oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
The North American B5 Passat TDI came with a 72Ah battery, while the Golf and Jetta TDIs of the same vintage came with the larger 80Ah. The New Beetle had to make do with the 72Ah unit for space limits, however the Passat has no such limits. In fact, most Audi A4s, which ride on the same platform, came from the factory with the larger battery.
Old battery installed:
Old and new batteries:
So here is how you upgrade your Passat's battery when the time comes
The battery I am using is an Entertec model, from Volkswagen. I have found these are not only an excellent battery, but a pretty good value. You can also use an Interstate MTP-H7, which is also an 80Ah battery. Although most Interstate retailers will not stock one, they can all get one. The VW part number for the 80Ah battery is 000-915-105-AG (the standard 72Ah is the AF suffix). You will also need to order the different battery hold down (they call it a clamping strip) 8D1-803-123-D. Any Volkswagen or Audi dealer can order you one of these.
Here is the old battery hold down and the new one:
First, remove the cowl cover, and if you have a memory saver you can plug that into the cigarette lighter now (if you do not, you will lose the memory on your MFA, clock, and your ECU will lose its readiness monitors).
Remove the negative battery cable completely which requires a 10mm on the battery clamp and a 13mm on the body grounding point capnut.
Remove the 10mm nut holding the positive lead from the battery clamp going off to the car's electrical system (heading towards the brake master cylinder area). Caution: this leg will STILL HAVE LIVE POWER if you are using a memory saver, so cover it and do not let it touch anything metal!!!
Next remove the positive battery clamp 10mm holder, and pop the positive cable holder out of the body at the firewall, and swing it around and out of the way, over near the A/C pipes and pollen filter. This should not have any power on it now, as this is the main leg to the starter and alternator.
Then pop both ends of the vacuum tube running from the firewall pass-through grommet to the brake booster. There will be a hiss when you remove it from the booster, that is normal. Take care not to kink this tube.
Remove the battery vent tube from the side of the battery (positive cable side) and position aside.
Remove the bolt from the battery hold-down clamp, this is a 13mm, then lift the clamp away.
Now the battery is ready to come out. You will need to slide and tilt it towards the pollen filter side of the car a bit to get it to come out. Be careful not to lose grip of it and drop it on anything!
Now is the perfect time to clean UNDER the battery. I prefer to wipe the battery tray down and use some spray wax under that area, and make sure your grounding stud is clean and free of any rust or corrosion.
Locate the threaded hole in the body near the grounding stud. Depending on how much rust proofing your car recieved, it may be partially covered with goo. Clean that up, and make sure the threads easily take the hold down bolt. The thread is 8 x 1.25 if you need to use a thread chaser to clean it up, but generally some solvent or brake cleaner will remove any rustproofing and reveal a squeaky-clean virgin threaded hole.
Next, slide your new battery in.... take care is it is a little longer so it will be an even tighter fit. Make certain you have it oriented correcty, and make sure the vent plug is in the correct side of the battery, so you can reattach the vent tube on the opposite side.
Install the new clamp like this:
It is right next to the grounding lug, and then snug the bolt (it need not be very tight). Make sure it is at a right angle to the battery. Make sure the battery vent tube is put in.
Then reinstall the vacuum tube, popping it securely into the pass-through grommet and booster. Then lay the positive cable back over, attach it, attach the smaller lead from the car to the stud on the cable end, and pop the cable stay back into the firewall.
Put your ground cable back on, and snug the fasteners. Make sure the ground cable tang is at right angles to the battery. Once both cables are attached, you can remove your memory saver.
Reinstall the cowl cover, start the engine and let it idle for about 15 seconds BEFORE moving the car, so that the brake booster has adequate time to build boost for the brakes.
If you did not use a memory saver, you will need to reset your clock, and drive the car for all the readiness monitors to run (these will do so anyways, so you do not have to drive the car right away).
Dispose of your old battery in the proper manner.
Old battery installed:
Old and new batteries:
So here is how you upgrade your Passat's battery when the time comes
The battery I am using is an Entertec model, from Volkswagen. I have found these are not only an excellent battery, but a pretty good value. You can also use an Interstate MTP-H7, which is also an 80Ah battery. Although most Interstate retailers will not stock one, they can all get one. The VW part number for the 80Ah battery is 000-915-105-AG (the standard 72Ah is the AF suffix). You will also need to order the different battery hold down (they call it a clamping strip) 8D1-803-123-D. Any Volkswagen or Audi dealer can order you one of these.
Here is the old battery hold down and the new one:
First, remove the cowl cover, and if you have a memory saver you can plug that into the cigarette lighter now (if you do not, you will lose the memory on your MFA, clock, and your ECU will lose its readiness monitors).
Remove the negative battery cable completely which requires a 10mm on the battery clamp and a 13mm on the body grounding point capnut.
Remove the 10mm nut holding the positive lead from the battery clamp going off to the car's electrical system (heading towards the brake master cylinder area). Caution: this leg will STILL HAVE LIVE POWER if you are using a memory saver, so cover it and do not let it touch anything metal!!!
Next remove the positive battery clamp 10mm holder, and pop the positive cable holder out of the body at the firewall, and swing it around and out of the way, over near the A/C pipes and pollen filter. This should not have any power on it now, as this is the main leg to the starter and alternator.
Then pop both ends of the vacuum tube running from the firewall pass-through grommet to the brake booster. There will be a hiss when you remove it from the booster, that is normal. Take care not to kink this tube.
Remove the battery vent tube from the side of the battery (positive cable side) and position aside.
Remove the bolt from the battery hold-down clamp, this is a 13mm, then lift the clamp away.
Now the battery is ready to come out. You will need to slide and tilt it towards the pollen filter side of the car a bit to get it to come out. Be careful not to lose grip of it and drop it on anything!
Now is the perfect time to clean UNDER the battery. I prefer to wipe the battery tray down and use some spray wax under that area, and make sure your grounding stud is clean and free of any rust or corrosion.
Locate the threaded hole in the body near the grounding stud. Depending on how much rust proofing your car recieved, it may be partially covered with goo. Clean that up, and make sure the threads easily take the hold down bolt. The thread is 8 x 1.25 if you need to use a thread chaser to clean it up, but generally some solvent or brake cleaner will remove any rustproofing and reveal a squeaky-clean virgin threaded hole.
Next, slide your new battery in.... take care is it is a little longer so it will be an even tighter fit. Make certain you have it oriented correcty, and make sure the vent plug is in the correct side of the battery, so you can reattach the vent tube on the opposite side.
Install the new clamp like this:
It is right next to the grounding lug, and then snug the bolt (it need not be very tight). Make sure it is at a right angle to the battery. Make sure the battery vent tube is put in.
Then reinstall the vacuum tube, popping it securely into the pass-through grommet and booster. Then lay the positive cable back over, attach it, attach the smaller lead from the car to the stud on the cable end, and pop the cable stay back into the firewall.
Put your ground cable back on, and snug the fasteners. Make sure the ground cable tang is at right angles to the battery. Once both cables are attached, you can remove your memory saver.
Reinstall the cowl cover, start the engine and let it idle for about 15 seconds BEFORE moving the car, so that the brake booster has adequate time to build boost for the brakes.
If you did not use a memory saver, you will need to reset your clock, and drive the car for all the readiness monitors to run (these will do so anyways, so you do not have to drive the car right away).
Dispose of your old battery in the proper manner.