Bigger torque wrench

silverstick

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I've had a couple of these. They work fine for awhile, you have to remember to set them back to the lowest setting or else they become inaccurate quickly. If you drop em, the plastic dial will break easily. If you're using it often, fork over the money for the next one up, or a nice digital unit from Matco or Strap-on. I haven't tried the new Crapsman digital one but it looks sweet. If you have a friend who is in tech school or college, they can get you a killer discount on Matco tools, up to 50% off. That's how I got my last torque wrench -

-Cheers
 

Lug_Nut

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Sterling, Massachusetts. USA
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idi: 1988 Bolens DGT1700H, the other oil burner: 1967 Saab Sonett II two stroke
My Sears torque wrench is 1/2 inch drive. I reduce down to 3/8 when needed. No problems in the 10~15 years I've had it EXCEPT, I broke a ratchet head and got a lifetime replacement.
The torque guts in the handle are NOT part of the Craftsman lifetime warranty, but because my break was in the ratchet head I was given a replacement head kit free.
The accuracy is apparently OK as I'll occasionally check it and my other two (3/8 click and 3/8 bending beam) against each other at some value within the range of all three. Each are still within a fraction of each other. Unless all three are out of accuracy, and by the same amount, and in the same direction, I think they are all good.
 

lkchris

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Albuquerque, NM, USA
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2003 New Beetle
The best are Stahlwille, which are sold through both the VW and Mercedes special tools programs.

No requirement to zero every time
No problem removing nuts with this wrench
Turn the head over to torque for right-hand threads

Life is too short to own cheap tools.
 

FlyTDI Guy

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Nov 3, 2001
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PNW
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'01 Jetta GLS
Be advised, the one you're looking at is rated in INCH Lbs... not FOOT Lbs. Your whopping 250 now becomes 20.8 ft/lbs.
 

dbhyslop

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Mar 9, 2008
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Warwick, RI
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2002 Jetta TDI
lkchris said:
The best are Stahlwille, which are sold through both the VW and Mercedes special tools programs.

No requirement to zero every time
No problem removing nuts with this wrench
Turn the head over to torque for right-hand threads

Life is too short to own cheap tools.

Isn't the store-at-zero requirement due to the physics of spring fatigue, independent of the quality of the torque wrench?

Dan
 

Number6

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Location
Madison, Wisconsin
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98 Jetta
FlyTDI Guy said:
Be advised, the one you're looking at is rated in INCH Lbs... not FOOT Lbs. Your whopping 250 now becomes 20.8 ft/lbs.
LOL, yeah, I was gonna say that 3/8 drive and 250 FOOT-lbs don't seem to go together. I just recently picked up a nice used K-D model 2952, 1/2 drive 25-250 ft-lbs for about $40 on ebay ... I needed it to torque the front axle nut and other things that were at or above the limit of my cheapo one. I like it -- easy to set, fine-tooth ratchet, well built.

(Edited: K-D, not S-K )
 
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iamstuffed

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2005 Golf GLS TDI Blue Anthracite
Harborfreight sells an SK 1/2" drive torque wrench, 25-250 ftlbs, for $109.99. That seems decent enough.
 

T_D_I_POWER

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Mine is the old 1/2" drive Sears Craftsman turn the dial handle mechanical locking type torque wrench with 250 Lb.Ft max. torque capacity. Unless you're a professional mechanic by profession there's no need to have the best of everything. Remember though, mechanics get to write off their business expenses.

Torque is always measured in Pound Foot, since Torque=(Force)(distance)= F x d = Lb.Ft not Foot Pound

International unit (SI) for Torque is Nm (Newton meter) not mN

If you have a piece of steel tubing lying around you can use this as an extension tube to increase the torque capacity. Mine is a 6 & 12 ft piece of shiny chrome tubings from a swing set. This tubing fits nicely inside the handle. Each tubing, I marked 1' apart for the torque multiplication. So there's no need to get another set of torque wrench with higher torque capacity. If I were you I would keep the money. What you have is sufficient enough.

Here's how it works. Suppose that you need to torque a bolt to 300 lb.ft. Your torque wrench max. capacity is 250 lb.ft.
So, set the the torque wrench at 150 lb.ft mark and lock it. Insert the tubing, and grab at the 2 ft mark. As the handle is turned, this will give 300 lb.ft of torque.

You can, always do a bolt torque testing. Set the torque wrench to 50 lb.ft. Then grab the extension tube at the 2 ft mark. This should torque the bolt to 100 lb.ft. Now, the reverse should be true, set the torque wrench to 100 lb.ft., you should be able to torque the bolt by the same amount of torque value.
 
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Lug_Nut

TDIClub Enthusiast, Pre-Forum Veteran Member
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Sterling, Massachusetts. USA
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idi: 1988 Bolens DGT1700H, the other oil burner: 1967 Saab Sonett II two stroke
I'm confused.
You fit the tubing "nicely inside the handle."?

If you mean that you use the tubing on the outside of the wrench handle as a handle extender, then you haven't increased the torque, you've decreased the number of pounds by which your hand has to pull by the same factor as the handle is 'lengthened'.
i.e. 250 lb at 1 foot is exactly the same as 125 lb at 2 feet. The wrench setting of 250 will click when the fastener reaches 250 regardless of how long the handle is.

On the other hand, increasing the wrench HEAD distance from the fastener WILL change the setting to obtain some torque value. Using a ficticious 12 inch offset or 'crow's foot' attachment on the torque wrench will permit dialing down the setting number because the lateral distance of the torque wrench head to the fastener will compensate for the lower set value.
 

PDJetta

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'04 Jetta GLS TDI Pumpe Duce Platinum Grey w/ Leather
silverstick said:
Anyone had experience with Sears Craftsman Microtork torque wrenches?

I have only one torque wrench, an SK that I'm happy with. But at 10-100 ft-lbs, it's obviously too light for some jobs.

I have a coupon to get the Sears 25-250 ft-lb Microtork (link below) for $60, instead of the usual retail of $80. It's a 3/8 drive, and I have a 1/2-inch coupler. What do you think?

Thanks.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944593000P?keyword=craftsman+microtork+torque+wrench#descriptionAnchor
Those are the ones I have. I have three different Microtorques to cover all of the ranges I need for automotive work. They seem fine for general purpose auto repair. They see occassional use. If I was a professional mechanic, I probally would use a professional grade (SK maybe). Two of the Microtorques I have had since about 1985 -1990, and have been trouble free but I think they should be recalibrated. I think one of them applies too much torque. Sears is absolutely no help in this area.

The third I bought a couple of years ago and its range is right in between the first two I bought. It has an issue with having a real rough ratchety feel on its torque adjuster on the handle, and its difficult to turn. That way from day 1, but since it gets so little use I never returned it. It seems to work fine torque-wise, though.

I would review all of the online ratings for the Microtorque.

But otherwise, for the price I think its a good deal. Just remember to turn the torque setting to the lowest setting when finished using the wrench.

--Nate
 
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roadhard1960

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Covington, Ga.
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2003 Jetta wagon GLS 5 speed
If I have to do high torque like axle nuts on a 66 Beetle I do some math. I weigh 130 pounds. (weight 30 years ago) I get a 3/4" ratchet or breaker bar. I support the ratchet head with a floor jack. I add a 3' extension tube to the ratchet and I stand on the end of the pipe. Trying to apply a lot of torque using an extension pipe is a recipe for blowing up the ratchet head. That is why I start with a heavy duty 3/4" ratchet. If I were big and strong I could probably could apply as much torque as I can by standing on the ratchet with a cheater pipe.

Just sticking an extension on a torque wrench does not give it a measurable increase in torque. Yes you can apply more torque, break the adjustment handle if it is plastic, break the head. If you insert a pipe inside the wrench and have not stuck it in too far to screw up the clicking or beam all you are doing is applying 50lb/ft at the end of your persuader to get the clicker to react to 100lb/ft. I guess I would have to see a video of your extensions but it defies my limited understanding of physics.

They also make torque multipliers so when you have to do big numbers like 400-600 pound/feet on your tractor you use your little 150 lb/ft torque wrench and 4x torque multiplier.
 

silverstick

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'02 Jetta GLS (160K miles), and '05 Jetta GLS wagon (120K)
FlyTDI Guy said:
Be advised, the one you're looking at is rated in INCH Lbs... not FOOT Lbs. Your whopping 250 now becomes 20.8 ft/lbs.
OMG! I guess it would be great for tightening down the screw on, say, an eyeglass frame. Thanks.

Chittychittybangbang signaled me about his FAQ on torque wrenches (below), which is very thorough. Many thanks to all, and to Chitty especially.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/torquewrenchFAQ.htm
 

Powder Hound

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For really heavy torque values, such as axle nuts, you can get a 1/2" drive unit from Autozone or Harbor Freight that isn't terribly expensive and will get the job done. IMO, for something like that, if it is off 5% and you are going for 120 ft-lbs, that much error won't amount to anything.
 

Ski in NC

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Wilmington, NC USA
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2001 Jetta ALH 5sp stock
I have a craftsman torque wrench (up to 250 ft lb) that has the little plastic magnifying window in the handle that picks up the torque numbers off the scroll. The handle moves on the shaft, which makes the window maginify some OTHER number. Not good. I have to cross check it with a beam type each time I use it. Some engines I work on have I think 28 head bolts. So it gets used.
 

gforce1108

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04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
I have both a Craftsman and a S&K. The S&K is much nicer... Take a look at the reviews on the sears website at all of the complaints with their torque wrenches. The locking mechanism seems to fail often (mine crapped out for a while and started working again?).

Sears carries S&K also, but not in the store (at least the one near me). The local tool supply place had them much cheaper than sears.
 

Number6

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Mar 30, 2007
Location
Madison, Wisconsin
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98 Jetta
Powder Hound said:
For really heavy torque values, such as axle nuts, you can get a 1/2" drive unit from Autozone or Harbor Freight that isn't terribly expensive and will get the job done. IMO, for something like that, if it is off 5% and you are going for 120 ft-lbs, that much error won't amount to anything.
The axle nut on my 98 Jetta has a specified torque of 195 ft-lbs.

I agree you'd better not put an extension on the handle of a torque wrench; it's made to measure torque whether you grab it from 1 inch out from the head or at the end of the handle. All putting an extension on it will do is make it easier for you to reach a specified torque value.
 
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