At some point I took the car to have the DMF replaced (it was driving fine until that point). Got the car back out of alignment with no clunk, took it to Belle Tire for alignment, got the car back with the clunk.
Read online about someone's else experience at a shop where they were trying to separate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle by going at it with a hammer. By doing so, they have damaged something internally in the steering rack (Tensioner?).
After the alignment, I had to replace the inner and outer tie rods on the driver side every 3-5 months; on one occasion, with the inner tie rod removed, I have wiggled the rack (to which the inner tie rod gets screwed) and noticed vertical play. It was making the typical metal on metal clunk. That was happening while the car was lifted with a jack on the driver side only. While the car was lifted on a hoist, I could not replicate the issue.
At some point, I have replaced the entire suspension with KONI FSD/EIBACH springs, the clunk killed the driver side strut within a week. I thought that maybe the strut was bad from the factory, got a replacement and the clunk got worse, this time spreading towards the passenger side. It got so bad that while I was leaving the parking lot at work, the clunk was so loud that everyone was looking at me concerned that my car will fall apart. The clunk was always happening at low speeds, while going over bumps or potholes. It was clear to me at this point that the steering rack is toast.
I have replaced the steering rack, no more issues. I am not sure what you mean by "quicker ratio", I thought that all the mk5 steering racks have the same ratio.
If you end up replacing it, after you remove the outer tie rod nut and you separate it from the knuckle, remove the 3 nuts from the LCA, and the bolts holding the dog bone. At this point you need to remove the 4 bolts holding the subframe (make sure you have a jack to support it. The electrical connector to the steering rack is prone to breaking (might as well buy one ahead from ECS tunning). The rack, depending if it's 2nd or 3rd generation is held to the subframe by 4 or 3 bolts. Do not buy the remanufactured one from the dealer ($1400). Install a used one, that's what I did.
If you need a used steering rack, I have one extra (I have ended up with two replacements). It's a 2nd generation, part number 1K0909144J, I have tested it (had it on a bench next to the car and connected its harness to the car, verified with VCDS, it works), let me know if you need it, I'll sell it to you for $100 and I will also include a brand new steering rack mount bushing. If your car has a 3rd generation rack, mine would probably not work.
Since the subframe will be lowered, this will be a good opportunity to install a Tyrolsport deadset subframe kit, that will stop subframe shifting in the future and will also ensure the subframe bolts back in place the right way:
http://www.tyrolsport.com/suspension/chassis/tyrolsport-deadset-subframe-kit-rear-fwd-mk5/6/7/mqb/
Might also install a dogbone insert kit, to alleviate the other "clunk" that occurs when DSG downshifte from 3rd to second gear. I did install one and it improved things:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/mkv-gti-rabbit-dogbone-mount-insert-kit-red/1k0198000r~3/
This video will help with removal and installation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQM_WWtcoKQ