OK, I did the brake job last night, and it seems that everything turned out well. I did not take as many pictures as I hoped. I was concerned about getting this job done, and hence did it in exceedingly crowded quarters in the garage. This being in case I had to bail mid-job and consult some TDIClub advice. I would just close the door and leave the Jetta there. Fortunately that was not the case, but as a result, I have fewer pics than I hoped. That said onto the task...
This job is actually pretty easy. I spent about 2 hours doing the first side, and 30 minutes on the second. This was after getting the wheels off and the rear up on jackstands. I was initially hesitant, and it took me some time of staring at things, reading the bentleys and what not to get going. I did the first side pretty slow obviously, and the next side was easy after doing it once. Hopefully some of the detail here will make it easier on those who may do it in the future.
Here are the tools needed:
Left to Right, Top to bottom, tools are:
- Screwdriver - I used a flat head to do some caliper cleaning (scraping) A Phillips is needed to remove the retaining screw on the rotor.
- Wire Brush - Used to clean the brake pad mounts, caliper piston head, caliper arms, and all the other dust/gunk laden things.
- Piston Windback Tool - Absolutely essential, this is a metalnerd model. The large wrench below it works with it to hold the plate in place while turning and depressing the piston.
- 15mm open ended wrench - This is used to hold the "caliper mount nut" (my words) while removing the caliper mount bolts.
- 8mm Allen Drive - Used to loosen the caliper carrier bolts to allow removal and insertion of the rotors.
- 13mm socket - Used on the Caliper bolts to remove the caliper from the carrier. (must hold the nut with 15mm while doing this)
- 17mm Socket - Used to remove wheel lugs
- Extension - needed to get the 13mm socket on the caliper bolt.
- Socket wrench
- Torque wrench - to torque the carrier allen bolts, caliper bolts and the lugs. 48,26,85 ftlbs respectively (from memory - double check!)
- Pliers - to actuate the emergency brake to allow cable removal.
OK, onto the work. I got into the job a bit before I remembered to take pics! Here we have two angles of the left rear brake assembly. The emergency brake cable has already been detached from the actuator.
So, The first thing you do is disconnect that brake cable. To do this, first you remove the retaining clip on the cable. (Not in any pics) Then you actuate the brake with your pliers, and work the cable out of the hold. You can then fish the cable out of the holder to free it from the caliper.
Next comes disconnecting the caliper, show in the following pic:
This carrier nut (closest to you) is 15mm and the bolt is 13mm. Hold the nut still while loosening the bolt. Remove the bolt. Repeat this on the bottom bolt as well.
When that is done, the caliper can come free from the carrier. It still is wrapped around the pads and rotor, so it takes some wrangling. Be aware of the brake line attatched to the caliper. You DO NOT want to stress this. There is enough cable to allow play, but be wary of creasing it, or dropping the caliper once free.
Once the caliper is out of the way (you can tie it up out of the way), you can remove the old pads. (No pic,sorry) They pull out towards the back of the car, or out to the side. The are a tight fit, so take your time.
Once the pads are out, you need to remove the rotor. To do this, you will have to remove the retaining screw in the rotor. (same alignment as lugs) It is a phillips head. Then, you need to loosen the carrier to allow the rotor to come out over the hub. You only need to loosen it. This next pic shows me loosening the carrier bolts with an 8mm hex (allen) head socket.
EDIT: It's been determined that loosening the carrier is not needed to get the rotor out.
Repeat this on the other bolt, just loosening a bit. once this is done, and the retaining screw removed, you should be able to get the rotor out from the carrier.
EDIT: Once again, It's been determined that loosening the carrier is not needed to get the rotor out.
At this point you will want to do some cleaning. Clean the pad mounting surfaces. There is an metal shim that on that surface that is a bit delicate so take your time. clean the caliper mating surfaces (where the caliper will grab the pads) so that they are clean and smooth. You may want to wear a respirator at this point, as brake dust is nasty stuff.
To replace the rotors and pads, you essentially go in reverse order. You do have to have to windback the caliper piston. So...
Put the new rotor in, installing and tightening the retaining screw. (Unknown torque)
Tighten and torque the carrier hex head bolts.
Install the new pads. Press them flush against the rotor, and ensure they are in all the way. There are little stop tabs on the pad housing.
Windback the piston on the caliper. Before you do this, you will want to check your fluid level under the hood. Winding back the piston drives fluid back into the cylinder, and if yours is capped and full, that could lead to problems. I just popped the cap on mine, so there would be room. When I was done, I checked the level, which was above max. I used a baster to suck some out. The windback tool takes some figuring to get it going, but works easily. Metalnerd's tool worked great and is super beefy. Others are available.
Once the piston is wound back, you can install the caliper over the new pads. Mine barely fit, so make sure you wind it all the way back. Be wary of the carrier nuts, which are on flexible sleeves. They have to be pressed in a bit to allow the caliper to go over them.
Install the Caliper bolts (13mm) holding the carrier nuts (15mm)still. Torque to spec.
Reinstall and attach the emergency brake cable.
Reinstall the retaining clip for the cable.
OK that side is done. Now do the other side of the car. (Pad installation, and/or rotor installation, must be done on a per axle basis.)
Once both sides are done, check your fluid level and adjust as needed, recapping the resevoir.
Test drive.
When I first started up, the pedal sank to the floor. Only once though. I suspect this is the piston readjusting to the new pads. From there everything was fine. My pads came with a warning saying no hard braking for 200 miles. Your mileage may vary.
I will report in in a while to let you know how they are doing.
You migh also be interested in my fluid change post
available here.