Duralast Clutch, Bad Idea???

I'm basically stuck between a Southbend clutch and a Duralast from Autozone. Duralast is a little cheaper and has lifetime warranty, which I like. Both are single mass flywheels. All I need it to hold is stock power. Anyone have experience? Is it a total peice of junk?

Most Duralast stuff is Chinese junk. Why not just get a good quality name brand kit (Sachs, Luk, or Valeo) from a reputable vendor?

Lifetime warranty all too often means a lifetime spent replacing the darn thing.

However, it is *possible* that the Duralast kit is decent quality, after all, they are just a rebox. I would want to look at it and see, but still probably would not want to use it.

If you are sure that you are staying stock, you can not beat this deal!
Quality clutch at a fantastic price. Complete, flywheel , presure plate, disk, and throw-out bearing.
https://www.amazon.com/LuK-17-050-Clutch-Set/dp/compatibility-chart/B000CI8XTK

single mass ?

maxmoo said:

If you are sure that you are staying stock, you can not beat this deal!
Quality clutch at a fantastic price. Complete, flywheel , pressure plate, disk, and throw-out bearing.
https://www.amazon.com/LuK-17-050-Clutch-Set/dp/compatibility-chart/B000CI8XTK

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Is that a single mass flywheel ? ... if it is I'll jump on that like a dawg on a bone.

SledDawg2 said:

Is that a single mass flywheel ? ... if it is I'll jump on that like a dawg on a bone.

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It is a dual mass flywheel.......they are smoother and quieter than smf's......and they last a long time ....how many miles on your original DMF?
In a stock car I would definately prefer a DMF personaly.

the luk dmf referenced above is far and away better than the stock sachs unit your car came with... buy with confidence, it's a high quality german built part

I also say go with the LUK. If you want it quicker the cheap napa clutch is that same kit. With coupons and online reserve you can get it around $225. Thats whats in my car.


*edit* its actually a little more now.. part number is NCF 1117050

We had a Jetta towed in with the clutch not disengaging. They told us they had just put in a clutch themselves bought at Autozone. After it didn't work they tried a new slave and master cylinder too.

We pulled it apart and could not fault their work. We sold them a real clutch kit for $20 less than Autozone charged them for the fake one. It worked perfectly.

Single mass unit, both of them.

After installing two T-stats in my 1989 Carat Vanagon from AutoZone (ironically not made in China) that would not allow the engine to warm up, I purchased a German made brand from eBay for about the same price... AutoZone did take back their T-stat!

Last Fall, I also installed a Hydra-boost power steering unit in my 92 GMC 4X4 from AutoZone ......... darn thing leaked as bad as the old one! They did replace it. But, gee, all the darn work! But, I considering it was a reman, I could have had the same bad luck at any of the other places, even a mom and pop operation!

Autozone, carquest, Napa, they are all about the same thing now. Not necessarily all chinese but driven by price shopping markets to buy and supply cheap parts.

I knew a guy that owned a Napa store and he learned to test all the alternators and starters that he got for restock before he put them on the shelf. He said 40% of them failed right out of the box. His over the counter return rate decreased after starting testing.

At least some of our better suppliers list parts ny brand name too, so you can choose between the good stuff and the used car lot requested stuff.

When in doubt buy it from the dealer, and we are buying a lot from the dealers anymore. It is the difference between fixing something the first time or doing it right the second time anyway.

The South Bend stage 2 was over $600 and the Duralast was $300 so I decided to go with the Luk 17-050 from Amazon for $188. It should be here today. Thanks!

You may also want to change the clutch fork, spring clip and pivot pin once you are in there.....they can and do fail especially on higher milage vehicles.
Also check rear crank seal if there is any sign of leaking oil now is the time to change it....if it's dry I would leave it alone.
http://www.idparts.com/clutch-release-lever-a3b4a4a5-brm-p-1461.html
http://www.idparts.com/clutch-release-lever-ball-pin-speed-p-1837.html
http://www.idparts.com/clutch-release-lever-clip-a3b4a4a5-brm-p-1462.html
http://www.idparts.com/rear-mainshaft-seal-oem-a4b55-p-5676.html

maxmoo said:

You may also want to change the clutch fork, spring clip and pivot pin once you are in there.....they can and do fail especially on higher milage vehicles.
Also check rear crank seal if there is any sign of leaking oil now is the time to change it....if it's dry I would leave it alone.
http://www.idparts.com/clutch-release-lever-a3b4a4a5-brm-p-1461.html
http://www.idparts.com/clutch-release-lever-ball-pin-speed-p-1837.html
http://www.idparts.com/clutch-release-lever-clip-a3b4a4a5-brm-p-1462.html
http://www.idparts.com/rear-mainshaft-seal-oem-a4b55-p-5676.html

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Thanks! I'll have to get those ordered. With 260k miles I'm doing suspension, turbo, and clutch job all at once. Also timing belt kit soon after. Seems kinda crazy on a $3500 car but then I know it's gonna be reliable for a good while longer. Hopefully get another 200k outta it! Haha

Got mine today .... LUK >>> Sticker says, Made in Germany (fine print, 10/4/16).

For my ALH in the Vanagon (Very mild, but nice Stage 1 Malone Tune).

Although my clutch does not slip, the combo of a used SMF and aftermarket pieces parts just don't satisfy me. The SMF rattles and the aftermarket, Made in USA no-name brand disc, has been "grabby" from day one. The pressure plate is a Sach.

So, the LUK DMF will be really nice!

NAPA has good and bad. Everything on there site lists a warranty policy page and if it says cardone stay away from it.


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Had the same question as OP and decided to order the LuK 17-050 Clutch Set on Amazon, as suggested in this thread. I received the set a couple days ago, but it was missing the alignment tool. Made a customer service request for the alignment tool yesterday evening. This morning I checked my inbox for a reply and, to my delight, they are sending me another complete clutch set via expedited mail! Supposed to be getting it in the mail tomorrow.

Good choice, hopefully Amazon doesn't sell you some grey market thing, most people have had good like buying those kits there.

tipsyskipper said:

Had the same question as OP and decided to order the LuK 17-050 Clutch Set on Amazon, as suggested in this thread. I received the set a couple days ago, but it was missing the alignment tool. Made a customer service request for the alignment tool yesterday evening. This morning I checked my inbox for a reply and, to my delight, they are sending me another complete clutch set via expedited mail! Supposed to be getting it in the mail tomorrow.

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That's funny as heck, since you don't even need the tool.

mjydrafter said:

That's funny as heck, since you don't even need the tool.

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Oh, well. I’m new to VW, Jettas, diesel, and replacing clutches, so I didn’t know. I’ve been watching lots of videos about replacing a clutch on this car and most of them mention the importance of using the alignment tool. I probably need the tool, if only for my peace of mind.


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The clutch comes pre-assembled with the pressure plate and flywheel, which is why you don't need the tool...... (if you buy one that has two parts you DO need it.)

Genesis said:

The clutch comes pre-assembled with the pressure plate and flywheel, which is why you don't need the tool...... (if you buy one that has two parts you DO need it.)

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Ah, well that makes sense. But I thought you needed it to align the clutch set where it attaches to the drive. Is that not the case? The six bolts in the pressure plate are enough to get it in alignment?

FWIW, the second set came today and it also doesn’t have the alignment tool. I think Amazon needs to change their listing...


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I've only seen the alignment tool isn't necessary if your clutch comes pre-assembled. The DMF kits have holes in the pressure plate fingers so you can get to the triple square bolts for the flywheel.

If your clutch came in pieces, I'd say you need the alignment tool. Needed it when I installed my Valeo, and my SB3

Nero Morg said:

I've only seen the alignment tool isn't necessary if your clutch comes pre-assembled. The DMF kits have holes in the pressure plate fingers so you can get to the triple square bolts for the flywheel.



If your clutch came in pieces, I'd say you need the alignment tool. Needed it when I installed my Valeo, and my SB3

Click to expand...

Yeah, this set has the holes in the pressure plate to get to the six bolts in the flywheel, which is, of course, what I intended to say in my previous comment. Thanks!


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I should have specified, that you don't need the tool with the LUK 17-050 clutch kit. Since it's pre-assembled.



You will need it for other clutches that aren't.


Just a guess, but that may be why it doesn't come with the kit anymore.

I purchased the LUK 17-050 for my BEW Jetta, it was very well priced on Amazon and it feels just like the car did when it was new. My car was a German build and had a SACHS clutch come out of it. Replacement was required because the throwout bearing had a deep groove in it and I couldn't release the clutch fully. The friction material had lots of life left at 500,000km.