FraggyTDI's Zippy Commuter

TDIMeister said:

Maybe I missed it - what injectors are you using?

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http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/race-pd-injectors-for-1-9-2-0-8v-tdi-with-firad-50-80-100-120-160-nozzles.html

100% firad

Only?

Haha, Should be enough

Finished installing my new carpet, also got the Passat front seats retrofitted. They are super comfy compared to stock seats. All in all I think it's turning out pretty nice.

Finished my battery relocation and power distributor mounting last night. Also rebuilt my inner cv's and mounted them in the car. Vehicle is really starting to come together. Turbo arrives this week. Darkside part arrive end of next week or early following week.

Not a perfect tuck job but way more organized. Also leaves room for future developments.

The bulk of my engine goodies showed up yesterday from Darkside. Also received my turbo!


I got the timing belt all sealed up, engine mount bracket bolted up. New Injectors installed and the transmission bolted on. Plan now is to bolt it into the chassis to begin mock up of lines and hoses. Then make adjustments and pull it back out so I can tidy up the chassis.

I got the engine mounted up last night! Starting to compile my list of things to do on the wall. First I'm going to work on mocking up all my piping and getting it cut to fit. Also getting my fuel lines routed.

Got a little bored today so I designed up my oil fitting for the GTB turbo. The one I bought came with a plate but I was not a fan of the design and want to use AN fittings to prevent any leaks.

Looks like things are coming together nicely. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Just a fyi, nothing is showing up in post 67.

3L3M3NT said:

Looks like things are coming together nicely. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Just a fyi, nothing is showing up in post 67.

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Should be fixed now. Thanks for the headsup!

What all was done to the cylinder head? The first post mentioned valves, porting and a cam, but this was before any consideration of a PD.

I originally ported the ALH head and was going to do larger valves and upgraded cam. So If anyone is looking for a ported ALH head I got one.

But all I've done is replace the cam with another stock cam. I'm not pushing for high enough numbers right now to justify a port job or a upgraded cam. At the end of the day it's still just a commuter car. That happens to have race injectors and a big turbo

In my opinion a stage II cam would have been worth it to add to the build. It would have helped with spooling the turbo and kept egts in check.

Here are a few options should you change your mind.
http://rosten-performance.com/products/engine-parts-diesel/valvetrain-engineparts-diesel/camshafts-camshaftbearings-valvetrain-engineparts-diesel/1-9-2-0-tdi-pd-8v-camshaft/

http://www.kermatdi.com/colt-cam-stage-2-billet-pd-camshaft-for-bew-bhw/

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/performance-race-camshaft-kit-for-1-9-2-0-8v-pd-engines.html

Either way the car will definitely scoot!

Yeah but it's an easy easy option to add at a later date. It just didn't seem worth the money to me at the time. It would also be nice if the cam makers would post duration, angles and lift so I could actually see where I would get the benefit in the powerband. I don't want a high revving race engine with a lopey idle. I know people are running these cams and that is not the effect. Would just like to see the actual numbers before making a purchase.

Nice job
The PD130 i'm rebuilding is also for a daily driving purpose, and I also don't really know yet if I'll use a stock cam or the upgraded rosten one.

My experience with installing a Colt Stage II in my ALH with a 17/22, 11MM, R520's, tune, ARL pistons, etc (no twins at the time) was that I lost a little bottom in transient response, tip in performance for a little gain in upper RPM power. I ended up advancing the cam ~6 degrees and regained some of the bottom end, but not all of it. All of this is subjective, no hard data to back it up. I did do it all in one day though. Drove the car in, swapped cam's installed at 0 degrees, drove out, came back, advanced the cam, drove it again, etc.

Most of the "Stage II" cams keep the same center lines, lobe separation angles, etc but add ~0.5mm (0.020") of lift and 6-8 degrees of duration equally split on both sides of the lobe. There's not that much different in my opinion.

Thanks for this input! This all makes sense if what you say is true about duration, lift and lobe separation. You would only see a gain in the high rpm so you would get more benefit out of the cam if you could rev the engine higher. This is pretty common for cam changes that just add lift. This is exactly why I'd rather stick to a stock cam, I'm not looking for a high revving horsepower machine just a torquey fun car.

I think most could gain more out of a slight port job but again I think this would also hurt low end but would pick up more power on the high end. Most of these tricks for gaining power tend to be a N/A engine trick which can provide more gains on those engines. When it comes to turboing you downgrade the effect of those items. You can get more benefit out of relieving back pressure post turbo. This is why most people see their largest butt dyno gain when they change downpipes and exhaust systems.

On another note, I updated my center console. Being that this is a commuter car I wanted to have cup holders. Turned out pretty nice and still comes with the benefit of having an armrest.

I'm finally getting back to working on the car. I've been out on a 6 week hiatus from knee surgery. Last night I finally got back to it and it feels great. I've mostly buttoned up the interior at this point. Need to wire up clutch switch still and mount battery in trunk.
I finally got the intercooler installed and clipped up the harness to make sure I had everything where I needed it. I only have 1 more pipe on the intercooler system, which I'm going to have to cut and weld to fit up.

I pulled the engine last night hopefully for the last time. I'll be torquing down everything and making sure everything is as it should before dropping it back in and mounting up.

Goal run date is August

August 2017?

Curious Chris said:

August 2017?

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I left the year out for a reason. That way I can never be late.

Well I just spent the last week working with the world to source a GTB2260 exhaust housing. I originally was going to use the stock exhaust welded to the GTB 2060 manifold but after mounting it up I realized that it would not be suitable for oil drain back from the turbo. Because of this I went on a scavenger hunt to find an exhaust housing that I could get machined to fit the 2060vklr.

I managed to source a housing from the same place I purchased my turbo from. Honestly working with Ionut Petrescu at AVD turbo has been excellent. Very responsive and willing to go the distance to get me the parts. English is a little rough but they got it done and were the only place I could find that I could get a housing from. My only other option would of been sourcing a housing from china which I didn't trust.

As for the machining I will wait to give a review. I'm going through JTT who has done some modifications for this turbo on a few others but struggles to source housings like I was. This kind of works out because AVD in Romania will be able to ship the part directly to him in germany and he will machine it and send it to me. I feel I'm using the full power of the internet to source parts from all over the world. It helps that I work with germany and other foreign companies to source parts for engines at work.

Fingers crossed this all works out. To mount this new turbo setup I will be using a Profdiesel tubular manifold. I will be able to review this part later down the road after running it for a while.

What I've learned from the crazy mess is just get a GTB2260vklr or just stick to the VK's. At this point I don't think the ceramic bearings are worth the hassel.

Any and all hassles you are going through will be vindicated when you have the build finally done and running. The only downside is that you won't have any first-hand reference to compare what it would've been like with a GTB22 or just a VK with the 2060VKLR you have. No disrespect, but another build that will be updating shortly has had to go through unimaginable hoops and technical challenges in comparison, but I say this kindly just to encourage you that the result of any hard work and persevance will always be very rewarding.

TDIMeister said:

Any and all hassles you are going through will be vindicated when you have the build finally done and running. The only downside is that you won't have any first-hand reference to compare what it would've been like with a GTB22 or just a VK with the 2060VKLR you have. No disrespect, but another build that will be updating shortly has had to go through unimaginable hoops and technical challenges in comparison, but I say this kindly just to encourage you that the result of any hard work and persevance will always be very rewarding.

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I take that with no disrespect. I'll be extremely happy in the end. Just hoping others can learn from my tribulations and take the easier path with the same reward. That's the benefit of the community.

It's been a while since an update, but with many weddings and vacations I have not been able to do anything until this last week.

Where I'm at currently:
I received the gtb2260VK exhaust housing machined from JTT. He has done good work and the new housing bolted up perfectly.
I also received a new tubular manifold from Profidiesel, after mounting it to the GTB I found I had an interference with the turbo. Not a larger one but enough that I knew I needed to do something. See below

I'm not sure if this a fault of Profdiesel or the fact that it probably wasn't designed for a VKLR turbo. So after some torching and blacksmithing with my hammer(real sad to bash it up) I managed to create some clearance that I felt comfortable with. This small dent should have very very small effect on exhaust flow. it's tough to see the clearance but I gave it 3mm or so.


On another note I decided I needed to put head studs in the engine. So I ordered the kit from Darkside. Which is an ARP kit probably the same as the ALH kit only thing is they include a machined down 14mm which unfortunately for me broke after the first stud. This is just a possibility with machined sockets. Sometime they last a 100 engines others don't even make it through the first bolt. Rather then have then send me another machined socket I'm going to machine down my own so I can finish the job.

The final part I'm working on is the oil supply and return for the turbo. This is turning our to be a real pain in the butt. This might be the main reason a VKLR is not worth the possible benefit it may have over a VK. I'm working with an oil line maker to build me some custom lines to fit the application. Which could fix the problem for anyone in the future that may want to do this. Below are pictures of the challenge I'm facing.

Use AN Push Lok fittings and hose. But with how close you are you might get away with some silicone oil rated hose or similar. I'm using AN push lok fittings for my gtb2260vk but I have much more room.

purediesel said:

Use AN Push Lok fittings and hose. But with how close you are you might get away with some silicone oil rated hose or similar. I'm using AN push lok fittings for my gtb2260vk but I have much more room.

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Yeah, I've considered this. If you were able could you measure the length of your push to lock fittings?

I've also considered running a brake line. But everything is just tight.

I will help you out how to fix it run the same fitting in the block in the turbo
have a truck parts and service shop that makes up lines.
make a line with two 90 on both ends and lope it alone the block left to right.
or block the block drain port and weld up the pan with a bung as high as you can go and make the line up. By the way your toe look ugly!!!

FraggyTDI said:

Yeah, I've considered this. If you were able could you measure the length of your push to lock fittings?
I've also considered running a brake line. But everything is just tight.

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I wouldn't do brake line. You want the drain as large as factory or larger. Plus I'm sure there is a reason that VW put in a flex hose in the factory drain hose. I can only measure my spare 45° pushlok and it's roughly 88mm from base of mounting to the tip. In your case it might be easier to go to the oil pan with it. Looks pretty tight. You just don't want to restrict the drain at all.

purediesel said:

I wouldn't do brake line. You want the drain as large as factory or larger. Plus I'm sure there is a reason that VW put in a flex hose in the factory drain hose. I can only measure my spare 45° pushlok and it's roughly 88mm from base of mounting to the tip. In your case it might be easier to go to the oil pan with it. Looks pretty tight. You just don't want to restrict the drain at all.

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I'm going to try out the push lock, just might cut it down some to add more flexibility to the hose. I can get some heat wrap from work that's good to 2000F. I really don't want to do the oil pan though. It seems like a greater risk to me. With possibility of creating a back pressure on the oil. I'm pretty sure it would be draining into the oil pan below the oil level. I understand that when the pump is running it's much lower but my fear would be at shutoff which is when you cook the oil the most. I want as free flowing of a flow as possible without creating a P-trap.