raydeee
Veteran Member
Im thinking of upgrading my pump to a 11mm but do i really need to thats the question.Check my signature for what i have and let me know thanks guys!
What Hp is a 10mm Pump good to
- Thread starter raydeee
- Start date
Curious Chris
Top Post Dawg
IIRC the 10mm pump output is limited to 70ml/stroke so for me PP764's would be fine but would max out my pump. With PP520's I am right at 150hp with my setup and I am sure I could make 180hp with the PP764's.
cog
Veteran Member
its dependant on a few other factors but even with race 520s and 10mm pump 180hp is a tall order . going on a basis that ive seen other cars dynos with a 17/22 just make 180hp with race 520s and 11mm pump but only minor breathing mods . i think if youre plannging 170hp and above i would go for the 11mm pump just so you wouldnt be straining on a 10mm so hard on those figures
When I got my car tuned last year (details in sig), the tuner told me that the pump was pretty much maxed out at that point in terms of the duration of the injection event. This is at 138bhp on european diesel.
With bigger nozzles and a larger turbo, 150-160bhp may be feasible but that's more or less it on the 10mm pump in the AHU. Unless the ALH pump can push more fuel than the AHU one, I'd submit that this is your limit on a 10mm pump.
With bigger nozzles and a larger turbo, 150-160bhp may be feasible but that's more or less it on the 10mm pump in the AHU. Unless the ALH pump can push more fuel than the AHU one, I'd submit that this is your limit on a 10mm pump.
GT TDI Golf
Well-known member
Yucca what other mods were done to achieve 250whp?
I've seen dyno's by IBW that showed about a 20whp gain (IIRC) when he swapped from 10mm to 11mm. I think his mods are 17/22, PP502 nozzles, tune, maybe a SMIC and upgraded piping. With the 10mm he was around 150 or so whp. Granted these aren't the largest nozzles but I would think it's close to around 150-160whp with a 10mm is the max. That's not taking other power adder's (nitrous, propane, etc) into considersation.
I've seen dyno's by IBW that showed about a 20whp gain (IIRC) when he swapped from 10mm to 11mm. I think his mods are 17/22, PP502 nozzles, tune, maybe a SMIC and upgraded piping. With the 10mm he was around 150 or so whp. Granted these aren't the largest nozzles but I would think it's close to around 150-160whp with a 10mm is the max. That's not taking other power adder's (nitrous, propane, etc) into considersation.
dieselfuel
Veteran Member
I believe 150 whp is easily achivable with stock 10mm pump, VNT-15 and a set of upgraded nozzles on an ALH.
Nozzles and tune are the biggest factors.
Nozzles and tune are the biggest factors.
TDIfreak
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2001
- Location
- Finland
- TDI
- Multivan AHY, Golf CFFB DSG, A6Q 4F 2.7 TDI CANC, 7 meter boat with ALH.
You mean 250 engine-hp?
10mm ALH pump is surely doing this with DSS Ultime2.
Another ALH makes 235hp with stock, unopened engine!
Just Ultime2, rather big wg turbo, IC and intake/exhaust.
Even with the stock intake manifold flap half shut it made the same hp
.
loudspl
Veteran Member
Why spend so much to go just 11mm when you could get pump changed to 12mm head?
Unless you need high rpms 12mm is much more fun and prepares for future mods
Unless you need high rpms 12mm is much more fun and prepares for future mods
Yucca
Veteran Member
sorry, 250bhp
raydeee
Veteran Member
thanks for the input you see i did 172whp in my car with the 10mm and want more so im trying to reach 200whp so im wondering what next?nozzles or pump.
Pcar993
Veteran Member
180whp with 10mm pump, vnt17, R520 injectors, PD150 intake manifold, eurojet2 FMIC, no cat, no muffler, stock size exhaust piping, Kerma/aligator tune.
raydeee
Veteran Member
i have decided to get the 11mm pump and see if that helps any
racerxtdi
Veteran Member
If you have to ask you cant afford it!!!
Its a joke!
Its a joke!
stang66007
Veteran Member
I believe the computer needs reprogramed for the 11mm pump.
What about a lift pump? I've read here that an in-tank lift pump will be needed at some point to make big hp in an ALH. Would a 10mm pump with a LP be better than a 11mm with no LP? I ask because I have an ALH with 520PP nozzles and custom Kerma tune. I haven't dyno'ed it yet, but I'm convinced that I'm putting down over 140WHP, easy. Next step will probably be a beefy clutch, 17/22, add'l SMIC, and bigger pumps, if needed.
Piranha
Veteran Member
Dont know my exact figures, but with vnt17 overbore, porting pp764s i keep a mk 5 golf r32 fsi in check, aka i keep up with him in an uphill straight, oh and the r32 is dsg.
But engine is underfuelled aboqve 3500 rpm.
Upgrading to 11 mm now.
But engine is underfuelled aboqve 3500 rpm.
Upgrading to 11 mm now.
kiwibru
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 21, 1999
- Location
- Distant island in WA. state
- TDI
- Golf 2-door, 2k Silver. Red RTDI now gone but not forgotten!
From what I have gathered the LP is a great add-on if you consistently run high rpm's and really need the extra pull of fuel. Many still run both sizes of IP's without issues because we don't push to those levels. YMMV of course...
Joe TDI
Veteran Member
You will need a lift pump once you are heavily modified.... I've seen dynos where 190whp was achieved but the entire power curve just fell off at like 3800rpm because there was no in-tank lift pump.
Under heavy load, the rotary pump needs the assistance of that lift pump or it simply won't be able to get the fuel fast enough. That same 190whp TDI would have done over 200whp had a lift pump been installed and the power didn't fall off at 3800rpm. It would have pulled much harder to 5500rpm.
That 190whp Jetta was a 99.5 and had RC5, 11mm, FMIC, W/M injection, 3" exhaust, ported head, 17/22 turbo, VR6 airbox, 3" OMI, and the rods, pistons, and cam were stock.
Under heavy load, the rotary pump needs the assistance of that lift pump or it simply won't be able to get the fuel fast enough. That same 190whp TDI would have done over 200whp had a lift pump been installed and the power didn't fall off at 3800rpm. It would have pulled much harder to 5500rpm.
That 190whp Jetta was a 99.5 and had RC5, 11mm, FMIC, W/M injection, 3" exhaust, ported head, 17/22 turbo, VR6 airbox, 3" OMI, and the rods, pistons, and cam were stock.
Last edited:
Milage King
Veteran Member
I put lift pumps on both my jetta's. The 99.5 is modded pretty well, it helps the top end out a bit, but it also should help with longevity of a expensive IP, starving and cavitating isn't a healthy thing for the IP. The stock 03 was sucking air in the summertime, after a few different attempts to fix it, i had it running well until a cold snap in winter. The fuel never jelled with PS in it, but it died from sucking air with added shrinkage of the plastic lines and o rings.
Now the stock one is bullet proof in the winter since i always run PS in the colder months. Its $200 and 3-4 hours of work, but how much is another IP? Or whats it worth to have a unhappy woman when the 03 puked at 0 degrees out.
Now the stock one is bullet proof in the winter since i always run PS in the colder months. Its $200 and 3-4 hours of work, but how much is another IP? Or whats it worth to have a unhappy woman when the 03 puked at 0 degrees out.
aNUT
Vendor , w/Business number
The 11mm is problematic over 5400 rpm from a cavitation standpoint. Kerma made 254whp on a clapped out 10mm pump...
Last edited:
diesel-dave
Veteran Member
ive seen the you tube video that's good power
Digital Corpus
Top Post Dawg
Stock 10 mm pump with OE fuel filter and stock fuel lines, i.e. regular points of restriction. In order to burn the fuel to make the power, I was happily convinced to go with a GTB1756. I am currently "out of fuel" when asking for more fuel than 25 psi of air can burn at around 4000 RPM, and though the pump doesn't fall on its face it's response instead rolls off when I push the pedal further. However, I have an air leak at the rubber-hose-to-clear-fuel-line so it's possible this is augmenting the condition.
That said, before the rebuild, on the base tune about 7 revisions ago and turbo adjustments and port matching et al, my B4 did 195 whp on a dynojet a little more than 2 years ago. I assume its doing better that that now, but have a few more important things than getting back on a dyno.
Hope this helps.
That said, before the rebuild, on the base tune about 7 revisions ago and turbo adjustments and port matching et al, my B4 did 195 whp on a dynojet a little more than 2 years ago. I assume its doing better that that now, but have a few more important things than getting back on a dyno.
Hope this helps.
Do u have smoke before boost builds up or even after? What rpm does boost kick in? I still wanna clear out is the differences between 200 hp with 10mm pump and 11mm pump. There must be downsizes and advantages to both versions.
Last edited:
Digital Corpus
Top Post Dawg
A puff of moderate smoke @ ~2100 RPM, which lasts to about 2400. Clear from 2500 on. This is on a cool night, ~15 ˚C, with my tiny stock intercooler.