ALH Installed in 93 T100 4x4

dbywaters

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
98 ALH Powering a 1993 Toyota T100
I started this project a year ago, the truck had a blown v6 engine but the clutch was new (5 Speed manual seems to be ok). It had sit for over 3 years under a tree with the rear window slide open enough for a bird to nest in the heater... I had a wrecked 98 New Beetle TDI for parts and had previously converted a 99 Passat to TDI using a imported engine from the Cech Republic so this was not my first TDI Conversion, I also converted a 03 Saturn Vue from a 4 cyl with VTI to the 3.5 Honda engine that Saturn offered in 04. I am pretty apt at sorting and soldering wires..... lots of wires.

My goal is to have a pickup that offers 30mpg, I am not after a bunch of power or crawling but I did want 4x4 and the 8 foot bed. I used the ACME adapter kit, a started off of a newer Toyota V6, retained the Toyota A/C compressor, everything else is VW. I deleted the EGR and shutter valve, fabricated the motor mount brackets and re-used the Toyota mounts. I deleted the block heater to allow firewall clearance and routed hoses as best I could to retain somewhat of a stock appearance. I used a Passat coolant tank, retained the Toyota air filter box and modified it to accept the MAF sensor. Some of my tubing (Intake and charge air) is still PCV pipe, but I plan to convert to silicone hose and pipe as time goes on. The charge air cooler is sandwiched between the grill and A/C condenser, the cooler is from a Audi and only required minimal trimming of grill to make it work. The A/C condenser was raised about an inch to allow for tubing to pass between it and the opening below the condenser. The oil pan is original VW and the clearance be tween it and the front IFS is good. The mount for the steering damper had to be modified by welding an extension to the existing bracket. I re-used as many of the original Toyota circuits as possible, I do not have cruise enabled or intend too. The ECM is in the same location as stock and all wring interfaced to the two stock (grey and white) Toyota connectors. I modified the drive by wire throttle pot and mounted it under the hood to use the Toyota throttle cable. I made a custom bracket for the turbo actuator as the original position was not possible for the motor mount, my bracket uses a lever to allow the actuator head to point up, the turbo is stock. I retained the VW fuel filter, mounting it on the firewall. The exhaust is all 2" with the exception of the pipe leaving the turbo which is much smaller elbow to clear the starter, then it expands quickly to 2". I do not have a spring tensioner on the serp belt, I made a manual adjuster to make it work out. The Toyota battery is the same location as stock, I did modify and reuse the VW fuse box located on the battery to power the VW Fan(s). I still need to work out the A/C cooling but it not going to be warm enough for A/C for about 5 months anyway. I have about 20 miles on the truck now, I still have some bugs to work out but I am impressed how well it pulls. I feel like it needs another gear... maybe a 5th gear change in the future for more over drive. Of course the truck needs a bunch of cosmetic upgrades.. but that will come in time. I have the following videos on YouTube which show the progress. I believe the T100 is as easy of a conversion to work as any, although it did take a while to troubleshoot and engineer some of the installation. After some more shake down I plan to learn how to reduce some of the noise in the cab, I believe the OEM Toyota mounts are a bit harsh..but it is a truck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8u-qKh3MUf4

https://youtu.be/wQJpFErihSM

I hope this inspires somebody to give it a try!
 

Shenandoah

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2008
Location
Shenandoah Valley, VA
TDI
2005 Jetta Wagon; 2005 Beetle; 2004 Jetta; 2002 Golf (three of them); 2002 Jetta Wagon; 2000 Audi TT->TDI; 1999 Beetle
dbywaters,

Pretty cool. I'm doing an ALH swap into a 2000 Audi TT. From what I read above, mine sounds simple.......Thanks for posting.

Eric
 

A-man930

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2014
Location
St. Louis
TDI
Planning Stages: ALH Jeep MJ
+1 on the throttle cable idea! Although I'd hesitate to mount mine in the engine bay (Jeep problems :p )
 

dbywaters

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
98 ALH Powering a 1993 Toyota T100
reply to comments

I never drove the truck when the 3.0 was in it... so I don't know what I am missing..

Thanks for the positive notes and yes I will add another video and photos as time permits. I just added this thread for others to see a T100 install, nothing special but I had not seen another with images and video.

DB
 

lanorg

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Location
GTA
TDI
ALH, 11mm, vnt17, 1019, Jeep TJ @ 285km
Man that's a huge engine bay... so much room to work and build in. Congrats on the progress, TDI drivability with 4wheel drive is quite the combo.
 

dbywaters

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
98 ALH Powering a 1993 Toyota T100
Weight....

I have not planned to weigh it, I do know it sits higher in the front with this engine..... The rear of the truck is very lightly sprung compared to the front... or else I need to un-crank the torsion bars some.
 

Rockwell

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
I like the way you used the throttle cable!
I thought that was clever too. I looked at mounting mine on the engine side of the firewall but it never dawned on me to mount it anywhere but on the other side of the pedal. Overlooked a simple and easy solution
 

frambach

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
I can't seem to get the VW pedal 'just right' against the Toyota floorboard. I'm going to look at doing something like this.

dbywaters, can you explain in some more detail how you setup the pulley and throttle pedal in general?
 

dbywaters

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
98 ALH Powering a 1993 Toyota T100
I can't seem to get the VW pedal 'just right' against the Toyota floorboard. I'm going to look at doing something like this.

dbywaters, can you explain in some more detail how you setup the pulley and throttle pedal in general?
I carefully drilled the vw aluminum cable connector to accept the Toyota cable, the rest was mounting it in a way that it aligned with the mount. Actually pretty simple to do...

Doug
 

dbywaters

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
98 ALH Powering a 1993 Toyota T100
Connector on TPS

I modified the aluminum bell-crank on the VW TPS to accept the Toyota throttle cable. This required some careful drilling and notching to allow insertion of the cable end, but it seems to work very well.

Doug
 

frambach

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2012
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
TDI
3 ALHs
I'm left to put the info together and say that you must have sourced this bellcrank from another VW since the ALH is a drive-by-wire.

I only mess with TDI's. I'm not versed in all things VW...
 

dbywaters

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
98 ALH Powering a 1993 Toyota T100
Maybe I should have called it something different

What I refer to as a bell crank is the semi circular aluminum piece which the 98 throttle position sending unit is actuated. The TDI I installed is drive by wire, the VW actuator located within the throttle pedal assemble utilizes a short cable connecting the sending unit (cylindrical variable resistor of sorts) to the throttle pedal.
I disassembled the components and using a metal cutting saw I cut apart the bracket which the sending unit is mounted and used only part of the bracket required to mount the sending unit to the inside of the fender.
I then carefully modified the aluminum actuator arm (what I refer to as a "bell crank") that is connected to the position sending unit so could remove the existing cable and accept the Toyota throttle cable end. I will try to post a picture.
Yes, my TDI is drive by wire...

4th fill-up, 31mpg... :)
 

Hasenwerk

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 28, 2003
Location
Quesnel, BC
TDI
1982 Cabriolet (BEW|VNT17|Stage4), 1989 VW TriStar Syncro soon-to-be CR TDI (CBEA), 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 (ALH|VNT17|R520|Stage4)
Be careful! The potentiometer isn't water proof! I found this out the hard way miles from home.
 

dbywaters

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
98 ALH Powering a 1993 Toyota T100
Bead Roller

I built my own crimp tool to create beads on aluminum tube ends. I made it from a crimp tool designed for TV Coax connectors and a small bolt. I welded the bolt in one of the crimp openings, ground and filed it to a shape close the bead shape . I mounted the tool in a vice and with the help of a cheater tube on the handle I was able to create acceptable (to me) beads on the ends of charge air tubing. You can see a video in the link below.

https://youtu.be/uNhY97Yu75g
 

dbywaters

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
98 ALH Powering a 1993 Toyota T100
I now have A/C in the T100!

Other than mounting the toyota compressor there are two additional hurdles to cross to have A/C in the conversion. 1st is to fool the A/C amplifier circuit board (located on top of the Evaporator behind the glove box) to think the engine is running and the 2nd is to make electric fans cycle when the Head pressure reaches maximum rather than have them run continuously.

I wanted to retain the amplifier board as it incorporates temperature and pressure cycling of the compressor rather than have it run continuously. In researching the circuit board I found it also cycles the compressor if the engine RPM is too low... well I did not tie in my TDI ECM to the Tach signal.. so I had to find a bypass. I found that putting a voltage on pin2 of the IC Chip on the circuit board effectively bypasses the RPM cutout. I added a resistor to drop the voltage some, the image below shows the resistor and wiring I added to fake out the RPM... and also, simply turning the dial to its lowest setting did not allow the A/C to operate.




The second hurdle is to control the radiator fans. I am using the VW radiator and fans from the New Beetle donor car, so I retained the radiator mounted thermostat for fan low-speed. I believe this will be adequate to keep engine temps in-check. I added a relay to power the high speed fans. I then installed a thermostat with sensing bulb from Advance Auto Parts to trigger the relay. I secured the sensing bulb to the aluminum line leaving the condenser and headed to the firewall.... I am not certain this is the best place but it works for now. My thinking is while traveling down the road the air passing through the condenser will keep the refrigerant temp lower than my setpoint and the fans will not need to run, but if I slow up or at a stop the fans will turn on and cycle on high speed. Time will tell if this will work out. I made a You Tube Video showing the components and operation. I hope this helps out someone else, I have several videos related to motor home and the TDI on my channel.

https://youtu.be/_ke1PPFofww

Doug
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
weird, my AC works fine without touching the amplifier ... i just mounted the ac compressor ... i did splice a wire from the ac button to the fan relay so my fans run when the ac system is on
 

dbywaters

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Location
Virginia
TDI
98 ALH Powering a 1993 Toyota T100
weird, my AC works fine without touching the amplifier ... i just mounted the ac compressor ... i did splice a wire from the ac button to the fan relay so my fans run when the ac system is on
I wish that was the case for me... I spent the better part of a Saturday morning trying to find a solution on the web and reverse engineering the circuitry on the amplifier board, I never found a pin-out for the chip on the board..that would been helpful.

Doug
 
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