Hello, sorry for the delayed response. So how'd it tow? Reasonably well.
Hitch is a US type class 1 hitch, standard stuff, bolted up to the tow ring on the passenger side and to the rear substructure on the driver side, with two legs of steel also leading back to the spare tire well sheetmetal and through bolted. There are substantial backing plates on the inside of the trunk in all locations to spread the load. Class 1 is limited to 2000lbs tow, 200lbs on the tongue. This setup does not deflect in any way, and appears stronger than I expected it to be. Is it a Euro Bosal? No. But its not complete crap either.
I was limited to what I could get, and time constraints. I used a U-Haul motorcycle trailer. U-Haul gear is hugely overbuilt for the rental industry. 800lbs for a single empty bike trailer is absurd, and there was no way to change the location of the motorcycle on the trailer given the way the chock setup is for the front wheel. Most bike trailers are adjustable, so tongue weight can be optimized. But not this one. I'm quite sure I was way over the 200lbs class 1 limits once loaded.
Rear suspension squatted a bit, but no more than if I had a couple 250lbs dudes in the back seat. It didn't look bad there was maybe an inch more gap over the front tire than the rear. What I did find interesting is the rear bearings got quite warm running loaded like this. I know this as after 30 miles or so at highway speeds, I coasted to a stop, and checked things. The hubs were probably 120-130*F (I check equipment daily and have a "calibrated hand"
) Hotter than I expected. So it you tow heavy with a FWD vehicle, keep and eye on the rear bearings. Can't hurt. Mine are original with 300K on them.
Towing you definitely know the load is there. Acceleration isn't bad, and simply winding out each shift to 3500rpm or so does the job. Keep the turbo in the sweet spot and don't lug it on hills. Hell, don't lug it at all. I tried to maintain 2500-3000rpm when pulling grades. I have a taller 717 5th gear. If I was towing regularly, no way would I have done that mod. Gap between 4th and 5th is too much. Stock would probably be much better, but if towing at the limits, I'd consider an even lower 5th gear ratio ( if available) or even a lower ring&pinion. I was able to maintain 65mph on the flat ground and 60mph climbing hills, downshifting to 4th. Saw a max of 73mph on downhills and the trailer was rock stable behind me.
Stopping requires some care and planning so as not to over work the brakes. They did fine, but I go out of my way to be gentle on them as much as possible. Towing regularly, I'd have a top shelf brake controller and trailer brakes. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy in my tow rig and love it.
Lastly, if I was towing with a TDI regularly I'd have an EGT and water temp gauges. I know from pulling with big diesels that simply limiting how much "pedal" I apply, and keeping the rpms up will keep the EGT's in check. Setup with an EGT I likely could have pushed much harder.
I'm sorry I didn't take any pics, I was crunched for time. I have a pic of the loaded trailer, and can take one of the hitch if anyone is interested.
32mpg, trailer empty for half the trip.
Hope this helps someone!
RT