2003 Golf Alternator Pulley R&R

Since I haven't seen a writeup for this, I thought I would do one.

Note: While the New Beetle is an A4 vehicle, the clearances are very tight in the area. I was not able to remove the alternator by link below. Others have had more luck than I have.

First, put the car up on ramps or jackstands to give you room to work. Remove the bellypan, and the right sideskirt. BTW, you will probably find the missing pulley in the bellypan.

I found it easier to remove the lower intercooler tube just to give me working room, but not absolutely necessary. One 10 mm nut and two clamps.

I followed Wingnuts excellent How-to on removing the alternator. No use reinventing the wheel, so here is the link.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=932019

Not mentioned in the alternator removal thread is to remove the hoses near the cooling fans from their clamps. You may find that gives you more room.

When you have your alternator out, you will probably see something like this.


Stand the alternator on the rear portion on a sturdy work surface. You will need to remove the old portion threaded onto the alternator. Metalnerd makes an excellent set of tools to accomplish this, as seen below.


You will need a set of vice grips or a pipe wrench as shown below. Insert the triple square bit to hold the alternator from spinning. Using your pipe wrench to hold the failed portion, turn the ratchet clockwise to unscrew the failed part.



This is what you end up with.



This is the new part you need to replace the pulley. EDIT: 022 903 119 C is new part #.



Before you put the new pulley on the alternator, you have to remove a protective cap. A small screwdriver will do this nicely.



Put the new pulley onto the alternator, and spin down until it is snug.



Using the Metalnerd spline tool and triple square tool, tighten the pulley to the alternator. No torque value is in Bentley, so I used "good and snug". . Use a wrench to hold the spline tool when tightening. Torque to 59 ft/lb (80 nm). Thanks MOGolf for the torque value.



Snap the protective plastic cap back in place to protect the bearing and threads.

Now is the time to replace the alternator in the car. One suggestion to make it easier. Place the alternator ear that has the threaded insert into a vise. Put a socket over one side, and tighten the vise to move the threaded insert, as seen below. Suddenly, it's very easy to put the alternator in the car. Otherwise, very tight tolerances to replace in mount. Don't worry, the inserts will be back in the right place when you tighten the mounting bolts. A large pin punch is very helpful in aligning the ears for bolt insertion. You can do the same thing for the AC compressor with a C Clamp and socket for ease of installation. I've also had success with a socket and a large pair of channel lock pliers.



Follow the removal instructions in reverse order to put everything back in place. Put your new serpentine belt in place. (Image stolen from MoGolf) One thing I've encountered. I had a car that the serpentine belt actually SHRANK due to the heat generated during failure/slipping. I know this is true because I put the new belt on a few months ago. Plan on replacing the belt with a new one.




Torque specs you need:
Alternator mounting bolts 18 ft/lbs
AC compressor mounting bolts 33 ft/lbs
Serpentine belt tensioner 18 ft/lbs

Special thanks to Wingnut for the removal instruction, and Chuck (Metalnerd) for the great tools!

Awesome Job Bruce. I have had a lot of request for this info. It makes things so much easier when someone takes the time to write up instructions with pictures. I have this in my favorites and will add a link to the alternator Re & Re how to for cross reference.

Thanks again

I'd like to second the advice on putting the alt into a vice to move the threaded inserts a bit for easier installation.
Some mechanics simply thread in the long bolt and give the head a "calibrated' tap with a small hammer to move the insert out a bit...or worse still is to tap the insert with a hammer in an attempt to move it...the die casting metal of the alt casing is very brittle and can snap off.
A mechanic was showing me both methods on an old casing.....the hammer on the bolt trick worked but the hammer on the insert trick broke the casing.
The a/c compressor has a similar threaded insert.

Excellent how-to.

Ted

R&R the pulley

I just had my pulley go bad. I ended up taking the alternator all the way out as well, which was NOT an enjoyable nor character building exercise. After taking it all apart to check the bearings, brushes, etc., I found that you can't get to the front bearing to grease it. I couldn't find a place around here that could pull the from cover off, so I'm going to leave it. The back bearing was a snap. After ordering the same 'tool' from Germanautoworks.com, I had NO issue removing the remnants of the old pulley. I live in an apartment and have no place for a vise. It came off far easier than removing the alternator from the car, I can tell you that! I'm stilly annoyed that these pulleys go bad after so few miles. Just under 70k for me. Okay, so maybe I did build some character after R&R'ing the thing. On to a stealth race pipe!

R&R of the alternator pulley: Done!

Well, I finished putting everything back together after putting on the new pulley. Here is my personal summary/opinion on my experience:

1) Follow Wingnut's directions
2) I used a bucket (plastic plant pot) to support the compressor versus a a wire because I didn't find anything handy to hang it from. Ditto for the cooling fan. (2 different size plastic pots; the compressor had a taller bucket)
3) I confirm that moving the alternator around and out is VERY difficult with all the hoses around in there.
4) My pulley was COMPLETELY broken off except for the shaft, which was removable with the metalnerd tool. (i.e. buy the tool)
5) I don't have a vice, but DEFINITELY use a c-clamp or something to move the 'taps' or threaded inserts in the alternator back to ease installation. (This was by FAR the hardest part of re-installing as I didn't do this; also due to not having c-clamps)
6) I installed a new serpentine belt because it was only $15 from Impex, and for that much, I'd rather not have to take everything apart again to replace it! Also...does anyone have the part # for those silver star thingies that hold on the plastic side skirt? (It connects to the belly pan)
7) The shipping took some time from Impex since they're in MD and I'm in CA, so if you don't have a patient spouse to pick you up from work for a week, you may want express delivery.

turkeyssr said:

Also...does anyone have the part # for those silver star thingies that hold on the plastic side skirt? (It connects to the belly pan)

Click to expand...

Many hardware stores carry a nylon nut that can replace the star thingies. Just use a fender washer with it to retain the side skirt on the stud.

FYI, a writeup with pictures for the alternator pulley.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=1398113#post1398113

Audio of the a squeaky alternator pulley

Here is a 34 second recording of my bad alternator pulley. I thought it would be helpful to anyone attempting to diagnose their situation. I had made the recording some time ago, and it completey disappeared and then finally the pulley went kaboom! When I say completely, I would say it was the audible portion. It was still there manifesting itself as a kind of 'jerkiness' to the engine running.

http://media.putfile.com/TDI-Alternator-Pulley-Squeak

I have joined the club! My alternator pulley broke off yesterday on the way home from work. I noticed a squeak when I went to lunch, then it turned into a "gear noise" or some type of a grinding sound. Almost like a supercharger. Then, a few miles down the road -- "Clunk!" -- no power steering! Weeeee!

Pulled the alternator last night (50 minutes). Just waiting for the tool to come from Metalnerd and the pulley from Impex. If all goes well, I'll have it back together this weekend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by turkeyssr
Also...does anyone have the part # for those silver star thingies that hold on the plastic side skirt? (It connects to the belly pan)

paramedick said:

Many hardware stores carry a nylon nut that can replace the star thingies. Just use a fender washer with it to retain the side skirt on the stud.

FYI, a writeup with pictures for the alternator pulley.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=1398113#post1398113

Click to expand...

Shhhhhhh. You didn't hear this from me, but the appropriate sized plastic drywall anchor will work. Lovingly referred to as aggie engineering.

turkeyssr said:

Also...does anyone have the part # for those silver star thingies that hold on the plastic side skirt? (It connects to the belly pan)

Click to expand...

Well, I didn't believe that these were a separate item, but ETKA informs me that I am wrong

N 903 350 04 Clamping washer

turkeyssr said:

I used a bucket (plastic plant pot) to support the compressor versus a a wire because I didn't find anything handy to hang it from. Ditto for the cooling fan. (2 different size plastic pots; the compressor had a taller bucket)

Click to expand...

BTW, an upended plastic milk crate makes an admirable rest for the compressor and the fan assembly

My car is up on a lift, so it would have to be a TALL milk crate! lol!

I just wired it up while I got the alternator out, then slid the compressor back into place with one bolt shoved in while I wait for the pulley & tool to arrive. I already have a set of triple square long bits, so I already have the remnants of the pulley off of the alternator.

Good timing, though... as my mom is on vacation, and I have the keys to her 2004 Jetta PD TDI!

Clunk!

McBrew said:

Then, a few miles down the road -- "Clunk!" -- no power steering! Weeeee! Pulled the alternator last night (50 minutes).
I already have a set of triple square long bits, so I already have the remnants of the pulley off of the alternator.quote]

So did drive the remainder fo the way on battery power? I was wondering how long (far) it would go without charging. I got lucky and it blew up after driving home in my parking space! I'm impressed with the 50 minutes, I'll tell you that!
Also, what are 'triple square long bits' and how did you use them?

Click to expand...

turkeyssr said:

Also, what are 'triple square long bits' and how did you use them?

Click to expand...

That's the long bit pictured below. It holds the alternator shaft so the hub remnant of the pulley can be removed.

turkeyssr, as paramedick said, you can see the tool above. What I have already is the long bit... what I don't have is the bit that the long one goes through that holds the pulley. It is on order from MetalNerd, and comes with both pieces. Oh, well... can't have too many tools, right?

To use them, the long bit (triple square) goes down through the pulley and holds the alternator, while you can use a wrench on the outer bit to tighten the pulley. Not like the good old days when a pulley was held on with a bolt! A "triple square" is so-called because it has 12 points, just like if you put three square pieces of paper in a stack, evenly rotated so that it formed a twelve point star.

Yes, I drove the rest of the way home. It was still daylight, so I didn't need to run the headlights. I turned the fan off and rolled a couple of windows down. I guess it was about 30 miles from where it broke to my house... I am sure I could have gone a lot further... but probably not if I needed headlights!

just picked up the pulley from Impex for $75. For giggles, I called the local VW dealership: $125.23 and NOT in stock!

Well I just replaced my timing belt yesterday and today. I noticed a noise last week and figured I would just go ahead and change it, a little early but what the heck. I stumbled on this and I think Ya'll figured out what my problem is. Good Job!

I have a couple of questions: When the pulley breaks, does the water pump still function (is it driven by another belt), so you can drive the car home to repair?

Also, I'd imagine since its so dang hard to ge the alternator out, you should replace the regulator brushes. How much are those and where do you get them? Does the alternator actually have to be removed to replace the brushes?

Tx.

--Nate

Your water pump will be fine.

Re brushes. I didn't because of the relatively mileage. This would definitely be helpful for a high mileage car. The VR is available separately for the Bosch 120 alternators. Dunno about others.

To elaborate on what paramedick just said, the water pump is driven by the timing belt, not the accessory (alternator) belt. The only things you will lose if the accessory belt goes are: alternator, power steering, and A/C.

Nate, keep in mind that there may be some minor differences in the procedure with your PD engine. However, it is really not hard to R&R the alternator. It sounds like a lot of steps, but they are relatively easy. Like any job, having the right tools makes all the difference!

I received my alt. pulley tool from MetalNerd yesterday and just finished putting the alternator back on the car.

Many thanks to paramedick for putting this how-to together. It was much easier than trying to figure out what has to come off real-time!

PS: It helps to pop the two hoses that run past the bottom of the fan out of their clamps.

Replace the brushes?

PDJetta said:

Also, I'd imagine since its so dang hard to ge the alternator out, you should replace the regulator brushes. How much are those and where do you get them? Does the alternator actually have to be removed to replace the brushes? --Nate

Click to expand...

Well, I was thinking the same thing about the brushes, but because it failed with only ~70k on it, I checked and it didn't need them. The commutator was looking a bit worn, but not bad enough to worry me yet. I was going to grease the front bearing, but I couldn't get to it. In short, if it happened to me with that few miles on it again, I wouldn't even take the alternator apart. I would simply replace the pulley and put the darn thing back on. Also, if it *did* need brushes, they're on the back in a plastic housing and are incredibly easy to install. I can't offer you a part number.

Oops... I can't read... see below.

McBrew said:

Oh, by the way, I don't think your (paramedick) instructions mentioned putting the plastic 'dust cover' back on the pulley. This can be done any time, even after the alternator is back on the car... it just snaps on. Don't throw it away!

Click to expand...

Yup, mentioned after the picture of tightening the pulley. I'll add the suggestion of removing the hoses from the holders. I forgot that.

Oops, my bad... somehoe I missed that sentence. Maybe I set my beer down on top of it!

My pulley hasn't flown off yet. I can't get the darn thing to break loose. I put the triple square tool through the spline tool. Push the triple square tool down until it seats, then seat the spline tool with a wrench on it. I turn the ratchet counter clock-wise. It won't budge. Am I turning it the wrong way or just not holding my mouth right. I even tried to turn the wrench and all I got out of it was a headache from the strainin'

justin

I got it, I recon I had just to get a little mad. I found out you torque it to 65 NM or 48 ft/lbs.

jhixf564 said:

I got it, I recon I had just to get a little mad. I found out you torque it to 65 NM or 48 ft/lbs.

Click to expand...

Mad, huh? How's this to make one mad: (GRRRR!!!?!!!)
You were fortunate, I was not. The shaft in which the 12 point Metalnerd bit fits into just completely F-ING STRIPPED!!! MAN MY ASS IS SO FROSTED RIGHT NOW!!! And yes, the bit was seated all of the way down, as it stripped all the way to the bottom of the recess. Unbelievable.

I was having a tough time, too. Kept rechecking and rechecking. Hit it with some heat. Nothing. Thread cracking goo. Nada. More pressure... STRIIIIP!

Well, there goes a couple of hundred down the drain now to get another one.

At least there's a core retrun to get rid of this POS! Seems IMPEX sells one w/o the pulley, too, to save a few bucks. Gee, lucky me.

I'll calm down in a sec, just needed to vent. Hate it when my Jetta's down due to engireering issues and not my own fault...

Whew... take care.

http://www.instockauto.com/epcksoap.epc?action=Search&cookieID=1VE15MYAU1VK0Z2F7H&drillid=7&subcatid=802937@@Alternator&clientid=instockauto

Check this place out. I bought a brand new alternator from them a few weeks ago with pulley. $212 shipped, no core to deal with and fast shipping.

Hi, and thanks.
Genuine Bosch?
120 AMP?
Rebuilt, I assume (?)
Never heard of them aside from your link. Have used IMPEX for many years, so I may just suck up the difference ($255) and keep on supporting them. Thanks a ton, though!

ps- fyi, Instockauto's website shows error reports on both of my computers when trying to open up the alternator descriptions. I'm going to stick with IMPEX, but thanks again

It was a 90 amp and I had the same problem with their site today. It's claimed as new and it is is a bosch, they also sell rebuilds for $40 less but I didn't feel like dealing with a core charge mail order.

http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=573

No idea whether this has the pulley. Call Peter and ask.