OK, so you have two problems... unrelated, mostly.
First, we still do not know the nature of your compressor failure. Sometimes, the clutch is bad, but the actual compressor may be just fine. Sometimes the compressor just blew up internally.
If the clutch or something related to it is bad, OR the compressor comes on, but does not "compress" properly, because its internal valving is bad (these are variable displacement), then there is likely no debris to speak of in the system, and you probably do not need anything else.
But if it really blew up, then yes you really should replace the condenser (first place out of the compressor the debris would go) and I'd also put a drier on (on the outlet side of the condenser). On the NBs, for whatever reason, the high side hose is also subject to internal failure (the one that goes from the compressor to the condenser). I have seen this numerous times, so much so that I would also recommend replacing that hose.
A word about condenser replacement: The NB is essentially just a 4th gen Golf/Jetta underneath, and as such, this job requires the front clip be removed, so that the lock carrier assembly be pulled loose. However, unlike the G/J where this is achieved with simply R&R of the bumper cover, the NB requires a little more work, as the entire "nose" of the car comes off in one big chunk, fenders and bumper cover come off together.
This seems like a huge deal, but it actually is very easy (hardest part is getting the headlights out... so if you can replace a headlight bulb... you can do this, LOL). I only say this because a lot of other shops, for reasons I cannot fathom, try to shortcut this, and just unbolt the front bumper cover leaving the rest on the car. This results in broken pieces and mangled fenders and bumper covers. I have had to go in and "unfix" so many NBs over the years because of this. So I would make sure the shop commissioned to do this work actually knows the proper way to do it, and won't mess your car up in the process.
I would also verify beforehand that BOTH cooling fans work on BOTH speeds, because not only is that a VERY common failure point, but also a VERY common reason why compressors blow up, and will be easy to replace with the car apart.
You will not need anything else inside the car to fix the A/C. The expansion valve I can pretty much guarantee is fine.
Now, your blowing foam: that is a common condition in which the doors on the HVAC case are starting to fall apart. When it gets really bad, you will lose heat, because the door that redirects the air back forward and around and through the heater core will no longer be able to do its job. The A/C will work fine, because the air is ALWAYS blowing through the evap core. But, if the temp door is totally bad... you won't be able to dial the temp up and the A/C will be on full cold all the time, which if it is working correctly, means you'll freeze after a while, as that car's A/C is capable of giving you an ice cream headache on a 100F day!
You can get in there, with some difficulty, and half way get some foam on the temp door, but I have found that there will also be foam coming apart on the mode doors, and in some cases the recirc door... which is why I like to just replace the whole case. Big job, dash has to come out, but not terribly difficult. And the nice thing is, the HVAC case comes with the new evaporator core already in it, so the ~20 years of gunk, because some stuff gets past the cabin filter no matter what (and more times than not those get neglected on the NBs especially), will have lessened the effectiveness of heat transfer on the core anyway. You'd be amazed how much gunk gets built up on those fins over the years.
If doing the HVAC case, the heater core has to be swapped over anyway, so we always put a new one of those in too.
But, that is a separate problem. You can remedy the outside stuff for now, get the system working again, and see how it goes. Just know that at some point in the future, that door foam problem will need to be addressed.
