Moving to the country! School me on big TD trucks.

tdidieselbobny

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 4, 2005
Location
Stafford,NY (WNY)
TDI
'03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
Just keep looking. I'd stay looking in the southern states for a rust free one,because as soon as it comes north,you'll have to protect it from the rust. Most of the older Dodges I see here in NY are rot buckets and still range from $5k-$12k for the earlier ones. I suggest maybe Autotrader, keep an eye on ebay, unless you find a snowbird one in Wisconsin(in other words,spends the winter in Florida or other southern state)....
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
I'm on the hunt! I'm looking at a 200k mile 2wd tomorrow. I don't really want 2wd, but if it has an LSD, it might be okay
 

iamatt

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2006
Location
Rosharon, Texas
TDI
2014 Jetta 6 Speed manual
Pull 5th wheel gooseneck with an 2007 duramax. allison 1000 and never any issues since owned it. Oil and diesel. Not sure why you want a manual except for cool factor? My 2007 6.6 has been flawless.
 
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carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
The manual is not for cool, it's for me. I'm a purist, the less driving aids and electronics the better. And it's just more fun!
 

crazyrunner33

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
NC
TDI
'10 Golf(bought back)
Manual transmissions can be fun, but even with 500 hp, a manual Cummins is slower than a V6 Camry, unless if you manage a 3rd or 4th gear boost launch without breaking anything. 525 hp and an NV4500 with a dual disk, it's slow. When starting from a 30 or 40 mph dig it can be fun, but not from a stop.
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
No idea, my boss is looking at buying a back hoe that I'll sure want to move some of my own earth with...
 

crazyrunner33

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
NC
TDI
'10 Golf(bought back)
For towing, a 5 speed 12 valve with a Borg Warner 62/71/.83 non-gated turbo, 5x.012 or 5x.014 injectors, 4k governor springs, 60 lb valve springs, head studs, larger clutch and timing at 18-22 degrees is hard to beat. It can support 550 hp, but it'll run reliably and forever at 450 hp, which is around the max safe hp a 12 valve Cummins can sustain all day long. That's very similar to the setup on my truck since '09, no issues except a 5th gear failure on the NV4500.

The EGT would be nice and low on that setup, but that Borg Warner turbo has been tested to over 1900 degree EGT and can support that all day long. And the 12 valve Cummins has been used for durability testing for another turbo company and has supported far beyond 2000 degree EGT for hours on end. Needless to say, this combination can handle a hot supper if you throw one at it.
 

\/\/0J0

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Location
Knoxville, TN
TDI
Sadly, none anymore
Fifth gear in the nv4500 is notorious for failing. The gears are helically cut and have a tendency to loosen the retaining nut and walk up the splines they are pressed onto, out of range of engagement with the mating gear.

Sent from my mobile look-at device
 

\/\/0J0

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Location
Knoxville, TN
TDI
Sadly, none anymore
That depends on the flavor of fix that you choose... Type "nv4500 5th gear fix" into Google and you'll come up with some shopping suggestions and some videos detailing the problem and procedures to remedy it.

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crazyrunner33

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
NC
TDI
'10 Golf(bought back)
How did fifth fail?
I suggest a read up on my DIY redneck NV4500 rebuild thread on Cumminsforum.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-drivetrain-except-engine/516911-diy-nv4500-rebuild-information.html

5th gear is very weak on the NV4500, especially for a Cummins engine. The mainshaft is not fully splined for 5th gear. They fail often due to the use of a large amount of torque at low RPM. The lower the RPM, the more vibrations from the powerstroke with a single injection event, higher RPM reduces the vibration. It's typically the nut that slides off, most people assume putting a new nut on or tacking it with a welder will fix it. But the gear is press fitted and the nut loosened up because the gear is sliding around.

The brown gunk is from metal shavings, the gear was sliding around. You can also see the marks from the gear on the part of the mainshaft that was unsplined. The previous owner used the truck to tow upwards of 30K cross country and 50K or more around the farm. He lugged the engine and would accelerate from 1200 RPM in 5th gear, because he had a small aftermarket turbo that could light instantaneously, but it ran out of steam by 2,300 RPM. Hence why I recommend laggy turbos





The repair cost depends on your level of elbow grease you're willing to give. Some just slap a new nut on, when that is just a bandaid for a symptom of the problem. Eventually, that gear will wear off the shaft. Other people tack a weld on the shaft. Mind you, I was born at a very young age, but I'm confident that it's not a bright idea to add hardness to a hardened piece of steel. Especially since the couple of mainshafts that I've seen snap on the NV4500 were welded on beforehand. The proper way to fix it is to add a fully splined shaft and a new fifth gear.

Of course, you can always prevent it by just not towing in 5th gear, 4th gear is the powerhouse that can take all the abuse. If you do use 5th, don't drop under 2000 RPM, and don't even think about giving her a hot supper. This same mindset goes for any diesel truck with a manual transmission, keep O/D for cruising, not for accelerating.

Cost wise, a fully splined mainshaft is 200 dollars. The rebuild kit is like 250, expect to pay 75-100 for fluid, then you can probably get away with investing 100-300 dollars in specialty tools over what you currently have. It's not rocket surgery, but there'll be a few busted knuckles and some cursing.
 
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Pat Dolan

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2002
Location
Martensville, SK
TDI
2003 A4 Variant, 2015 Q7
My personal farm truck is a '97 K1500 ext cab, 6.5 box, 6.5 engine. 200,000 miles and virtually untouched (had since new). My best bud's is a 2002 24v 3500 double cab short box with more miles, but it is THE most awesome tow vehicle on wheels. Had to do clutch (went double disc), front end, 5th is wonky, has direct fit forged 19.5 alloys running 245 rubber (thus why such a great tow machine) as it is the spare for D5500 CC deck truck that hauls 12 horses, and yes, the old 3500 will drag 24,000 lbs of trailer quite nicely.

LSD on 2x4 is absolutely no match for 4x4 in mud or snow.

What can I say: I live in rust country as well (not as bad as WI, but not "good" by any means) and suggest you look at every source, CTD forums, trader, kijiji, etc. to find a nice, rust free UNBENT truck of your dreams. I understand and agree with 12v choice, but they are getting harder to find in clean condition. The 24V is not a bad substitute, but not needed if you want to stay mechanical. The trucks are out there, and expensive, but 9k for a beater is out of the range. Just plan on driving a long way south and west to get it.
 

DIESELMAN3500

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Location
Norther New Jersey
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI,2006 vw tdi jetta,2003 vw beetle,2003 vw golf
Family is split between fords and chevys and I'll never buy a ford with the troubles we have had. All the way from the 6.9idi to the 6.7 power stroke. Fuel pumps going, injectors needing rebuilds at 2600$ a set, high pressure oil pump needing replacement at 1000$. Oil coolers leaking in the 6.0, headhaskets on the 6.0 if u don't treat them right. Oil pressure regulators. Have you ever changed a serpentine belt on a 6.0l ?.

99 cummins has 300k on it and put 3 vp44 in it and 2 transmissions. My 01 has the 6 speed nv5600, tows anything great and pulls the hills at 68mph no issues at all. Injectors are cheap, headstuds are cheap for mild hp increase security.
Yes dodge trucks do rust away but I have seen plenty of fords in the same boat.

Never had a chevy. But they ride a lot smoother due to the independent front suspension.


Buy a truck from the lower states that don't use salt and your ahead of the game. Auto or stick they both need work.
 

crazyrunner33

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
NC
TDI
'10 Golf(bought back)
I forgot about the 1st generation of the 24 valve ISB with the VP44, repressed memories for a reason. I also lost two IPs, and the 47RE in factory form couldn't hold anything, then mistakes were made, I went ATS. A few "built" purple trannies later and I was off into the 12 valve 5 speed world. The 47RE is a good transmission when built properly, there's a reason Duramax drag racers swap to them, but there's plenty of snake oil transmission builders out there.
 

crazyrunner33

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
NC
TDI
'10 Golf(bought back)
The big issue with the VP44 on the Cummins is that it has its own independent computer on top of the pump that has to also work with the ECU, unlike the VP37 on the ALH which is controlled by the ECU. It's usually the computer that that overheats on the VP44, people even tried coming up with ice bag solutions for it. The later build VP seem to be more reliable. The CP3 in the common rail however is bullet proof, early years have some injector issues, but those were sorted out by '06.
 

\/\/0J0

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Location
Knoxville, TN
TDI
Sadly, none anymore
The big issue with the VP44 on the Cummins is that it has its own independent computer on top of the pump that has to also work with the ECU, unlike the VP37 on the ALH which is controlled by the ECU. It's usually the computer that that overheats on the VP44, people even tried coming up with ice bag solutions for it. The later build VP seem to be more reliable. The CP3 in the common rail however is bullet proof, early years have some injector issues, but those were sorted out by '06.
I've read (admittedly, not in great detail) about swapping a mechanical VE pump in place of the vp44 pump. Seems that with the replacement of the timing gear housing and addition of throttle linkage, one can swap the trouble prone vp44 to a mechanical VE pump..?

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crazyrunner33

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
NC
TDI
'10 Golf(bought back)
It probably can be done, but there's kits to swapping over to the P7100 which is near bulletproof. The VE for the 6BT is nice and works well in factory form, plus the dynamic timing. But the P7100 is more desirable.

The VP44 failures seem to be rare if they were replaced a while after the the transition from LSD to ULSD, and there may have been a design revision since the last time I used a VP close to ten years ago. My buddy services a few Cummins engines with the VP44 rated to 445 hp at over 3k RPM, he proof tests them for one customer every month by running it at full throttle for 24 hours, emergency shutdown temp is set for 2900 degree EGT. He hasn't had many issues with the IP, but for some reason they're problematic in the Rams. :confused:
 

greenskeeper

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 10, 2003
Location
USA
TDI
1998 Jetta TDI
Of course, you can always prevent it by just not towing in 5th gear, 4th gear is the powerhouse that can take all the abuse. If you do use 5th, don't drop under 2000 RPM, and don't even think about giving her a hot supper. This same mindset goes for any diesel truck with a manual transmission, keep O/D for cruising, not for accelerating.
So I shouldn't engage 5th gear until 75mph? Get outta here.

Every manual transmission vehicle I've owned I've lugged in 5th gear from idle, never had a transmission failure.

It's a known defect with the NV4500. Most just tack weld the nut and be done with it.
 

carsaremytoys

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Location
WI
TDI
01 Jetta TDI 5MT, 05 Passat wagon TDI 5MT
Okay all, if I do find a 2wd that I can't refuse, I'll lower it. Yeah I know it's the opposite of what I'm looking for, but I can't help it and I could make it work for my needs, I think... When lowering the rear, I'm not losing any ground clearance right? Just lowering the body via blocks. But with the front I'm not sure how they are lowered?
 

crazyrunner33

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Location
NC
TDI
'10 Golf(bought back)
carsaremytoys, most people lower the front by switching to a 1500 front suspension setup. A quick Google search for lowering 2wd competition diesel forum will show a few builds on Competition Diesel forums. I'm only familiar with lowering the 4wd a few inches, not the 2wd.

So I shouldn't engage 5th gear until 75mph? Get outta here.

Every manual transmission vehicle I've owned I've lugged in 5th gear from idle, never had a transmission failure.
If that's what you're into, who am I to pee in your cornflakes? Cruising under 2,000 isn't too bad, as long as if there's no load. But accelerating or running a heavy load is just an unnecessary risk, especially since the engine performs so much better at high RPM. The coolant system is much more efficient with higher RPM, there's more oil flow, less stresses, and more power. These engines were designed to run all day long at full throttle from 2k RPM to 3k RPM. Even Cummins themselves recommends against lugging the engine.

I've busted fifth twice running low RPM and accelerated, and my father has done so as well when towing. Keeping the acceleration at the higher RPM has resulted in zero 5th gear issues since 2009, that's with 525 HP and 1,180 lb-feet of torque and running to the end of the tach a few times a day.
It's a known defect with the NV4500. Most just tack weld the nut and be done with it.
And a good chunk of those guys come back for seconds.
 
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