Any Ct guys available to diagnose?

Some one with good knowledge of vnt adjustment. (2006 1.9tdi brm, borg turbo, idiparts actuator, stock everything).

Ive read so much, and thought I had it, but things just aren't working like they should.

Yesterday replaced the dual mass flywheel, did the egr delete, and fixed the broken idi parts bracket for the vnt actuator.

Got this car a few weeks ago. Seems in pretty good shape mechanically. Needs little things, but I cant get the actuator to work in harmony...

The turbo vanes are not stuck, but I did the oven cleaner cleaning just to be sure, while doing the egr delete.

The turbo actuator arm moves freely from top to bottom, with out the actuator rod in the arm hole.

The actuator moves freely. Starts moving downward at around 4-5 psi vacuum, and stops moving around 18-20 psi.

This all sounds so promising!!!

But, when the actuator rod is in the arm hole, it does not move freely in the adjusted position.

If I adjust the stop nuts to be 4-5mm from when the actuator arm starts moving, it will not move downward. The arm wont move, the rod wont move. Amount of vacuum does not matter. I can press down on it with a screw driver, and it wont budge.

Now, from what Ive read, another way to roughly adjust it, is to apply full vacuum and let the rod extend all the way down. Let the vein arm extend down to the stop screw (assuming its adjusted correctly), and now bring the bottom lock screw up to the bottom of the arm.

Now release vacuum, let it rise back up, and lock down your upper screw.


Now, this method gives me different results.

The arm and actuator rod, move correctly/freely. Starts going down at 4-5 psi, and hits the stop around 18-20.

Perfect right?!?!

When the car is running, and I give it gas, I get a bad tapping sound as the rpm rises. Sound like low oil or bad injectors on an idi. In harmony, and repeatable. Scary sounding.

What is going on???

If I adjust the rod to the middle, it still wont move freely, but the car drives fine. Took it on a long test drive. Boosts, shifts, everything is pretty normal.

Now I think it was screwed up like this when I got it, but the actuator bracket was broke, and the flywheel needed to be done. I can see the marks on the actuator rod, where the set screws were, and they were right about where I have them now, where the car is driving ok, but the arm is not moving.

Thanks for taking the time to read this. I have money, pizza, beer, or what ever else floats your boat.

Thanks. 203-989-7103 Tom. 06516

Also have tools, lift, heated garage & vagcom.

Got it figured out.

Someone had monkey'd with the stop screw. It was down at least a half a turn too far.

The tapping noise was the engine choking on its own fumes, as the exhaust housing veins were tail to tip.

The vein arm and actuator rod, were in the correct position further down on the adjustment rod.

Runs like the proverbial raped date.

Going in for a UM engine and dsg flash this week.

We'll see how long this $1200.00 turd lasts

Thanks.

Best of luck with everything! I was setting here wracking my brain to try and think of what could have been wrong with your car, then I saw your 2nd comment. I'm glad you got her all figured out!