Time to do the dreaded Rear Axle beam bushings

Schoust

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2013
Location
Litchfield County
TDI
00 Jetta Alh 5spd
Hey Guys
Well I dreaded this day but the time has come to tackle this bogus job. Yes I have struggled through this once already on a 99.5 this time I want to use the correct tool but can't afford it at this time.
I thought I would through it out there and see if anyone had the tool that they would care to rent. Also anyone have any new tricks that may make things easier on the ground?? Pm me if you want to rent the tool out...
Thanks
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
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2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
The "tool" really isn't a big deal. Some threaded rod, nuits, washers and some wood will accomplish the same thing. I had the "tool," but it was for stock bushings and I ended up smashing one of my Cupra R bushings: learned that I had to have a deeper cup; used an old wheel bearing cup (which would also needed if one were to utilize a make-shift tool.

I bought an actual "tool" because I had multiple MKIVs: I've done two rear axle bushing jobs- the ones in the 2003 wagon when a LOT better because the originals were a plastic outer housing, which don't end up nearly welding themselves inside the axle.

The new bushings, once you clean out the axle beam real well and lube the bushings with soapy water (or some cable lube [stuff electricians use to pull electrical cable]), will pull in pretty easily.

You've got a 2000. Removal of the old bushings is about 90% of the work.
 

benIV

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Oct 25, 2009
Location
Southeast NC
TDI
2003 PG 5m Jetta GL Sedan, 2003 RS 5m Jetta GLS Wagon (Golf Variant)
is this a job that you do when needed or is this something you’re supposed to do every so often no matter what?
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
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Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
is this a job that you do when needed or is this something you’re supposed to do every so often no matter what?
It's a job you do when you're thinking you've done something bad and need punished:D

Clunking that's not related to shocks will tend to be worn bushings. Many times you can visually see whether the bushings are ready for a refresh.

The early model years had bushings with metal outer casings. The metal ones really are tough to remove. Later models had plastic outer casings and are a lot easier. ANY of them, though, require cutting out the inner rubber in order to separate the inner rubber from the casing; this is necessary in order to deform the casing to get it free of the axle housing. It's a messy operation; installation is a piece of cake in comparison to extraction.
 

benIV

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Oct 25, 2009
Location
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2003 PG 5m Jetta GL Sedan, 2003 RS 5m Jetta GLS Wagon (Golf Variant)
Thank you for the info and advice. !!
 

Seatman

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Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
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2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
I bought a very cheap tool off ebay over here in the UK, worked perfect. Unbolt the axle bolts then the plates the axle bolts too, get plenty of room without disconnecting any brake pipes etc.

Old bushes come out easy enough, just bang something up the side of the bush to break the casing and they'll pop out with a bit of a hammer.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
Old bushes come out easy enough, just bang something up the side of the bush to break the casing and they'll pop out with a bit of a hammer.
For other than 2000 years perhaps.

I found that I only needed to unbolt the bracket on the left side (I unclipped the brake line clip, though not sure if it's necessary). Only works if you first do the left side first!. On one side, the right?, I end up using a sawzall to cut the bolt as there's not enough room to remove it (install in the other direction).
 

Seatman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
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2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
For other than 2000 years perhaps.

I found that I only needed to unbolt the bracket on the left side (I unclipped the brake line clip, though not sure if it's necessary). Only works if you first do the left side first!. On one side, the right?, I end up using a sawzall to cut the bolt as there's not enough room to remove it (install in the other direction).

Yeh if you lower the whole bracket there's room to pull the bolt then you can simply put it back the other way round.

Not sure on the 2000 bit, can't say I've noticed any difference from our early mk4's to my latest, 1998 to 2005.

But brackets removed gives plenty room and you can remove the bolt so it's a win lol
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
I just went through this operation a couple weeks ago, installing the Cupra R bushings as upgrades.

I have a 2002 Golf and my bolts came out without sawzalling them. I opted to drop the beam out of the car and do it off the ground. Glad I did.

I had to use a sawzall to break the old bushing housing free of the beam. Definitely 90% of the work.

Installation was with the ebay tool with a HD ball joint press cup to receive the other end, worked like a charm. I used the ebay tool until it bottomed on the provided cup then switched to the ball joint press cup (deeper).

Installing it back in was easy with 2 sets of hands to line it up. Bled the brakes and torqued it down.

With a helper we did the rear beam and coilovers all in one day. I would give a full day though just to do the axle beam if you're solo. I had it out of the car by myself and the new bushings pressed in in aroun 2.5 hours, ready to install back into the car when the help got there.
 

Seatman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
TDI
2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
I just went through this operation a couple weeks ago, installing the Cupra R bushings as upgrades.

I have a 2002 Golf and my bolts came out without sawzalling them. I opted to drop the beam out of the car and do it off the ground. Glad I did.

I had to use a sawzall to break the old bushing housing free of the beam. Definitely 90% of the work.

Installation was with the ebay tool with a HD ball joint press cup to receive the other end, worked like a charm. I used the ebay tool until it bottomed on the provided cup then switched to the ball joint press cup (deeper).

Installing it back in was easy with 2 sets of hands to line it up. Bled the brakes and torqued it down.

With a helper we did the rear beam and coilovers all in one day. I would give a full day though just to do the axle beam if you're solo. I had it out of the car by myself and the new bushings pressed in in aroun 2.5 hours, ready to install back into the car when the help got there.
You're making it sound hard lol

If you just remove the plates and break the plastic casing of the old bushes they just hammer out, then use the tool to press the new ones back in and refit. No need to disconnect the brakes or anything.

I did my first on the ground but the rear arb was broken so I was replacing the whole axle.

But yeh, if you do it again it's only a couple of hours work taking your time.
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
You're making it sound hard lol

If you just remove the plates and break the plastic casing of the old bushes they just hammer out, then use the tool to press the new ones back in and refit. No need to disconnect the brakes or anything.

I did my first on the ground but the rear arb was broken so I was replacing the whole axle.

But yeh, if you do it again it's only a couple of hours work taking your time.
That wasn't happening with mine. I had metal casings. I had to notch them with a sawzall to relieve the bushing race enough to punch it out.

I disconnected the brake lines for a couple reasons. The car is low to the ground. I wanted all the angles I needed without laying on the concrete. It was easy when it was out t from under the car. No bending of tabs, lines, anything. Took me all of 5 minutes to disconnect. Honestly had the rear beam out of the car in an hour solo.

Also, I was due for a brake bleed.

Im all for working smarter, not harder. Leaving the axle in, IMO after doing it off the car, would be much more challenging.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
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Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
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2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
So, 2002 had the metal outer casings too, ugh. I've only done two sets, and the 2003 wagon had the plastic ones.

When I did the second R&R it was a lot easier. I also, finally, had a garage to work in. I don't think having the axle in-car cost me any time. The work of cutting the rubber is the biggest part. Yes, if you have metal cased bushings then it's a bit tougher as you'll be swinging a small sledge in a tight space (but, I did it on my car, outside, on uneven, hard ground and I did it with axle in-car because I had an injury that precluded me from dealing with weight).

Anyway, not that I'm expecting it, if I have to do it again on either of the cars that I've done and installed the plastic cased bushings in I know it will be a LOT easier owing to the newer bushing style.

An earlier bushing model, from what I've heard, was hydraulic. Maybe even worse to remove?
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
An earlier bushing model, from what I've heard, was hydraulic. Maybe even worse to remove?
Yup. That would be messy.
I really didn't think the job overall was bad. But getting the front passenger strut out... Yeah I used the sawzall to get that coil out. But they were trashed
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
You're making it sound hard lol

If you just remove the plates and break the plastic casing of the old bushes they just hammer out, then use the tool to press the new ones back in and refit. No need to disconnect the brakes or anything.

I did my first on the ground but the rear arb was broken so I was replacing the whole axle.

But yeh, if you do it again it's only a couple of hours work taking your time.

That has never been my experience. I always have had to cut/air hammer/chisel/saw metal outer sleeves apart. Remember, YOUR car was assembled at a different plant than ours. It may be yours had a different bushing supplier, or only the wagons sold here (which were made in Germany) used something different. Depending on how badly rusted in place they are, I can spend anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour per side with them. Pushing the new ones in is easy (with the tool). But getting the old ones out.... :eek:
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
Depending on how badly rusted in place they are, I can spend anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour per side with them. Pushing the new ones in is easy (with the tool). But getting the old ones out.... :eek:
Mine were pretty much welded in there with rust. I took about the same amount of time getting mine out, but the majority of it was trying to be careful not to chew the bushing sleeve on the axle beam up with the sawzall.
 

Schoust

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2013
Location
Litchfield County
TDI
00 Jetta Alh 5spd
I have to laugh! My experience on my sons 99.5 was exactly as Oilhammer has described. I was a PITA. Then I struggled getting the new in because of scoring of the metal when I removed the old. Does anyone know of a cheap tool or perhaps an easy way to make my own so it will be easy to get the new in?
I would prefer that route.
Thanks
 

KrashDH

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Washington
TDI
2002 Golf
I have to laugh! My experience on my sons 99.5 was exactly as Oilhammer has described. I was a PITA. Then I struggled getting the new in because of scoring of the metal when I removed the old. Does anyone know of a cheap tool or perhaps an easy way to make my own so it will be easy to get the new in?
I would prefer that route.
Thanks
Are you putting in OEM or the Cupra R bushings?
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
I have to laugh! My experience on my sons 99.5 was exactly as Oilhammer has described. I was a PITA. Then I struggled getting the new in because of scoring of the metal when I removed the old. Does anyone know of a cheap tool or perhaps an easy way to make my own so it will be easy to get the new in?
I would prefer that route.
Thanks
Lots already documented on this. All-thread rod, nuts, washers and some wood. And then likely, especially with Cupra R bushings you'll need a cup on the receiving side: I have and use a front wheel bearing outer race. The installation tool, however, isn't all that much if I recollect correctly (but, you'd still need a deep cup of some sorts if you do Cupra R bushings).
 

Seatman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
TDI
2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
That has never been my experience. I always have had to cut/air hammer/chisel/saw metal outer sleeves apart. Remember, YOUR car was assembled at a different plant than ours. It may be yours had a different bushing supplier, or only the wagons sold here (which were made in Germany) used something different. Depending on how badly rusted in place they are, I can spend anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour per side with them. Pushing the new ones in is easy (with the tool). But getting the old ones out.... :eek:

All the ones I've done have been plastic casing from 99 to 2005, I've never come across a metal casing in a mk4 yet that's standard.

That is a strange alteration to make just for a different market, I bet they're cheaper or some crap like that.
 

Schoust

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2013
Location
Litchfield County
TDI
00 Jetta Alh 5spd
Well the moral of this story is before assuming your issue is what you think it may be inspect it thoroughly. Unfortunately I was super busy last week and the place I buy most of my auto parts from is far away from my home. That being the case I purchased the new bushing and borrowed the real deal tool from a buddy who had it. I jacked the car up and inspected the bushing and it was perfect? What gives here lol? I looked it over and used a long bar to load it up and could not duplicate the noise so I removed the lower shock bolt to get a better look and From what I could tell the spring appeared to have turned in the purch? Is this possible? I have never changed anything back there except the pads. How could the spring rotate? Anyway I turned the spring to where it seemed to sit properly and the noise is gone. Quite confused as to how this could have happened but pleasantly surprised that I didn't have to do this PITA job.
Thanks for the advice!
 

Nevada_TDI

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Joined
Aug 17, 2008
Location
Reno, sort of...
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2001 Jetta TDI
It is well documented if the springs are not sitting "perfect" on the seats they will make noise. As far as the springs rotating on their own, that is a good question. Did you happen to hit a pot-hole recently or come off the edge of a curb? I do wonder what shape the shock(s) are in... is the upper bearing 100% solid, and is the shock smooth in all it's travel?
 

OlyTDI

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Joined
Dec 18, 2007
Location
Olympia, WA
TDI
'04 Golf
Lots already documented on this. All-thread rod, nuts, washers and some wood. And then likely, especially with Cupra R bushings you'll need a cup on the receiving side: I have and use a front wheel bearing outer race. The installation tool, however, isn't all that much if I recollect correctly (but, you'd still need a deep cup of some sorts if you do Cupra R bushings).
Can you elaborate on the "cup" needed for the Cupra R bushings? Does the bushing need to seat past the end of the receiving piece? If so, what does this cup seat against when squeezing the bushing in?

Thanks!
 

Seatman

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
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2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
Can you elaborate on the "cup" needed for the Cupra R bushings? Does the bushing need to seat past the end of the receiving piece? If so, what does this cup seat against when squeezing the bushing in?

Thanks!

The proper tool is cupped, the end of the bush sticks out past the hole anyway but sometimes a poly bush can require that little extra push to get it fully home.

I've just replaced mine with poly though and the proper tool worked perfect.
 

Seatman

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Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
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2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
Ha, you've never experienced a Westmoreland Rabbit, have you? :p

A what now?

I've done a mk3 rear beam bushes with a rottweiller sitting on my head, does that count for anything? :D

Helping a friend with the car on the deck and his bloody great dog came over and sat on my head lol
 

UhOh

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Dec 24, 2014
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PNW
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2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
Clearly folks don't know how to proceed in such operations! No one has mentioned being sure to have a dogbone on hand!:D
 

Seatman

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Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Location
Scotland
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2014 Skoda rapid elegance 1.6 cr tdi
Front end or back end of said dog? :)
The smelly end! :D


No one did urethane bushings? They're so easy to install!
It's not the install they have trouble with, it's removing the old ones. Over here in the UK all the ones I've dealt with have had a plastic sheath you just break to get them out but they're on about a metal sheath.

I'm sure it's nothing the correct size hammer couldn't sort though lol
 
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