fuel shut of valve (n109)

grattanboy

Active member
Joined
May 21, 2004
Location
Western Michigan
TDI
98 Jetta tdi 02 Jetta tdi 03 Jetta tdi
On my way home from work when I noticed that I lacked a little power driving down the highway. Got home and put the Vag com on and got a
01237 Fuel shut -off valve (n109) 04-00 mechanical malfunction. What should I do first, I notice today that when I started me car it reved up then back down to idle. thanks Mike

98 jetta
 

jck66

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Jan 4, 2001
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Greenwich, CT, USA
TDI
12 Passat SE / 14 BMW 535d
It might just be the gasket that has become dislodged. This is a fairly well documented issue with the A3 Jetta TDI. Some poking around on the forums should give you more detail. Or maybe some kind Jetta-driving soul will chime in. :)
 

greenskeeper

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 10, 2003
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USA
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1998 Jetta TDI
fuel shutoff o-ring has probably fallen out of place. Happened twice on my 98 and I've only got 94k miles on it.

Easy to fix, a little hard to get at.

You need to remove all the injector lines.

The fuel cutoff solenoid is directly above where the injector lines go into the pump, can't miss it as it has a single wire going to it.

Need a crowesfoot wrench or be very skilled with channel locks to unscrew the valve.

Once you pull it out, you'll see the o-ring has probably slid down the shaft and won't allow the FCV to function properly.

carefully without loosing the o-ring push it back up the shaft to be snug with the base of the FCV.

Reassemble everything and you're back in business.

I can do it in about 15 min, but I've also done it more than once!
 

Toronto_Vento

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01 Baltic Green Bora
I just took mine out to check on the o-ring. I didn't have to take any of the injector lines off, but it shure would have helped. It's an 8mm nut at the top, and I think a 24 mm for the actual N109. I didn't have a 24mm at work (long story), so I tried a 15/16th wrench. If possible, use the correct size wrench, but gently using the 15/16th loosened the thing, and got it tightened up.
 

dave333

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Did own... None right now!
waaaaay, way cool info.... :D

this kind of readily available, intimate knowledge of our cars and motors is one of the main reasons I bought mine...
 

grattanboy

Active member
Joined
May 21, 2004
Location
Western Michigan
TDI
98 Jetta tdi 02 Jetta tdi 03 Jetta tdi
fuel shut off

Thanks for the info. My o-ring was in the right place when I pulled my valve Saturday. I made sure everything was clean when I put it back together. I still had the same problem of little power over 2000 rpm. Tapped on the valve and took it for another drive and the car was back to normal. I orderd another valve thinking the other one was sticking or dirty. thanks for the help.
 

paramedick

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Versailles, Kentucky
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2015 Audi Q5 TDI
Curiousity question.

Could this account for a 1Z that "hiccups (occasional miss)" at only cold idle? New behavior for the B4 for the last week or so.

Thanks, Bruce
 

Toronto_Vento

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Location
Richmond Hill, ON
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01 Baltic Green Bora
Bruce, technically, if the N109 doesn't open or close properly, it could mean that the fuel isn't being thrown into the engine at the right quantities. This check is one of those things which will take you 10-15 min tops to take a look at. Might be worth it just to see. If the o-ring is in place, and tapping it doesn't change anything, then it's obviously not the source of your issue. I pulled mine apart, as I said, because when the car is cold, and the temperature is below freezing, I can get a bit of an RPM spike when starting (something like to 1500-1600 RPM). The o-ring was lined up, and everything seemed to be fine on my N109, so obviously this is coming from something else.
 

MattBissell

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Jan 13, 2005
Location
Gilroy, California
TDI
2012 Golf DSG 4D Shark Blue
Drivbiwire is suggesting that this solenoid may be the route of my low power issues which I have been fighting for over a year, he says that I should replace it, anyone know where I can buy one? 1stvwparts.com brings it up but won't give a price or put it in the cart? Can't find on TDIparts.com or Impex. HELP!

Matt
 

danix

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Oct 5, 2000
Location
Raleigh, NC
TDI
None now. Former: 2011 335d, 2010 Jetta TDI, 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon. 99.5 Jetta TDI, 98 NB TDI, 3 different black 96 Passat TDI wagons.
No one has asked me for one before.
Part number appears to be 028130135F, and the number for the seal is 068130139. Both items appear to be dealer only, but I will make a call in the AM.
 

jck66

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Jan 4, 2001
Location
Greenwich, CT, USA
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12 Passat SE / 14 BMW 535d
I'm interested to hear if paramedick has any follow up to this as previously only Jetta owners have reported this problem. I can't imagine that the parts are that different between 1Z and AHU.
 

paramedick

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Haven't had time to follow up on it. AND, my tools are split between two houses right now. Guess where the big metric tools are?
 

paramedick

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I broke down and bought a 24mm wrench today. BTW, if you'll remove the bracket in the area of the N109, it's easy to access from the top.

The gasket was indeed slid down a bit. The other interesting thing is that the "plunger" assembly was separated from the top portion. It slid back into place, and I reinstalled it. Took a few seconds of cranking to start the car. I'll check for the miss in the morning when the car is thoroughly cold.

Is it common to find this plunger separated from the main body of the N109? Should I replace it?
 
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MattBissell

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2012 Golf DSG 4D Shark Blue
What kind of wrench do you mean a combo end wrench or a crow's foot? I have a 24mm socket but doubt it would work. You mean the bronzinsh bracket that fastens to the pump with 2 allen head screws? I was contemplating doing this without buying a new assembly but think for the $66 it's worth it to do it right once and replace the thing.

Matt B.
 

paramedick

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MattBissell said:
What kind of wrench do you mean a combo end wrench or a crow's foot? I have a 24mm socket but doubt it would work. You mean the bronzinsh bracket that fastens to the pump with 2 allen head screws? I was contemplating doing this without buying a new assembly but think for the $66 it's worth it to do it right once and replace the thing.

Matt B.
I used an open-end 24mm wrench, and had no difficulty when I removed the bracket you mentioned. My bracket was held on with one torx screw and 1 allen head screw. Two other torx screws were removed to allow free movement of the bracket. Once I moved it out of the way, easy removal. I doubt that you could get the proper angle with a socket.

Bruce
 

danix

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None now. Former: 2011 335d, 2010 Jetta TDI, 2003 Jetta TDI Wagon. 99.5 Jetta TDI, 98 NB TDI, 3 different black 96 Passat TDI wagons.
Keep us posted Bruce, good work. If this turns out to be a common problem I will try to source these from Europe at a better price.
 

paramedick

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Well, I'm happy to report no hiccuping this morning. However, it was only in the 50s this morning. Gotta see how it does on a cold morning.

EDIT: 5 degrees this morning. Started without a hitch or a hiccup. I deem this issue over. I will replace this, though.

Dan, if you get these, I will take one. The separated plunger assembly has me a little concerned.

Bruce
 
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MattBissell

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2012 Golf DSG 4D Shark Blue
Well I got a wrench today and pulled the solenoid, my o-ring and plunger were left in the pump as well. I re-installed the plunger and replaced the o-ring from my Bosch pump seal kit. Still have limp issue. PM'ed Drivbiwire to see if replacing the whole solenoid may be in order, does anyone know if the plunger falling out is bad or not? I believe what happens is that when the ignition switch is turned on it energizes the magnet in the solenoid to pull up the plunger and lets the fuel flow, if this wasn't working the car wouldn't start.

Matt
 

hsus2k

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Nov 16, 2004
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Ga, USA
TDI
Golf GL, 2003, Silver
Someone had ROUNDED off the nut portion of the solenoid!:eek:
I put the 24mm open wrench on, it was too large to turn. (it will strip or round off even more if I tried!)

I had removed the bracket and injector lines to have more room to work with. Super tighten a large Vise Grip, and still seems to (going to) slip, and the solenoid won't budge! I sprayed with a lot of penetrating oil and even use torch to heat and cool the materials to remove the solenoid, but without any luck!

Finally, and lucky I had the Triangle wrench for the injection pump.
I removed the top cover for the injection pump (which was held down by three torx and that "triangle" bolt. But even after I removed the pump cover, I still don't have enough room to put any tool on the solenoid.
So, I remove another threee (torx) bolts to remove top body of the injection pump! (I hope I didn't change any setting on the pump? At least it didn't look like it? The bottom of that section only have a rod on the bottom, and no adjectment or any springs of mechanical device I could see?)
Anyway, after all that. I was able to put the 24mm open wrech on the solenoid in a different position (better surfaces rather the rounded off surface for grip). and got the Solenoid of!:D

Now! after I pulled the solenoid out of the pump. The little tinny srping is still inside of the Solenoid, but the plunger and the O-ring is still in the Pump?

My questions: (this is for 1998 A3 Jetta 1Z/AHU engine)

1) IS the O-ring suppose to be on the body of the solenoid?
or if it is okay sitting there between in the pump and solenoid to make the seal between the two?

2) Is the plunger part of the solenoid? because mine came apart.

3) Any issues with my injection pump now, since I had taken to top cover and top half apart?

Any help will be appriciated!;)
thanks!

Dennis
 
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hsus2k

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Location
Ga, USA
TDI
Golf GL, 2003, Silver
Nevermind on O-ring issue. I've just got the complete solenoid, the O-ring is on the body and plunger came with it too (and it still comes apart from the main body)

After installed the fuel shut off solenoid and all the fuel lines, the car will not start? A first, I thought I was out of the fuel. But then, I added an electric fuel pump. (I think after I had opened the injection pump, and fuel lies; a lot of fuel had returned back to the tank?) Anyway, after pumping and see there are fuel on #1 injector. I still can't get the car started?

Could there be something in the injection pump caused this, because I had removed the top half of the pump? The only thing I saw on the bottom of the top half was a shaft with some sort of "dimpple"? I try to insert (aligned) with the cylinder below in the main body, which has a round indention?
Not sure what all controls or inside of the injection pump.
Has anyone evern opened one before? Right now I can't get the car started, and the batteries are dead. I might have to get a new battery, cause battery was in the car could not be charged anymore (over night)


Anyone? Help!
 
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paramedick

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2015 Audi Q5 TDI
I suspect that your injection quantity is way off. You need to loosen the bolts holding the middle section, slide it a tiny bit, snug the bolts, and try to restart. Might take several tries to get it running. After running, use VAG-COM to check the IQ. Loosen the bolts slightly and adjust to optimal setting.

One warning. If you go too far, the engine will start increasing RPMs on it's own. Be prepared to shut if off quickly.
 

hsus2k

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Nov 16, 2004
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TDI
Golf GL, 2003, Silver
paramedick,
Thanks for the help! I'm still stuck since yesterday!
And now, I'm confused? Are you referring the the three TORX bolts that's holding the "top" half body?
I did notice there are slots for the bolts on the housing. So, by actually "sliding" moving left to right, slightly actually changes the "quantity" of fuel?

Should I start far right and go towards left? I did notice there is a small hole on the "horizontal" shaft on the "main" body, below the top half?
The cylinder "slider" slides left to right.
So, was I doing it right by trying to place the top half of the vertical rod into the "hole" of the cylinder "slider"?

I guess I really don't know what I'm talking about?
So confused!
 
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hsus2k

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Nov 16, 2004
Location
Ga, USA
TDI
Golf GL, 2003, Silver
The cars fires up!

Okay, just ran to the basement garage.
Loosen the 3 torx bolts (the traingle bolt is already out), and slide the whole top half all the way to the right (facing the car).
And the car starts with a puff of smoke!

So, I guess towards the right is RICH and towards the left LEANS the fueling?
When you say set the IQ with VAG-COM, I assume you are referring to the FULL version of the VAG-COM software? (which I don't have, just the cable and free software for checking the codes)
Is it still possible to adjust "IQ" without the VAG-COM?

Thanks again!
 

paramedick

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Generally, sliding the IP towards the passenger side increases the IQ, which is reducing fueling. It's an inverse process. Smaller IQ number equals more fuel. In other words 2 is more fuel than 5. Strive to get it at 3.0 if you can.

Dunno whether VAG-COM unregistered version will allow you to see the IQ. If you can get to measuring block 1 (IIRC), there should be an IQ value there. You do have to have VAG-COM to set the IQ properly.

Yes, the little "nipple" goes in the hole in the shaft.
 

Havokk

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Apr 29, 2009
Location
Rhode Island
TDI
1998 Jetta
Well im about to remove my shut off valve to check the o ring. No power after 2000 rpm but does run well, says to me the solenoid is working fine. Sigh my car seems to like my attention because it keeps having me come back to work on it every other weekend :). Are these failiuers simply the result of age or could the adjustment of the ip timing case this? Also is it ok to drive the car if it seems to run well untill a new part comes in? Again the car runs very well and then no power at 2k.
 

fred3

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Feb 3, 2008
Location
Kutztown PA
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2001 Beetle
VW P/N: 028130135f = Bosch P/N: w0133-1620813 Can any one tell me if these fuel valves are the same?
 

Havokk

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1998 Jetta
No new parts needed, just had to move the o ring up the plunger again. Kick ass thread. :):)

i could not tell you if they are the same sorry.
 
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