Mk4 Rear Axle Beam Bushing Replacement Procedure

Anyone have a good procedure for doing this? I was thinking of just taking off the wheel and putting a jack under the coil and raising/lowering as necessary to work this out. I have seen that this can be a long job from others experience, but I don't see anything outlining how to do this.

I have the Lemforders on order... was kind of surprised that they didn't come in the suspension refresh kit on IDParts... made a note that it would a good option to add to that set.

I just drop the beam out and put it on sawhorses. It isn't necessary to do this, I know, but with a lift it only takes about 15 minutes, tops. Then I can be sure to clean up the mounting points and put the bolts in just snug so when I align it I can easily shift the beam around to get it dead-on then torque them down. Also a good opportunity to flush the brake fluid, replace the parking brake cables that are probably bad anyways, and if you are replacing the shocks or springs you're already there, too.

Davebugs sells a nice tool to do these. I have the 'official' VAG SST, but it doesn't really work all that great. And usually I end up just using the air chisel to get the old ones out anyways. I use an old cylinder hone to clean up the bore before I press the new ones in.

I think there are lots of ways people do these, so long as you get it done and back in properly the method you use isn't critical.

I don't have a lift, so that would be a bit more difficult for me. Here are my thoughts, as I already have the new shocks and springs on:

1) Lift the rear of the car and put it on jack stands, leaving it low enough that the tires are still on the ground, but enough clearance to get underneath and reduce the weight on parts.

2) Unbolt the rear axle beam at the bushing joint and bring that end down.

3) Knock the old bushings out (these things are really bad and I imagine I can get everything but the outer metal out by hand... then I will just use a chisel and hammer for that.

4) After leaving the new bushings in the freezer for a couple of hours, slide them in.

5) Reverse everything.

I don't know if I am missing anything that would keep this from working. Also, is there any kind of grease I should use on the outside of the bushings?

EDIT: I found this on VWVortex.

So, can I even do this or does everything really need to come off? The idea for using the C-clamp to press the bushing in is a good one, and the only lubricant used here was WD-40 to make install easier... nothing for "permanent" lubrication.

You don't have any pressing tools?

even makeshift tools will make the job easier. OK for trying to do the job yourself but In the long run you have to do it right. It is the suspension and that is important. Dave bugs has a loaner tool..

I don't have any specific tool for it. However, I have seen some use strut coil compressors to do the job, which I have on hand. As long as it gets in there all the way with proper internal alignment, it shouldn't be an issue, right?

EDIT: I was helping my brother-in-law at the local junk yard yesterday and there was a Mk4 Jetta there. I am thinking of just going and pulling the rear axle beam off of it... it will be about $30. I will just sandblast it, prime and paint... then press in the new bushing and install. We'll see... the VWVortex thread kind of inspired me. If I go that route, I will post some pictures.

Drop the beam even with davebugs tool the brake lines are too short!

Okay, I gave up on the taking the entire thing off, I still have lots of other things to do, and it seems that folks haven't found bushing that they like, so I may end up changing them in 100k miles anyhow. So, I put the thing on jack stands (still on tires, just relieved a bit)... and pulled the tire off on the side I was working on. unbolted both sides. Pulling out the bushing was cake... definitely worn. The sleeve was a pain, but the hacksaw did the job. I had the bushing in the freezer; not much help. I used a 8" c-clamp (pretty heavy duty, too) and the strut springs compressors together and got in one of the bushing and bent the c-clamp a bit. Other side is waiting... and I am not looking forward to it. I am thinking picking up a torch of some sort to heat the axle side and then just place the bushing that way. Not a fun day... I really want these on to see if my ride improves. I am tired of this clucking noise. I still have the entire front suspension to do, but the rear needed done first.

For the brake lines, just pull them off the hangers and work around them the best you can... it is good enough for me.

Alright... both bushings are on... now I can't get it mounted again... I have one side mounted and the other is off by about an inch. I have tried putting the mounted side down and using the jack to move it around. I can get it close, but not enough. Giving up for today.

EDIT: Okay, got a second wind after I decided to check yesterday's mail and found my N75 in there. Changed that out and went back to the suspension. I got to looking closer and the bushings weren't quite all the way in. So, I took the strut spring compressors and torqued them down and until they were flush all the way around... couldn't really see it, so I had to feel (since I left everything on the car). After that, it went on smooth. I was beginning to think my axle was bent, but looking at it, it appeared about as straight as one could expect.

Took it for a test run and it feels super nice. I was thinking that after I put on the shocks and springs that I may have went too beefy on my spring selection, but the bushings were the real issue and it is nice. On to the front suspension... but that will be in a couple of weeks at the earliest... next weekend is super busy... marching band competition for one kid, soccer game for another, and Oktoberfest in Cincinnati!

Does anyone have the torque specs for the rear axle bushing bolts? Thanks.

Right now, they are guten-tight.

I'm bringing this back from the dead. Has anybody heard from davebugs about his rear beam bushing tool? Does anyone have the tool available for loan for a couple days?

Another bump...

Regarding the torquing of the bushing bolts...

It is said to lower the car on the ground to load the bushings first: I think the recommendation is to do so with like 1/2 a tank of fuel. What I'd like to know is whether it's possible to just load things up by jacking on the axle to the point of it starting to bear the car's weight (still have jack stands in place).

My concern is with accessing the bolts with the wheels on the car and the car back on the ground.

Can't wait to be rid of that nasty clunking!

Axle stands under the rear hubs, blocks of wood, anything like that will allow it to be loaded up but leave room to get in and tighten things up.

When you lower the car to the ground, the axle sits at a certain angle to the body. You want to torque the bolt down with the axle at that angle so it doesn't bind up as the axle rotates up and down with bumps in the road.

If you need to the car up in the air to access the bolt, here is how to get the axle at that angle.

Lower car to ground.

Measure distance from center of rear wheel to fender lip. Let's say that measurement is 20". Note: I measure from the wheel center so, if needed, I can remove the wheel to get better access to the bolt.

Put your jack under the rear shock and jack up the car until the tire is off the pavement and all the weight is on the jack. Optionally, remove the wheel. Measure the wheel center to fender lip distance. Once it's at 20", the axle is at the same angle as when it was sitting on the ground. Reach under and tighten up the bolt.

Thanks guys. I actually picked up my Bentley's and peered into it Said to measure center of wheel to fender arch. When going to torque you'd raise the beam up until it's at that measurement and then torque the bolt.

Sadly, installation of the new bushings was a complete failure. Broken car and I've lost all motivation...

Anyone tell me whether this tool CAN work with Cupra R bushings?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volkswagen-...hash=item3cf7e8657e&item=261857240446&vxp=mtr

That's the tool I bought, and unless I'm not using it right it doesn't work. The large cup, which I figure is supposed to be on the outward side, doesn't appear to be recessed enough to handle the longer/fuller Cupra bushings. Here's a picture of two different bushings (a more stock one vs a Cupra) from Kerma's site:

http://www.kermatdi.com/seat-cupra-r-rear-beam-bushing-kit/

Be sure to use the right tool(s)!

Like, duh!

Confirmed after talking with Bora Parts. The bushing tool that I have won't work with Cupra Rs.

I ended up using a front wheel bearing shell (to give more cup) along with the bushing tool and the right side bushing sucked in/seated real well (just as I'd expected this operation should have gone to begin with!).

Now I'm wondering whether the bushing on the left side that has a cracked shell would still be viable. I'm thinking that that hard shell is just to provide a skin around the rubber so that when installed and when operating that the rubber isn't abraded (on the metal). Anyone know if that outer plastic really has all that much to do with structural integrity once the bushing is installed?

Finally got it done. I popped out the cracked replacement bushing (pretty easy, which is nice to know that if one has to do these again it'll be MUCH quicker) and put in a new one: many thanks to Bora Parts for getting another set of bushings out to me so quickly.

To sum up, it's not all that bad of a job leaving the axle in the car (can't see removing the axle being less work) , and, be certain that if you have a special VAG tool that it is capable of working with your bushing- not all bushings are the same!

Going to attempt this tonight. Bought Poly bushings to replace the OEM rubber ones.

tongsli said:

Going to attempt this tonight. Bought Poly bushings to replace the OEM rubber ones.

Click to expand...

Poly is not recommended for these particular bushings. The load that they take isn't conducive to the strength of Poly.

I'd recommend the Cupra R instead.

poormanq45 said:

Poly is not recommended for these particular bushings. The load that they take isn't conducive to the strength of Poly.

I'd recommend the Cupra R instead.

Click to expand...

They're going in, thanks for the recommendation.

"Learn from your mistakes" is so over rated.
I prefer to learn from someone else's mistakes.

Lito, Let me know what surprises you identify from this.
I have poly bushings in the back of the car already.
I hope to soon actually install them in the axle.


"The load they take isn't conducive to the strength of the poly."
Braking load? Lateral g load? There is a slight vertical load downward on the rear axle bushings due to the spring perch being slightly forward of the tire contact patch and creating a lever moment. There is also the weight of the beam, but the total vertical force is almost certainly less than that on the front strut bushing. The car is supported by the springs, not the (rear axle) bushings.

Cupra R? Are they firmer or ?

Lug_Nut said:

"Learn from your mistakes" is so over rated.
I prefer to learn from someone else's mistakes.

Lito, Let me know what surprises you identify from this.
I have poly bushings in the back of the car already.
I hope to soon actually install them in the axle.


"The load they take isn't conducive to the strength of the poly."
Braking load? Lateral g load? There is a slight vertical load downward on the rear axle bushings due to the spring perch being slightly forward of the tire contact patch and creating a lever moment. There is also the weight of the beam, but the total vertical force is almost certainly less than that on the front strut bushing. The car is supported by the springs, not the (rear axle) bushings.

Click to expand...

Darn rain...I really need a garage, but I want an electric car more.

Did you compress the rear spring or remove it?

L

I haven't done the bushing install. I was hoping that you'd do yours and advise me.

The factory method is to remove one bushing's through bolt and jack up the opposite rear wheel. This pivots the unbolted bushing down and clear of the attaching bracket to permit access to the bushing.

If you want an electric car: Fill the fuel tank with lead, add a 3 gallon jug for fuel and use an eye dropper to fill that jug. You'll have the same weight increase, driving range reduction and re-fill time increase as an electric car for a fraction of the cost.
Unless your power comes from hydro or thermal-solar you will also have a larger carbon footprint than just switching to bio from waste sources.
Yes, the entire cradle-to-grave of photovoltaic, nuclear, wind electric power is more carbon intensive than biodiesel from waste.
But now I'm really off topic of rear beam mounts......

Lug_Nut said:

I haven't done the bushing install. I was hoping that you'd do yours and advise me.

The factory method is to remove one bushing's through bolt and jack up the opposite rear wheel. This pivots the unbolted bushing down and clear of the attaching bracket to permit access to the bushing.

Click to expand...

That's an interesting tip. Is that in the Bentley manual? I don't recall seeing it, but then again I kind of went by a mix of things.

I know that unless you're disconnecting the brake lines, which I didn't do, you need to remove the right side bracket in order to drop the axle and bushing down w/o messing up the brake line. I "simplified" all of it by removing both brackets: make sure to scribe/mark how they were attached to the car's underbody.

Also, the Bentley manual states that you need to measure the height from the center axle to the fender lip (straight up) and that when you go to torque your bushing bolts back up you need to load up your axle to match. No idea whether this applies to newer style bushings such as the polys or the Cupra Rs.

AND, if you're going to use a bushing tool for installation MAKE SURE IT"S FOR THE BUSHING YOU"RE PUTTING IN, NOT THE ONE YOU"RE TAKING OUT.

When I installed the new rear bushings in the Golf I dropped the axle and removed it from under the car. It was much easier to get to the oil filled bushings to cut the rubber so you can cut the metal sleeve with a hacksaw. Granted you have to remove the brake hoses at the axle and bleed the brakes but from start to finish was only three to four hours. I had the correct bushing press to install the new ones. Good luck with your installation!

Well, today after work, I managed to jack up the car and modify the brake line bracket which is welded to the torsion beam.

I removed the clip, and cut a slot in the metal bracket. This allowed me to remove the brake line from the bracket without taking it apart.

Doing this will also allow you to remove the brake line from the rear beam to utilize the flex rubber line to the caliper.

It should be enough flex to push down the bushing below the bracket. That's all I had time for tonight. Tomorrow, I'll do the same for the other side and will try to replace both bushings.

I wonder if it would be easier to remove the (4) bolts into the body, remove the bracket leaving the beam where it is and work on the bushing where it sits? Has anyone tried this?

Well it took me 4 friggin hours to get the bushing out and then two hours to finish the job. What a PITA.

So one side is done. I'm not doing the other until I find a better tool to remove the bushing. Here are the highlights;

1. Made a channel on the bottom of the brake line bracket(welded to the beam) as wide as the brake line. This allows you to remove the brake line from the bracket and gain the flex you need to lower the torsion bar. The brake line pops out easily of the plastic clips on the torsion beam.

2. with the opposite side on rhino ramps, and the other on a jack stand(sitting on lift pad) the beam fell down enough to work on the bushing. Took the tire off for better access.

3.with the opposite wheel on the ground, jack stand on the side you're working, a jack under the spring moved the beam up and forward. Was able to get one side of the bushing and then the other.

4.Tensioned the spring measuring from top of hub to fender, torqued bolt 60ft lbs reinstalled wheel.

Sounds easy doesn't it? Ha ha ha ha (evil laugh) Too tired to go for a test drive. Must eat food after my 1/2-of-the-job-done victory shower.

Lito,
What did you use for an extractor / tool of destruction to remove the old bushing?
Were the urethane replacements in segments and any easier to install?