Has anyone replaced subframe bushings?

02DslPwr

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Leander Texas
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2002 Jetta Wagon, TDI
They aren't something you do by themselves. You have to remove or mostly disassemble the front suspension, so replace everything you can while you're in there.

They're not hard though. Lower the subframe and pry the old bushing out with a screw driver. Insert new bushing halves and they get pressed together when you tighten the subframe.

I can't comment on what they do by themselves. I replaced everything in my signature (suspension-wise) all at once on a 125,000 mile suspension with torn CA bushings, so the difference was unreal.
 
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Tom W.

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mash-up GettaTDI150, 1986 Jetta Delux D, 2005 Passat TDI sedan
bushings-

They aren't something you do by themselves. You have to remove or mostly disassemble the front suspension, so replace everything you can while you're in there.

They're not hard though. Lower the subframe and pry the old bushing out with a screw driver. Insert new bushing halves and they get pressed together when you tighten the subframe.

I cant comment on what they do by themselvesw. I replaced everything in my signature (suspension-wise) all at once on a 125,000 mile suspension with torn CA bushings, so the difference was unreal.
How many hours did you put into replacing the bushings?
 

davebugs

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2001 Golf TDI Automatic, MKIV rear axle bushing install tools
I took the easy(quick) way out.

Bought new Mehle LCA's with those already in them, new Ball Joints, new end links.

Also did strut mount & bushings, sway bar bushings.

And rear axle beam bushings.

Hope to be good for another 200k.

I did it to have a quick turn around.

Infact I kept the OEM LCA's should I need to press more bushings in I can have that done at my leisure. Or if anyone local needs them to do the same thing.
 

02DslPwr

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Leander Texas
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2002 Jetta Wagon, TDI
How many hours did you put into replacing the bushings?
Once you're there, about an hour or two of prying and cussing. You'll destroy them getting them out. At least I did.

Getting there is the laborious part. Having done it twice now, I could be at the subframe bushings in an hour or two. Having the right tools will help. Before I did it the first time, I bought a Dewalt cordless impact wrench good for 300ft/lbs. Saved me LOADS of time and energy. No ratcheting, just clak, clak, zing! and the bolt's off.

Once they're out, just slap the new ones back in their place and tighten everything back up. You may want to get new bolts as the subframe bolts are TTY, 1-time use.
 

02DslPwr

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I took the easy(quick) way out.

Bought new Mehle LCA's with those already in them, new Ball Joints, new end links.
These don't come in the LCAs. These are subframe bushings. You're thinking of the Audi TT LCA bushes. No one sells LCAs new with the TT bush unless you get a new Audi TT LCA. A few places are starting to sell used/repainted LCAs with the TT bushes in them already.

I would love to have an extra set of LCAs around. Definitely a time saver.

$200+bolts for what you get is a lot. The regular SF bushings are very very stiff. I don't know how much difference these would make on an otherwise stock car.
 

dieselfuel

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ohio
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2003 Jetta TDI
Actually, $165 gets you new genuine Audi TTsubframe bushings from Audi. And, $400 for the genuine Audi TT LCAs.

So, for $565, you can have genuine Audi parts.

I'm not sure why aftermarket TT subframe bushings cost $207. They should be half that, imo.
 

02DslPwr

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Where do these go? Someone thought they replaced it when they did the front suspension, someone else says no...

Curious George
Hold on guys, we're now talking about two totally different sets of bushings. Control Arm bushings and subframe bushings. The OP was asking about Subframe bushings, then davebugs brought up Control Arm bushings. Dave may have been a tad confused as to what the OP was asking. But no big deal. :)

The Audi TT Control Arm bushings will wear prematurely if they are't installed correctly. My last set lasted ~80k, but I know the weren't tightened down with weight on the car. This last time, I did tighten with weight on them, so hopefully they will last longer.

Subframe bushings are far less common to replace. I've never heard of anyone replacing them because they are worn. May have happened, I just haven't seen/heard about it. They are usually replaced with the TT version for increased stiffness. I suppose they are generally seen as too expensive for what you get.

So, to answer chromeBuddha's question, yes, the Control Arm bushings are replaced all the time with TT bushings. Subframe bushings are 6x the price and rarely replaced. The Subframe bushings are located in between the subframe and the chassis of the car. They dont get to flex much. The Control Arm bushings are, obviously, in the control arm. Control arm bushings flex constantly and far more than the subframe bushings. Therefore, they wear faster.
 
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ShrentTDI

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2000 Jetta GLS TDI 5 speed
Gonna have to bring this thread back from the dead, thinking I shave subframe issues. I have new arms and bushings and new balljoints,new shocks and mounts, new sway bushings and the links are good, good tie rods, brakes are tight. Now, here's the problem: If I launch the car and hit second perfectly with amazing boost (22lbs with a vnt15 stage 3 Malone) as soon as I let clutch out the front clunks really hard. It's also happen when I had to emergency brake at 60mph and had to lock them up till abs kicked on and the car clunked again like the whole assembly underneath shifted? Any thoughts on what to do?
 

kwong7

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Mar 25, 2004
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Southern Caifornia
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2001 Golf GLS TDI / White
I took the easy(quick) way out.

Bought new Mehle LCA's with those already in them, new Ball Joints, new end links.

Also did strut mount & bushings, sway bar bushings.

And rear axle beam bushings.

Hope to be good for another 200k.

I did it to have a quick turn around.

Infact I kept the OEM LCA's should I need to press more bushings in I can have that done at my leisure. Or if anyone local needs them to do the same thing.
I did just about the same thing except my trusty indy mechanic did all the work in 3 hours. I replaced the control arm bushings with the R32/TT rear bushing and replaced the rear axle beam bushing with an Energy Suspension Poly bushing (the sandwich kind). My rear axle beam bushings looked fine (they were the metal sleeve version), but the rear feels so much tighter and less clunky. Typically you want to avoid polyurethane parts on a diesel with pivoting points, but this should be a no-brainer. I can't think of downside and will see if they hopefully last longer than the OE.
 

turbovan+tdi

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I can't think of downside and will see if they hopefully last longer than the OE.
They usually don't last as long unless there is some way to grease them during normal use.
 

PakProtector

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Mk.4's and the Cummins
Gents, the LCA bushings do not need to have to be weighted before torqueing them. They are single position; the center part gets fixed to the subframe, and the control arm side moves with the control arm. The amount of flex in them is entirely depending on where the suspension rests. The front LCA bushing might want torqued whilst loaded, but IMO it will just move a bit to a comfy spot even if you torque it under full droop( the car up in the air).

And now whilst searching for TT subframe bushing info, I have brought another back from the dead...LOL
Not sure where any of these bushings get greased either( save for aftermarket rear LCA like the Powerflex spherical ball types, and same goes for real poly bushings).
cheers,
Douglas
 
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pkhoury

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2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
Gotta love bringing back old threads from the dead. I get to do the same, because I came for information on subframe bushings. The dealer that the previous owner of my Golf went to clearly used an impact, as I lost both internally welded nuts that hold the horizontal bolt on the LCAs, which means new or used subframe time. I have a used one on a parts car, but I don't know how the bushings look. It has some surface rust, but nothing crazy I don't think.
 

ghohouston

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Apr 2, 2013
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Lewisville, Texas
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2001 Jetta Sedan TDI 5 Speed
I have a feeling mine are shot on my 01. I've literally replaced every motor and trans mount (and heli coiled them)struts, strut mounts, ball joints, dog bone, lca's both front and rear position, want over everything under the hood checking for noises/ movement, etc. and can't find anything causing the front end noise. I've replaced everything short of the radiator mounts, steering rack mount, and subframe bushings.
 

Fahrvegnugen

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Burlington Vt
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01 golf 1.9 alh gls silver
G, what’s the noise? I did similarly and when the weather gets warm I hear a slight clunk on slow speed deceleration.
 

ghohouston

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Apr 2, 2013
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Lewisville, Texas
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2001 Jetta Sedan TDI 5 Speed
Going over bumps, small and large, always there. Like a minor knocking. I'm an experienced mechanic by trade of over 10 years, so definitely feel that I'vegone over everything with a fine toothed comb as far as possible noise makers. I do know my radiator mounts are shot too, but when I found that, I secured the cooler package with more hardware and can't move it by hand like I used to, so I feel thats not the source. I've done swaybar bushings too. Noise. Still. There. I love this car, but that noise drives me nuts. My first 01 didn't have this issue, and it was a twin to the current one minus leather interior. Idk what the previous owner did to this car, but definitely didn't take care of it. Multiple fasteners were missing from the condenser/ radiator, interior shot, etc. I've re torqued the subframe bolts too, no change. I really wish I would have taken the good stuff out of this one and sold it, and not the other one.
 
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Poor King

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Going over bumps, small and large, always there. Like a minor knocking. I'm an experienced mechanic by trade of over 10 years, so definitely feel that I'vegone over everything with a fine toothed comb as far as possible noise makers. I do know my radiator mounts are shot too, but when I found that, I secured the cooler package with more hardware and can't move it by hand like I used to, so I feel thats not the source. I've done swaybar bushings too. Noise. Still. There. I love this car, but that noise drives me nuts. My first 01 didn't have this issue, and it was a twin to the current one minus leather interior. Idk what the previous owner did to this car, but definitely didn't take care of it. Multiple fasteners were missing from the condenser/ radiator, interior shot, etc. I've re torqued the subframe bolts too, no change. I really wish I would have taken the good stuff out of this one and sold it, and not the other one.
Sometimes new parts just come off the shelf defective due to age or improper storage. At my age I no longer have the patience to go and recheck every part you have changed. I would have to suffice to turning up the radio and ignoring it. Maybe a Gopro in the bay would reveal it.

Speaking of bushings, anyone hear good things about Powerflex USA? I am in the process of purchasing a few off their parts bin..

 
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