How To: B5.5 FM100 5-micron Fuel Filter Upgrade

SUNRG

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Rational

The OEM fuel filter has been virtually unchanged since the IDI VW diesels and when VW started making TDIs injection pressures increased and contaminant caused injector wear increased.

Enter the PD and injection pressures went thru the roof to 30,000+psi but *initially* the fuel filter was still unchanged. VW eventually realized what a problem pairing 30,000psi with an antiquated fuel filter was and completely redesigned the filter with a far more advanced filter media - beginning with the 2006 A5s.

The Mann MultimediaF filters in the A5s are outstanding, cutting edge diesel fuel filtration.

Unfortunately, that leaves us A4 and B5.5 PD owners to fend for our beloved TDI fuel pumping and injection systems!

If you stay with OEM fuel filtration your PD will run great for a long while, then pretty good, then OK and then not so well in comparison to when it was new but it's a gradual deterioration of performance so you may not notice it until it gets really bad. When it does get bad the cost of replacing PD injectors is quite high.

Upgrading to a modern high-performance diesel fuel filter should enable injection performance to be like-new for longer and performance deteriorization will be slower. The cost of upgrading is quite low and replacement FM100 filters are less expensive than OEM filters ...

Filtration Efficiency Data

Following is data straight from Mann and Stanadyne regarding the filtration efficiencies of the A4 OEM and FM100 filters using the same ISO/TR 13353 testing procedure.

ISO/TR 13353: gives a test procedure for evaluating the initial efficiency by particule counting of an internal combustion engine fuel filter by submitting the filter to a constant flowrate of test liquid.

A4 OEM/MANN: The filtration efficiency of WK 853/3 is 58% at 3-5 micron, according to ISO/TR 13353

Stanadyne FM100 5-micron: Average Particle Retention Efficiency (at 5-micron) Per ISO TR 13353, Sec. 6.2 - 97% @ 170 lph (45 gph)

Parts
FM100 Filter Head with 3/8” NPT Ports
FM100 6” 5um Fuel Filter Element
2 – 3/8 > 1/8 brass bushings
2 – 1/8 > 5/16 hose fittings
2 – 3/8 plugs
6’ – 7.5mm diesel fuel line
7 – stainless steel hose clamps

Tools
2 – line clamps
¼” drive
7/16 socket or combination wrench
11/16 socket or combination wrench
pliers
scissors
10mm socket
torx bit to remove fuel filter star bolt and replace with 5mm stainless steel allen bolt

Procedure

Pre - clean engine and "customize" FM100 head
  • the day before doing any fuel system work i clean my engine to reduce the risk of dirt being introduced into the fuel system.
  • cut the mounting bracket off the FM100 head as the filter will be held in the OEM filter bracket. i used a common 12" hacksaw with a 24tpi blade. i went slow, easy and carefully and it probably took me 25 minutes.





1 - Prep and Install fittings on FM100 Filter Head
  • carefully wrap all fitting threads in teflon tape being certain to only apply tape to the threads. Do not to allow any tape to obstruct the fuel flow path.




  • tighten all fittings down onto FM100 head. when looking at the front of the FM100, install plugs to the right side, hose fittings to the left side.
2 - Remove Old Filter
  • All fuel lines are completely removed *with the exception of the fuel line that delivers cleaned fuel from the fuel filter to the engine*. Use hose clamps to reduce fuel spillage. The return line that goes from the engine to through a fuel sensor to the thermostatic "T" is removed after the fuel sensor (ie - the fuel sensor remains in place).
  • Loosen , remove and loosely replace the star bolt with a 5mm stainless steel allen bolt.
  • Remove and discard the OEM fuel filter.


3 - Install Fuel Return Line
On my TDIs I remove the thermostatic "T" so this image shows the return line going from the engine to a fuel sensor and then directly back to the fuel tank (fuel actually travels through a fuel cooler after leaving the engine bay en route to returning to the fuel tank).



 
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SUNRG

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4 - Install FM100 with Mann Pre-Filter, Prime and Flush Fuel Filter
Place the assembled FM100 filter, head and fittings in the OEM fuel filter bracket and tighten 5mm allen bolt.

Connect all fuel lines *except the line that delivers clean fuel from the fuel filter to the engine*.

Attach Mity-Vac to the fuel-out port on the FM100 head. Pump the Mity-Vac to prime the system, then continue to pump a quart of fuel through the system to flush any assembly contaminants from the unit.




5 - Remove Mity-Vac, attach the Fuel Delivery line, start engine and check for leaks.



6 - Images:
Front View:


Pre-Filter Close-Up


Rear Close-Up:


Fuel Line Routing


Top View:


Overview 1:




 
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SUNRG

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Images (continued):
Overview 2:


Outcome:

Overall, I am incredibly pleased with this install. I've installed FM100s on A4 VWs and Mercedes 123s, this was my first attempt at a B5.5 install and the result is perfect.

Line routing is very flowing and natural, moreso by far than the OEM setup IMHO.

Cheers! Rob
 
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SUNRG

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aja8888 said:
Very nice job, I should do that upgrade too.
since you've invested in the BS you're probably planning to keep your B5.5 a long while, so yeah, this is a huge upgrade in terms of fuel cleanliness, fuel water removal, increased contaminant capacity, increased filter face surface area, super easy filter changes (twist off ring) and the pre-filter is a great sight glass so you can easily see what the fuel looks like that's going into your beloved TDI. if you ever were to get a batch of horribly contaminated fuel you may be able to see that by looking at the pre-filter. cheers! rob
 

SUNRG

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OEM:


Filter Media (technology circa 1977)
dirty

clean


New and Old:


FM100 Filter Media :D
 
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SUNRG

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updated original post to include fuel filter upgrade rational.
 

KALaBenne

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'04 B5.5V GLS
Great write up, I vote it goes in mogolf's how-to thread.

Three questions:
1) I thought I read somewhere that there was a reaction between brass and biodiesel? or was that WVO?

2) In one of the other threads on this filter set-up you used a gauge mounted in one of the empty ports, would this be a good way to know when to change it? or do you just change it every 20K still?

3) Is there enough slack in the lines that you can lift the whole mess up out of the clamp to screw off the filter and change it without having to undo the fuel lines? I guess I'm asking what the changing procedure becomes?
 

SUNRG

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i think the brass biod reaction claims are overblown. but, there are other fitting options. plastic is readily available and stainless steel can be aquired (so i hear).

i change the filter annually, each fall, and i think this is a good practice to insure optimal winter fuel flow and filtration. so i skipped the restriction guage in this install. this filter in the 6" version that i installed is designed for huge diesel engines, so annual changes are overdoing it but i still feel like it's a reasonable practice - especially since they're only like $17 a filter.

there's a super-simple lock ring that secures the filter head to the filter. to change the filter all you do is loosen the lock ring 1/4 turn, then the filter head lifts right off with all hoses attached. loosen the 5mm filter housing bolt, lift the old filter out, drop the new filter in, fill with injector cleaner, place the head on the new filter, turn the lock ring and done. incredibly easy.

KALaBenne said:
Great write up, I vote it goes in mogolf's how-to thread.

Three questions:
1) I thought I read somewhere that there was a reaction between brass and biodiesel? or was that WVO?

2) In one of the other threads on this filter set-up you used a gauge mounted in one of the empty ports, would this be a good way to know when to change it? or do you just change it every 20K still?

3) Is there enough slack in the lines that you can lift the whole mess up out of the clamp to screw off the filter and change it without having to undo the fuel lines? I guess I'm asking what the changing procedure becomes?
 

cvalentine

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Location
Anchorage, AK
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2003 Golf, 2014 328d
Sweet install, but I would avoid the use of teflon tape on threaded fuel connections. Although you can get away with teflon tape if you're careful, you're better off using a fuel rated dope like Gasoila.
 

aja8888

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Qusetion: where is Gasoila tape sold locally. I really don't want to mail order it if possible.

Also: are these the correct head and filter parts?


31877 FM100 standard flow F/WS element 6" 5m $17.52 ea.1 $17.52

33648 FM100 Head Assembly - 3/8x18 NPTF Ports $37.00 ea.1 $37.00
[SIZE=-1][/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]Subtotal:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1]$54.52[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1][/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]UPS Gnd Residential [77381] Shipping:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1]$14.08[/SIZE]Grand Total:$68.60https://www.mcafeesecure.com/RatingVerify?ref=cartserver.com

Thanks,

Tony
 
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SUNRG

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i looked at the Gasoila website and their thread tapes are PTFE - i.e. teflon tape.

i've assembled whole biodiesel co-op fuel pumping and filtration assemblies with teflon tape and no problems.

cvalentine - am i missing something? what is your concern regarding teflon?

aja8888 - i've always used www.reliableindustries.com Toll Free: 800.693.4583

those parts do look correct.
 

aja8888

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SUNRG said:
i looked at the Gasoila website and their thread tapes are PTFE - i.e. teflon tape.

i've assembled whole biodiesel co-op fuel pumping and filtration assemblies with teflon tape and no problems.

cvalentine - am i missing something? what is your concern regarding teflon?

aja8888 - i've always used www.reliableindustries.com Toll Free: 800.693.4583

those parts do look correct.
Thanks, their website does not allow online ordering, but they are "local" (Texas). I may give them a call Monday. Teflon tape it is.

Tony
 

SUNRG

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Here's data straight from the manufacturers, both using identical testing procedure ISO/TR 13353.

ISO/TR 13353: gives a test procedure for evaluating the initial efficiency by particule counting of an internal combustion engine fuel filter by submitting the filter to a constant flowrate of test liquid.

A4 OEM/MANN:

Quote:
The filtration efficiency of WK 853/3 is 58% at 3-5 micron, according to ISO/TR 13353
Stanadyne FM100 5-micron:
Quote:
Average Particle Retention Efficiency (at 5-micron) Per ISO TR 13353, Sec. 6.2 - 97% @ 170 lph (45 gph)
 

SUNRG

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aja8888 said:
Thanks, their website does not allow online ordering, but they are "local" (Texas). I may give them a call Monday. Teflon tape it is.

Tony
yeah you gotta call these guys up, but they're super nice. i had a little more in the package they shipped to me and the freight charge was only $9.90. also Reliable's prices are a tiny bit lower than what you were quoted.

PS - if you don't have a mity vac you can pick up a mity vac knock-off at walmart for under $10. that's what i did. it's only needed IMHO for the initial install to flush the system by pulling a significant amount of fluid through it. thereafter you can just pop off the head unit, drop in a new filter, pour diesel purge or the like in it, put the head back on and drive.
 
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aja8888

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Thanks,I will call them. I have two Mityvacs (the small hand vac pump and the 7200 upright model).

Where do you get your 7.5 mm fuel line?

Tony
 

SUNRG

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aja8888 said:
Thanks,I will call them. I have two Mityvacs (the small hand vac pump and the 7200 upright model).

Where do you get your 7.5 mm fuel line?

Tony
i have two german auto repair shops here in Roanoke, Martin's and RJK, and i just drop into either one to get 7.5mm fuel line. common 5/16 fuel line is very close, but i prefer 7.5mm.
 

T_D_I_POWER

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Good job Sunrg.

A possible suggestion.......replace the the general hose clamps used in the project with the OE/OEM worm gear hose clamps style. OE/OEM worm gear hose clamps have raised angled and radiused edges and the teeth dig into the hose rather then cut into the hose like general hose clamps do :)
 
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SUNRG

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T_D_I_POWER said:
Good job Sunrg. I am just wondering that you used general hose clamps that cut into the hose rather than the OE/OEM hose clamps that dig into the hose
the pre-filter's hose fittings are not barbed so i chose the stainless steel hose clamps because i felt they clamp down more securely. spring clamps probably would have been OK though.
 

cvalentine

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SUNRG said:
i looked at the Gasoila website and their thread tapes are PTFE - i.e. teflon tape.

i've assembled whole biodiesel co-op fuel pumping and filtration assemblies with teflon tape and no problems.

cvalentine - am i missing something? what is your concern regarding teflon?

aja8888 - i've always used www.reliableindustries.com Toll Free: 800.693.4583

those parts do look correct.
My concern is regular plumbing teflon tape is not typically rated for fuel use. A poor install of Teflon tape also has the added risk of sending a stray piece of tape down the line and messing things up.

A properly rated non-hardening pipe _dope_ like Gasolia E-Seal would be proper, but like I said, if you're a careful shadetree mechanic, it'll work.
 

aja8888

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Question about parts list (excuse my ignorance here);

Parts

FM100 Filter Head with 3/8” NPT Ports
FM100 6” 5um Fuel Filter Element
2 – 3/8 > 1/8 brass bushings
2 – 1/8 > 5/16 hose fittings
2 – 3/8 plugs
6’ – 7.5mm diesel fuel line
7 – stainless steel hose clamps

What are the 2 - 18 > 5/16 hose fittings used for?

Thanks,

Tony
 

KALaBenne

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Tony,
I think those are for connecting the two pieces of fuel line on either end of the thermostatic "t" that you remove when doing this upgrade.

Edit-- upon second look, I think you go from 3/8 to the 1/8 and then 1/8 to 5/16 hose fitting, so that effectively you've made a 3/8 to 5/16 hose fitting.
 
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aja8888

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KALaBenne said:
Tony,
I think those are for connecting the two pieces of fuel line on either end of the thermostatic "t" that you remove when doing this upgrade.

Edit-- upon second look, I think you go from 3/8 to the 1/8 and then 1/8 to 5/16 hose fitting, so that effectively you've made a 3/8 to 5/16 hose fitting.
Thanks Keith, but a before and after hand drawn sketch would be better than trying to decipher photos. I have ordered the FM100 head and filter and now need fuel line and fittings. Maybe SUNRG will post in here later.

Tony
 

SUNRG

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KALaBenne said:
Tony,
I think those are for connecting the two pieces of fuel line on either end of the thermostatic "t" that you remove when doing this upgrade.

Edit-- upon second look, I think you go from 3/8 to the 1/8 and then 1/8 to 5/16 hose fitting, so that effectively you've made a 3/8 to 5/16 hose fitting.
this is CORRECT!


i could not find a 3/8NPT to 5/16 hose fitting so i had to do it in two steps:
3/8 > 1/8 is a bushing
1/8 > 5/16 hose is a hose fitting

the fuel return line and thermostatic T are replaced with a single continuous section of 7.5mm fuel hose.

and FWIW, 5/16 fuel hose = 8mm so if you have access to diesel rated 5/16" you could opt for that.

aja8888 - please take pics and share your expereinces. and if you need assistance send me a PM.

cheers!
 
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KALaBenne

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SUNRG said:
the fuel return line and thermostatic T are replaced with a single continuous section of 7.5mm fuel hose.
I was wondering how you did that.

One other question: I was reading in your other thread from when you did this to your golf, and you were worried about pre-filling the filter because it would fill the 'clean' side rather than the 'dirty' side like the OEM. Did you decide it's not really an issue as long as you use a fresh bottle of PS or similar?
 

aja8888

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SUNRG said:
this is CORRECT!


i could not find a 3/8NPT to 5/16 hose fitting so i had to do it in two steps:
3/8 > 1/8 is a bushing
1/8 > 5/16 hose is a hose fitting

the fuel return line and thermostatic T are replaced with a single continuous section of 7.5mm fuel hose.

and FWIW, 5/16 fuel hose = 8mm so if you have access to diesel rated 5/16" you could opt for that.

aja8888 - please take pics and share your expereinces. and if you need assistance send me a PM.

cheers!

I figured the tank return line was was replaced with the long, one piece length. Those extra fittings had me confused. Once I have all the parts, I'll do a pictorial and post the installation here.

Thanks,

Tony
 

SUNRG

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KALaBenne said:
I was wondering how you did that.

One other question: I was reading in your other thread from when you did this to your golf, and you were worried about pre-filling the filter because it would fill the 'clean' side rather than the 'dirty' side like the OEM. Did you decide it's not really an issue as long as you use a fresh bottle of PS or similar?
basically yes. since loads of people are doing diesel purges with that unfiltered and recycled fluid, i figure while it's not ideal to ever have unfiltered fluid pumped through injectors at 30,000psi - if you fill with something like LM Diesel Purge that's probably very well pre-filtered it's IMHO still OK. LM Diesel Purge is my choice of pre-fill fluid.

Even though I wrote a How-To for PD diesel purge, the process is not ideal for PD engines. the fuel volume is too low and the PD injectors produce too much heat for me to be comfortable doing it in my PDs. so if i have some DP around i'll pre-fill my FM100 with it. if i don't have any i drop the filter in dry and cycle the lift pump until it fills. the FM100 is significantly larger than the OEM so expect it to take quite a few more cycles.

i'm kinda a nut about fuel cleanliness and quality, and air cleanliness because fuel and air are the ways contaminants potentially get into our engines. if both are very well filtered and the fuel is of a high quality, chances are the engine is going to run very very well and oil performance will be high.

B5.5 air filtration is top notch. this fuel filter upgrade bring the fuel filtration in-line with the excellent air filtration. use a high quality oil and you have a recipe for lasting very high performance.

hope this helps. cheers! rob
 

aja8888

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I have that one can of new LM Diesel Purge just sitting on the garage shelf waiting to get poured into the new FM100 6" filter canister I just ordered....;)
 

SUNRG

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aja8888 said:
I have that one can of new LM Diesel Purge just sitting on the garage shelf waiting to get poured into the new FM100 6" filter canister I just ordered....;)
i *don't* recommend pouring in DP the first time you fill the system because i feel it is important to flush at least a liter of fluid through to new filter assembly to cleanse it of any contaminants.

i recommend using your mity vac on the initial install. thereafter, you can just twist the ring, lift the head off, remove the old filter, drop a new one in, fill with DP, replace head, tighten ring and motor on.

the FM100 filter head is incredibly simple, but check it over thoroughly during assembly. i've never seen anything like this before in an FM100 but here's a look at some of what i found in my new FM100 when i opened it up:





it was very easy to clean this out, and like i said, i've never seen anything like this in and FM100 before, but it's a good ideal to fully disassemble all new FM100s just to be sure.

by flushing the system with at least a liter of fuel you ensure that your TDI enjoys this new and very high level of filtration performance from the moment you start the car.
 
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