<BRM> Does the ECU limit power until the car is at proper operating temperature?

absalom

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<BRM> Does the ECU limit power until the car is at proper operating temperature?

I've been through everything on this car. EGR valve (brand new), EGR cooler only 40k on it, and NO visible leaks. Cam and lifters all within last 13k miles, purrs smooth as a kitten. Zip tie mod on turbo, and pressure differentials right at 120 mbar.

When the coolant temperature indicates anything other than dead-center, the responsiveness and power of the engine is compromised. Even revving the engine, you can tell it's being held back. However, once up to temp, it rips like a banshee - tons of fun to drive!

My question: Is this normal or should I be checking for something else?
 

kdawg89

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15 Golf DSG 06 Jetta (sold)
Not normal, the only time I have noticed the computer interfering with how quickly I can rev the engine is with the transmission in neutral and coasting quickly.



May not be your issue but the zip tie mod doesn't actually fix anything, it is a band aid that makes your car much more driveable once you have worn VNT control rings. The purpose of the zip tie mod is it keeps the VNT from going all the way to the edge of its range. As a consequence the VNT will never have the full designed control range even with a perfectly executed zip tie mod.



That lack of full VNT range could cause some sluggishness under certain conditions.
 

absalom

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Trust me, I'm as eager as anyone to replace the turbo, but until I fix this low temperature driving issue, it's lower on the list. I certainly appreciate the input, I guess i just don't see how the issue would only present when the car isnt at operating temp.
 

sptsailing

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2006 Jetta Manual, stock with Panzer Plate & Franko6 modified EGR cooler & CAM
One of the many frustrating things about these cars is that VW has not made available the actual logic parameters the ECU is programmed to use to adjust the various things it controls. My guess about your experience is that your car's ECU is seeing one or more of the other components in its logic structure that is operating near the extremes of its acceptable limits, but adding low engine temperature pushes the result out of the overall total configuration the ECU can adjust to, thus the limp mode. There should be ample clues in what the VCDS reports, but I don't know exactly what to look for. A brute force method of identifying the problem might consist of analyzing and testing each component of the engine, looking for values that are not within ranges VW specifies as acceptable.
 

kdawg89

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Trust me, I'm as eager as anyone to replace the turbo, but until I fix this low temperature driving issue, it's lower on the list. I certainly appreciate the input, I guess i just don't see how the issue would only present when the car isnt at operating temp.

You want to fix your low power output issue, you know that one of the major components for providing power output is not operating normally...... Seems like a great place to start to me. Until you can rule out the problem you already know you have, which in my opinion is likely your issue anyways, you will be wasting time and money.
 

kdawg89

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When is the last time you changed the fuel filter. I had a low power condition when I bought my car because the PO hadn't change the fuel filter in way too long.


Edit: Is it a 5 spd or DSG?
 

absalom

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Wouldn't recommend it. Turbos spin at hundreds of thousands of RPM's, cheap turbo is asking for trouble. I would either go with a Borg Warner OE replacement or a Garrett PD140. To use the PD140 you will need a tune to disable to check engine light though.



https://www.idparts.com/diesel-turbochargers-c-29_117.html
Is the control ring wear issue specific to Borg Warners? I never have heard of this issue with ALHs. I really would rather have a Garrett anyways.
 

kdawg89

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I don't know about only being specific to Borg Warners, seems to plague the stock BRM turbo more than most though, the Garrett PD140 is considered to be a better more reliable turbo, plus you will have higher performance. I would hit up Malone Tuning if you go the PD140 route.



Do you have a fresh fuel filter in your car?
 

Kevinski4

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absalom

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Why not?
If you want the best bolt on BRM turbo upgrade, this is what you seek: https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/1-9-tdi-8v-pd105-bls-brm-2-0-tdi-pd140-bmm-gtb1749v-200bhp-or-220bhp-turbo-upgrade.html

Quite a bit more power potential than a PD140 turbo and spools like stock with an appropriate tune.

That said, I doubt the turbo is your problem. Log your IAT, Coolant temp, fuel temp, whatever else you can find and see if anything looks wonky.
Great input! I will certainly take your advice. I agree, while my turbo needs replacing, it doesn't make sense that this issue is ONLY present when the car isn't fully warmed up.

As much as I'd love a high-dollar turbo, it's just never going to get the wife approval - given that I'm also a student/father. I think found the perfect budget solution (to my sloppy turbo).
 
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crazyrunner33

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NC
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'10 Golf(bought back)
A used OEM turbo is a safer bet than a Chinese turbo. The one above looks like the PD140. The other turbo you posted had numbers that cross referenced as the PD140. The PD140 turbo is proven on these cars. The question is whether or not the used one is in decent condition. Only you can decide if the risk is worth it.
 
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