Did the dealership tell me accurate buyback information???

Slickshoes

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So I was recently at my local Vw dealership as it was time for my 30,000 mile oil change and check up. BTW, I own a 2015 Vw Passat TDI SEL that was affected by the emissions scandal. I haven't officially decided if I'm going to take the cash once they fix the vehicle and keep it or sell the car back to Vw. However, I was having this discussion with my service representative whom coincidentally was having the same dilemma I am with her Vw diesel. Then she mentioned well " you better hurry". I responded with why??? She then told me that 65% of people affected by the scandal have made their decisions and once VW reaches 85% of the affected vehicles they don't have to provide any reimbursement whether you keep it or sell it. Is this accurate?????? Or am I getting fed horse manure?

I did run across this in an article I read "Part of Volkswagen's agreement with regulators said that if 85 percent of the vehicles equipped with defeat devices hadn't been fixed by 2019, the automaker would be forced to pony up additional fines". I'm curious if this is what she (the service rep) was referring to?

Can someone help provide clarity on this matter:confused:
 

GoFaster

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No, they've misunderstood. The 85% was a target, but they have to keep offering the deal to anyone who wants it ... as long as they act before the deadline, which IIRC is Sept 2018 to file and Dec 2018 to get it done (whether buyback or fix).

If they don't reach that target then VW has to pay additional fines, but they do not have to stop offering the deal to consumers if they exceed that target.
 

TDIforDays

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Exactly, there is no way VW would be allowed to just stop all of a sudden. They MUST reach AT LEAST 85% to satisfy the terms of settlement. If they do that before deadline, they will just end the program at deadline. If they do not, they will have to extend the program to get to 85%.

However, she is correct that over 60% of cars were already taken care of.
 

DanB36

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Exactly, there is no way VW would be allowed to just stop all of a sudden. They MUST reach AT LEAST 85% to satisfy the terms of settlement. If they do that before deadline, they will just end the program at deadline. If they do not, they will have to extend the program to get to 85%.
There's no provision in any of the settlements to extend the program. As already stated, if they don't reach 85%, they need to pay additional fines.
 

demagxc

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I haven't officially decided if I'm going to take the cash once they fix the vehicle and keep it or sell the car back to Vw.
Just an FYI, you can either get the fix OR sell it back. Its one or the other. You cant take the fix and then sell it back under the buyback program after the fact. So before you bring it in for the fix just be sure that's what you want because there is no going back.
 

tadawson

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Just an FYI, you can either get the fix OR sell it back. Its one or the other. You cant take the fix and then sell it back under the buyback program after the fact. So before you bring it in for the fix just be sure that's what you want because there is no going back.
Actually, there are three viable choices. The Fix, The Buyback, and Do Nothing . . . (the settlement prevents states that have taken $$ from denying registration for the "Do Nothing" crowd.)
 

Slickshoes

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Thanks to everyone for providing clarity. I had a feeling the service representative was somewhat confused with her interpretation. Currently, here are my options: 1. Get it fixed and receive $8,081.73. 2. Sell it back and receive $33,556.73. 3. Continue driving the car and do nothing and hold out as long as possible.

I think option three provides the best bang for my buck. I can continue to drive my car while incurring very minor depreciation. Still owe 9k and want to pay the car off as well. Why expedite the decision making process just to put wear and tear on another new vehicle? I'm going to take advantage of Vw's lack of integrity on this one. Plus, I just sunk some money into the car for the 30,000 mile check up. Just my 2 cents.
 

PacCoastFwy923

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I agree with your analysis of Option #3. I'd have done the same (and my frugal wife, too) if she didn't have such a disagreeable relationship with the Passat. Not that it was a bad car -- she bought the wrong car and didn't realize it until too late.

But you're right. We bought the replacement car at the end of September. It's got 10,000 miles on it now, was rear ended in a minor incident, has curb-rashed wheels, and the model is about to receive a major redesign for the 2018 model year. She could have been driving the Passat this whole time, losing practically no value, all in anticipation of a new car a year from now.

Financially, strictly speaking, we made a poor choice. But she's really happy with replacement car, accidents happen, she'd curb her wheels no matter what or when, and it's not like the decision has negatively impacted us.

If it were just me, I'd have stuck it out until the end.
 

Rico567

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Thanks to everyone for providing clarity. I had a feeling the service representative was somewhat confused with her interpretation. Currently, here are my options: 1. Get it fixed and receive $8,081.73. 2. Sell it back and receive $33,556.73. 3. Continue driving the car and do nothing and hold out as long as possible.
<snip>
What you list as option #3 isn't exactly correct, given your subsequent description of what you plan to do. Option #3 means to "just keep it, period, and drive on." You do nothing, get no money, but if your state has taken a piece of the settlement pie, they cannot refuse to license and register your car based on its emissions.
What it appears you are intending to do, by which I take the sense of "-holding out as long as possible-", is to do the "holdout" strategy on #1: wait until late next year and turn it in for the buyback. That's exactly what we're doing, and for the same reason. The car can be driven on the cheap, very low cost per mile, for nearly another year and a half, and if it gets some dings, road rash, windshield chips -all those things cars accumulate- they simply disappear with the car, for which we get a check for only a few thousand less than we paid in 2013.
 

Slickshoes

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What you list as option #3 isn't exactly correct, given your subsequent description of what you plan to do. Option #3 means to "just keep it, period, and drive on."
In my opinion option 3 is correct "keep it, period, and drive on" is referring to holding out as long as possible until I am forced to make a decision. It's clearly obvious no one will want to keep the car and just keep driving it, thus failing to collect on free money. Hence, why I didn't feel the need to provide further explanation. Clearly, everyone else understood my point. However, thanks for clarifying as it sounds like we are both in the same boat ;)
 

DanB36

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It's clearly obvious no one will want to keep the car and just keep driving it, thus failing to collect on free money.
No, it isn't "clearly obvious" (which I guess is more obvious than simply "obvious"). You might think so, but there have been a number of folks here who have said they're doing this very thing.
 

tadawson

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In my opinion option 3 is correct "keep it, period, and drive on" is referring to holding out as long as possible until I am forced to make a decision. It's clearly obvious no one will want to keep the car and just keep driving it, thus failing to collect on free money. Hence, why I didn't feel the need to provide further explanation. Clearly, everyone else understood my point. However, thanks for clarifying as it sounds like we are both in the same boat ;)
Considering that I think I was the first to mention 'option #3', fwiw, I certainly was *NOT* referring to a simple delay. A lot of folks have considered never doing anything, pending reports (or even availability) of fixes. As I have said over and over: Not everything is based on money . . . Had there been no fix for my Passat, I would likely be on that track as well, With no viable replacement (to me) out there, it would be the only logical choice . . .
 

Slickshoes

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My option 3 was "Continue driving the car and do nothing and hold out as long as possible.". Holding out as long as possible before having to sell my car back. So it varied from your option of doing nothing all together. I feel holding out makes the most sense and allows for the highest ROI. However, as you stated tadawson, not everyone is in it for the money. I certainly love my car too but I'll make the financially sound decision here and maxi out the term and not worry about depreciation on another vehicle, while collecting a chunk of cash in the end : D
 

rambalu80

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I am in a similar situation as SlickShoes, with the exception that I have decided that I will be doing the buyback and already have an approved offer from VW as of Jan 2017. All I have to do is sign, notarize and return the offer, and schedule my buyback date. I am also quite certain on what the replacement will be, but I am holding out because:

1. We still love the 2011 JSW
2. It runs just fine
3. Its fully paid off
4. The only foreseeable expenses over the next year are an oil change, a fuel filter change and registration renewal
5. It seems to me like a wise financial decision to hold on to it in for another year.

As for possible differences from the offer I have received, I am currently tracking well under 12000 miles a year and if anything, I expect at least $450 more (and perhaps $930 more) than the buyback amount on the offer depending on how long I hold on to the JSW.

All of this said, I am hearing mixed responses on whether or not VW has to honor buybacks after they have hit their minimum goal of 85% even if it is well before the deadline of December 2018.

From the first few responses on this thread, I gather that VW will have to accept my car (all other conditions being met) as long as I have signed up for buyback before Sep 2018 and turn my car in before Dec 31 2018.
 
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DanB36

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All of this said, I am hearing mixed responses on whether or not VW has to honor buybacks after they have hit their minimum goal of 85% even if it is well before the deadline of December 2018.
There is no ambiguity in any of the settlement materials--VW must honor buybacks for the entire settlement period.
 

Slickshoes

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Here we go again. I dropped my car off for a free inspection today and ran into the same service representative. She quickly recalled our previous conversation and said "so have you determined what you are going to do with your car?". I replied with "not yet". She then began explaining again that VW is at 65% and once they reach 80% you will not get reimbursed for the buyback or modification option. How can this representative blatantly lie and try to pressure people like that? If she told me that VW will get fined if they don't meet a certain % by a certain date that's one thing, but this is going too far!
 

740GLE

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That's some good salesmanship right there, the dealer should give her a gold sticker for the month.

Wont be the first nor last time someone at a dealer lies, don't take it personal.
 

2015vwgolfdiesel

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Here we go again. I dropped my car off for a free inspection today and ran into the same service representative. She quickly recalled our previous conversation and said "so have you determined what you are going to do with your car?". I replied with "not yet". She then began explaining again that VW is at 65% and once they reach 80% you will not get reimbursed for the buyback or modification option. How can this representative blatantly lie and try to pressure people like that? If she told me that VW will get fined if they don't meet a certain % by a certain date that's one thing, but this is going too far!
We know the 80 % is wrong.

Wonder if she is correct about the 65 % figure ?
 

2015vwgolfdiesel

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My option 3 was "Continue driving the car and do nothing and hold out as long as possible.".

Holding out as long as possible before having to sell my car back. So it varied from your option of doing nothing all together.

I feel holding out makes the most sense and allows for the highest ROI. However, as you stated tadawson, not everyone is in it for the money.

I certainly love my car too but I'll make the financially sound decision here and maxi out the term and not worry about depreciation on another vehicle, while collecting a chunk of cash in the end : D

..... by doing the BB at the last possible time ... is great in two ways.

1) Less depreciation on your new car

2) The longer you take to get a new car the cheaper it will be
 

showdown 42

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The situation with the 3.0s is quite different. Gen#1 is now either fix (there is no fix yet) or sell back, Gen#2-3 is now fix or nothing. They have stopped the buy back, so you are somewhat screwed if you want a new car. Selling the car will be an issue from a market value. I'm in the first group and will wait for the fix. If nothing I will sell back for a crazy amount since my car has very low mileage. I will then turn around and buy a newer 15 or 16 with low mileage.

The whole thing stinks from top to bottom.
 

fr@nknb33n$

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I agree with everyone. I'm keeping mine till the bitter end. My 2012 Golf has 98,000 miles. I'll be doing the last oil change and fuel filter replacement in a couple of months. But will ride it out till August. Should have about 108,000 by then, if that. I'm still rocking OEM brake pads and rotors. LOL. I'm an engine braker, love to downshift. Clutch is fine too. Getting a solid 40MPG.

A new car payment is going to be easily $500/per month x 10 months...that's another $5,000 I can pocket on top of the $19K I'll be getting from VW. Win, win.

Trust me, not easy, I would love to slip into a 2017 Golf GTI Autobahn...my friggin door latches have been acting up, not allowing me to close my driver and passenger door. I refuse to pay VW the quoted $600 a door to repair. Bungie cords are working quite well for now. LOL. Ding all you want, dashboard.
 
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GoFaster

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Here we go again. I dropped my car off for a free inspection today and ran into the same service representative. She quickly recalled our previous conversation and said "so have you determined what you are going to do with your car?". I replied with "not yet". She then began explaining again that VW is at 65% and once they reach 80% you will not get reimbursed for the buyback or modification option. How can this representative blatantly lie and try to pressure people like that? If she told me that VW will get fined if they don't meet a certain % by a certain date that's one thing, but this is going too far!
Q: How do you know whether a car salesperson is lying?

A: Their lips are moving.

As others have stated ... VW has NO CHOICE but to honor buyback appointments through to the end of the settlement period. You have to make a commitment before a certain date which I believe is Sept 2018, and the buyback has to be completed by Dec 2018.

Aim to get it done in August to be sure.

Plenty of folks here are more educated on this settlement than dealer salespeople are.
 

surfstar

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If nothing I will sell back for a crazy amount since my car has very low mileage. I will then turn around and buy a newer 15 or 16 with low mileage.

The whole thing stinks from top to bottom.
Really?
That sounds [smells] like a pretty good deal to me.
 

Slickshoes

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So, I recently looked up the KBB value of my car. 2015 Passat TDI SEL in excellent condition with 36,000 miles. Trade in value is $14,586-$16,533 and private sale value is $17,205-$19,520.

The buyback valuation is $33,556.73 (projecting miles 35,001 - 40,000). If I put another 10k miles on my car the valuation only drops down to $32,476.73, which is only a $1,080 difference. Another 10k miles on top of that only a $1,050 difference.

I guess I need to rack up as many miles as possible between now and September 2018. Challenge accepted!
 

walterwood

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23U3 modification vs. buyback - - which is better?

What conclusions have been reached by the experts here about the basic "buy back" vs. "do modification" decision? I have a 2009 TDI Jetta SW in CA, with 33,063 mileage, not yet 23U3 "modified," soon to need a CA "smog" certification. Am I correct that it will not "pass" smog testing unless I do the 23U3 "modification" ? Has there now been enough experience with the "modification" to know what it will do to the long term life of the engine and MPG? Should I have VW buy back my car or alternatively should I go ahead with the "modification" and keep it? I like the car and am thinking do the modification unless this will lead to problems. Any advise?
 

GoFaster

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It will pass your smog test. (It was designed to.) Since California is one of the many states that accepted money from the VW settlement, they are also obligated to NOT require you to have the fix done.

You will get an additional 4 years of warranty on the engine and the emission control systems, and most importantly, on that infernal HPFP. You're not putting enough mileage on the car to run into the mileage limits of the warranty.

(Are you really only driving 4000 mile per year??)
 

walterwood

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RE: 23U3 modification vs. buyback - - which is better?

So now I'm thinking do the CA smog test without first doing the "modification" and further postpone the decision. Low mileage is because not commuting anymore. Thanks!

It will pass your smog test. (It was designed to.) Since California is one of the many states that accepted money from the VW settlement, they are also obligated to NOT require you to have the fix done.

You will get an additional 4 years of warranty on the engine and the emission control systems, and most importantly, on that infernal HPFP. You're not putting enough mileage on the car to run into the mileage limits of the warranty.

(Are you really only driving 4000 mile per year??)
 
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