You do not need wiring from Kufatec. You need 5 lousy wires. Follow the steps from the OP; here are my notes.
I went to Ace and bought #14 red and black stranded thin wall chemical resistant wire. You'll need 15 feet at $.23/ft each color. I created an overlay harness by wrapping the wires together with friction tape, and capped the friction tape with electric insulating tape on each end.
I wanted to keep the factory look and rebuilt the right side wire harness that services the side marker, washer pump, sensor, headlight, etc. It had gotten gooped up with age and oil spray from the intake elbow splitting earlier anyway.
It was easy to do, just a little time consuming. NB: The plastic wire guide that goes under the tank will fit. It has to shift forward a few inches, so you just clip it to the body, and disregard the mounting stud. You can optionally get the one that would fit on the mounting stud.
The hard part is getting the wire in the plenum. I found a steel cable from a shredded tire resting on my condenser, and used it to fish through the boot on the right side. It wasn't easy, and I had to disconnect the harness from its mount in order to straighten it enough for the steel cable to find its way through. After a few tries, I was able to get through, and with some cable pulling lubricant, the rest was easy. When pulling the wire, I pulled the short end through, that is the wire was all on the cowl side, and pulled through to the engine room, then I rebuilt the rest of the harness. The left side of the plenum was easy since there's space under the protective wire channel cover.
I did not pass the wire through the protective cover under the wipers. I passed it through the wire channel, and bundled it with the harness going through the firewall, ala coolant migration overlay. My rationale was that the area was nasty, still a little moist, and I didn't have a shop vac handy to clean it out. I didn't want to break a waterproof seal for two lousy wires, and I would have wanted to replace the blind cover with a real wire sealing grommet. Additionally, the protective cover houses connectors, so it didn't seem like the factory way to route those particular wires. The firewall route was already poked, is easy to seal, and isn't exposed to as much water if at all compared to the wire box above.
You don't have to do it this way, but I used flat contacts available at the dealership whenever possible to terminate the wires. I used them in the pump connector, and in the fuse box. They were not available for the relay carrier connections, but you can use them for the SRA/56 signal from the light switch to the carrier. NB: For some reason, the OP split the lock entirely from the carrier. All you have to do is spread the long sides slightly with your fingers, and slide the block over to the right. The movement is very small, but you can see the stairstep teeth on the side and recognise the locked and unlocked position. Once the terminals are in, it just slides back. The other wires will not fall out as they are still secured with their barbs.
The fuse box lock is just as easy. Remove the paneling and noise insulation from the steering column area and free the fuse panel from the mount. Use a screwdriver to pry the lock down about 1/4". Insert the contacts in position 33, and close up the box. 33 is on the right side, attached to the battery. Use a ring connector for #14 wire and a 1/4" post. With the battery disconnected, attach the ring to the 30 connection on the relay panel. Use the one with the two thinner wires, not the big thick one. This is based on the location given in the Bentley manual.
I ran the power connections from the fuse box along the left side of the CCM, and all wires were wrapped with friction tape, and secured with teardrops (for service loops) to the original wire harness.
Once everything is bundled up, attach fuse 33 (20A) and attach the battery. Turn on the lights, and spray them with oodles of water. It does deplete the liquid supply fast, at least through a snowstorm, but they work beautifully. After getting a good coating in salt and grime, I stopped to eat somewhere. The lights were nice and clean, and it was visible because the cutoff pattern was still sharp. I have the Golf switch from my MFA installation, so I can push forward to get only the windshield wet, albeit with a slightly weakened spray.
You will need two yellow-orange wire seals for 2.5mm wire where the pump connector is.
You might be wondering why I used 15 feet of black wire instead of finding a ground somewhere near the pump. I attached the ground to the post left of the steering column in order to follow the factory wiring diagram as much as possible. The extra few feet of red wire is for the fuse box, and having too much is better than not having enough, especially for how cheap it is.
