Lower IC pipe blowing off

Does anyone else have this challenge? I have a 60 mm lower IC pipe and it is custom make by a local muffler shop. I know everyone will say that is the problem, but it has worked well for over 10k now, but all of a sudden at 25 lbs plus it is blowing off. It started when I was at wot racing, ops cant use that word, showing a 1.8t how well the diesel runs. (and by the way I was kicking his a**) Now it will not stay on. why all of a sudden it won't stay on. I also found a lot of oil in the IC. Could all this be caused for lack of a good CCV system?

is there a bead molded into the end of the pipe?

what kind of hose clamp are you using?

pictures of the hose, the pipe, and the clamp?

Oil will permeate the boots after a while and they get very slippery! So yeah, if you can improve the crankcase vent to keep any oil from getting into the intake that would be a huge help. And as mentioned above, a bead on the ends to hold the boot is critical.

No bead on the end. I will go back to the shop and see if they can do the bead work. I thought the same about the bead, but it lasted so well for so long I thought weeeellllll maybe it will hold. I took it off and cleaned it real good and reinstalled and it now holds at least up to 15 lbs. but I need 30 lbs. lol I also am looking at a set of springs on the pipe and mount them so they will also hold the pipe in place. this seems to be a very easy fix it it will hold. Weld 2 flat washers to the pipe and run 20-25 lbs test springs to a secure location. I will advise it this works.

You are not using worm drive hose clamps? If the pipe is steel you can weld a rough bead around the end of the pipe so the clamp has something to bite into.

Should be using constant torque band clamps..

Richard, you may want to hold off on running 30psi on that turbo. If you're hitting 30psi, you need to lengthen the actuator some to get on top of that creep issue. Just to be clear- the hose is popping off the "custom muffler shop end" and not the turbo end right? If so, the above recommendations about bending or welding a bead should hook you right up.

About your oil, your CCV should just go into a catch can. Keep that crud out of the intake in the first place. Any other oil (assuming your egr is gone) is just blowby from the turbo seals. When not on boost, these seals do leak by design from what I've read.

Farfromovin n Mach1
Thanks for the input, the bead is what I was going back to the shop to see if they could do. I hit 30 only a few times and probably by accident.
I normally pull out at around 26-27, Jeff told me no problems with that. Hope he is correct.
CCV: I have thought about the catch can several times, that is what we did in the old school days with the V8s. I quess I was thinking about globel warming, al goreish and mother earth. Screw it, catch can here I came. I did build a pvc CCV system but cant find a good place to install it on the NB. Little or no room under the hood. lol
egr is not gone but bypassed, just for the flutter valve only, I will install a race pipe in the near future.
Does anyone know if the audi tt IC will fit on the NB. I have found a pair for 50.00 and may try to retro them to the NB.

Richard, my point was you SHOULDN'T be able to hit 30. It will live forever (almost) at 26-27 psi. That's what I run. At first, I could hit 30 in upper gears but with a quick actuator adjustment, no more 30 =)

Thanks for the input. I will adjust the actuator. PNW I do miss it. I grew up on the Columbia River.

Here is how I created a CCV filter/catch can on my beetle when I had it.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=930436&postcount=52



I did wind up adding a brass coupler and a close nipple to this to extend the drain interval out to 5000 miles.

worked good right up until I sold the car.

should probably fit under the engine cover as well, but I never ran one so I am not 100% sure.

That thread also shows my all pvc design before I changed it out for the galvanized.

Aaron

Richard55 said:

Thanks for the input. I will adjust the actuator. PNW I do miss it. I grew up on the Columbia River.

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Yeah, I doubt you would have missed the foot of snow we got in some places last week You're always welcome to come out to the West Fest this summer in Portland probably

If the muffler shop can Mig a bead around the tube ends that will work, or any decent "Tin Knocker"(sheet metal shop) should have a bead roller.

The best clamps to use at higher pressure is T-bar clamps. Mcmaster Carr in Atlanta will have them to you next day via UPS ground.

Farfromvin
My mom and dad still live in the gorge and they had two feet of snow, my brother lives closer to Portland and he had three feet. That happens about every 8-10 years..The only bad thing is the runoff from the thaw.
Growler, not sure what your ccv does, I thought the idea was to releave pressure in the valve cover and to reroute the oil , how does yours do that? I can see the re-routing but not the pressure relief. I am pushing 25+ lbs of boost and this is causing the problem. Thanks for the input.
Shootist, thanks for the input, I order hoses from Mcmaster and they are great.
The catch can we used when I was into the V8s was just that, a coffee type can that had the cc exhaust running to it and and exhaust hose running out of the can and directly to the ground. No real oil ever came out of its exhaust side of the can, just a little blowby, but you ended up with cc pressure relief.

I tried vented to air on my 2003. It stunk to high heaven. I tired a Mann Provent which seemed to catch a fair bit of oil. I took it off as the plumbing was jerry looking. I have not reinstalled it yet. At least no stink with the Provent.

I've had the IC hose blow off my SMIC...I think the turbo seal is seeping (103000 miles, mostly chipped) as there is a small amount of oil coming through.(None is the upper IC piping though.) Get some t-bolt clamps...have a bead welded.

I have no beads/lips on my IC pipes. I've also marked with a sharpie where the hose is when I clamp down and look periodically to see if there is any slippage.(I've also made sure there is plenty of meat on the pipe, that I'm not clamping on the end) Another thing I've heard done is use some cheap hairspray on the pipe and slip the coupler on and clamp...(friend who drove/drag raced a turbo Grand National suggested that )

What I did recently for the CCV...added a 2nd outlet. I usually turn off the heat/air when my car is stopped I'm guessing once a seal starts leaking, there's no going back...so if the CC preasures caused the leak in my turbo...damage done?

where are u running your catch can

Looks like mother earth is helping out with that a bit... LOL

psssh...I like the designs left on my garage floor.

I had the same issue with my custom pipe popping off. All I did was rap 3 hose clamps around the problem end, and never had an issue after that. The clamps HAVE TO BE tight, to the point to where you think that you are going to break them.

Had spot welds added to the end of the pipe and back to high boost with no challanges.

Could you use something like J B Weld to solve this issue ?

you may be able to JB a bead around the pipe, but this weld was way too easy.

Richard be cautioned, you may want a boot to pop, so you know where you have a weak spot..

Be careful with the welding a flange and then bolting the pipe together, this will keep the pipes together, but not necessarly sealing the boost pressure.

I like to build a system, then have it blow a boot, cause I know where the weak spot is and once I fix it correctly then you should have a bullet-proof system. This is all in the tuning part of a system. Sometimes getting it to seal is a pain..

Hope this is understandable..

Richard, you need a new pipe and a hose from me. I am scheduled to get the hoses on 1/6/09. I did four or five dyno pulls yesterday and nothing came apart.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

Richard, you need a new pipe and a hose from me. I am scheduled to get the hoses on 1/6/09. I did four or five dyno pulls yesterday and nothing came apart.

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Buy one of those Richard, so I can see it...

Peters are real and available now... mine are... well my time table is slower than Peter's...

If I had known, I would have got the ends beaded for you...

Anywhoo, silicone hoses will get soft and turn to crap when soaked with oil. Only flourosilicone lined hoses are impervious to engine oil... and this nearly doubles the cost of having them made...

Also count the reinforcement plys, you want 4 of them for pressure pipes, not 3 and you want Kevlar plys and not polyester...

Misconception here, I did not have the pipes welded together, just weld a bead around the end of the pipe so the hose would have a flange to grab. Now the coupling hose is not blowing off. I still have the weak spot. In my case it is the wet spot as I still do not have a good ccv installed, may do that today.

Richard55 said:

Does anyone else have this challenge? I have a 60 mm lower IC pipe and it is custom make by a local muffler shop. I know everyone will say that is the problem, but it has worked well for over 10k now, but all of a sudden at 25 lbs plus it is blowing off. It started when I was at wot racing, ops cant use that word, showing a 1.8t how well the diesel runs. (and by the way I was kicking his a**) Now it will not stay on. why all of a sudden it won't stay on. I also found a lot of oil in the IC. Could all this be caused for lack of a good CCV system?

Click to expand...

Oil from turbo collects in the lowest part of the system,and forces it's way out when pressurized.Happened to my TDI Jetta once and all it had was a PSI POWERBOX TUNER.Reinstalled it and it's been good since.
My suggestion is to clean all the oil out and install a new lower pipe as it maybe expanded too much to stay put

Richard55 said:

(snip)I still have the weak spot. In my case it is the wet spot (snip)

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I have a weakness for wet spots too

Installed the homemade CCV system yesterday and I like it so far. My system does not return to the intake, but is vented just to the rear and below the radiator. Oh well I like the custom design on the garage floor also. I capped the intake off with a very custom cap, it is the rubber tip (3/4") off a cane. I found these at Lowes for 1.65 (pack of four) and it works great. It needs a little fitment adjustment but it will work great. Now no oil into the IC. I will take if off and clean it in the near future. I have about 20.00 in the ccv system.