Major oil leak

Hey guys I come from a long line of b5 a4s and currently have two of them. One is sitting without an engine and the other is my winter beater. The plans for this car where summer daily.

First car 97 1.8tqm



Winter beater 01 1.8tqm that I'm currently daily driving.


Summer car 1.8tqm that I have a 4.2 I was thinking of putting in but a 1.8bat is much more racecar.



And now my 02 mk4 golf. The body was pretty mint until I rolled it into my van and scrapped the rear pass corner of the car.




The car has 396k kms on it, I paid $500 for it with two sets of wheels, the summer tires are new. It's currently running rough and puffing blue smoke out the back. Cam shaft seal looks fine. Head gasket looks wet but that could be from the oil get shot around from the timing belt.



I have a timing belt kit lined up locally for $200 as i will need one of those at the very least, also getting a head gasket and bolts for $20. Not sure where the oil is coming from yet. fluids dont look to be mixed. so the front main seal?


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I have scanned it but don't want to run it long until i get the oil leak and belt sorted out.




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Looks can be deceiving, I would do both the cam and crank seals with that many miles.

eddieleephd said:

Looks can be deceiving, I would do both the cam and crank seals with that many miles.

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Yea all the front seals will be replaced when I swap out the belt.

I am picking up a compression tester this afternoon and then will replace the injector seals and test the engine out before I go throwing money/time into chasing the oil leak. Should be able to rule out the head gasket.


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I may be a kindergartener, but I can't get the jist, too big, too much.
Major oil leak has not to do with those codes.
Those codes are pretty familiar, I'm sure you'll get thru those.
Major oil leak is serious stuff, need to isolate that first I think.

If the blue smoke is coming from the exhaust I would check the turbo for play.
If the compression is good it may be coming from the guides.

Compression on one was just under 400 and on three was 400. Wasn't threading into four and I couldn't et the gauge to fit on two. So I'm gonna say the head gasket is fine. After I got the injectors bleed (I think I got it done right) it will turn over and start but not stay running. Car is out of oil and don't wanna crack a fresh 5l jug so will continue tomorrow after I pickup a litre of cola. Also picking up the timing belt kit tomorrow and will see if I can borrow tools, if not I will order them.


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well it appears to of been an immobilizer problem causing the car to stop after running for a second or two. she runs fine now with no codes. It has new glow plugs. It does sound like its knocking though. I have some diesel purge and a new filter for it. will see what that does before I do the timing belt and front seals.

broke, no need for the gigantic huge photos

BobnOH said:

broke, no need for the gigantic huge photos

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Sorry my regular forum auto down sizes big photos. Not used to having to upload smaller.




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got the car back together and fired up and it sounds like it may have a case of rod knock. having a buddy come over tomorrow to check it out. Will probably end up dropping the oil pan to confirm a knocking rod. The drained oil isnt shimmering with metal so maybe it could be an injector problem. Seems to idle fine.

If it is infact knocking will a Auto ALH work or does it have to be manual?

If you mean an auto engine or parts, yes.
Try to get the injector pump, too. 10% upgrade.

flee said:

If you mean an auto engine or parts, yes.

Try to get the injector pump, too. 10% upgrade.

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Yea I found a whole thread on it. The guy has the engine listed for $850 complete with 194k kms and I offered $500 without the injectors or pump, but will try to get the pump too to make it easy, but I do have to get the $500 together.


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Major oil leak has reappeared. lol https://youtu.be/Mi8TPEhX7UM

To elaborate, everything is compatible, only some outboard components differ.

Got the new engine. Guy said it has 394k kms on it. Paid only $310. t is an auto so 11mm pump and turbo with a broken stud in it. He took the injectors out of it. It needs the rear main so will swap that out and reseal the bottom end. Should I be swapping out the oil pump Chain and tensioner while I'm In there?



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Yes and consider replacing the oil pump as well.
You won't miss the auto injectors.
Check the engine closely because it's better to replace any leaking gaskets now!

Will swap out the pump, chain, tensioner with the unit from pick n pull. That unit looks to of been in decent condition based on the tensioner I grabbed off it.



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Still need to pickup a few parts like the mount bolts and transmission seals. Should have it back together today or tomorrow depending on the condition of the clutch.


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Well it needs a clutch.




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why? ......those pressure plates come from the factory missing one finger.

Yeah they do come missing 1 fingers, have never really figured that out? If its got wear on it, replace while its out or swap it to the VR6/G60 style.

*** seriously. Well I gotta get a 9mm 12point socket to get it off and check how much meat is left.


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Well I'm gonna see what pnp has for me when I go grab that oilpump. The pressure plate and flywheel don't look too bad. Every 1.8t clutch I've done has looked 10x worse.

Guy I bought the used engine off said it smoked white when he ran it around the block before he tore it apart and swapped in a manual drivetrain. Could the belt being off have something to do with that? I got it turned over a few times so I could get the injector pump lock in and this is as close to level as I can get the cam. Still need to throw the flywheel/trans on to see if the crank is at tdc. I did also turn it around with the injectors loose and they got pushed up on all cylinders so that's a good sign. ?

maxmoo said:

www.tdiclub.com/articles/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf

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why was this posted? Ive done the belt already on the junk engine.

Well somone got to the clutch before me.



I did manage to get the oil pump stuff. And an oil feed as the one on both engines was overtorqued and seized to the fitting in the turbo. Had to just cut them off.


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Well I think I am going to pull the trigger on the Sachs K7003802F vr6/g60 kit. Rock auto has them for $351CAD+$50 shipping. with 5A% off comes to $378 for the clutch to outlast the car.