, since the hatch remains unlocked if it doesn't fully close, can I just delete the hatch closed switch? Will this cause the comfort module to stay awake and drain my battery though?

Try and make your way to pickering - get Wingnut to program it for you.

It really is the best option - no compromises, and the car works like it should have from the factory from there on. The remote-windows are a bonus as well.

So getting it programmed will leave the hatch unlocked until I lock it?

It will behave as if it were another door.

My doors all lock and unlock in unison, including the hatch.

If the car has the security feature enabled where remote unlocks the driver's door first, then the second press unlocks the remainder, the hatch will unlock with the second press. Locking the doors via remote will lock all "5" doors at once.

Feel free to stop by my place and try the doors on my car if you wish.

Almost worth the drive from Alberta to Ontario.

Almost.