kooyajerms
grocery getter
- Joined
- May 5, 2004
- Location
- Pomona, Southern California
- TDI
- 97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
I wanted to contribute somehow, and even though I didn't do the write up, I wanted to give y'all some pictures. I say again, I didn’t create this, I’m just giving sight to what’s been said.
Stig got this from Vortex
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?C...&PHPSESSID=
This is the write up for fixing the ignition switch by removing the whole steering column, very simple. No need for a gear puller or cutting of the collar. Hope this helps everyone looking to fix their ignition problems
Here is some symptoms of why you need your ignition switch changed.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?C...true#Post997483
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?C...&PHPSESSID=
Here is what you need to buy, cheapest place I know of, www.rockauto.com Here is a picture of the item. 10 dollars with shipping. PN# 6N0905865
<font color="blue"> Here is what you will need
New Ignition switch PN# 6N0905865
10mm socket or wrench
5mm allen wrench
24mm socket
13mm socket and wrench
normal size and thing long Phillips screwdriver
normal flat head screwdriver </font>
Ok let's get started.
First get your wheels straight, steering wheel straight
Now, let's remove the ground from your battery. 10mm nut. (Get your radio code now if you want to be ready to turn it back on when you are done).
Here is your steering wheel!
Here is the steering wheel plastic cover . Man I don't know what to call these things! Two screws one on each side, then pull the two pieces apart.
Here is a picture of the underside of the knee protecting dash section (yeah that's the technical name). I believe there are 5 or 6 phillips screws, take em out and yank this part downwards.
Time to remove the airbag, now remember, you did take the ground off, there’s no power going to your bag right? Take these two allen bolts out (you don’t have to pull them all the way out). Then you will pull the air bag out slowly. (There is a wire you need to unplug to take it out fully).
Now I know what he meant when he was being extra careful, you’re holding your airbag in your hand! It’s not complicated, just pull it straight out, and you will be fine. Place the airbag somewhere to the side, looks sexy!
here is bag with plug off.
here is where I made my mark with my permanent marker. When you put your column back in, this will be a good place to guide yourself to where it should be. (your hands will start getting greased up with all the work you will be doing to get it in place, well that was me, so this mark may get rubbed out hehe)
Remove the second plug to the airbag, here behind the wheel (yellow and white). The other connectors will be taken off later.
Here is where you will remove your steering wheel. 24mm bolt, pretty shallow so be careful not to strip it. Pretty tight, and deep in so you will probably need an extension. Do what you need to break it loose. After this bolt is off, slowly with your hand holding the back of the wheel (to keep the clockspring intact and not falling out) pull the wheel off. The spring isn’t trying to bounce out, but just don’t let it fall out. Keeping the wheel horn side down is fine.
Wheel hornside down, chillin.
Here is your column with the turn signal, lights, wipers, etc etc. A couple screws to take out, and connectors. Right there in the middle is your adapter collar that everyone does the cut or pull to. We get to leave it alone.
Here are the connectors for your light stalk. Remove them with a pinch and pull.
Here are the connectors for your wiper stalk. Do the same. Remove all your connectors you can see.
Here are the three flat head screws and a Phillips to remove.
Here is the stalk being removed. The torx screw on the wiper stalk you won’t have to worry about. Nothing is holding it in, just pull it off also. I’d do a little wipey wipey on these things.
Here are all connectors off. Don’t worry, they are pretty straight forward of where they will go into again. The bend stays pretty well so they line up where they should.
There is your ignition, and behind the key, look. There is the ignition switch! If only that switch we could remove from here, but nope that screw is in an awkward position.
Let’s remove that connector, See that pale yella thing, that’s your switch!
Now it’s time to get this steering column out. We need to go under and pull some of the plastic covers so we have better access. Most of them come out with your fingers, you’ll see.
Here are the two I took off.
There is your nut and bolt you need to remove (bronze). Taking all the plastic covers off is good now because you are gonna have some weird angles to get the bolt off and back in.
13mm bolt and nut. Top of bolt I used my wrench to hold it, then I used my ratchet on the bottom, Then I popped the bolt out.
Shear bolt on column, he said it was hand tight, but I had to get a little grunt on it. Then it came out easily. I used my vise to put a grip on it. Putting it back in, I didn’t tighten it much.
Give it a nice tug, don’t worry, it’s gotta get off the teeth. steering column out. Should be a spring that was on the bottom of the column that hooked up where that bolt was. You’ll see it.
There is the freakin enemy! Look! See that screw, bad access, use your thin thin Phillips to get at this. You will be bending the column back and reaching in. Don’t worry so much about how you get at it, just get that screw out and pull that switch! I held it between my legs, upside down, pulling it up and me upside down screwing it out. It was a sight to behold
Replaced ignition switch, oh its so sweet. Get that screw in. If you compare the prongs, the old one had one missing? Not sure if it broke off and was the culprit, or it just wasn’t there. Eh What ever.
Ok now is the fun stuff. Getting it back in is what took me some time. It was getting dark too. I eventually started working in the dark, with a flash light. Most of the time you’re just going to feel it place itself back in.
You will be putting your replaced switch and shaft back in. To turn the shaft, you can put your key in the ignition and turn it.
Ok so put the shaft in, line it up to where you replace your shear bolt, slide it half way in. Look at the bottom, and if you see where you had your 13mm bolt lock the shaft in, you gotta do it again.
Now My shaft had a bit of a groove where the bolt was holding it, not sure if that’s for everyone but that was my guide to where it should line up again. If that isn’t lined up when you put it back in, you won’t be able to get that bolt back in.
This is where the frustration started. I couldn’t line it up correctly and had to keep pulling it out, then starting over. The teeth have to line up correctly, and there isn’t much space down there for you to get it in easily. Remember to place that spring back on the shaft too. That’s what makes it wiggle out and then start yourself over.
Get that bolt in, get that shear bolt back to where it was. Tighten that up. Boom now reinstall everything in reverse order. Do your diligence, make sure everything is hooked up correctly etc etc, then you won’t have to open it up again.
-put the connectors back in
-put the stalks back in
-screws back in
-steering wheel back in
-airbag back in
<font color="blue">
Steering wheel time. Hold the clock spring together, and keep that airbag connector at 0700 so it will fit in the plastic cover. I messed up here, and couldn’t remember where to put it in the teeth for the straight wheels (When taking the bolt off, I turned the wheel a bit, so it was offcenter) So just get it back where it should be, I’m maybe a couple teeth off, an my wheel just looks like its crooked. Doesn’t bother me so much.
Hook that airbag back up, put it in. close up your plastic covers, dash guards etc etc.
-Place your key in the ignition, on ON. THEN go to the battery and hook up your ground to your battery again. Yeah this is the paranoid you may get hit in the face with your airbag that worried me the whole time, but I made it with some prayer and laying on hands on the car. Hahaha
-Ok Turn the car on. Woo headlights working. No brakelight/headlight confusion.
The ignition now seems to have a stiffer turn to it? Is that because the switch? Who knows. But it’s not as loose as it used to be.
-Radio goes to safe, install your radio code. Check your papers call the dealer.
Once you turn the power back on afterward, the radio will display SAFE for a few moments and then show four zeros. Press the station preset button 1 to set the first digit. Press station preset 2 to set the second digit, etc. Once the code is correct, press and hold the right Seek button >> to enter.
Or For the 97 ("Deluxe" and "Premium"), 93-97:
1) Turn on the radio and press the MODE and SCAN button simultaneously and hold them down until "1000" appears in the display. Release the buttons!
CAUTION-Do not continue to hold the MODE & safe buttons after "1000" appears or press them again. This would enter the number "1000" as the input code number.
2) Use station buttons 1 to 4 to input the correct anti-theft code number. Use button 1 to input the first digit, button 2 for the second, and so on.
3) Once the anti-theft code is shown in the display, hold the MODE and SCAN buttons down until the word "safe" appears in the display. Release buttons! Soon afterward, a radio frequency will be displayed and the radio will be operational.
The 98 & 99 will display "safe" when turned on, then after about 3 seconds "1000" will be displayed.
This is per the Bentley Service Manual.
</font>
There you go guys. This is in accordance to all the posts I read, and help from Stig, Toronto Vento, Bookerdog, Rdkern, turbotone. Woo woo.
Stig got this from Vortex
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?C...&PHPSESSID=
This is the write up for fixing the ignition switch by removing the whole steering column, very simple. No need for a gear puller or cutting of the collar. Hope this helps everyone looking to fix their ignition problems
Here is some symptoms of why you need your ignition switch changed.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?C...true#Post997483
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?C...&PHPSESSID=
Here is what you need to buy, cheapest place I know of, www.rockauto.com Here is a picture of the item. 10 dollars with shipping. PN# 6N0905865
<font color="blue"> Here is what you will need
New Ignition switch PN# 6N0905865
10mm socket or wrench
5mm allen wrench
24mm socket
13mm socket and wrench
normal size and thing long Phillips screwdriver
normal flat head screwdriver </font>
Ok let's get started.
First get your wheels straight, steering wheel straight
Now, let's remove the ground from your battery. 10mm nut. (Get your radio code now if you want to be ready to turn it back on when you are done).
Here is your steering wheel!
Here is the steering wheel plastic cover . Man I don't know what to call these things! Two screws one on each side, then pull the two pieces apart.
Here is a picture of the underside of the knee protecting dash section (yeah that's the technical name). I believe there are 5 or 6 phillips screws, take em out and yank this part downwards.
Time to remove the airbag, now remember, you did take the ground off, there’s no power going to your bag right? Take these two allen bolts out (you don’t have to pull them all the way out). Then you will pull the air bag out slowly. (There is a wire you need to unplug to take it out fully).
Now I know what he meant when he was being extra careful, you’re holding your airbag in your hand! It’s not complicated, just pull it straight out, and you will be fine. Place the airbag somewhere to the side, looks sexy!
here is bag with plug off.
here is where I made my mark with my permanent marker. When you put your column back in, this will be a good place to guide yourself to where it should be. (your hands will start getting greased up with all the work you will be doing to get it in place, well that was me, so this mark may get rubbed out hehe)
Remove the second plug to the airbag, here behind the wheel (yellow and white). The other connectors will be taken off later.
Here is where you will remove your steering wheel. 24mm bolt, pretty shallow so be careful not to strip it. Pretty tight, and deep in so you will probably need an extension. Do what you need to break it loose. After this bolt is off, slowly with your hand holding the back of the wheel (to keep the clockspring intact and not falling out) pull the wheel off. The spring isn’t trying to bounce out, but just don’t let it fall out. Keeping the wheel horn side down is fine.
Wheel hornside down, chillin.
Here is your column with the turn signal, lights, wipers, etc etc. A couple screws to take out, and connectors. Right there in the middle is your adapter collar that everyone does the cut or pull to. We get to leave it alone.
Here are the connectors for your light stalk. Remove them with a pinch and pull.
Here are the connectors for your wiper stalk. Do the same. Remove all your connectors you can see.
Here are the three flat head screws and a Phillips to remove.
Here is the stalk being removed. The torx screw on the wiper stalk you won’t have to worry about. Nothing is holding it in, just pull it off also. I’d do a little wipey wipey on these things.
Here are all connectors off. Don’t worry, they are pretty straight forward of where they will go into again. The bend stays pretty well so they line up where they should.
There is your ignition, and behind the key, look. There is the ignition switch! If only that switch we could remove from here, but nope that screw is in an awkward position.
Let’s remove that connector, See that pale yella thing, that’s your switch!
Now it’s time to get this steering column out. We need to go under and pull some of the plastic covers so we have better access. Most of them come out with your fingers, you’ll see.
Here are the two I took off.
There is your nut and bolt you need to remove (bronze). Taking all the plastic covers off is good now because you are gonna have some weird angles to get the bolt off and back in.
13mm bolt and nut. Top of bolt I used my wrench to hold it, then I used my ratchet on the bottom, Then I popped the bolt out.
Shear bolt on column, he said it was hand tight, but I had to get a little grunt on it. Then it came out easily. I used my vise to put a grip on it. Putting it back in, I didn’t tighten it much.
Give it a nice tug, don’t worry, it’s gotta get off the teeth. steering column out. Should be a spring that was on the bottom of the column that hooked up where that bolt was. You’ll see it.
There is the freakin enemy! Look! See that screw, bad access, use your thin thin Phillips to get at this. You will be bending the column back and reaching in. Don’t worry so much about how you get at it, just get that screw out and pull that switch! I held it between my legs, upside down, pulling it up and me upside down screwing it out. It was a sight to behold
Replaced ignition switch, oh its so sweet. Get that screw in. If you compare the prongs, the old one had one missing? Not sure if it broke off and was the culprit, or it just wasn’t there. Eh What ever.
Ok now is the fun stuff. Getting it back in is what took me some time. It was getting dark too. I eventually started working in the dark, with a flash light. Most of the time you’re just going to feel it place itself back in.
You will be putting your replaced switch and shaft back in. To turn the shaft, you can put your key in the ignition and turn it.
Ok so put the shaft in, line it up to where you replace your shear bolt, slide it half way in. Look at the bottom, and if you see where you had your 13mm bolt lock the shaft in, you gotta do it again.
Now My shaft had a bit of a groove where the bolt was holding it, not sure if that’s for everyone but that was my guide to where it should line up again. If that isn’t lined up when you put it back in, you won’t be able to get that bolt back in.
This is where the frustration started. I couldn’t line it up correctly and had to keep pulling it out, then starting over. The teeth have to line up correctly, and there isn’t much space down there for you to get it in easily. Remember to place that spring back on the shaft too. That’s what makes it wiggle out and then start yourself over.
Get that bolt in, get that shear bolt back to where it was. Tighten that up. Boom now reinstall everything in reverse order. Do your diligence, make sure everything is hooked up correctly etc etc, then you won’t have to open it up again.
-put the connectors back in
-put the stalks back in
-screws back in
-steering wheel back in
-airbag back in
<font color="blue">
Steering wheel time. Hold the clock spring together, and keep that airbag connector at 0700 so it will fit in the plastic cover. I messed up here, and couldn’t remember where to put it in the teeth for the straight wheels (When taking the bolt off, I turned the wheel a bit, so it was offcenter) So just get it back where it should be, I’m maybe a couple teeth off, an my wheel just looks like its crooked. Doesn’t bother me so much.
Hook that airbag back up, put it in. close up your plastic covers, dash guards etc etc.
-Place your key in the ignition, on ON. THEN go to the battery and hook up your ground to your battery again. Yeah this is the paranoid you may get hit in the face with your airbag that worried me the whole time, but I made it with some prayer and laying on hands on the car. Hahaha
-Ok Turn the car on. Woo headlights working. No brakelight/headlight confusion.
The ignition now seems to have a stiffer turn to it? Is that because the switch? Who knows. But it’s not as loose as it used to be.
-Radio goes to safe, install your radio code. Check your papers call the dealer.
Once you turn the power back on afterward, the radio will display SAFE for a few moments and then show four zeros. Press the station preset button 1 to set the first digit. Press station preset 2 to set the second digit, etc. Once the code is correct, press and hold the right Seek button >> to enter.
Or For the 97 ("Deluxe" and "Premium"), 93-97:
1) Turn on the radio and press the MODE and SCAN button simultaneously and hold them down until "1000" appears in the display. Release the buttons!
CAUTION-Do not continue to hold the MODE & safe buttons after "1000" appears or press them again. This would enter the number "1000" as the input code number.
2) Use station buttons 1 to 4 to input the correct anti-theft code number. Use button 1 to input the first digit, button 2 for the second, and so on.
3) Once the anti-theft code is shown in the display, hold the MODE and SCAN buttons down until the word "safe" appears in the display. Release buttons! Soon afterward, a radio frequency will be displayed and the radio will be operational.
The 98 & 99 will display "safe" when turned on, then after about 3 seconds "1000" will be displayed.
This is per the Bentley Service Manual.
</font>
There you go guys. This is in accordance to all the posts I read, and help from Stig, Toronto Vento, Bookerdog, Rdkern, turbotone. Woo woo.