Automatic Transmission Fluid Change procedure

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Location
Boise, Idaho
TDI
2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
Here is the step by step on how to change the ATF fluid in the TDI 4 speed 01M Automatic transmission. For the parts lists I included cropped picture links to the ETKA pages relative to the 01M transmission.

Here are two links to the complete Automatic fluid change .pdf format, Both are the same file and suitable for printing complete with the pictures, First link and both .pdf files are compliments of Gewilli

LINK 1
http://www.cst.cmich.edu/users/willi1gl/VW/autoFluidchange.pdf

LINK 2
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/01M%204%20Speed%20Automatic%20Fluid%20change%20Procedure.pdf

NOTE:
-This procedure does not cover the replacement of the differential fluid which is independent of the ATF and is a different type of fluid. Please refer to the Bentley manual for the simple instructions on changing and checking this fluid.

-This job relies on ABSOLUTE cleanliness. Some of the pictures do not reflect the cleaning that took place when reinstalling the parts due to reuse of certain picture frames. Above all make sure that no dirt is allowed to get into the transmission housing. The housing and valve controls contain extremely close tolerance electronically controlled servo valves similar to those found inside the TDI injection pump.

Parts needed:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/1ATa.jpg

(1) 01M 325 429 "Oil Strainer"Fig 1
(1) 01M 325 443 "gasket" Fig 2

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/1ATb.jpg

(1) 096 321 370 "gasket" Fig 16

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/1ATc.jpg

(1) N 013 811 5 "sealing washer" Fig 21
(1) 01M 321 435 B "cap" Fig 23
(1) 01M 321 432 A "plug" Fig 24 optional

Fluid needed per the Bentley Manual:
"VW ATF is obtainable as a spare part.

-Container size 1.0 ltr. (1.0567 qt) - Part No. G 052 162 A2"

Note: I found that 4 liters were needed when replacing the filter as outlined in the following procedure.

Fluid and filter change Procedure:

First remove the plastic side liner that covers the driver side of the transmission. There are two washer retainers that can easily be removed turning them off with a flat screwdriver.

Front flat washer
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT1.JPG

Rear flat washer
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT2.JPG

Next remove the guard on the transmission pan. This requires removing 4 bolts, (2) on the engine side, (2) on the outer most drivers side of the transmission.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT3.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT4.JPG

Using an Allen socket remove the allen cap on the transmission pan, not fluid will drain out once loosened so be ready to catch about 2 liters of fluid.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT5a.jpg

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT5.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT6.JPG

With the initial amount of fluid drained from the transmission, you will need to remove the plastic baffle. This is a red 2 inch long insert that retains a majority of the fluid.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT8a.jpg

This insert is also what is used to determine whether or not you have the correct amount of fluid in the ATF pan when refilling. This will be discussed later in the procedure. For now insert your allen and remove it being careful not to strip it out since its only plastic. Use caution because the fluid may still be hot and once the baffle is removed fluid will rush out the hole.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT7.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9a.JPG

Now with the fluid drained reinstall the plastic insert and the allen cap loosely, the reason is you will need to remove it later to determine proper fill level.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT8.JPG

With the fluid drained now your going to remove the four bolts that hold the pan to the bottom of the transmission.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9c.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9d.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9e.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9f.JPG

Now lower the pan to the floor and if you have to drain off the rest of the residual fluid in the pan.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9g.JPG

Looking up at the transmission valve housing you will see the filter with its steel base suspended from the housing. The filter is simply a press fit into the valve housing requiring a simple twist removal. Be careful NOT to pry downward so that you do not crack off the possibly brittle plastic.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9h.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9i.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9j.JPG

This a comparison shot with the new filter and seal along side the old filter and installed seal.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9k.JPG

Picture of the new seal installed on the new filter.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9l.JPG

Gently press the new filter up and into the valve body, notice that the filter may sag a bit, this is normal since the only thing holding it in is the small seal and insert into the valve body.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9m.JPG

Take the fluid pan and remove the old seal. I suggest cleaning out the pan and wiping it down. I noticed that on this transmission the magnet was cracked, I did not replace it but on the next change a new one will be ordered. Now reinstall the new seal.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9n.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9o.JPG

Reinstall the pan back on the transmission with the four bolts. Torque for the four bolts are 12 Nm (9 ft lb)
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9p.jpg

Next step is to remove the red security cap. IF your careful you can remove it without damaging it.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9q.JPG

Cap removed:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9r.JPG

Cap opened:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9s.JPG

Insert pry tool:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9t.JPG

Pry tool up:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9u.JPG

While holding the tool open the cap:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9v.JPG

For the filler plug you need to pry up some small tabs as well. Using the same tool pry them up, twist and remove the plug.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9w.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9y1.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9y2.JPG

Taking a 2 foot length of 3/4" heater hose slide it onto the fill port. Insert a funnel to make the filling process easier and reduce the chance of spilling. I suggest measuring the amount drained and refill that exact amount, this will cut the time to check the proper fill amount.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9y3.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9y4.JPG

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9y5.JPG

The next step requires the use of the VAG-Com and removal of the allen nut on the transmission pan. First off look at the picture taken out of the Bentley CD. This give you an idea of what it is that we are going to be checking.
http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/AT9y6.jpg

This is a condensed version of what is in the Bentley Manual:

FLUID LEVEL CHECKING PROCEDURE

Now start the car and go into the transmissions data blocks and go to block 005, this will display fluid temp.

-ATF temperature not above approx. 30C (86F)
-Vehicle level
-Selector lever in "P"
-If ATF is below 30C (86F) bring the ATF up to test temperature.
Test temperature: 35C to 45 (95 to 113F)
-Remove ATF level plug from oil pan.

CHECKING PHYSICAL QUANTITY

If ATF drips out of hole:
ATF need not be topped up.
-Install new seal on plug and tighten to 15 Nm11 ft lb).
ATF check is completed.

If ATF does not drip out
-Remove plug from filler line.
-Fill with ATF until ATF runs out of level hole
-Install new seal on plug and tighten to 15 Nm (11 ft lb).
ATF check is completed.

CAUTION!
Too little or too much ATF will adversely affect transmission function.

DB

<small>[ February 26, 2003, 15:09: Message edited by: Drivbiwire ]</small>

Changed a typo for Pete. Moderator.
 

DeafBug

Gone but Never Forgotten: Requiescat In Pace
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That is great! Umm, mind fixing some of the links above. It is nice that you take the time to do this hard work like the TB procedure you wrote up.
 

Judson

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Location
Cheyenne, WY
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2001 Jetta
That was excellent. That fluid sure looked brown!
How many miles were on that fluid?

Do you recommend only the approved VW tranny fluid?

Finally, did I miss the picture of the fluid level check allen nut? It's on the front side of the tranny, correct?

Thanks,

Jud.
 

Frankenwagen

Veteran Member
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Location
NH
Great post Drivbiwire! What is the mileage you are doing the change at?

One other suggestion, and it looks like you did it to some degree is that when this procedure is performed, remove as much dirt possible around the tranny. Cleanliness cannot be stressed enough. The smallest particles can cause big problems if they get in there.

I will give some more commentary here on this transmission however: I love it! I have one in my first TDI, a 1999 New Golf, where I think the auto transmission was a late introduction to the New Golfs that were a late introduction to the 1999 model year. (Does this make my car a 1999 and 3/4?) What I don't love is the way of checking the fluid. What a joke! I can understand some of the logic behind it. It keeps butch mechanics (or should I say technicians)from knob dicking with it, that is for certain. Uhhhhh, where's the dipstick? And, who can say that it isn't accurate. But how shortsighted is it where you need a laptop to check the oil and tell it is low but can't even tell how low it is with this sophisticated equipment. I can tell you how low it is in 5 seconds if it had a dipstick! So in that regard, I don't think this setup is OK. One step forward, two steps back. All this and it still does not get comparable mileage to the manual shift. Here I think VW needed to take some lessons from Honda. They really know or care to do something right with automatics. I suppose the DSG transmission we will soon me seeing is a step in the right direction. Can't wait to see how you fill that one. With all the issues and difficulty in having to service this transmission, I decided to get back to the roots. That is one of reasons the TDI wagon I just bought a couple of weeks ago is a 5 speed. Gotta get back to the roots. I still love that Golf though.
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
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Location
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2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
Originally posted by Judson:
That fluid sure looked brown!
How many miles were on that fluid?

Do you recommend only the approved VW tranny fluid?

Finally, did I miss the picture of the fluid level check allen nut? It's on the front side of the tranny, correct?

Thanks,

Jud.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">There were 80,000 miles on the fluid.

Ye only the OEM VW trnsmission fluid may be used in the 01M Autmatic transmission. This is NOT a generic "ATF".

Here is a picture of the new fluid in a stainless steel bowl. The fluid is similar in color to the manual fluid.


As far as checking the fluid level refer to the end of the procedure. I left the checking of the fluid to a mostly text description. Reread the procedure a couple of times and once you understand it completely it will make sense.

As far fluid change intervals, I subscribe to the 80,000 mile rule on these transmissions. There was a residue of what I would guess to be clutch plate material in the pan. Not a thick layer just a very very thin film.

Since these transmissions are liquid cooled using an internal coolant/fluid heat exchanger the fluid temperature is pretty well regulated so I doubt you will ever see any extreme temperatures with them.

One thing that I will look into later on is the adjustments that can be made to these transmissions that cannot be done on the manual 5 speeds. I have found that on the manual transmissions that at 300,000 miles the internal shafts need to be reshimmed requiring you to split the case and perform a complete tear down. On the Automatics you can reset the preloads on the differential with the transmission still in the car. I fully expect the automatics to last a very long time before needing a rebuild. Unlike the manual transmissions the automatics do need a periodic fluid change to keep the fluid flow through the filter at optimal levels for pressure and cooling and reduce the chances of pump cavitation.

DB
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
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2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
Originally posted by Frankenwagen:
I suppose the DSG transmission we will soon me seeing is a step in the right direction. Can't wait to see how you fill that one.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">From the Vortex:


The DSG is going to be interesting but I am not sure how this will compare with the CVT trnsmissions. The DSG does offer an advantage in that has a positive pathway to transfer power rather than relying on a steel band working againt pulleys in the case of a CVT.

DB
 

michTDI

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Thanks a LOT Pete. You said a while back that you'd put this together-and here it is!!! Can this be made into a pdf file-and then be put in the "articles" section (like the timing belt procedure was)???
 

GeWilli

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none in the fleet (99.5 Golf RIP, 96 B4V sold)
michTDI, I thought you had a 5 spd?



as for PDF . . . if someone has it as an HTML with all the images in it I'll format it into a PDF . . . .

Pete? wanna put that together and send me the file for conversion?
 

lrpavlo

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Cocoa FL
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09 Sportwagen DSG, 02 NB Auto
I sure would like to be able to print this out with the pictures.
I have to read things so darn many times before they make any sense now!

Thankx Pete! Meander's car has 139K miles....guess I'm a little behind in doing this eh?
 

spoilsport

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Pete:

Congratulations on another very generous donation of time and effort to Fred's!

BTW....That was a joke when you mentioned 'pry tool' in the write-up, wasn't it? Tell me it was just a screwdiver!!
 

GeWilli

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none in the fleet (99.5 Golf RIP, 96 B4V sold)
Lew,

are you contemplating adding another item to the 16th's GTG


sounds like to ensure i'll be there all day and long enough maybe I'd better take a collection and get my wife and daughter a plane ticket to make sure she's out of town
(the up in the air bit for here is the drive and what our daughter's mood is like
)

Here is a high speed mirror (well might be faster than the Pic Server dunno) of the file:
01M 4 Speed Automatic Fluid change Procedure (PDF)
 

Judson

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2001 Jetta
Thanks, Pete.

This sound like the fill-hole method used in the older manual VW trannies. But sometimes a picture
is worth a thousand words.

Anyway, per the DSG: from the R32 forum, this
tranny is most definitely torque limited in its
very operation to 250 ft. lbs. of torque. No
modding of the R32 engine for more torque (power),
or you'll void the warranty and very, very likely
do damage. It's been a long, involved discussion
over there, but very detailed. As a result, the
vast majority of prospective R32 buyers want
the 6 speed (so they can bolt on the supercharger,
of course).

80,000 miles, eh? That's a good three years away
for me.

Jud.
 

Drivbiwire

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2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
Originally posted by spoilsport:
Pete:

Congratulations on another very generous donation of time and effort to Fred's!

BTW....That was a joke when you mentioned 'pry tool' in the write-up, wasn't it? Tell me it was just a screwdiver!!
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I should have been more clear that its a pointed straight dentist tool. I knew that but you did not know that, just one of those little details I forgot to mention... Can't tell people EVERY little trick no can I


Thanks,
DB
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
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Location
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2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
Originally posted by Judson:
from the R32 forum, this
tranny is most definitely torque limited in its
very operation to 250 ft. lbs. of torque. No
modding of the R32 engine for more torque (power),
or you'll void the warranty and very, very likely
do damage. It's been a long, involved discussion
over there, but very detailed. As a result, the
vast majority of prospective R32 buyers want
the 6 speed (so they can bolt on the supercharger,
of course).

Jud.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">VW has been spec'ing transmissions to match their engines very closely. The 250 ft-lbs is probably the margin built into the clutch just like our DMF in the TDI. Simple mods start to push the limits of clamp force very quickly.

It was not long ago but somebody did an oil analysis on the fluid from the transmission. This is an option to consider when changing the fluid in terms of finding out how the unit as a whole is wearing. Perhaps AVlube (George) could chime in with possible sampling methods to determine wear in the transmissions.

DB
 

GotDiesel?

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Originally posted by Bill Kriese:
How does one contact you these days Pete?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Click on the little icon of the guy standing next to an envelope... it will pop up a clickable link to his e-mail address.
 

lrpavlo

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09 Sportwagen DSG, 02 NB Auto
After 4 read throughs I think I got it
but of course there are still questions:
1. will the car running in park at idle get the tranny up to the 35C degrees?
2. Your picture shows the front on Rhino ramps....did you just jack up the rear to get it level?
3. You put the 3/4" hose over the filler tube?? it doesn't leak out the sides??
4. Pan gasket goes on dry?
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
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Originally posted by lrpavlo:
After 4 read throughs I think I got it
but of course there are still questions:
1. will the car running in park at idle get the tranny up to the 35C degrees?
2. Your picture shows the front on Rhino ramps....did you just jack up the rear to get it level?
3. You put the 3/4" hose over the filler tube?? it doesn't leak out the sides??
4. Pan gasket goes on dry?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">1. The coolant and fluid exchange heat so the odds are your going to be at the right temp by the time your done changing the fluid.
2. Yes you can jack up the back of the car to level it out.
3. Yes the hose fits over the filler tube allowing a good fit to pour in the fluid without spilling.
4. Its much easier to put the pan on empty thatn full, otherwise its very clumsy and you may end up spilling $90.00 worth brand new transmission fluid...

DB
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
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2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
Originally posted by lrpavlo:
I sure would like to be able to print this out with the pictures.
I have to read things so darn many times before they make any sense now!

Thankx Pete! Meander's car has 139K miles....guess I'm a little behind in doing this eh?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Whats up Doc! Now you have no excuse for that fluid change. Thanks to Gewilli he threw together a quick PDF file with all the pics and a few extra directions. This will probably be revised slightly to allow a bit better formatting but the body of the procedure will remain unchanged. The .pdf is about 3.27mb so allow some time for the download.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/members/drivbiwire/Auto%20Fluid%20change%20procedure/01M%204%20Speed%20Automatic%20Fluid%20change%20Procedure.pdf

DB
 

lrpavlo

Veteran Member
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Cocoa FL
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09 Sportwagen DSG, 02 NB Auto
Thankx Drivbiwire! Looks like the cost of that fluid is NOT cheap!!

Still a little concerned with as cold as it has been here about getting it back up to temp...and knowing how well that happens at idle

Also on the absolute most scruplious cleanliness....whats the right thing to use for wiping off the pan inside etc?
 

spoilsport

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2000 Golf GLS Silver (Sold). 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon Tiptronic (daughter's)
Jacking up the rear while the front is on ramps? Wouldn't 4 jack stands be more secure.?
 

Drivbiwire

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Get two sets of Rhino ramps and drive up on them Thats the best way to do it...


An automatic in Park wont go anywhere on the Rhino Ramps plus they have the bump stop and wont collapse since they are solid. Put some jacks under the back end and raise it with the Rhino ramps under the front.

As far as washing the transmission down why would you need to do that? Isn't your engine clean like mine?
Get some brake cleaner, spray around the area to be worked on then wipe it down getting all the dust and grime off. There should not be much build up on the transmission since there should not be any oil ro fluid leaks.

DB
 

Judson

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Location
Cheyenne, WY
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2001 Jetta
Hey Pete -

VWvortex Forums-> Volkswagen -> Golf R32
From VWvortex, posted by Jamie:
Some Discussion and Information on DSG and the R32

I cut out one part out of the post:

- The torque rating is 325 newtons meters or 240 ft-lb - right about the torque rating of the 3.2l VR6

- The DSG transmission weighs about 66 lbs. more than the standard manual MQ350 six-speed. However that includes an oil cooler, ECU, two clutches and more so it isn't exactly an apples and oranges comparison. (edit: I also didn't clarify if this is the actual weight difference overall between the R32 manual trans and R32 DSG cars so don't hold me to it yet)

- DSG utilizes a lot of components from the six-speed MQ350 transmission including gears, syncros, sliders and more.

- DSG maintenance intervals have not been finalized, but it looks like a fluid and filter change about every 45,000 miles.

- Clutches are basically not upgradeable because there isn't any room in this particular transmission case. The R32 uses the highest torque rated DSG (currently) for the Golf IV platform. There are two variations of the DQ250 (internal name for the DSG) that have been set up with lesser mechanicals for lower torque rating applications. Those lower torque rated DQ250 transmission could be upgraded with the R32 box internals, but the R32 DSG box is the highest torque rated DSG for the Golf IV platform at this point (and likely for the rest of the Golf IV product lifecycle). Because the DSG is fully electronic, and match-revs downshifts for example, it is tied into the vehicle electronics (including the engine ECU) quite a bit which brings us to the next issue:

- While you will be able to get away with minor power upgrades to the R32 (intake, chip tuning, exhaust) with DSG, because of electronic protections and a maximum torque rating of 240 lb-ft, you won't want to add forced induction or any other heavy duty power upgrades. The DSG has what is referred to as micro-slippage in the clutch plates that is constantly monitored by the DSG ECU. If you put a supercharger on the R32 with a DSG transmission, the additional torque will force that micro-slippage beyond normal tolerances. When this happens, the DSG communicates back to the engine ECU and dials back timing and/or engine revs to try and correct for the "problem" it is seeing.

The natural assumption is that someone in the aftermarket will simply find a way around this and may attempt to change the programming of the transmission. It has taken VW a LONG time to get all the programming dialed in on this transmission and it would reportedly be an extremely daunting task to try and manipulate it successfully. Then, even if you did find ways around the built in protective measures, the transmission mechanicals are only designed to handle 240 lb-ft. of torque with no easy way to upgrade internals. This means the transmisison will likely overheat and shut down till back within proper temperature ranges and/or it will simply frag to pieces. So for those that want to add a supercharger or turbocharger to a DSG equipped transmission, it sounds like you may want to forget it.
 

jettajim

Veteran Member
Joined
May 31, 2000
Location
near Houston
TDI
'14 Golf 6-spd, '12 Passat gasser:(
Pete, great write-up.

I just changed mine last weekend and was going to do a write-up (but not as detailed as yours). But after doing the change, I decided not to because the Bentley was great.

This is a very simple job. Here are a few notes from my change:
1) the car was in the garage (level)
2) the 4 bolts holding on the skid plate are 5/8" (these must be the only SAE pieces on the car)
3) I don't have a laptop so my wife actually helped me with the temp. She was reading out the temps and relaying the info on our walkie-talkies while I was squeezed under the running car waiting for the atf to drip.
4) The temp reached 36C for about 1 minute and then the fluid started to drip. This is exactly what I wanted because it means that the volume in the tranny is full--ie if there was a dipstick, it would have been at the full mark. On the other hand, if you wait for the fluid to drip at 45C, this would correspond to the min level on a dipstick.
5) I drained almost 3L and put in about 3.5L. This is normal, almost every one that changed their atf put in ~0.5L more than they drained.

The car has 37K miles. There were no metal shavings but the oil was a little dark and there was sludge in the bottom of the pan. This sludge was from the oil 'cooking' but mainly from the clutch. The next drain will be only a drain and not the removal of the pan. I'll alternate this procedure.

Jim
 

zanzabar

Vendor
Joined
Oct 18, 2002
Location
Petaluma, CA
TDI
2004 Jetta BEW 5spd (dual duty track car and daily driver beater)
Did my fluid change a few days ago and learned (from my mistakes) alot!

Car: 2000 Jetta auto, 107k miles-mostly highway of course, not chipped, larger injectors (.170's from a manual) installed at 103k, most of life spent in UP of Michigan (read: cold weather, salty roads), I don't drive the car particularly hard-but I'm not afraid to drive fast or accelerate hard, and the operation of the transmission was fine at the time of fluid change.

Some observations:
First, my fluid was DARK, the color and consistency of Guiness Draught.

Second, there is a magnet in the bottom of the oil pan. It has strips of metallic wire apparently seated in a plastic or composite material of some sort. There was an approximately 1/4 inch layer of gelatinous substance on its surface, it had a distinctly grease-like consistency. At first I didn't know what it was (and still don't for sure), but now I believe it to be some kind of metallic-particle and ATF suspension. It had formed ridges that appeared to be consistent with the magnetic fields of the wires that formed the magnet. Does this make any sense? Is lithium grease essentially a suspesion of lithium in some form of petroleum??? My conclusion from this is that there was a significant load of metal wear particles in this fluid.

Finally, I made a few mistakes (of course) with the procedure
- this is going to be confusing. Here is the sequence of events:

I pulled the drain plug (with the red level plug still in place and temp at about 39 deg-car engine off), some fluid drained out-maybe a liter or two (which I thought meant it was overfilled?). I then pulled the red level plug and drained the fluid into an oil basin WITHOUT measuring the volume I drained. This caused much confusion later, for those of you planning to do this, MEASURE the fluid that comes out as a reference for later.

I pulled the pan off, replaced the filter, cleaned and reinstalled the pan. I then added 4 liters of fresh ATF, did NOT put the filler cap back on (on top of the pan, with the tubing to add the fluid also still attached), started the car and pulled the drain plug when the temp got up to 35 deg (forgot to shift it through the gears
), LOTS of fluid drained out. I tried to catch some of it in clean containers after the initial flow went into the oil change basin because it seemed to be much more than should have drained. Now I'm confused.

I put the plug back in, and stopped the car. When I realized that I didn't shift the car, I added a fifth liter of fresh fluid (my last) and started the car and ran it through each gear in succession (P,R,N,D,2,1,2,D,N,R,P) for about 5 seconds each. Then I pulled the plug, and caught over a liter of fluid in another clean container-which seemed like too much so I put the plug back in and turned the car off. Yikes.

I then realized that I didn't put the filler cap back on. I hypothesised that the filler cap is necessary to keep the pressure in the tranny at some level, and since it wasn't there too much fluid drained out. So, I put one more liter of fluid in (this time the stuff I just drained-it was still fairly dark, but not as bad as before), put the filler cap back on and started the car, shifted it through the gears and pulled the drain plug, a little over a liter came back out, but it finally stopped
.

I think it's at the right level now, but I have some questions: 1-Why does the car have to be running to get the correct level of ATF in the pan? (I'm assuming it's because the tranny pumps a certain amount of the fluid into the housing, and when the car isn't running it flows back into the pan.)
2-Does the filler cap on top of the pan have to be in place to get the correct level of ATF in the pan?


After all that, what I think I did was to drain about 4 liters of ATF, add five, drain two and then add one more.
Oh well.

I'd appreciate any insights!

Jay
 

Drivbiwire

Zehntes Jahr der Veteran
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Location
Boise, Idaho
TDI
2013 Passat TDI, Newmar Ventana 8.3L ISC 3945, 2016 E250 BT, 2000 Jetta TDI
I have some questions:

1-Why does the car have to be running to get the correct level of ATF in the pan? (I'm assuming it's because the tranny pumps a certain amount of the fluid into the housing, and when the car isn't running it flows back into the pan.)

2-Does the filler cap on top of the pan have to be in place to get the correct level of ATF in the pan?

Jay
I think you illuded to the actual reason for checking the fluid only when the car is running, that is that some fluid is up in the transmission meaning that a sufficient amount must still be in the pan to prevent uncovering of the fluid pickup.

4 liters of fluid are required the 4.5 is a typo in my post and I cant change it due to the limits of the UBB maybe Fred can go in and do that for me. Anyway 3.5 liters is about what is drained out give or take. Since you can only purchase fluid in 1 liter cans....I stick with 4 liters.

As long as you check the fluid level with the car running and close to proper temp the procedure is pretty much bullet proof.

Answer 2, no the cap does not have to be on the transmission when checking fluid. In fact it needs to be off just in case you need to add fluid when checking quantity.

Good to hear it went well and sorry for the quantity confusion.

DB
 

zanzabar

Vendor
Joined
Oct 18, 2002
Location
Petaluma, CA
TDI
2004 Jetta BEW 5spd (dual duty track car and daily driver beater)
[quote
4 liters of fluid are required the 4.5 is a typo in my post and I cant change it due to the limits of the UBB maybe Fred can go in and do that for me. Anyway 3.5 liters is about what is drained out give or take. Since you can only purchase fluid in 1 liter cans....I stick with 4 liters.

Good to hear it went well and sorry for the quantity confusion.

DB

[/QUOTE]

No biggie.
Thanks DB (and GeWilli for making the pdf), I could never have done it without your help.

Jay
 
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