burpod
teh stallionz!!1
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2004
- Location
- cape cod, ma
- TDI
- 82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
just the other day i completed my install of the stanadyne fm-100 fuel filter with 5-micron 6" filter and mann inline pre-filter (~150-micron), similar to how SUNRG installed his (as found in http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=125520, and http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=60614). i wasn't able to have my digital camera on me at the time, so i couldn't take step-by-step pics of the install, but will post pics of the completed setup in the next week.
the optional items i installed were the side-load heater and clear water separation bowl. i would eventually like to get the fuel restriction gauge.
i mounted the fm-100 head/filter just in front and to the right of the oil filter, just behind the big radiator fan. the mann pre-filter i anchored in the empty area previously used by the stock fuel filter. the send/return lines to the pre-filter i routed around the outside of the coolant expansion tank. to mount the fm-100 head in that location, you need to grind away a bit of the metal lip near the hood latch to accomodate a two washers. (sorry for no pics at this time). drill two holes slightly larger than 1/4" - i used a 1/4" bit and rubbed the edges a bit to get some leeway room - to extend the fm-100 out far enough from the radiator fan, i simply tightened up 5 hex nuts along the bolt, as that was the cheapest and easiest solution (and seems to be totally solid and free of vibration after a few test runs).
here's the price breakdown, as i installed this setup.
fm-100 and components, ordered from http://www.reliableindustries.com :
-3/8" port head: $30 + shipping
-side-load heater: $40 + shipping
-clear bowl water separator: $27 + shipping
-5-micron filter: $14 + shipping
(total shipping for me was about $16)
clear blue biodiesel resistant fuel line hose from http://www.procycle.us/main/fuel_hose.htm :
-5/16" ID hose: $27+shipping for 25ft (i bought leftovers from SUNRG, enough for 2 installs). 25ft should be enough for 3 installs, so price for one: ~$10
if you only have one car to do, you can probably sell your leftovers somewhere along the line. i love the clear hose...
mann inline pre-filters from http://dieselgiant.com (tdiclub member Russell Parr):
-10 pack: ~$25 + shipping (these should last you a long, long time)
from the local hardware store or junk drawer:
-two 1/4" bolts, about 3" long, 6 washers, and 12 nuts: ~$3
from auto parts store:
-6 fuel hose clips : ~$2
from wherever (http://www.eldonjames.com located in CO iirc, sent me some free samples - as they have a minimum order of 50 - black nylon rated for any reasonable temp, like -50F to 250F iirc, should be fine for biodiesel):
-two 3/8" -> 5/16" NPT hose barbs
-zero, one or two 3/8" plugs (i only needed one, since the side-load heater took up the other port - you don't need any if you install heater and
restriction gauge)
total intial cost, wo/options: ~$105
total intial cost, w/options: ~$172
this may seem high, however, this includes ~$30 for 10 pre-filters, which i'm guessing should practically last a lifetime, and $40 + $27 for the two optional pieces. side-load heater though i would recommend for colder climates, based on what i know, though you probably could easily get by without it. i'm up in northern MN enough to want to have the reassurance, even if i do use anti-gel additives.
pitfalls i encountered:
- i initially installed the side-load heater in the outgoing port, not the incoming port. after realizing this (before priming), i swapped positions with the 3/8" plug. however, the side-load heater thread is metal, which when taken out, left little bits of ground off paint/tiny metal shavings in the fm-100 port threads! i did my best to carefully swab them out with a paper towel lightly soaked with power service. i think i got 95% of the particles, but my main worry of course, was contaminating the clean line!
- the 3/8" clips i got didn't fight real tight along a few of the connections, especially the outgoing tube from the mann pre-filter (the others being the clean/return to the engine). when priming using the PD lift pump, i had a decent leak going on here which i didn't notice right away. probably a few tablespoons... i fixed this connection with a screw-tight clip.
- i accidentally forgot to secure the clear-bowl water separator 100% before priming with the lift pump leading to a bunch of diesel spilling out from the bottom and onto my skidplate. not quite sure how much. but at least a few tablespoons... guessing about 5 before i realized so that's why the filter took so long to prime the reason why i had loosened the clear bowl water separator was because i read in the instruction sheet that you should apply a dab of oil to the thread which screws it on. but then i couldn't find my instruction sheet, said screw it, and then forgot i had loosened it. duh.
- to mount the fm-100 in that location, in order to get it to sit 100% vertical, you need to bend the metal that you attach it too. i used a paper towel (to minimize scraping) and a pair of larger pliers to bend it downward a bit.
- with the PD in-tank lift-pump, priming was easy. i ended up cycling the igntion about 40 times :O - unfortunately because of the leaks i didn't catch in time, it took longer than expected. i didn't cycle 40 times in a row, of course - didn't want to overheat anything if that is possible, so i took my time. my guess is that if you do it right (hopefuly my pitfalls will help eliminate this), it shouldn't take more than 30 cycles, probably more like 20ish. i was paranoid about air in the tandem pump, but turns out from pics i've seen, the tandem pump can accomodate for air bubbles, so i think you're safe as long as you prime it enough to have only a few small bubbles in the clean line, and something is coming out of the return line. i was overly paranoid, hence the many cycles. but even though i couldn't get all bubbles eliminated it still started up right away (perhaps 1/4 second longer than usual).
updates, things i forgot to mention, and pics to come soon...
edit - made some little edits/addtions. sorry for no pics at the time. but if you look at SUNRG's MANN prefilter thread you get the general idea. also, thanks to SUNRG and HermTDI for help on doing this.
the optional items i installed were the side-load heater and clear water separation bowl. i would eventually like to get the fuel restriction gauge.
i mounted the fm-100 head/filter just in front and to the right of the oil filter, just behind the big radiator fan. the mann pre-filter i anchored in the empty area previously used by the stock fuel filter. the send/return lines to the pre-filter i routed around the outside of the coolant expansion tank. to mount the fm-100 head in that location, you need to grind away a bit of the metal lip near the hood latch to accomodate a two washers. (sorry for no pics at this time). drill two holes slightly larger than 1/4" - i used a 1/4" bit and rubbed the edges a bit to get some leeway room - to extend the fm-100 out far enough from the radiator fan, i simply tightened up 5 hex nuts along the bolt, as that was the cheapest and easiest solution (and seems to be totally solid and free of vibration after a few test runs).
here's the price breakdown, as i installed this setup.
fm-100 and components, ordered from http://www.reliableindustries.com :
-3/8" port head: $30 + shipping
-side-load heater: $40 + shipping
-clear bowl water separator: $27 + shipping
-5-micron filter: $14 + shipping
(total shipping for me was about $16)
clear blue biodiesel resistant fuel line hose from http://www.procycle.us/main/fuel_hose.htm :
-5/16" ID hose: $27+shipping for 25ft (i bought leftovers from SUNRG, enough for 2 installs). 25ft should be enough for 3 installs, so price for one: ~$10
if you only have one car to do, you can probably sell your leftovers somewhere along the line. i love the clear hose...
mann inline pre-filters from http://dieselgiant.com (tdiclub member Russell Parr):
-10 pack: ~$25 + shipping (these should last you a long, long time)
from the local hardware store or junk drawer:
-two 1/4" bolts, about 3" long, 6 washers, and 12 nuts: ~$3
from auto parts store:
-6 fuel hose clips : ~$2
from wherever (http://www.eldonjames.com located in CO iirc, sent me some free samples - as they have a minimum order of 50 - black nylon rated for any reasonable temp, like -50F to 250F iirc, should be fine for biodiesel):
-two 3/8" -> 5/16" NPT hose barbs
-zero, one or two 3/8" plugs (i only needed one, since the side-load heater took up the other port - you don't need any if you install heater and
restriction gauge)
total intial cost, wo/options: ~$105
total intial cost, w/options: ~$172
this may seem high, however, this includes ~$30 for 10 pre-filters, which i'm guessing should practically last a lifetime, and $40 + $27 for the two optional pieces. side-load heater though i would recommend for colder climates, based on what i know, though you probably could easily get by without it. i'm up in northern MN enough to want to have the reassurance, even if i do use anti-gel additives.
pitfalls i encountered:
- i initially installed the side-load heater in the outgoing port, not the incoming port. after realizing this (before priming), i swapped positions with the 3/8" plug. however, the side-load heater thread is metal, which when taken out, left little bits of ground off paint/tiny metal shavings in the fm-100 port threads! i did my best to carefully swab them out with a paper towel lightly soaked with power service. i think i got 95% of the particles, but my main worry of course, was contaminating the clean line!
- the 3/8" clips i got didn't fight real tight along a few of the connections, especially the outgoing tube from the mann pre-filter (the others being the clean/return to the engine). when priming using the PD lift pump, i had a decent leak going on here which i didn't notice right away. probably a few tablespoons... i fixed this connection with a screw-tight clip.
- i accidentally forgot to secure the clear-bowl water separator 100% before priming with the lift pump leading to a bunch of diesel spilling out from the bottom and onto my skidplate. not quite sure how much. but at least a few tablespoons... guessing about 5 before i realized so that's why the filter took so long to prime the reason why i had loosened the clear bowl water separator was because i read in the instruction sheet that you should apply a dab of oil to the thread which screws it on. but then i couldn't find my instruction sheet, said screw it, and then forgot i had loosened it. duh.
- to mount the fm-100 in that location, in order to get it to sit 100% vertical, you need to bend the metal that you attach it too. i used a paper towel (to minimize scraping) and a pair of larger pliers to bend it downward a bit.
- with the PD in-tank lift-pump, priming was easy. i ended up cycling the igntion about 40 times :O - unfortunately because of the leaks i didn't catch in time, it took longer than expected. i didn't cycle 40 times in a row, of course - didn't want to overheat anything if that is possible, so i took my time. my guess is that if you do it right (hopefuly my pitfalls will help eliminate this), it shouldn't take more than 30 cycles, probably more like 20ish. i was paranoid about air in the tandem pump, but turns out from pics i've seen, the tandem pump can accomodate for air bubbles, so i think you're safe as long as you prime it enough to have only a few small bubbles in the clean line, and something is coming out of the return line. i was overly paranoid, hence the many cycles. but even though i couldn't get all bubbles eliminated it still started up right away (perhaps 1/4 second longer than usual).
updates, things i forgot to mention, and pics to come soon...
edit - made some little edits/addtions. sorry for no pics at the time. but if you look at SUNRG's MANN prefilter thread you get the general idea. also, thanks to SUNRG and HermTDI for help on doing this.
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