Rear brake pad and rotor replacement

cosmic

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2000
Location
KY, USA
TDI
Jetta, 2001, Silver Arrow
Hello all...

I am going to be replacing my rear pads and rotors tonight! I got my parts in from impex (Balo Rotors ($40/pair) and Mintex pads) and have heard the awful grinding for too long. (about a week) I also have a Metalnerd brake reset tool to windback the pistons

I have not really looked into this job, but plan on getting 'on the job training' on this one, as well as consulting the Bentley. I was wondering if there are any tips that can be offered from those out there who have done this job. Specifically, I was wondering if the calipers come off to allow removal of the rotor?

Any tips on the job would be appreciated. I plan on taking pics of the job and doing a writeup similar to my Brake Fluid Change writeup I will post it in this thread.
 
S

sooner

Guest
At the same time you may ask what size the locking nut to hold the rotor on .
Yes I am asking.
 

concours

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2001
Location
Kensington, NH
TDI
2006.6 Jetta GLS 5 speed 125,000 miles, 2001.5 Jetta GLS 5-speed, Tornado Red, Monsoon w/CD changer
The rotor is held on with a single M6 philips head screw. Use a correct size JASO #3 screwdriver to prevent rounding out the screw. If you do, a center punch can be used to back it out. NeverSeez was applied the first time I took the wheels off. The nut in the middle secures the wheel bearings and hub. It doesn't need to come off. An 8mm hex bit or allen wrench is required to remove the caliper bracket from the axle. Good luck
 

cosmic

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2000
Location
KY, USA
TDI
Jetta, 2001, Silver Arrow
OK, I did the brake job last night, and it seems that everything turned out well. I did not take as many pictures as I hoped. I was concerned about getting this job done, and hence did it in exceedingly crowded quarters in the garage. This being in case I had to bail mid-job and consult some TDIClub advice. I would just close the door and leave the Jetta there. Fortunately that was not the case, but as a result, I have fewer pics than I hoped. That said onto the task...

This job is actually pretty easy. I spent about 2 hours doing the first side, and 30 minutes on the second. This was after getting the wheels off and the rear up on jackstands. I was initially hesitant, and it took me some time of staring at things, reading the bentleys and what not to get going. I did the first side pretty slow obviously, and the next side was easy after doing it once. Hopefully some of the detail here will make it easier on those who may do it in the future.

Here are the tools needed:

Left to Right, Top to bottom, tools are:
  1. Screwdriver - I used a flat head to do some caliper cleaning (scraping) A Phillips is needed to remove the retaining screw on the rotor.
  2. Wire Brush - Used to clean the brake pad mounts, caliper piston head, caliper arms, and all the other dust/gunk laden things.
  3. Piston Windback Tool - Absolutely essential, this is a metalnerd model. The large wrench below it works with it to hold the plate in place while turning and depressing the piston.
  4. 15mm open ended wrench - This is used to hold the "caliper mount nut" (my words) while removing the caliper mount bolts.
  5. 8mm Allen Drive - Used to loosen the caliper carrier bolts to allow removal and insertion of the rotors.
  6. 13mm socket - Used on the Caliper bolts to remove the caliper from the carrier. (must hold the nut with 15mm while doing this)
  7. 17mm Socket - Used to remove wheel lugs
  8. Extension - needed to get the 13mm socket on the caliper bolt.
  9. Socket wrench
  10. Torque wrench - to torque the carrier allen bolts, caliper bolts and the lugs. 48,26,85 ftlbs respectively (from memory - double check!)
  11. Pliers - to actuate the emergency brake to allow cable removal.
OK, onto the work. I got into the job a bit before I remembered to take pics! Here we have two angles of the left rear brake assembly. The emergency brake cable has already been detached from the actuator.


So, The first thing you do is disconnect that brake cable. To do this, first you remove the retaining clip on the cable. (Not in any pics) Then you actuate the brake with your pliers, and work the cable out of the hold. You can then fish the cable out of the holder to free it from the caliper.

Next comes disconnecting the caliper, show in the following pic:

This carrier nut (closest to you) is 15mm and the bolt is 13mm. Hold the nut still while loosening the bolt. Remove the bolt. Repeat this on the bottom bolt as well.

When that is done, the caliper can come free from the carrier. It still is wrapped around the pads and rotor, so it takes some wrangling. Be aware of the brake line attatched to the caliper. You DO NOT want to stress this. There is enough cable to allow play, but be wary of creasing it, or dropping the caliper once free.

Once the caliper is out of the way (you can tie it up out of the way), you can remove the old pads. (No pic,sorry) They pull out towards the back of the car, or out to the side. The are a tight fit, so take your time.

Once the pads are out, you need to remove the rotor. To do this, you will have to remove the retaining screw in the rotor. (same alignment as lugs) It is a phillips head. Then, you need to loosen the carrier to allow the rotor to come out over the hub. You only need to loosen it. This next pic shows me loosening the carrier bolts with an 8mm hex (allen) head socket. EDIT: It's been determined that loosening the carrier is not needed to get the rotor out.

Repeat this on the other bolt, just loosening a bit. once this is done, and the retaining screw removed, you should be able to get the rotor out from the carrier. EDIT: Once again, It's been determined that loosening the carrier is not needed to get the rotor out.

At this point you will want to do some cleaning. Clean the pad mounting surfaces. There is an metal shim that on that surface that is a bit delicate so take your time. clean the caliper mating surfaces (where the caliper will grab the pads) so that they are clean and smooth. You may want to wear a respirator at this point, as brake dust is nasty stuff.

To replace the rotors and pads, you essentially go in reverse order. You do have to have to windback the caliper piston. So...

Put the new rotor in, installing and tightening the retaining screw. (Unknown torque)

Tighten and torque the carrier hex head bolts.

Install the new pads. Press them flush against the rotor, and ensure they are in all the way. There are little stop tabs on the pad housing.

Windback the piston on the caliper. Before you do this, you will want to check your fluid level under the hood. Winding back the piston drives fluid back into the cylinder, and if yours is capped and full, that could lead to problems. I just popped the cap on mine, so there would be room. When I was done, I checked the level, which was above max. I used a baster to suck some out. The windback tool takes some figuring to get it going, but works easily. Metalnerd's tool worked great and is super beefy. Others are available.

Once the piston is wound back, you can install the caliper over the new pads. Mine barely fit, so make sure you wind it all the way back. Be wary of the carrier nuts, which are on flexible sleeves. They have to be pressed in a bit to allow the caliper to go over them.

Install the Caliper bolts (13mm) holding the carrier nuts (15mm)still. Torque to spec.

Reinstall and attach the emergency brake cable.

Reinstall the retaining clip for the cable.

OK that side is done. Now do the other side of the car. (Pad installation, and/or rotor installation, must be done on a per axle basis.)

Once both sides are done, check your fluid level and adjust as needed, recapping the resevoir.

Test drive.

When I first started up, the pedal sank to the floor. Only once though. I suspect this is the piston readjusting to the new pads. From there everything was fine. My pads came with a warning saying no hard braking for 200 miles. Your mileage may vary.

I will report in in a while to let you know how they are doing.

You migh also be interested in my fluid change post available here.
 
Last edited:

MrMetal

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2002
Location
Seattle, WA
TDI
None
Awesome! Thanks for the great writeup! I will have to do this at some point soon, I think. I still might want to have a pro overlooking my shoulder, but this will help in any case
 

cosmic

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2000
Location
KY, USA
TDI
Jetta, 2001, Silver Arrow
Well, after a week in them, everything seems to be running fine. No weird noises, or problems. I have yet to incur an emergency braking situation, but I feel confident everything will be fine. :)
 

big d

Active member
Joined
Apr 14, 2002
Location
Savannah, GA
TDI
1982 Rabbit diesel Pickup, 1994 Peugeot 605 TD, 2000 VW Jetta GLS tdi
Thanks for your post. I have 80K Miles on the original brakes on my TDI and ask my local deal how much to do the brakes. He said ... with a straight face 325 dollars US. This prompted me to buy the parts and get the caliper tool from metalnerd (which was prompt and courtious). I saw you post and am waiting for the pads and rotors. Thanks for the detailed description! The rotors, pads, and brake tool were under 100 dollars. (They wanted to resurface the rotors) Am I missing something that they do to get this price?
 

banzai

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2000
Location
East Overshoe, ME
TDI
NB TDI
I painted my calipers Mad Phat Bloo- looks cool actually!
Needed an impact driver to remove one of the philips head screws (salty land)

New rotors are a must- they are also quite cheap (I paid $25 for mine!)

I also had a can of semigloss black rustoleum- there were a couple ugly spots already on suspension- painted everything!
 

NYTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2001
Location
Mid - Hudson
TDI
1999.5 Golf TDI AUTOMATIC trans. GLS w/PLX package silver/black cloth
Nice pics. & writeup, a few comments on different ways to do it:

I never had to loosen the carrier to replace rotors.

You don't have to disconnect the parking brake cable - yes I know Bentley says you do but you don't, no reason to do it.

I load the pads into the caliper first then install the loaded caliper into the carrier/over the rotor. I do it this way because I find that it allows me to better deal with pad backside anti-squeal measures (shims if so equipped, anti-squeal "goo" if you use it, I just use a good thick coat of high temp brake grease).
 

Sharam

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2000
Location
Montreal, Que.
Hi Cosmic,

I wanted to thank you for your excellent post and pictures. I just changed the rear brakes on my Jetta TDI 2000 last weekend and your post helped a lot. The only comment/question I had is that I did not touch the carrier bolts at all and was able to get the rotor off (very carefully of course so that I won't scratch it). Could it be because of worn out rotors?? (I hope not!).

BTW, at the beginning I was using this universal "cube" tool to rewind the cylinder and it was turning OK but was not retracting regardless of the amount of pressure I applied to it (that's when I started looking into rear brake stuff on TDI forums and saw this posting). I tried several places for a piston windback tool and to my surprise the Canadian Tire store close to my house had it and would loan it out for three days free of charge!!!. As you mentioned this tool was absolutly essential.

So far, after driving for 300 KM, so good.
 

VW Petrolero

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2002
Location
Vancouver.BC
TDI
2018 Golf SW 1.8 TSI
Cosmic very good post .But I'll second NYTDI & SHARAM .You don't have to remove the carrier bolts or the emergency brake cable.The rotor will slide out with the carrier bolts in place.
Just my 2 cents to help the Club members in this rear brake replacement task.
Tony
 

cosmic

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2000
Location
KY, USA
TDI
Jetta, 2001, Silver Arrow
Thanks for the comments.


I thought you could sneak it by as well. I got the first old rotor off without loosening but could not get the new one on. Perhaps if I messed with it a bit longer I would have been able to get it in there. I might have been too cautious with regard to scraping it or whatnot. But I know that I have not been cautious enough in the past and regretted it. That, and loosening the carrier only took a few minutes. But as you all said, it seems either way gets the job done.
 

Vanman

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
Anaheim, CA USA
Having read this very informative thread after starting my rear brake pad replacement adventure(2001 NB), I'm in a little trouble. Major problem - caliper piston won't compress. I have a tool with a small handle which I've already bent attempting to wind back the piston -

The lid on the fluid reservoir is open - loose - I've cracked the bleeder valve to allow fluid to escape so it wouldn't be forced back through the abs on advice from the parts salesman where I bought pads. Anyway, advice, please? There is a grease zerk(sp?) with a rubber cap on it - is that what it appears to be? Should I put grease into it?

It looked so simple, particularly after I'd installed the new .205 injectors, but I'm stumped now.
 

zanzabar

Vendor
Joined
Oct 18, 2002
Location
Petaluma, CA
TDI
2004 Jetta BEW 5spd (dual duty track car and daily driver beater)
Major problem - caliper piston won't compress. I have a tool with a small handle which I've already bent attempting to wind back the piston -
Vanman, take a look at item 3a in the picture above. Do you have this tool? The piston HAS to be turned as it is pressed back into the caliper. It won't go in unless you have this special tool or something very similar.

Before you ask any more questions, do some searches on "rear brake tool" or "rear brake pads" and it'll all be explained for you.
 

zanzabar

Vendor
Joined
Oct 18, 2002
Location
Petaluma, CA
TDI
2004 Jetta BEW 5spd (dual duty track car and daily driver beater)
Anyway, advice, please? There is a grease zerk(sp?) with a rubber cap on it - is that what it appears to be? Should I put grease into it?
Oops, almost missed this part. This grease zerk with a rubber cap on it...I think you're talking about the bleeder valve? But you said you cracked the bleeder valve open.
Not sure what you mean, but there is no zerk to grease, you could put caliper grease (special high temp stuff) on the guides, and definately put brake quiet on the back of the new pads to avoid squealing. I wish I could be more help, but you're probably figuring it out.
 

dld

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Mar 31, 2003
Location
Brandon, Manitoba,Canada
TDI
05 Passat Wagon, Blue Graphite, Anthracite leather, sunroof and 99 New Beetle, Purple
Thanks, Cosmic, for the great post! I replaced the rear brakes on my wife's New Beetle TDI on Thursday and used your excellent desription and photos. Job went well. I was suprised to see the pads worn to the metal in only 60, 000 km, but I guess that is not too unusual from reading other posts on this forum.

Doug

PS: This is my first post here, and have to say that this is a super source of information for TDI owners. Thanks Fred and everyone who contributes.

Green 97 Passat TDI and Purple 99 New Beetle TDI
 

wanders

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2003
Location
Shennandoah Valley, VA
TDI
'01 Jetta GLS- Baltic Green
Thank You Cosmic!!!

Your post got me through rear brake replacement today without a hitch.

Couple of notes: Advance Auto Parts has a caliper tool available for loan. Worked perfectly.

Also, I didn't find any reason to disconnect the parking brake cables.

Job took about 2 1/2 hours start to finish.
 

edsiajb

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2001
Location
Birmingham, Alabama
TDI
2012 Passat TDI SE
I too did my first rear brake job today. My 01 Jetta TDI was "metal to metal" (I hate that scrubbing sound) at 45,000 miles. I got the new rotors ($40. per pair!) and the mintex pads from vwparts.com . Total time for job was under two hours. Thanks much to Cosmic (your photos are much better than the drawings in the Bentley manual). Also thanks to Metalnerd (Chuck) and his wife the the prompt shipment of the brake reset tool. I had fun doing this job and got much satisfaction from doing it myself. That is so much better than taking it somewhere and then wondering if they did it right! This was a very straightforward job that just about anyone with some mechanical ability could perform. Thanks again to all!
 

GeWilli

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 6, 1999
Location
lost to new england
TDI
none in the fleet (99.5 Golf RIP, 96 B4V sold)
I didn't need to loosen the carrier - minor point but still not needed.

I removed the 'springs' to clean all surfaces and give them a thin coating of sil-glyde . . .

and bleed before and a tiny bit afterwards but Some theorists say do NOT bleed DURING the piston wind back. I did not and had a very easy time using the Metalnerd brake wind back tool
 

MOGolf

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 27, 2001
Location
underneath something
TDI
2001 Golf GLS TDI Reflex silver, rough road suspension and steel skid plate, 2004 Passat Variant, Candy White, rough road suspension and geared balanced shaft module, and much, much more. 2016 LR RR HSE TD6, 2019 Jaguar I-PACE
Cosmic posted pictures hosted at a Kentucky University site instead of the TDICLUB picture server. They appear to be unavailable now.
 
Joined
May 7, 2003
Location
East Coast, U.S.
TDI
2000 GOLF
Just if anyone cares, my rear pads lasted 110k miles
The front...there still OEM, car has 121k miles, 1\4" of pad left, calipers are working, car still stops like it did when it was new. VW parts is where its at on the brakes anyway. No one can believe it. Even VW is suprised. Yes, all highway miles.
 

Metalnerd

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Joined
Nov 14, 2000
Location
Greensburg, PA, USA
TDI
96 Passat TDI Storm Grey
Some people like to open the bleeder valve and purge the old fluid during windback. I have found that windback tools work better without opening the bleeder valve. The extra backpressure helps to keep the tool engaged. Bleed them after all reassembly and give the neighbor kid something to do: Press, hold, release, again,.......
 

cosmic

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2000
Location
KY, USA
TDI
Jetta, 2001, Silver Arrow
[ QUOTE ]
Bill Kriese said:
Does anyone know what happened to the pictures in this post?

[/ QUOTE ]

The resource that those pics are on had a drive go south. Information is still intact, but we are waiting on a replacement drive. They should be back up soon. /images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

Bill Kriese

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Joined
Aug 9, 1999
Location
Milwaukee,Wi,USA
TDI
Jetta,2000,White
Good to see the pictures back. This post assisted me in the change of my pads and rotors. Maybe it should go into the faq area as a reference for others.
 

AJonathan

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2001
Location
Fort Worth, TX
TDI
2015 Passat SEL TDI sedan. Previously: 2012 Jetta TDI sedan, 2004 Passat GLS TDI Wagon, 2001 Jetta TDI
Is it just me, or have the photos disappeared again?
 
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