New to the diesel world!

Hey everyone!

Just wanted to make a quick intro post and ask a few questions.

Make it simple, my username is DaveGLI because I have a Mk6 GLI.. Currently undergoing a big turbo setup, specifically a BorgWarner EFR7163, it's my pride and joy and I really only got my TDi as a commuter as I feel most of you have.

The Mk6 is an all Integrated Engineering car and I'm working with Pete, the owner, and his team on developing the platform for the Mk6 GLI and testing new waters for the Jetta. I'll be the first GLI to run an all IE EFR kit and all IE Hardware and software..sooooo yea, I'm kinda a fan boy..but mostly I consider them all friends and have a built a relationship with them since I bought the car.. If anyone is interested in the GLI I'll post up some pics.

However! Back to the Diesel!! I recently picked up an '02 Jetta TDi for what I think was a really good price, she has 286-7k on it and is 100% Stock. I'm currently enjoying 46.7mpg and hoping to try and boost output and mileage. A couple things to note, the car had a receipt in it for some nice new parts, OEM Transmission, VR6 clutch, timing belt kit, front brakes..

As soon as I bought the car I removed the EGR valve and clean it thoroughly because I had a suspicion is was gunked up which it was. But no where near as bad as some others I've seen. I also cleaned the straight portion of the manifold with a screw driver and a shop vac to prevent anything from entering my motor.

Here are a couple steps I plan i take with the car to try and increase efficiency and am hoping I get some input as to what else to do and also some information/feedback as I am very inexperienced with the TDI but Pretty damn handy with a wrench and a laptop.


Next steps:
1) Remove Intake Manifold - Burn out - Oven Cleaner - take a cylinder bore hone to the straight section to smooth it out, and maybe hit it with my port/polishing stones just to smooth out any casting imperfections

2) Remove turbo downpipe, apply mightyvac to actuator to confirm proper function. hit the VNT mechanism, turbine and VNT Actuator with oven clean.

3) Replace Fuel Filter due to unknown previous interval.

4) Replace PCV Valve due to a lot of oil on rear of engine block by turbo area just to make sure its not also plugged and hopefully see if that was the cause of the oil, also, the above.. unknown interval.

5) Replace all underhood vacuum lines to the N75's, etc because they're kinda old and crusty and want to ensure proper function of all the solenoids/actuators and make sure I have no vacuum leaks.

6) Remove/Clean Charge Piping and Intercooler.

7) Inspect Timing belt for wear and replace as needed


Question(s):
As to why I'm going to test and clean the VNT; I can hear the turbo spool (1200rpm ish, didnt pay attention that well) but It doesn't really seem to accelerate well, so maybe the VNT is stuck in the smaller A/R and not allowing it to flow well up top and produce power? Does this seem likely?

Also, I do need to borrow a friends VCDS and log the MAP mbar against target/requested. I'm sure I could search, but if anyone would be willing to tell me which mvb to watch/log that safe some time.

If there was an issue with the car such as a stuck VNT, would I still be seeing as good of mileage as I do? so far, on only 320'ish miles (half tank) the car got 46 almost 47mpg at the pump on Shell Diesel and PowerService Booster (mixed double strength per instructions. 7gal received I think 4-6oz of treatment)

Does the fact that my car at least claims to have a Sachs VR6 clutch kit mean I'm already DMFW to SMFW Converted? Not sure if you HAVE to have a SMFW for the VR6 clutch to work.

Future mods/ideas:
I called KermaTDI as they're somewhat local (same state) as me and I plan on getting a tune from them to increase mpg and power output.

Also, I searched around a bit and saw a couple FMIC Threads, and Aerodynamic threads for increasing performance/mpg. The piping looks overly complicated and time extensive.. which gave me the thought..Why is everyone using opposite I/O Intercoolers?

Example: K-Series Honda's run Same side I/O Stacked on top of each other.

Wouldn't a Same side I/O Significantly decrease the amount of piping (and lag) and help the car perform with better IAT's? I saw a guy who went FMIC reduced IAT by 100*F.


Bosio (i think..spelling?) Injectors to match the Kerma Tune.

Thanks everyone!

Im glad to be here and hope to learn a lot from you guys!

- Dave

p.s. I'll send you a box of cookies if you can tell me how to get rid of the damn crayon smell!!! (****ing Mk4 Jetta's)

DaveGLI said:

Also, I do need to borrow a friends VCDS and log the MAP mbar against target/requested. I'm sure I could search, but if anyone would be willing to tell me which mvb to watch/log that safe some time.

If there was an issue with the car such as a stuck VNT, would I still be seeing as good of mileage as I do? so far, on only 320'ish miles (half tank) the car got 46 almost 47mpg at the pump on Shell Diesel and PowerService Booster (mixed double strength per instructions. 7gal received I think 4-6oz of treatment)

Click to expand...

VCDS is only $199 now, and if you want to make sure your little ALH working it's very best, you should have it.

Good instructions below on how/what to log:

http://www.vaglinks.com/OBDII/Vag-com_Data_Logging_And_Graphing.pdf

Make sure intake is clean, all vacuum lines are good, and fluids/filters are all up to date. Wouldn't hurt to check the base timing if you're really concerned about FE.

Then, with VCDS, check MAF/Boost/Timing. Fix what needs fixing.

X2 on getting VCDS as your first mod.

Cleaning the IM (even just the straight part) without removing it is very risky, so
remove it asap and read up on cleaning the intake ports while it's off.
Porting and polishing the stock IM is completely unnecessary on these engines.

The PCV is actually a CCV and yes, they can seep some oil but nothing in it to clean.

If you don't have documentation of when the TB was last done assume it needs it!

Do a simple test of unplugging the MAF and see if the car runs better.

Getting a tune with dynamic EGR will allow you to keep the EGR and benefit from
the quicker warm-up during the frosty Colorado winters.

I have DLC520 nozzles and like them and they shouldn't over power the clutch.
Unless you go with lots more power (and a new clutch) you won't need a new IC.

The crayon smell is under the carpets. It's a pretty big job well documented here.

flee said:

X2 on getting VCDS as your first mod.

Cleaning the IM (even just the straight part) without removing it is very risky, so
remove it asap and read up on cleaning the intake ports while it's off.
Porting and polishing the stock IM is completely unnecessary on these engines.

The PCV is actually a CCV and yes, they can seep some oil but nothing in it to clean.

If you don't have documentation of when the TB was last done assume it needs it!

Do a simple test of unplugging the MAF and see if the car runs better.

Getting a tune with dynamic EGR will allow you to keep the EGR and benefit from
the quicker warm-up during the frosty Colorado winters.

I have DLC520 nozzles and like them and they shouldn't over power the clutch.
Unless you go with lots more power (and a new clutch) you won't need a new IC.

The crayon smell is under the carpets. It's a pretty big job well documented here.

Click to expand...

That less expensive VCDS is that a 1-vehicle thing? Because... I have my '02 TDI, an '03 A4 and my '12 GLI... I should probably just invest in one haha

I was able to successfully clean the straight portion with aid of a screw driver and a shop vac, I literally had the screw driver inside the shop vac and sucked up anything it broke free so I'm hoping nothing was damaged as its been running strong for a week now after cleaning.

I'll take a look into cleaning the ports aswell! I'd assume its similar to when I walnut blasted my GLI (TSI DI engine) I rotated the engine until all valves on that cylinder were closed, shot carb clean in to see if any of it leaked into the combustion chamber and once I was happy it was all sealed used the shop vac again and a media blaster to clean the intake valves. But...my TSI engine has the intake in the front so it was much easier.

I keep seeing CCV Referenced in threads, I'm assuming its short for Crankcase Vent?

As for the T-Belt I have documentation of a date, but unfortunately no miles.. last was 2009, It's more than likely due.

I never even though to test the maf, I hit it with MAF cleaner when I did the EGR just for good measure.


NOW onto a real thing that I'm attributing to a more than likely, stuck VNT Actuator rod..

I had to get in the throttle pretty deep today, and the car pulled for a little, but anything much above 2400 or so it felt extremely slow to accelerate.. Which is kinda the basis for me theory of the VNT isnt moving and the car is stuck in the smaller A/R Turbine geometry. Fair assumption? When I get some time off, I think she's gonna get a date with some oven cleaner.

But first I'll order some gaskets, Intake Manifold, Turbo Nuts, Turbo DP Gasket, Turbo Manifold Gasket (incase I need to remove it) What else should I get on the way as preventative and cleaning maintenance?

DaveGLI said:

That less expensive VCDS is that a 1-vehicle thing? Because... I have my '02 TDI, an '03 A4 and my '12 GLI...

Click to expand...

I thought it was good for three vehicles. Just check the Rosstech website, it's all there.

You may be experiencing limp mode which would leave a code VCDS can reveal.
Limp mode cuts the turbo output but may not be caused by the turbo.

A Mity-vac can test the actuator and see if you are getting full travel at the right vacuum.
You can use the Mity-vac gauge to test the N75 function among other things.

if your going to remove the turbo be extremely careful about disconnecting the oil feed and return tubes they tend to get damaged upon removal. I replaced mine with a flexable oil feed tube and just replaced the oil return tube. I ordered my parts from A&A Rodriguez corp.

Thanks for all the Advice guys!

I'm pleased to say I got my first 600 mile tank today! I crammed an extra almost gallon in it and put in 12.004 and had a nice happy 600mi on the trip!

Boom! 50mpg..and I haven't done a damn thing to this thing.

Note that's running too high in the RPM's doing a sustained 75-80mph...and with the A/C on most of the time.

Can't wait to button up all the loose ends and get some basics covered and see what it'll really do!! if I can get the same MPG or better an an extra 20-30hp that would be fantastic! because passing is definitely a chore.

DaveGLI said:

Thanks for all the Advice guys!

I'm pleased to say I got my first 600 mile tank today! I crammed an extra almost gallon in it and put in 12.004 and had a nice happy 600mi on the trip!

Click to expand...

The good news is, if you're so inclined...you can usually fit about 16 gallons in there, which will put you up into the coveted 800 mile tank area.

Rembrant said:

The good news is, if you're so inclined...you can usually fit about 16 gallons in there, which will put you up into the coveted 800 mile tank area.

Click to expand...

Bloody hell!! How on earth do you get 16 gallons in there!! haha, I've seen the vent trick, but I dont appear to have the black vent lever in my filler neck.

in other news! My shifter cable snapped tonight...soooo thats fun.

Will any other Mk4 5MT Shifter cable work or does it have to be from a TDi?

DaveGLI said:

Bloody hell!! How on earth do you get 16 gallons in there!!

Click to expand...

I fill it right to the cap, and I drive it until it's empty. That's with a 'ventectomy', and driving until the fuel light comes on, every time. I'm on the highway with the car all the time, and my rule for fill-ups is, I'll stop at the next station after the low fuel warning comes on.