The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

Sort of finished the clutch swap, today. I couldn't find the used clutch's TO bearing, so I tried to regrease the one that came out of the car.... didn't work too well. All local stores would have to order it, so the Rabbit volunteered its bearing.

Cleaned the grounds (need to get the one by the orb) then bolted everything back together. No clue why I had partial quarts of trans fluid, but I ended up being a quart short. Stores were closed by this time, so I'll test drive it tomorrow.

I'm going to need to try and seal up the rockers. I never really looked, but laying under the car gave me a whole new perspective. It's bad...

-Todd

Dumped the last quart of Syncromesh in the trans and buttoned it up. The rot box is officially shifting gears... hurrah!

Didn't like the fact that I have to press the clutch to start the car, so I found a 2 pin male plug and made a jumper. No more clutch interlock nonsense. I figure it's gotta be easier on the thrust bearing. Odd that my 96 and 97 B4s don't have this feature, yet this '97 Jetta does.

I guess I'll call Derek about the cluster. After buying a beat cluster, I don't want to keep rolling the dice.

-Todd

Still tinkering with the rot box.... Got tired of using the trunk release button in the center console. The key wouldn't turn, in the lock cylinder.

Pulled the lock cylinder out of the trunk lid and took it apart. The grease was so dry, I needed to tap/pry a few of the wafers out. Cleaned everything in the solvent tank with a brass brush then sanded the corrosion off the wafers with 1500 grit paper.

Reassembled, reinstalled and now I can get in the trunk normally. The little things...

-Todd

Left all the newer cars at home, including a '15 GSW with 3K miles on it, and drove the B4 on a 200 mile trip to Cape Cod and back. Used about 1/4 tank of fuel, ran perfectly. A/C is excellent. Early TDIs are the best TDIs.

Put a for sale sign on it.

Been chasing down an odor issue in the wagon, for the past several weeks. . Today I decided to go deeper.

Pulled all the floor mats, looked under the seats, the spare tire well, rear cargo pockets, glove box , the evaporator box etc.. Sprayed everything down with odor eliminator, as I went. Nothing...

As I was putting everything back in the car, I looked in a small box I keep bottles of fuel treatment and nitrile gloves. By the tail, it appeared to be a baby squirrel or chipmunk and it's maggot friends.

No clue how it got in the car or if I was driving around with it alive.

-Todd

The flies had to get in somehow, too.

I leave my windows cracked when it's warm out. Oddly enough, I never had swarms of flies (or even one) that would be a tell tale sign. The odor would disappear within minutes of driving.

I do leave the doors or hatch wide open for hours as I'm tinkering on multiple cars, though.

When it started, it was more of a musty smell, but this car doesn't leak. It gradually got worse, (nothing overpowering,) and I started to wonder.

Unsure what the critter found appealing about oily bottles and gloves ...

-Todd

anyone have a good source for oil breather hose. i have a vent box, the sh*tty tubing they send with it is/always has been no good(nfg i believe is the correct term), worth going in the trash. finding it real hard, these days to find just general oil compatible hose. and definitely dont need oil hose that takes pressure. i believe vent box takes 1/2"hose, the other hose i have to measure, its the std ccv to pre-turbo intake hose-connection. so i need two sizes of hose. then i can make a trip to my local plumbing shop to fit adapters, in the one case i ll use a 3(or 4) T adapter, with large hose going in one side, it ll be 2, 1/2"hoses to vent box, last opening being an option, block that one off.

Cam seal was leaking and fouling the belt tract. I Hope the new position for the seal will make a difference, I pressed it in all the way this time. we will see if it leaks significantly down the block again.

So instead of the fouled belt, I installed the stronger Dayco belt that Digital Corpus found. 9,000 miles since I did my last timing belt job and kept everything else in place. Now I need to decide on going the full 60k instead this time.
[/IMG]

kooyajerms said:

Cam seal was leaking and fouling the belt tract. I Hope the new position for the seal will make a difference, I pressed it in all the way this time. we will see if it leaks significantly down the block again.

So instead of the fouled belt, I installed the stronger Dayco belt that Digital Corpus found. 9,000 miles since I did my last timing belt job and kept everything else in place. Now I need to decide on going the full 60k instead this time.

[/IMG]

Click to expand...

So we actually have manufacturer confirmation that this belt is 'stronger?'

I was under the impression that the better belt was Gates.

Steve

I pulled my door handle and the door stayed shut while the handle came off on my hand... dunno my own strength i guess.... haha.

it was feeling loose for a few days but i checked that screw and it was tight... guess it was cracked inside and not just a loose screw.

Anyway, i need a drivers door handle to replace the one im going to steal from the wagon tomorrow.

Steve Addy said:

So we actually have manufacturer confirmation that this belt is 'stronger?'

I was under the impression that the better belt was Gates.

Steve

Click to expand...

Hey Steve, how anyone wants to interpret stronger is up to them, but no manufacturer will make a statement considering this isn't the correct application

Physically, the two belts are constructed so differently. That Duralast/Dayco belt was SUPER stiff (in a good way). This thing is beefy.

Like Digital Corpus, I cut down my original timing belt jobs down to 50k miles because of the build and 11mm pump, this just puts me back at 60k miles. The idler and tensioner are the only reason I won't risk going longer.

No big price jump between the stock 1Z Gates Belt vs this one at $28. Can't hurt me.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=450300

Matt-98AHU said:

Those Dayco belts are pretty awesome. From experience with them on ALHs, they wear like steel. The toothed side is very hard.
Fwiw, ALH belts are the same width, just longer and with more teeth, of course. Otherwise, the construction of the Dayco belt appears identical.
Also, the CR motors came with Daycos from the factory pretty frequently, those are rated at 120k! Though I will say the Gen 1 CRs are wider, too. The CKRA/gen 2 is back down to about the width of the ALH/1Z/AHU belts, rating remains 120k, though.

Click to expand...

no love from the passat this week...

shes been nice to me for a while but now i have that broken door handle i posted yesterday and i had an injector line snap on my way home today... must have had tension on it causing fatigue...

It looked like gallons of diesel sprayed all over my engine bay, so i pressure washed the bay for the first time ever. some of that stuff has never even had a rag accidentally brush the crud off of it. lol.

luckily i had a spare set of lines lying on the shelf so i was back on the road in under an hour, even after finding a second line that had a pinhole rusted in it...

Ya know, maybe if i didnt beat her like a rented mule, she might break down less...

kooyajerms said:

but no manufacturer will make a statement considering this isn't the correct application

Click to expand...

A bit confused about the above statement. I want to AutoZone and Amazon and it lists the Dayco belt as the correct application for our cars. Service interval is still 60k.

Is it because you have an 11mm pump that you're stating this is not the correct application?

-Todd

Oh really? I thought this was being pulled from the parts bin? If it cross references to our 1z/ahu the question is why has no one (stated online) used it till Digital Corpus? What's that, 20 years? That's why we assumed it to allow for the longer interval *ymmv*
(Wasn't being facetious in my response Todd, those are real question marks. I sound like a dick!)

ToddA1 said:

A bit confused about the above statement. I want to AutoZone and Amazon and it lists the Dayco belt as the correct application for our cars. Service interval is still 60k.

Is it because you have an 11mm pump that you're stating this is not the correct application?

-Todd

Click to expand...

Lists the particular specific Dayco part number DC identified, or just lists _A_ Dayco belt? I don't think anyone has disputed that Dayco makes a timing belt for the AHU/1Z platform. The one DC identified is for an 11mm stock application but fits the AHU/1Z.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk

I wouldn't choose any Dayco part number, lol.... 95242. Coincidentally, the Continentals most of us use is TB242. The last 3 digits must mean something, even if it's a cross width.... 24.2mm?

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=5266357&postcount=26

By the pic, it's definitely a beefy belt.

When I Googled the complete part number shown on the belt, the only hits I got were from European sites.

-Todd

kooyajerms said:

Oh really? I thought this was being pulled from the parts bin? If it cross references to our 1z/ahu the question is why has no one (stated online) used it till Digital Corpus? What's that, 20 years? That's why we assumed it to allow for the longer interval *ymmv*
(Wasn't being facetious in my response Todd, those are real question marks. I sound like a dick!)

Click to expand...

I'm in agreement with Todd on this, the 95242 is correct application for AHU/1Z, at least what I'm seeing here.

Originally, back when this whole uprated belt thing began it was the difference between two Gates belts, not between a Gates belt and a Dayco belt. IDK how the whole discussion moved on to Dayco but it did. I will say though that I have never had a problem with the Dayco product. I can't say though that it's better, even if it is different.

The only reason I asked about longevity was that people have so many times talked about the 'uprated' timing belt as being better with absolutely no evidence to support that one way or another. Nothing from the manufacturer that says so, it's just supposition and it may not be true.

The old adage of repeating something often enough it becomes true comes to mind here.

Not trying to be rude, just trying to bring a little cold water to the discussion.

PS - I did ask Litens once about whether the tensioner needed to be changed at 60k miles when the belt was changed and their response was no. I have run both tensioner and roller for 120k miles with no problems and probably could have gone to 180k truth be known. What I'm saying is there's nothing to suggest that these components need to be changed every time the belt is replaced. Further, there's no evidence that a build or enhanced IP would put any greater strain on either one of these components.Timing belt...perhaps, tensioner and roller...doubt it.

Steve

i ve changed tensioner regularly @60k so there are no problems(there), as i dont always have say where certain parts come from(from time to time). seems tho, i have original rollers, havent been changed out since '98. happen to have a couple to swap out(in boxes). havent seen the immediate need to change out. all rollers seem to turn,roll freely.

iluvmydiesels said:

i ve changed tensioner regularly @60k so there are no problems(there), as i dont always have say where certain parts come from(from time to time). seems tho, i have original rollers, havent been changed out since '98. happen to have a couple to swap out(in boxes). havent seen the immediate need to change out. all rollers seem to turn,roll freely.

Click to expand...

I did nothing but drive my B4 from Oakland to the South Boise river and back. Never gave a moments trouble, and returned 46 mpg at 65 to 70 mph. Used about 8 oz of oil over the distance of about 1600 miles. That's the longest trip I've taken with it. I realize this post might better be put in the Road Trip forum, but more of the B4 guys will see it here. No oil pan leak anymore either!

the other day i bought a water pump pulley tool. am currently looking for a tool for mk3 water pump pulley. this tool is just a thick piece of metal, its like 1/4" thick, no flimsy handle here, as i ve heard from such 'discount' places like H-F. its tool ?VA 6024? says it is same tool as VAG 1590. seems it ll fit mk2 water pumps, & p/s pumps (pulleys). it ll also fit my mk3 p/s pump, however it wont reach the recessed water pump pulley. what tool do you guys use to get to this pulley? i have the water pump on the v-belt that now goes to p/s unit. tools not bad for $20bucks, over-kill for bolts that get ~20ftlbs of tightness, although as my book value states i increase most factory/book values, to about 23ftlbs-25ftlbs. 'a little' extra insurance, like most fasteners need.

i was, looking at water pump flange, had an idea of taking pliers, or water pump pliers to that flange, although on further inspection of flange it would seem to be 3-sided, wont be able to get a solid bite on it, leverage. is next-on-the-list,-resort. until i find the correct tool.

iluvmydiesels said:

the other day i bought a water pump pulley tool. am currently looking for a tool for mk3 water pump pulley. this tool is just a thick piece of metal, its like 1/4" thick, no flimsy handle here, as i ve heard from such 'discount' places like H-F. its tool ?VA 6024? says it is same tool as VAG 1590. seems it ll fit mk2 water pumps, & p/s pumps (pulleys). it ll also fit my mk3 p/s pump, however it wont reach the recessed water pump pulley. what tool do you guys use to get to this pulley? i have the water pump on the v-belt that now goes to p/s unit. tools not bad for $20bucks, over-kill for bolts that get ~20ftlbs of tightness, although as my book value states i increase most factory/book values, to about 23ftlbs-25ftlbs. 'a little' extra insurance, like most fasteners need.
i was, looking at water pump flange, had an idea of taking pliers, or water pump pliers to that flange, although on further inspection of flange it would seem to be 3-sided, wont be able to get a solid bite on it, leverage. is next-on-the-list,-resort. until i find the correct tool.

Click to expand...

Have you ever used the SHIFT key to start a sentence?

For the water pump pulley - either use a strap wrench to hold the pulley, or "blip" the bolts loose with an impact gun through the wheel well.

Windex said:

Have you ever used the SHIFT key to start a sentence?

Click to expand...

not once irreverent, almighty guru windex. (sarcastic overtone) (<although the patronage is well deserved)

Windex said:

For the water pump pulley - either use a strap wrench to hold the pulley, or "blip" the bolts loose with an impact gun through the wheel well.

Click to expand...

and thanks for the help, think i ll get a good belt that i probably dont have much use for and use a set of vice-grips. the 'bip' thing with a gun would take off bolts, i doubt its much 'help' getting them back on. sounds way too tight. although as i think of it, i happen to have a pretty good craftsman impact with 3 adjustments. the lowest is fairly lo--.

-oop, no CAPS<there we go. (so sarcastic).

i placed an order from napa online, the shipping was slow; on getting package, i was disappointed. i had ordered a water pump, seems this pos is plastic, nfg. they superseded part, perhaps recently, prev pump was metal. no more. pos. no use to me. i had also ordered a gasket, this gasket in the pic appeared to be the metal type, on getting it turns out to be paper. went down to my local napa store, parts guy takes a look, its a metal pic, part# is the same. i ve had some, usually minor problems with napa, and its parts. i ve typically had more problems with other suppliers, and napa prices have been reasonable. not only are their quality of parts declining, they are now giving inaccurate info, and less info on parts. not very happy. then again its the evolution, or declining-evolution most if not all business take since, i-dont-know-when; been younger. worried at how much several cents can make them over how many thousands of (individual) sold items, compounded,added over total inventory and such.

the other week i bought rear wheel bearings, thought i was getting quality parts, that i thought i had ordered. the inners are still fag, slovacia made, good enough quality, for me. the outers about same price, should be same quality ended up being made in japan. not really happy in this change of mfg, quality.

iluvmydiesels said:

i placed an order from napa online, the shipping was slow; on getting package, i was disappointed. i had ordered a water pump, seems this pos is plastic, nfg. they superseded part, perhaps recently, prev pump was metal. no more. pos. no use to me. i had also ordered a gasket, this gasket in the pic appeared to be the metal type, on getting it turns out to be paper. went down to my local napa store, parts guy takes a look, its a metal pic, part# is the same. i ve had some, usually minor problems with napa, and its parts. i ve typically had more problems with other suppliers, and napa prices have been reasonable. not only are their quality of parts declining, they are now giving inaccurate info, and less info on parts. not very happy. then again its the evolution, or declining-evolution most if not all business take since, i-dont-know-when; been younger. worried at how much several cents can make them over how many thousands of (individual) sold items, compounded,added over total inventory and such.

the other week i bought rear wheel bearings, thought i was getting quality parts, that i thought i had ordered. the inners are still fag, slovacia made, good enough quality, for me. the outers about same price, should be same quality ended up being made in japan. not really happy in this change of mfg, quality.

Click to expand...

I have very good luck with Rock Auto, apparently you do not. I'm not particularly happy with Napa but that's more due to their website sucking badly and their slow to get parts shipped in.

As for the metal WP gasket, it is a different part number, but some retailers use incorrect images with their parts, you have to know what you're looking for and then be wary of pictures.

Steve

It's because of your lack of capitalization.

Had you used capital letters, you would not have received substandard parts.

Not a big NAPA fan here! I use the paper gasket that comes with the water pump. Put a little white RTV on both sides, good to go. I use ID Parts, metal impeller, never a problem. Windex you are a funny guy. I fell out of my chair laughing when I saw your keyboard reply.