Car won't start troubleshooting

bugsbug

Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Location
U.S.
TDI
1.9 TDI beatle 05
2006 tdi beetle, no start trouble shooting, new thread I'm @#6

New thread. I got to the fuel filter line to engine, tank pump. I have fuel flow for 3 seconds. Still no start. Need help here on developing trouble shooting further. I have verified all fuses, with engine pictures (identity ) are good. What should my next step be? Temp. 90 degrees all bells and whistles function in cab except radio.
Thanks, Bugsbug. Love this site!
I've worked on tons of motors. But this is my 1st diesel. I paid $400. For it and really really want to drive. It! Thanks for the content & all your hard work!
Guy
 

Lenardsimp

New member
Joined
Sep 28, 2018
Location
CA
TDI
2005 Jetta Wagon
This helped me to troubleshoot (even though it turned out to be a completely different thing) - I signed up for the forum to add my experience, hopefully it helps someone else someday.

2005 TDI Jetta Wagon.

First symptom (though I didn't realize it was related until the end) was the traction control warning light started coming on.

A few days later, it wouldn't start. It turned over, but wouldn't catch. After a battery charge it started, so I assumed it just wasn't turning fast enough from a low battery. Same thing happened several times, but after replacing the battery, topping the new one off before installing, it still happened. Followed all the steps in this guide, and all the links from it. No power to the fuel pump. Checked fuses, relays, all good. Connections and ground at the ECU were totally clean.
VCDS indicated ECU connection fault to... the ABS.

Then I finally noticed it: the wire bundle going to the ECU goes past a corner of sheet metal, and it had rubbed the tape wrap away. One single wire had a tiny tiny tiny spot of its insulation worn away, so a sliver of copper was visible.
I looked up the wire color in my shop manual: ABS sensor.
Wrapped it in electrical tape, cut a plastic bottle to protect the wire bundle from the sheet metal edge...

Car started right up immediately. No fault codes. Been driving it a number of times, absolutely no hesitation on starting.

So that's what it was. Apparently if the ABS / traction control system has a fault too many times in a row, the ecu cuts power to the fuel lift pump. I haven't been able to find that fact written about anywhere in the shop manual or anywhere online.

TL;DR - if you have no power at the lift pump, but all the fuses, relays, and wiring is good, check for problems with the brake electronics.
 

Shawtm12

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Location
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
TDI
Golf '03 01M 200,000km/March 2014
Situation #5

What a wonderful thread!

I would like to add to it. I worked my way through all of this but to no avail.

What it ended up being was AIR TRAPPED INSIDE MY PUMP.

No amount of injection line cracking+turning the engine over got the air out. I was able to draw fuel through the filter to the pump. But the pump itself was not sucking any air. checked the electrical side of things. All was fine there.

I even unhooked both return and feed lines from the pump and placed the filter side of those lines in a jar of fuel and turned it over to see if the pump was sucking anything. It did not suck a damn drop.

but i digress....

Basically this came down to not priming the fuel pump correctly.

How i fixed the situation:

Unhooked the return line off of my fuel filter. (the line that connects the pump to the T fitting on my filter.)

I connected a vacuum hand pump to the return line.

ENSURE YOUR INJECTOR LINES ARE TIGHT FOR THIS.

I pumped and pumped and pumped until i finally got fuel (AND A BUTT LOAD OF AIR) to come out, until i saw a solid stream of fuel. This led me to believe that the seals inside the pump were fine (because if they werent, the amount of air would never have stopped).

Once i had a continuous flow of fuel, i clamped the line with vicegrips, removed my vacuum pump, hooked the line back up to the filter, removed the vicegrips, and she flashed right up like she was brand new.

Make sure youre priming your pump thoroughly before you rule out air in the pump.

Hope this helps someone because i was pretty close to forking over money for a new pump. Not to mention going bald from stress.

Happy dubbing!
 

Jakes

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2014
Location
WV
TDI
04 & 11 jetta, 14 passat
2004 jetta bew tdi will not start

1. just drove the car, visited a friend, while leaving turned on ignition dash lights came on and faded dead in about 3 seconds to include the clock; the engine will not turn over

2. Suspected the battery, removed battery and had it load tested. Results all cells good, 14.1 volts

3. Checked battery, fuses and connections in block above battery, followed the wires to the starter, no burnt wires or corrosion

4. reconnected battery and all lights came on bright but when I attempted to start the car, a repeat as listed in 1 above

5. suspected an immobilizer/dead fob, tried other fob, no help. After two tries, no lights, completely dead. Came back a few minutes later, back to as posted in 1 above

Stumped is an understatement. Thanks in advance.
 
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whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
14.1 volts? That is what I would expect while the engine is running. Have the battery load tested. Not tested with the little impedence readers the battery sellers use. Heck, just put your meter on the battery and read it as you try to start the engine. I'm betting it drops below 8 volts.

Sometimes batteries just give up the ghost with no warning.
 

Jakes

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2014
Location
WV
TDI
04 & 11 jetta, 14 passat
14.1 volts? That is what I would expect while the engine is running. Have the battery load tested. Not tested with the little impedence readers the battery sellers use. Heck, just put your meter on the battery and read it as you try to start the engine. I'm betting it drops below 8 volts.

Sometimes batteries just give up the ghost with no warning.
I had the battery load tested,out of the car, at Advance Auto in Fairmont, WV. They said it was good with no bad cells.I trailered the jetta to the dealer, their load test revealed a bad battery. Lots of time wasted and am at a loss to know what Advance did when they load tested the battery. Hopefully this does not repeat but your meter suggestion makes sense, thanks.
 
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SilverGhost

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Location
Back in So Flo - St Lucie
TDI
'05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
Last time I went to Advanced Auto they still do carbon pile test, no test for dead cell. Newer Midtronics testers are pretty good at catching defective batteries. Not perfect, but pretty good.

Jason
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Last time I went to Advanced Auto they still do carbon pile test, no test for dead cell. Newer Midtronics testers are pretty good at catching defective batteries. Not perfect, but pretty good.

Jason
Battery with dead cell will not show anywhere near 12 volts.
 

sc1500

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Location
Perth, WA
TDI
Mk 5 Golf 2.0 TDI
Hi guys...

Firstly, sincere apologies if I'm posting this in the wrong place and thank you for taking the time to read! Sorry for the ramble; I’ve tried to be a concise as possible to keep the thread short and minimal time spent and I didn’t want to omit details that might be clues to the expert eye.

I’m having real difficulty getting my Mk5 Golf 2.0L TDI started. I’m led to believe that diesels are ridiculously easy to start – you “just” need fuel, air and compression (not even working glow plugs unless it’s super cold? Note that I live in sunny Australia).

BACKGROUND:
The car had been driven solidly for years until a couple of months ago (when a replacement car was bought), since which time it was left on the driveway for a month, then driven without any issues perhaps 30 mins per week for a few weeks.
One day, I tried to start it, it made the usual cranking sounds (seemed like the starter was going at the usual frequency, though I haven’t measured this) but it just wouldn’t start. I tried several times without success, until the inevitable engine light and “STOP!”. It seemed as I imagine it would if there were no fuel present – all action but no actual start. It does sound as if the cranking frequency rises a little over the 10 second period.

DIAGNOSTICS:
My mechanic discovered engine fault codes. I bought an OBD tool, which identified an EGR Valve Insufficient Flow. I dismantled and carb-cleaned a very grotty EGR and ASV and cleared the codes, which are now permanently gone. I do get a brake pedal fault (unsure how that’s engine-related), but I can see that’s because the brake pedal is depressed so far that it does not engage with the switch actuator (normal/reasonable/relevant? "P0571 - Cruise/Brake Switch (A) Circ. Malfunction static").
The car has had dodgy electrics over the years (central locking, electric windows) so I’m concerned a loom is damaged somewhere which might cause the ECU controls to the engine electrics to fail – e.g. the injectors (do these need to be fully operational to start the car, or are they only necessary subsequently?)
Since the electric windows and central locking are dodgy, I’m surprised fault codes don’t currently show for those. When I last left the car the other day, the brake/rear lights remained on permanently after I’d locked up, with the headlights completely off – that’s a combination I’ve never seen before!
Finally, we did have routine issues when parked on a hill facing upwards, years ago – alternately toggling the key on/off I believe overcame the lame/depressurised fuel lift pump issue, and the car would then start just fine.
I visited this wonderful forum, which is totally stacked with info, and tried the "how-to" here but believe I exhausted all suggestions: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199398

AIR:
I have removed the inlet hose, placed a mirror beneath the now-exposed ASV and observe that before, during and after trying to start the vehicle, this valve (“butterfly”?) remains open throughout. Additionally, I’ve sprayed “Start Ya Bastard” (SYB) into the ASV (https://www.nulon.com.au/products/aerosols/start-ya-bastard-instant-engine-starter) Yes, I’m sure I’ll get decried as a heathen for doing such a thing, but I’m really not happy with a one-ton doorstop on my driveway and I'm clutching at straws here for clues. This stuff is supposed to be able to start pretty much any engine. Alas, while the cranking definitely sped up, almost to the point of starting, it still refused to actually start. That the ASV valve is open and SYB was clearly being drawn into the engine (because cranking frequency increased) suggests to me that air is not the issue (?).

FUEL:
I removed the fuel hose into the tandem pump from the fuel filter, stuck it in a cup and switched the ignition on – I got about 30ml of fuel in there, but this amount dropped off to *nothing* after repeating the key on/off a few times, which surprised me.
I know nothing of whether the fuel is correctly pressurised at/by the injectors, that the tandem pump is even working (or how to diagnose/what to inspect for). The diesel has been in the tank for at most 3 months. Removing the fuel filter lid (because I can’t get the hose off from the lift pump into the fuel filter) shows a steady 2-3 second flow from the lift pump every single time, so I assume that is working just fine, although I don’t know if the other 3 ports are causing an issue.
If fuel were the problem, SYB would surely have got the engine going, then the engine would have stalled after moving onto fuel. I have not yet drained and refilled the fuel filter with fresh diesel because of the above argument – I don’t see how SYB failed if bad fuel were the issue. I *have* tried to start with no filter medium at all, having filled the canister with diesel to minimise air. No improvement. If the injectors were the issue, I wouldn’t expect them all to fail simultaneously (instead expect lumpy/irregular or sub-optimal performance), nor for the OBD diagnostics to report no issue with them (please correct any weak assumptions/misunderstandings). I'm concerned that a dodgy ECU is not reporting its own failure in e.g. not driving the injectors or whatever else is electrically controlled during a start. I’ve tested the glow plugs – all 0.5 Ohm-ish.

COMPRESSION:
Removing the upper timing cover revealed that the crankshaft and belt are turning as I would expect, so I believe compression is good.

ADDITIONAL:
I’ve tested all fuses and relays in the engine fuse box. I’ve only become aware of the fuses/relays beneath the steering column since returning my friend’s multi-meter – need I check these also?

My mechanic did remark several years ago that the reason our car has *always* had to turn over at least 4 or 5 times to get started is because the very early Mk 5 2.0L TDI (late 2004 manufacture) has an underrated starter motor – I don’t know if this is making a contribution or totally irrelevant.

I’ve used this site lots over the years – thank you all so much for your contributions – you’ve saved me perhaps $thousands all up.

Sean.
 

SilverGhost

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Location
Back in So Flo - St Lucie
TDI
'05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
Sean

first - is your engine a PD or CR TDI? Us Yanks never got the MkV TDI Golf.

Did you ever sort your lift pump issues? A failing lift pump may cause some of the issues you described. Lift pump should deliver a couple PSI (about right for a carburetored engine).

The mechanical tandem pump may have failed. This will then cause injectors to not receive enough pressure to operate. On PD TDI the tandem pump has a port to check pressure.

Fuel filter assembly has a return built in. Not sure if this is why you only got 30mL and dropped to nothing. Side note - ECM won't always cycle the fuel pump on every key cycle. It knows to prime the system, but doesn't need to run pump unless engine is cranking/running. So sometimes it will run first key cycle and not after, unless you open the door or spin the starter. Just a tid bit to confuse your diagnosis.

Is SYB same as plain ether or extra additives? I have found plain ether works best for the purpose of a starting aid. I have used something like that here and Diesel engine would not fire off it, but the plain ether worked fine.

Jason
 

sc1500

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Location
Perth, WA
TDI
Mk 5 Golf 2.0 TDI
SilverGhost - thanks for your help!

My engine code is BKD, which I'm assured makes it a PD (https://www.racechip.com/distinguishing-cr-pd.html).

The lift pump issues were never explicitly resolved - we resigned to a few extra ignition on/off cycles when foolish enough to have forgotten to park facing *downhill* rather than up. We then moved to another property with no hill starts required. I don't believe the issue is the lift pump, though, because when I turn on the ignition, I get a steady "firm" flow of fuel into the fuel filter lid for 2-3 seconds, just as suggested should happen here:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199398
("Once the hoses are off cycle the key to on and you should get fuel out of the hose for about two or three seconds. "). Note though that this is *into* the fuel filter; out to the tandem pump is where the fuel keeps dropping off each on/off cycle until after 3 attempts nothing at all. I don't understand this behaviour, although there are now more hoses with potentially a lot of air in them in that scenario(?)

I guess I ultimately need to determine the pressure into the injectors, though I can't find anything on "cracking" them on the Mk5 - is this perhaps down to the PD (CR had a nut for each injector, maybe?). A MityVac is in the post to allow me to purge any air the system - is it true that without doing this first, the car will simply never start, regardless of any underlying issue (and if I'm lucky, air in the system is actually the issue itself)? And once I've removed a hose, there will be air in the system.

The SYB safety sheet identifies components "naphtha petroleum", dimethyl ether, diethyl ether, hydroquinone, so, no, I don't reckon it's pure ether - I'll perhaps source a true ether to eliminate compression/air(?).

PD Tandem Pump pressure port - perfect, thank you! I'll check this if I can get a gauge and hoses up to the job (115psi is just a number to me - do I need expensive equipment/gauges to handle this kind of pressure?)

BobnOH - thank you. I didn't test the tandem pump, though - I was wondering if dismantling it would reveal anything obvious or if I'd need proper equipment to eliminate it as the cause.
 

sc1500

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Location
Perth, WA
TDI
Mk 5 Golf 2.0 TDI
Having stumbled on this wonderful thread: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=274730, it appears that, since I have a lift pump, my fuel system is under pressure, not vacuum, so I shouldn't need to bleed the air out of the lines with an e.g. MityVac (or Gatorade bottle :D), as the lift pump will displace it for me. So, if air in the system were an issue, several on/off ignition cycles should get fuel to the injectors (if the tandem pump is working - or does it not even play a role in getting the car started?)? If this understanding is incorrect and I *do* need to bleed the system, I guess I need the closest point to the injectors (though I have the PD engine, so there's nothing to "crack", unfortunately) Where is this location on my vehicle?

Thank you!
 

SilverGhost

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Location
Back in So Flo - St Lucie
TDI
'05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
No, car will absolutely NEED the tandem pump to even start. I believe it should be minimum 7bar idle and rises with RPM, quickly going above 10 bar. Need to look up exact specs and test sheet for sure. I have seen a couple fail because the lift pump failed and starved the tandem of fuel.

The lift pump is more about volume than pressure. I wonder if you have a wonky thermo valve in the fuel filter that is dumping the fuel back to the tank? Reliably getting fuel at filter, but not to transfer pump - I would like to know why. There could also be a check valve in one of the hoses that could be sticking or gummed up?

No cracking the injectors on a PD. AND DEFINITELY NOT ON A COMMON RAIL!!!! That can kill you! VW put safe guards in their CR so rail pressure bleeds off when the engine is stopped. The pressure in the older VE engines is low enough that with a little common sense you can crank and bleed the injectors.

BTW - I have gotten a TDI to run on silicon spray for several minutes on an older car while trying to bleed a bastard air bubble. I guess it's just the propellant that is burning and at much slower rate than ether.

Jason
 

sc1500

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Location
Perth, WA
TDI
Mk 5 Golf 2.0 TDI
Thanks Jason. :)

Firstly, I'm hoping I've been stupid here - there is *always* an engine fault since the car wouldn't start, but I neglected it because it refers to the cruise control/brake switch "P0571-static". Is it the case (as I would, now I reflect on it, hope/expect) that for *any* engine fault, regardless of how it may or may not prevent the engine from starting/do damage etc., the ECU disables some/all electrics that would be necessary to start the car (this would have to be between tandem pump and injectors, as the lift pump seems to be ok)? If this is the case, my engine may be mechanically just fine, only needing this brake pedal switch replaced (I dismantled it, though, and it's the most basic thing ever - can't see how it'd go wrong - I more likely suspect the electrics from the switch back to the ECU :eek:)

I have no idea if this is relevant/helpful but I did the "suck a pipe through a gatorade bottle" trick on the return from the tandem pump to the fuel filter. There is now fuel in the bottle, but the system loop is obviously broken since I've interrupted the tandem pump return line. I probably should not have tried to start the engine, but I did out of curiosity, and the revs were definitely much higher now, like on the cusp of starting, but still no starting. Drawing fuel manually back to the fuel filter has definitely "improved" its attempt to start.

By placing my hand over the exposed ASV I can feel a definite draught into the engine - no idea if it's sufficient but there *is* air flowing.

When the MityVac arrives (or perhaps with the Gatorade bottle), how will/do I prime my fuel system and purge all air without being able to crack the injectors? Do I need to if I have a lift pump, which makes it a pressurised (not vacuumed) system?
 

sc1500

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Location
Perth, WA
TDI
Mk 5 Golf 2.0 TDI
Ok, so I've ruled out the "any engine fault will prevent a start" hypothesis by fixing the (actually) broken brake light switch, observing the brake lights now behave appropriately to this switch, clearing the fault and ensuring it remains cleared - no Engine faults remain.

After drawing the fuel back from the tandem pump, through the Gatorade bottle, I re-connected the hose to the fuel filter, tried to start the car and it behaved very oddly. At first it sounded close to starting. Then I heard some pretty expensive-sounding cracking sounds (timing belt is near-new - no teeth skipped), then it returned to the usual "trying but failing" fairly regular cranking sound.
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Ok, so I've ruled out the "any engine fault will prevent a start" hypothesis by.................snip.................
Yea that's nutty. No engine code that I've heard off will prevent a start. There are a couple that will indicate a problem which will prevent start, subtle difference.
 

SilverGhost

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Location
Back in So Flo - St Lucie
TDI
'05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
Hmm, how many km on this engine? PD all had cam shaft issues.

Scary expensive cracking noises are never welcome. Might want to actually manually verify mechanical timing is actually correct.

Jason
 

JABGolf

New member
Joined
Sep 30, 2018
Location
New Fairfield, CT
TDI
2003 Golf TDI
1st post John - New Fairfield
2003 Golf TDI The car was running.
Noticed the stereo not working, electric trunk: some misc. electronics not working. Checked the fuses drivers side panel and noticed not getting power to some of the fuses. Loosen the 2 screws to the fuse box, and while I was removing it, must of accidentally bumped the main power feed wire to the metal. I didn't see any corrosion. Looked clean. installed it back in. Then I noticed during the process that a 50A flat fuse link on top of the battery blew. I' m assuming that it happened when I took the box out to look at it. Replaced the 50A on top of the battery.
*Car cranks but won't start.*
Fuse did not blow again either. Glow plug and engine light do not come on. Replaced the 109. jumped the fuel stop valve. I heard it open when i put power to it. tried to start - cranked but no fire.
tried to jump the main power on the glow plug relay to 87, still no glow or engine light. No power to some of the fuses on the panel that i had before. Checked all grounds-block, under battery, ECU,under steering column, looked for chafed wires in the wire loom in the starter region going to the glow plug circuit. Tachometer does not move when cranking. took out the comfort control module, opened it up - looked brand new and clean-reinstalled.

I'm at a stand still.

The car has stage 4 ECU from Rocket Chip, Injen air intake
EGR delete, Bigger injectors, 15 Turbo, Turbo back 2 1/2 Exhaust
Just did the timing belt, water pump, stretch bolts.
I replaced alternator and wiring harness, but the real problem was the 4 plug near the battery for the wiring harness had a broken wire.

Any Ideas? Thank you for your time and help in advance.
 

jsrmonster

Veteran Member - TDIClub Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Location
Red Lion, PA
TDI
15 Golf SW DSG, RC3 piped, 99.5 Jetta Rocket PD150 6spd 4motion, 2000 ASV110 RC6 "Silverbullet" 5spd Race Car, 2003.5 Cummins QCLB 4x4 "Blue Monster" Jeep CRD juiced, MB Sprinter van juiced up
If your glow plug icon does not flash on once when key is turned ecu is not booting.
No boot = no start usually dead/fried ecu. Send ecu to me to test.
 

JABGolf

New member
Joined
Sep 30, 2018
Location
New Fairfield, CT
TDI
2003 Golf TDI
Ok , it is not a problem with the ECU. Jeff tested it and it is good. Now I guess I have to learn how to read a wiring diagram, test voltage and grounds....
 

Rookie19

New member
Joined
Mar 31, 2019
Location
Montana
TDI
2001 Jetta
2001 Jetta won't start SOMETIMES.

Good evening all, I'm new to this forum and new to the TDI world. Having starting issues with a 2001 Jetta sometimes. The car has 184000 miles, timing belt replaced at 110000 miles. The injection pump was recently replaced with a remanufactured pump. The car starts good normally. The issue seems to be after the car is parked for an hour or so. The engine is warm enough that the glow plug light only comes on for about a second. Start cranking and it will fire die fire die, give it some throttle and keep cranking it will eventually try to run without the starter cranking. I then hold it to the floor while it rattles and bangs, blowing white/blue smoke like crazy. It eventually clears out ( or dies, then you start over ) and runs fine. Seems to start fine after being shut off for 15/20 minutes, or the next morning or after work. When it has this issue it reminds me of a flooded gasser. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

SilverGhost

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Location
Back in So Flo - St Lucie
TDI
'05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
@Rookie19 - just shooting from the hip here, but first thought is leaking injector nozzles. Takes a while for the drip on a warm nozzle to puddle enough to start hard and smoke, but sitting overnight the fuel drains past the rings?? Or could be needle lift or temperture sensor lying and causing too much fuel on restart?

Hopefully a few more guys with waaaaay more first hand time on this engine will chime in, soon.

Jason
 

whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
Good evening all, I'm new to this forum and new to the TDI world. Having starting issues with a 2001 Jetta sometimes. The car has 184000 miles, timing belt replaced at 110000 miles. The injection pump was recently replaced with a remanufactured pump. The car starts good normally. The issue seems to be after the car is parked for an hour or so. The engine is warm enough that the glow plug light only comes on for about a second. Start cranking and it will fire die fire die, give it some throttle and keep cranking it will eventually try to run without the starter cranking. I then hold it to the floor while it rattles and bangs, blowing white/blue smoke like crazy. It eventually clears out ( or dies, then you start over ) and runs fine. Seems to start fine after being shut off for 15/20 minutes, or the next morning or after work. When it has this issue it reminds me of a flooded gasser. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would use a scanner and look at reported coolant temp before starting. Disregard what the gauge tells you because it wont tell you what the engine side of the ECU is seeing.

Next would be to shut it down and clamp both fuel lines between the tank and the filter. when you go out to start it, remember to remove the clamps. This will tell you if the pump or filter is leaking down.
 

k0wtz

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Location
MO
TDI
1998
my solution

First I admit I don't know much but my solution to this non-starting thing after a fuel filter change was hook a chain on it and pull it for a bit. It started right up I had worked on it for 2 hours trying to get it to start!

This worked for me might not work for you!
 

Tankthecarman

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2017
Location
United States
TDI
2001 Jetta ALH TDI 5spd
I had a ton of issues with my daughter’s New Beetle. She bought it as a non-runner with such a massive fuel leak it quit running on the previous owner...luckily it didn’t catch on fire. I got the car home, resealed the pump and got caught by the noob issue of being out of the alignment hole on the injection pump and Pulley. Got that all straightened out and then I had it running like a top. I was exceptionally pleased, until I went out to start it to take it for a new set of tires and it wouldn’t start at all. I was despondent to say the least.I asked on here and got tons of thoughts and suggestions. Everything from I needed to have someone who knows what they’re doing reseal the pump to replacing o-rings in the fuel filter b/c they are known to suck air. I considered all of them and tried most...but I didn’t want to give up and take it somewhere. I watched a YouTube video about Relay 109 and VIOLA! Car is 100% fixed. It seems 109 controls both the fuel shut-off solenoid and glow plugs. So, if you have a similar issue, at least consider Relay 109 b4 you pull the injection pump again and completely reseal it AGAIN! :)
 
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