2006 Jetta air conditioner

redbarron55

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Before you spend a lot of money try ICE32 to lubricate the valve and compressor. see post under delay on starting.
I had similar problems and the fans will not start until the pressure is higher. If the compressor is in low output mode (swash plate stuck low - valve output low) then the A/C will blow hot.
If your VCDS shows the .82A then the vlave should be driving the swash platt to high output, but the compressor/valve is not responding.
I tried ICE32 on a suggestion on the other thread and it works!
It might not work for you, but it worked for me.
Cooling starts very soon after I start the car.
Also in the unlikley case that the air temp is satisfied and the compressor is driven low (low current to the A/C valve) then it will go back to high.
This is why it may work OK for a while and then stop.
The 3 oz. can of ICE32 with 1 oz. of R134A to propel was ~ $30.00 from NAPA.
Try it you might lke it.
 
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zleem60

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He told me $60 for the RCV and about 1/2 labor to install. To evac and refill was $150.
Salombum,

Will the dealership sell the RCV by itself? I have a friend that's a certified mechanic for GM and he will replace it for me for a much better price than dealership with labor. If you get it replaced, can you post a part # so we can try to find it online?

Thanks,
Mike
 

richbking

Active member
Joined
Jul 19, 2006
Ok so I've been reading and reading and reading the AC delay posts for quite some time now. I thought I'd post after trying some of the things listed in various posts. I definitely didn't want to go down the road of replacing the compressor. I got the delay about 6 months ago and the delay got progressively worse to the point of not cooling at all. After a month of sweating in the Florida heat, I broke down and bought a new RCV. Here is a link for anyone wondering http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/101847229.html. The valve is easy to replace and the compressor doesn't need to be removed.
I recharged the system and the AC was definitely improved. After about one month, I started getting the delay again. The low side pressures would fluctuate from 45-90 psi.
I went out and bought a can of the ICE32 and put it in the system.
I also read the post below (#91 from the 2006 Jetta air conditioner thread) and tried the initialization and I can tell you that the system low side pressure is stable and the air is colder than it has been in a long time. Hope this helps for anyone going down this road.
I've been experiencing these delays in a/c operation the last two months, I have been researching a lot on this matter but nothing is conclusive of the causes of these delays, in my case they happen more often in the morning in the first start, up to 5-6 minutes in delay of cooling, I read that in Audi's you have to perform basic settings of the N298 aka Refrigerant Control Valve and that you start basic settings for this pushing the ECON plus the rear window defogger switch in climatronic panel.
Yesterday I had a delay of almost 10 minutes so what I did is initiate this basic setting when the delay was present and voila!! the compressor started pumping and cooling, but what surprised me was that it cooled a lot better then before.
Today the a/c worked almost inmediately at startup so I don't know if this was coincidence or if actually cured the problem.
I already ordered a new n298 valve at ACTION-ac.com for the Zexel compressor that I will change anyways to rule out sticking valve problem.
So for those of you that are having these delays it won't cost you to try this, please post if you have same results.
 
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zleem60

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richbking,

Will give it a try tomorrow for sure. I always thought my problem is the RCV valve. But it might just need a basic settings done. Who knew. I'll let you know what happen tomorrow. Keep my finger cross because I've been dropping $20 on Freon every other weekend trying to figure out what's wrong with it.
 

Salmonbum

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Dryden\Ludington, MI
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'06 Jetta
I stopped by a NAPA to buy the ICE32 and they didn't have any. Where else can I get it? Is this something I can just add into the system?
 

zleem60

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Try Autozone, they had the straight Ice32 Pag 46 oil in 8Oz bottle. They didn't have any of the 134a with ICE.
 

Salmonbum

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'06 Jetta

zleem60

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Salmonbum,
I don't know if that's the same people that makes ICE32. I did not use that kind. You only want to add an ounce or less. Unless you plan on removing your compressor and drain the old oil and replace it new oil. Than add the appropriate amount for your compressor. usually about 3 ounce. Good luck.
 

Salmonbum

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'06 Jetta
Salmonbum,
I don't know if that's the same people that makes ICE32. I did not use that kind. You only want to add an ounce or less. Unless you plan on removing your compressor and drain the old oil and replace it new oil. Than add the appropriate amount for your compressor. usually about 3 ounce. Good luck.
http://www.idqusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=PC-1
I found the same suff in your pic, but in a can (not a bottle) that is only 3 oz. How do I only put an oz in?
 

zleem60

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This was the same can I've used to try to get the RCV to stop sticking. It did not work for me, I really think my problem is with the RCV. I should be receiving RCV this week. Hopefully that'll fix my problem. You can use the whole can just make sure you're not over filling your freon level. Make sure your have your gauages on both low and high pressure. That stuff worked for other people, just not for me. Good luck
 

redbarron55

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Navarre, FL.
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I received the new valve today and now I need time to evacuate the system and replace.
When this is done I intend to carefully evaluate the old valve and see if I can determine what is causing the problem.
The screen on the new valve is VERY fine. Any sludge or varnish from oil breakdown due to heat may tend to coat the screen.
A close look is warranted.
My guess is that and metal that would pass through this would pass through the valve as well.
That same crud would possiblu make the valve stick as well. (If it is the problem.
Our problem came on all at once, probably when the rubber flapper came off the radiator shroud. The air conditioner started not cooling at rest and slow speed and since that time has exhibited the delay even after the flapper was replaced.
The ICE 32 seemed to fix the problem completely, but the occasional delay still happens.
I think that when the air conditioner reaches it's setpoint and the valve dials the displacement back it sometimes takes a while recover.
I will see if I can post some photographs after and while the work is being done.
My valve is the early type that is held in place with an snap ring and not a bolt.
 

zleem60

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ok, I just got the new RCV and install it, evacuate the system and replaced with new freon. Low and Behold, The AC started to blow cold within 30 seconds. The time and money spent was well worth it to figure out that it was not the compressor that failed. But a $50 part that went bad cause the ac to delay coming on. So glad that it is finally fixed. Thanks for all those that have put in the time and effort in helping me diagnose the problem. @ DanG, redbarron55 thanks for all your help!
 

redbarron55

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I just looked at the Bentley manual and the "basic setting" of after the compressor has been changed ( I assume if the RCV has been changed as well ot ICE32 has freed up the vlave).
The process is as follows.
Again I assume what I say is properly interpreted.
Start the car with the A/C off (ECON mode?)
Let the idle stabilize.
turn the temp to max cold
turn on the A/C and give it five min. to go through it's setting process.

The actual words are below.
  • Note:
  • Note the following when starting engine for first time after filling refrigerant circuit:
  • Start engine with A/C compressor switched off ( "ECON" mode) and wait until the idling speed stabilizes.
  • Open an instrument cluster air vent.
  • Select temperature preset "Lo" on A/C Control Head E87 .Now switch A/C compressor on ( "Auto" mode) and allow engine to run for 5 minutes at idling speed.
The instruction are a little cryptic, but this is what I just did. Ocassionally my system will still take a holiday. particularly if it is very hot. I will see if this helps and report.
I still have not had a chance to change the RCV I bought.
 
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redbarron55

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I have driven the car around 50-60 miles and it seems better or at least I did not feel the A/C lose cooling while driving, but it was below 93F.
It is possible that the adaptation keeps the current adjusted to keep from closing the valve too much and possibly sticking or closing too much for the conditions of temperature and head pressure of the compressor.
We shall see what we see!
 

carlosabh

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Aug 18, 2011
Location
El Paso TX
TDI
Jetta
ok, I just got the new RCV and install it, evacuate the system and replaced with new freon. Low and Behold, The AC started to blow cold within 30 seconds. The time and money spent was well worth it to figure out that it was not the compressor that failed. But a $50 part that went bad cause the ac to delay coming on. So glad that it is finally fixed. Thanks for all those that have put in the time and effort in helping me diagnose the problem. @ DanG, redbarron55 thanks for all your help!
Hey thanks for posting this! At least now I know that replacing the RCV will fix my A/C !! The RCV is getting here on tuesday so maybe I'll be changing it next weekend, hopefully I will be posting positive results next week here!!
Thanks Zleem
 

john_tsouris@hotmail.com

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Location
Tampa
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None now, thank god
I didn't read all of these posts, but if you have the delayed AC issue your compressor is bad, and it will get worse.

This problem is VERY OFTEN directly caused by one or both of your radiator fans not working. Engine on, parked, AC on full, both fans should be on, period. CHECK THIS AT EVERY OIL CHANGE!!!!!!!!

Also, don't replace your fans, they get road crud in the brushes and are easily cleaned in about 30 minutes. My cleaned brushes fans have worked for over 70,000 miles.

Now.... loss of fans will cause the immediate destruction of your compressor. I had an electrical problem which took both fans out when the car was in limp mode. Symptom is no cold air unless you are driving down the road..... as the fans cool the radiator when you are stopped with the engine on. I only drove like this for fifteen minutes, and stopped at maybe three or four red lights. I fixed the problem immediately but I now have the delayed AC problem on my NEW compressor.
 

redbarron55

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I think that the combination of high head pressure and heat may cause this problem. My A/C was working perfectly until the flapper on the shroud came off and the fans would not adequately pull air through the condenser coil.
Perhaps the calibration on the valve is lost or the oil varnishes and makes the valve sticky.
Personally I think that if the compressor will develop the proper pressures and temps then is is OK.
I installed the ICE32 and have ordered the valve, but not yet installed it.
I read the reset procedure listed above and I wonder if the readpation of the computer to the comtressor, valve, pressures and temps will get things back to normal.
I would suggest trying the reset and let us know if it helps.
Also the pressure rating of the compressor is way above the likey pressure of running the compressor with the air flow off.
My guess is that the computer will dial back the RCV to limit the pressure/temp.
This is a likley cause of the problem.
It is possible that the addition of the ICE32 is not as related to the rejuvenation as the slight changes in pressure, although it probably would not hurt. It seemed to help in my case, but the system would still take the occasional holiday.
I will have a chance ot try after doing the reset listed in the Bently manual since I have a drive from Akron back to Mobile later this week.
 

carlosabh

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Location
El Paso TX
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Jetta
I didn't read all of these posts, but if you have the delayed AC issue your compressor is bad, and it will get worse.

This problem is VERY OFTEN directly caused by one or both of your radiator fans not working. Engine on, parked, AC on full, both fans should be on, period. CHECK THIS AT EVERY OIL CHANGE!!!!!!!!

Also, don't replace your fans, they get road crud in the brushes and are easily cleaned in about 30 minutes. My cleaned brushes fans have worked for over 70,000 miles.

Now.... loss of fans will cause the immediate destruction of your compressor. I had an electrical problem which took both fans out when the car was in limp mode. Symptom is no cold air unless you are driving down the road..... as the fans cool the radiator when you are stopped with the engine on. I only drove like this for fifteen minutes, and stopped at maybe three or four red lights. I fixed the problem immediately but I now have the delayed AC problem on my NEW compressor.
The a/c system does have a high pressure sensor that shuts down power to compressor when refrigerant pressure is more then 280psi, the compressor is rated for a static pressure of 350psi, so I don't think that a radiator fans failure would damage the a/c compressor it would just be shut down, nothing more. my car's a/c pressures when it is working are 215 high, 35 low consistently so when it is working the pressures are just normal, a damaged compressor won't achieve normal pressures. People that has changed the RCV report immediate back to normal performance, there are posts elsewhere that say that in places that rebuild these compressors they don't have any more damage then a failing RCV and that is what those get new, a good cleaning and the compressors perform again like new.
So hopefully the problem with this a/c systems just are these failing RCV's, I just don't want to have to buy new compressor, condenser, expansion valve etc etc to fix my car, so fingers crossed.........
 

farnhamassoc

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06 Jetta tdi, 09 TDI SPORTWAGEN 2011 Audi a3 TDI. VW caddy turbo diesel... Various vw split window busses
Note to all: All 2006 TDI Jetta people with A/C problems. Most of them stem to 2 things but usually one is the problem. The original mechanic was right. It is the compressor more than 90% of the time. Check to see if both fans turn on. If they do then save yourself some greef and hours trying to figure it out , get off your fat wallet and thin it out by putting on a new compressor. People always try to find other things that can be the problem and it is so hard to diagnosis so trial and error work well in this case. Be sure to put in the correct amount of freon. Here are the simple steps to diagnosis of your compressor issue. Check the static pressure of your system. It should be around 70-80 lbs. Check to see if both fans after a short delay turn on. If they do it is probably the compressor. They are a faulty design with the variable pressure system and fail often.(sorry you German engineers but your idea or A/C sucks learn from the Americans) Yes I put on the cheapest made in china one I could and it works great cost around $400. The Sanden Failed for those of you German parts only people. Just remember what I am telling you about the correct amount of freon. If you over or under charge the system by an ounce or 2 the system will not cool correctly. The A/C on these is crappy at best so make sure it is right.
 

zleem60

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For those of us that would like to fix the problem without shelling out $400 AC from China or $465 new Sanden compressor. I will give my account to everything I've done to fix my problem. Since my AC would work after a 10 minute delay. You can ask any mechanic out there, if the AC is not working, it would not blow cold air at all. So I just went through the process and got new parts for my Jetta. Since it is a 2006 with 160K miles on it. Things are going to go bad. Which is why I didn't think much about replacing the fans and such.

1. Check to see if freon pressure is correct.
2. Check to see if both fans are blowing if not, fix the fan problem. If fan is toast, buy new ones. See how to fix the fan from DanG's post. http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/517/Fan_Repair.pdf
3. Replace High pressure switch.
4. Try to reset to basic initiation by Pressing Econ button along with the rear defrost for 5+ seconds together .
4. Replace Refrigerant Control Valve (if Sanden Compressor)
If that still didn't fix my problem, then I would shell out $465 for new compressor.
5. Replace the AC. (with new AC, you will replace the drier and expansion valve)

But fortunately, by changing out a sticky RCV, you guess it made it China. The AC comes on in less than 5 seconds and in Arizona 106 degrees today.

The people selling the compressor are not willing to sell the RCV because they figure they get the core back, replace a $25 RCV part, test it, and resell for remanufacture for $400. That's a pretty good game they got going.

So for those of you that thinks you might need a new compressor, try replacing the RCV first and see if it fixes it. If it didn't, only cost you $25 and a new compressor is needed. But if it did fix the problem. Wow, you just save yourself $375!

Good luck. I did use ICE32 and my AC is colder than ever. Even in Arizona summer, I set my AC to 70 degrees. After 10 minutes in my car, the fan drop from high, to low medium. It's never been that cold since I bought the car in 2008.
 

redbarron55

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Navarre, FL.
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2012 Touareg TDI Executive
I have a question about the reset posted here. What is the rear defrost in the stock Climatic Sportwagen?
My car has defrost, but not specified as rear.
It also does not hace and ECON button only A/C which in looking at the parts breakdown in the Bently manual must be the same thing.
I have posted the procedure listed in the Bentley manual, but it has nothing I have found about the rear defrost.
I assume that this applies to cars I am not familiar with.
Just wondering.

Thanks,

JDB
 

zleem60

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If you don't have fan problem, then the two items to check or replace are: RCV valve on your compressor or the high pressure valve in the refrigerant line. I replaced them both. Pick one and try it. My compressor was a new one from Sanden and the RCV sticks after one year. Best to pay $25 vs. $400. Good luck

I didn't read all of these posts, but if you have the delayed AC issue your compressor is bad, and it will get worse.

This problem is VERY OFTEN directly caused by one or both of your radiator fans not working. Engine on, parked, AC on full, both fans should be on, period. CHECK THIS AT EVERY OIL CHANGE!!!!!!!!

Also, don't replace your fans, they get road crud in the brushes and are easily cleaned in about 30 minutes. My cleaned brushes fans have worked for over 70,000 miles.

Now.... loss of fans will cause the immediate destruction of your compressor. I had an electrical problem which took both fans out when the car was in limp mode. Symptom is no cold air unless you are driving down the road..... as the fans cool the radiator when you are stopped with the engine on. I only drove like this for fifteen minutes, and stopped at maybe three or four red lights. I fixed the problem immediately but I now have the delayed AC problem on my NEW compressor.
 

zleem60

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JDB,

I don't think the reset pertains to non climatronic AC units. Sorry for the confusion. Just in case, here's a pic of my ac controls:

https://picasaweb.google.com/113174...key=Gv1sRgCNrD7dTI05WPjgE#5649284781386637362

I have a question about the reset posted here. What is the rear defrost in the stock Climatic Sportwagen?
My car has defrost, but not specified as rear.
It also does not hace and ECON button only A/C which in looking at the parts breakdown in the Bently manual must be the same thing.
I have posted the procedure listed in the Bentley manual, but it has nothing I have found about the rear defrost.
I assume that this applies to cars I am not familiar with.
Just wondering.

Thanks,

JDB
 

redbarron55

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Navarre, FL.
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The quote I posted is from the Bentley DVD on the Climatic system.
That says nothing about the demist or defrost.
It says start the engine (with the A/C off) and let the idle stabilize.
Then turn on the A/C and turn the temp to low.
Wait 5 min.
I think that this resets the control system to put the stroke at the prper point for modulation. (Maybe)
I carried out this procedure yesterday and it worked better.
Today the Temp was30F lower (65-70 vs 90-100) and one thing I noticed was the mileage was much better. from ~42 to 48 (HWY).
Perhaps the system has to calibrate the pressure on the compressor to be properly OFF?
As above I fail to see how the compressor can be bad if it generated the proper pressures (eventually).
If you consider that the compressor includes the valve the it is bad, but mostly I think it is mostly the valve that causes the problem.
Also I think that there is a calibration problem with the system which will aggravate the situation. But when the CPU is calling for high output 0.82 Amps that compressor should immeadiately give full stroke and max output.
If the valve is sticking it will take several min to pony up the goods.

JDB
 

ILowNslowI

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Mar 29, 2011
Location
Texas
TDI
2006 TDI Jetta
well, $982 later I HAVE FREEZING COLD A/C...

took the car in friday because the a/c was not cooling at all...used to take a solid 5-10min of driving for the a/c to cool(typical 06 TDi) then it finally quit on me. Took it to local v-dub dealer & they replaced the compressor. Expensive but its almost blows snowballs its that cold now.
 

zleem60

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Replacing the compressor is always a good thing. but $982 a bit stiff. At Discountacparts.com, the compressor is only $565 with drier and expansion valve.
 

DanG144

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Chapin, South Carolina, USA
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$982 is the best price I have heard from a dealer. It is usually $1200 or more from an AC place or a dealer. This is assuming they replaced the drier and expansion valve - they normally do.
 
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