2000 beetle tdi no start

touaregv10tdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2006
Location
Fort Lauderdale - Florida
TDI
2013 Beetle TDi,2000 Beetle TDi, 2016 BMW X5 Diesel, 2004 Touareg V10 TDi,2015 Beetle TDi, 2005 Jetta TDi
Hello friends,
I bought a 2000 TDI as a project car. Previous owner said it does not start.
It had some after market valet key.
I bought a key from fixmyvw.com, programmed the new key no issues, I got rid of the message incorrect key.
The car still not start. I matched a new ECU to the cluster, now I do not have the car/key icon flashing anymore, but still no start. I followed all the procedures, from Ross Tech and from the forums. Still no start. Below is the message I get from VCDS.
Does anybody have any clue/tips how do I get this car started?

Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.clb
Part No: 038 906 012 N
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 2509
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID:

3 Faults Found:
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
18050 - Please check DTC Memory of Airbag Controller
P1642 - 35-00 -
18050 - Please check DTC Memory of Airbag Controller
P1642 - 35-00 -
Readiness: 0 0 1 1 1 :confused:
 

touaregv10tdi

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2013 Beetle TDi,2000 Beetle TDi, 2016 BMW X5 Diesel, 2004 Touareg V10 TDi,2015 Beetle TDi, 2005 Jetta TDi
No start

Dude I am a veteran on these forum, I know how to google, I even contacted Ross-tech,
I am stumped as nothing works, I get the same immobilizer code every time. I don't know what else to do to get rid for this code that is why I posted here.

I lived out of this page, but still nothing http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer
 

Mongler98

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Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
ok, well it seems that the key fix did not resolve this. isnt there a bypass you can do on the security system like the mk3's? did you try it? its a jumper on a wire behind the vent. not sure about the compatibility of that fix on this car but its worth a shot! Also does it crank at all? how is the TDC markings?
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
Have an immo delete done then cover the flashing immo light with black electric tape or paint the bulb black. Did this on my daughters beetle, works like a charm.

Even the valet key will work after the delete. My daughter uses that more than the ones with the fob.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
im sure we dont have to tell you but, just checking, you are doing a fluid flush and change with a timing belt job right? never get a used TDI with out doing this first before putting miles on it.
 

touaregv10tdi

Veteran Member
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Jan 29, 2006
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Fort Lauderdale - Florida
TDI
2013 Beetle TDi,2000 Beetle TDi, 2016 BMW X5 Diesel, 2004 Touareg V10 TDi,2015 Beetle TDi, 2005 Jetta TDi
Beetle no start

Yes,
Any used car I get it only becomes a daily driver after at least a month in my garage for updating everything,
From clutch to timing belts to fluids etc.
I bought two beetles to work on this spring.
This one is giving me a headache.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Wow!

This has been my experience with using the wrong key.... engine starts and then shuts down immediately!

I recently picked up an ECU at the junk yard for dirt cheap. To give it a bit of a Test, I plugged it to the ALH system in my Vanagon. Hit the ignition, started immediately but shut down. Seems it did give the same code which I cleared.

OP, have you deleted the codes? Sometimes deleting old codes clears up the thinking of the ECU ....

I suppose you've checked the mechanical timing and that sort a thing. Do you know how long it has been since it last was a running engine?

There may be other issues, such as fuel related, IP may need primed, injector lines bled, etc... just kind of grasping at straws with these questions/comments!
 

touaregv10tdi

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Joined
Jan 29, 2006
Location
Fort Lauderdale - Florida
TDI
2013 Beetle TDi,2000 Beetle TDi, 2016 BMW X5 Diesel, 2004 Touareg V10 TDi,2015 Beetle TDi, 2005 Jetta TDi
Wow!

This has been my experience with using the wrong key.... engine starts and then shuts down immediately!

I recently picked up an ECU at the junk yard for dirt cheap. To give it a bit of a Test, I plugged it to the ALH system in my Vanagon. Hit the ignition, started immediately but shut down. Seems it did give the same code which I cleared.

OP, have you deleted the codes? Sometimes deleting old codes clears up the thinking of the ECU ....

I suppose you've checked the mechanical timing and that sort a thing. Do you know how long it has been since it last was a running engine?

There may be other issues, such as fuel related, IP may need primed, injector lines bled, etc... just kind of grasping at straws with these questions/comments!

Replacing the ECU alone does not solve the issue. You need to introduce the ECU to the cluster by using VCDS. Your issue seems easier than mine. In my case the car does not start. I have tried to prime the injection pump and fuel system but fuel does not come out if I lose all the lines or unplug the return line. I believe the immobilizer cuts the fuel using the fuel solenoid.
I think the car has not run in about one year.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
I didn't have an issue. I was only "testing" a junk yard ECU (it was unplugged and exposed to the elements at the junk yard). It did as it was supposed to do.... start and shut down. I opened it up ... nice and clean inside! So, I have a good spare that needs the immobilizer delete!

Have you checked voltage at the solenoid? When the ignition is first turned ON, there should be 12 volts....... then, voltage will drop off almost immediately! That is normal.

I'm thinking the immobilizer does more than shut-off fuel if it senses a no-match on the ignition key!
 

touaregv10tdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2006
Location
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TDI
2013 Beetle TDi,2000 Beetle TDi, 2016 BMW X5 Diesel, 2004 Touareg V10 TDi,2015 Beetle TDi, 2005 Jetta TDi
I didn't have an issue. I was only "testing" a junk yard ECU (it was unplugged and exposed to the elements at the junk yard). It did as it was supposed to do.... start and shut down. I opened it up ... nice and clean inside! So, I have a good spare that needs the immobilizer delete!

Have you checked voltage at the solenoid? When the ignition is first turned ON, there should be 12 volts....... then, voltage will drop off almost immediately! That is normal.

I'm thinking the immobilizer does more than shut-off fuel if it senses a no-match on the ignition key!
I will check the voltage at the solenoid later on. As for the key, it is now programmed and correct key, I have programmed it via VCDS, the logs show no issue with the keys. The remote locks and unlocks the car, I do not have that car/key icon flashing in my dash anymore, but still no start.

The icon above the 80MPH used to be flashing, not anymore (this is not my cluster it is for illustration only)

 
Last edited:

maxmoo

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Jan 19, 2011
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Lakefield, Ontario, Canada
TDI
2000 golf, 2001 golf, 2000 beetle, 2003 wagon, 2004 golf, 2004 jetta, all diesels
Replacing the ECU alone does not solve the issue. You need to introduce the ECU to the cluster by using VCDS. Your issue seems easier than mine. In my case the car does not start. I have tried to prime the injection pump and fuel system but fuel does not come out if I lose all the lines or unplug the return line. I believe the immobilizer cuts the fuel using the fuel solenoid.
I think the car has not run in about one year.
It sounds to me like you solved the imobilizer issue but now you still have a loss of prime issue from sitting so long.

Did you pull a vacuum from the inj pump return line, (while blocking off the return line fitting on the filter), until you get steady fuel and then bleeding the inj lines at the injectors by cranking the engine over until fuel squirts out around the loosened 17mm nuts?
 
Last edited:

touaregv10tdi

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Location
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2013 Beetle TDi,2000 Beetle TDi, 2016 BMW X5 Diesel, 2004 Touareg V10 TDi,2015 Beetle TDi, 2005 Jetta TDi
It sounds to me like you solved the imobilizer issue but now you still have a loss of prime issue from sitting so long.

Did you pull a vacuum from the inj pump return line, (while blocking off the return line fitting on the filter), until you get steady fuel and then bleeding the inj lines at the injectors by cranking the engine over until fuel squirts out around the loosened 17mm nuts?
I have not tried that yet, but what puzzles me is the code I get from the ECU 17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
 

touaregv10tdi

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2013 Beetle TDi,2000 Beetle TDi, 2016 BMW X5 Diesel, 2004 Touareg V10 TDi,2015 Beetle TDi, 2005 Jetta TDi
Did you pull a vacuum from the inj pump return line, (while blocking off the return line fitting on the filter)

Can you explain in detail this procedure? Are there any pictures out there? I am not sure I am understanding 100%, I want to try that next.
 

hey_allen

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Nov 25, 2006
Location
Altus, OK
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI
The easiest way I've found to use vacuum to re-prime the pump and filter is to disconnect the 3mm injector return line and hook a vacuum pump with a catch cup to the hose nipple at the injection pump.

Pull vacuum on it until you get few bubbles if any coming into the reservoir, before reconnecting the injector return hose.

With a new filter and a dry IP, it took 5-10 minutes with ~20 inHg vacuum applied, but I was able to re-prime the injectors immediately after.
 

maxmoo

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Location
Lakefield, Ontario, Canada
TDI
2000 golf, 2001 golf, 2000 beetle, 2003 wagon, 2004 golf, 2004 jetta, all diesels
Can you explain in detail this procedure? Are there any pictures out there? I am not sure I am understanding 100%, I want to try that next.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFy7LDrT12w

This is how I do it, but he did not block off the fitting where the return hose was removed from the filter....this needs to be blocked off either just with your finger or a short piece of hose with a plug or bolt in it so that you don't just suck more air in at the filter when you apply a vacuum.
 

maxmoo

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Location
Lakefield, Ontario, Canada
TDI
2000 golf, 2001 golf, 2000 beetle, 2003 wagon, 2004 golf, 2004 jetta, all diesels
The easiest way I've found to use vacuum to re-prime the pump and filter is to disconnect the 3mm injector return line and hook a vacuum pump with a catch cup to the hose nipple at the injection pump.

Pull vacuum on it until you get few bubbles if any coming into the reservoir, before reconnecting the injector return hose.

With a new filter and a dry IP, it took 5-10 minutes with ~20 inHg vacuum applied, but I was able to re-prime the injectors immediately after.
^ that works also, although it can be slower.
see this method here....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbz_Jyp6AkY
 
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